Rattle at 1750 RPM

[KYOTE]

I have a 2001 nissan pathfinder 4x4 that I purchased 2 months ago. Since i bought the car ive noticed a rattle only at 1750 rpm, and the sound stops once the engine is at operating temperature. After testing i found out that it doesnt rattle in park and neutral, only drive and reverse. i know that the heat sheilds on the exhaust have been known to cause this rattle, but people say it only happends above 20 and when the car is warmed up. like i said it happends for me even if i am not moving. my friends say it might be a diff issue but im just not shure. any feedback will be helpful, thanks

[atraudes]

I'd say check the heat shields before anything else; it's a really common issue and really easy to fix. The circumstances under which they rattle varies each time. Just wait until the car's cooled down, crawl underneath, and start tugging on things. I think the shields on the catalytic converters are the most prone. They're bolted onto the exhaust headers.

Welcome to the forum!

[KYOTE]

thank you for the advice. ive looked more and also believe it is the heat sheilds. i will take them off some time this week and post results. nico club is always the place for nissan info and help and i want to thank you for the quick reply

[atraudes]

Of course! Let us know how it turns out

[KYOTE]

I went ahead and took off all the heat shields on the exhaust tubes in between the cats and muffler. The rattle stopped, but I think there may still be a very quiet rattle. regardless, I consider it a success, and it only took a hour. Next is wheel bearings on my front wheels. I was wondering if anyone had papers from a repair manual on file that I could look at. Also, I'm curious if theirs a way to pack your bearings at home without a machine? if any one can help that would be great.

[atraudes]

Glad to hear the noise is gone!

Here's a tutorial on replacing the brake rotors which covers the outer bearings:

how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-fo ... 45492.html

You'll need to remove the seal on the back of the hub out to get to the inner bearings. Be aware that you will destroy that seal by doing so, so get a replacement (or two, they're kind of a bugger to get back in.

Here's a picture of the bearings and seals I bought for both wheels when I did mine the first time:



As far as packing bearings, I use a hand packer similar to the GearWrench 2775D. You need to stand on it on a warm day to get the grease through, but it does the trick. I hear you can pack them by hand by smushing the grease in with your fingers, but the packer is sooo much quicker and more efficient.

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2775D- ... B0002NYDYE

Let me know if you have questions about the process; I've done it a number of times now.

[KYOTE]

just did the front driver side wheel bearing. i had alot of trouble, and the whom whom whom sound is still occuring. i wasent able to put the ring back on cause it snapped so im trippin about that. gonna do the passenger side soon and hope that fixes the problem

[atraudes]

Is there any vibration with the whom, or is it just a noise? Does it speed up as you accelerate, or is it constant? And does it happen once every revolution of the wheel like a squeaky shopping cart?

The snap ring broke? I wouldn't let that go too long, especially if you drive through water. The snap ring keeps the drive shaft's seal pressed up against the back of the spindle. Without the snap ring, water can get in and ruin the grease behind the spindle. Not the end of the world, but getting to that area is a pain.

[KYOTE]

im so glad you asked, the whom whom whom starts allmost automaticlly and can be heard very well at 40 60 80 etc. it vibrates the car but its not noticible unless you are crusing at 10. it does happen every revolution and when i brake at high and low speeds its very bumpy. the front disc brakes and rotors where replaced at 94,000 miles (im coming up on 133k) and when i did the wheel bearing yesterday i checked it and i still have even pad wear and a smooth rotor. ive thought since i bought the car that the drum brakes in the back where bad. could this be my problem after all? also, do you have a link where i can buy a replacement snap ring for that front wheel bearing. thabks so much for all your help

[atraudes]

An unbalanced wheel is one possibility and the easiest to get checked out. I think pretty much any tire place will spin-balance them for you for free. The other possibility is an unbalanced driveshaft. A suspension shop would be able to take a look at that. If the drums or brakes in general were the problem I'd expect it to only vibrate while braking.

Is it worse if you put it in 4WD (Hi)?

Looks like you can buy snap ring assortment sets; hopefully one would fit:

http://www.amazon.com/300-Piece-Snap-Ri ... ref=sr_1_1

By the way, you inspired me to get off my butt and finally write the howto on front wheel bearings that I've been planning for a while:

front-wheel-bearings-howto-t595528.html

Those pictures were taken...a while ago

[KYOTE]

It doesnt get worse in 4 wheel so that might help. im gonna get them balanced hopefully before work tomarrow but for shure tomarrow. i just checked my drive shaft and didnt see any bends or signs of worping so hopefully this will do the trick

[KYOTE]

Hey. Sorry for the long delay but i have news. i went to the shop to get my tires balanced, and the guy at the shop said my tires where cupped and i needed a alignment and time for them to wear evenly. I then went to brakes plus for a alignment, and they told me i need a adjustable camber bolt (or something close to that) to be able to adjust a certain aspect of the alignment. i was wondering if you knew what that was and if its actually necessary. Besides that, my pathfinder has also started having electrical issues. It started when my headlights shut off and the o/d light, air bag, and i think battery light turned on. after 30 seconds of driving, the headlights turned back on and everything was ok. Then this morning i started the car to see the A/T oil temp, Brake, and battery light where on. After pressing the gas 2 or 3 times, the lights turned off and it was fine. when i got to my friends house, i stopped and started it again to see what would happen, and the 3 dash lights were back on. i pressed the gas again and sure enough the lights where off again. Then the radio turned on and off. Air bag light was on again. ABS and O/D flash on and off randomly as well. all of these problems turn on and off randomly while i'm driving and went away the last time i drove, and when i started the car a second time, it was a normal clean start. If you have any idea what this, and have any advice, that would be great because i need my car for work,thanks

[atraudes]

Looks like camber isn't adjustable by default, but you can buy and install bolts that allow you to:

post5984234.html
post6600368.html

As far as the electrical problems...



Maybe an exorcism is in order?

Is it throwing any codes? Maybe take a look at the fuse boxes and see if there's anything funky going on there with the wiring.

[KYOTE]

Hey atraudes, Its been awhile and i just wanted to update you on my results. I went ahead and got camber bolts and redid the alignment. The cupped tires makes it impossible to get the alignment correct so thats still iffy. The electrical problems ended up being caused by the main battery connection to the fuse/relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay. The ground wire was eaten away and was touching the power line causing it to melt the plastic. 10 mins and 3 pieces of shrink tubing later the car started and hasn't had a problem since. Now that thats all fixed, I've ran across another problem that i can't quite put a cause to. It happens whenever i hit a bump (including tar lines in the road). The car makes a CLUNK sound every time and the steering jerks to whatever side i'm turning. It makes the ride feel unstable and the sound was not occurring when i first bought the car in october of last year. My assumptions are that it could be the ball joints considering they have a part in cupped tires and are a part of the steering linkage. The only other thing i can think of at this moment is that it could be the cupped tires getting worse and when i hit a bump they jerk the wheel do to the tires never being truly balanced. Any help on how to check ball joints, or other ideas on what it could be would be great, thanks.

[rgk]

You know those heat shields you removed from the top of your exhaust system? I recommend putting them back to avoid damage to any sensitive parts in their vicinity. Most likely you will just have to replace the clamps that hold them in place.

In regards to your suspension, you will need to check your tie rod ends, stabilizer bar links, and ball joints. You can pick up a Haynes manual that has detailed photos of where everything is located, what it looks like, and what it's called.

You'll have to raise your vehicle and put it down onto a jack stand. Place the stand under the control arm to take the pressure off of the front suspension, then remove the wheel. You should then be able to wiggle parts and tell if they're loose. Inspect them visually as well.

Tie rod ends and stabilizer bar links should not be loose. The rubber around ball joints should not be cracked or leaking grease.



Although the image above displays a front-wheel drive suspension, four-wheel drive vehicles have roughly the same front suspension components.

[atraudes]

Great to hear you got the electrical gremlins purged!

I'm going to disagree on the heat shields. I've read a few discussions here and the general consensus is that there's no problem with removing them, so it comes down to personal preference and comfort. Agreed that you will want to make sure there aren't any wires or anything running to close to the exhaust though

post6438459.html
post6588365.html

If you end up getting new ball joints (an excellent idea one way or the other), I recommend Proforged.

[rgk]

[KYOTE]

I love the feed back. I also have to agree with atraudes on the exhaust. I have seen people take off cat covers and still been fine. I only removed the heat shields from the end of the cats to the start of the muffler so I don't think i'm harming much. It's been over 3000 miles now and I have never smelt a burning wire. About the ball joints, I went ahead and got this kit from a1 auto http://www.1aauto.com/suspension-kit-fr ... aQodFl4ALw

It comes with everything i need plus control arms and tie rods which could very well be part of the problem. I know the previous owner was a oil only guy and he had the car since 92k. i'm now at 137k so its time for a few services as well. I bought all the supplies for a diff, tyranny, and transfer case service and will be doing that this weekend. I also got spark plugs and boots, which is where I have a question. Iv'e been reading and have found out that the 2001.5 has a different type of spark plug set up then the 2001, I bought boots for a 2001 and am just wondering if ill be okay to replace my plugs and boots, or if there is a different type of boot that I need to buy. I know you (atraudes) also have a 2001.5 so I was wondering if you had a answer/ link to where I can buy the boots (if needed). On top of all that, I also got a fuel filter cause the old one is rusted out and iv'e been having a slightly low idle while in drive (when i'm in park it stays at 750) and I hope this can fix the problem. After all these services, I should be up to date on the maintenance schedule as well ( I failed to mention that the previous owner did replace the timing belt at 92k) I'll let you know how everything goes, and hopefully after this i'll be problem free for awhile.

[atraudes]

Are you sure you have a 2001? The 2001+ use coils that are mounted directly onto the spark plug instead of a distributor and wires. The timing belt was also replaced with a metal chain, so they don't need to be replaced regularly.

The 01.5's and up have a slightly revised coil pack, but I think they even look the same.

Good call on the fuel filter!

[KYOTE]

My manufacture date is 5/01 and I saw this in the general info page:
General model questions:
Q: How do I determine whether I have a 2001.0 or 2001.5 model year Pathfinder?
A: Check the manufacturing date of your Pathfinder on the driver door jamb. Dates 01/01/2000-08/31/2000 are 2001.0 model years; 09/01/2000-06/03/2001 are 2001.5 model years.

I'm almost at the end of the production year, so i'm sure I have a 2001.5. With the slightly revised coil pack, it is seemed to help with one of the most common trouble codes seen on the 2001 (P1320) and i'm not sure if this means I should have bought different boots or not. The coils i got look like they do mount right on to the spark plug so I think i'm good to go. I only have 2 maintenance sheets from the previous owner and after reading I found out that he did not replace a timing belt (probably cause theres a chain, not a belt) and you're right it shouldn't need replacing. I realize my old link doesnt work so heres another try and posting that http://www.1aauto.com/suspension-kit-fr ... aQodFl4ALw

I know atraudes did a rear control arm how to, but i have yet to find a howto on how to replace the front lower control arms and have heard you need a press to fit on the new bushings. I looked under the car and at the control arm and don't see the difficulty or need for a press to get on the new bushings. I was wondering what your feedback was on that as well.

[asnorton44]

The 2001 coils should be grey and cylinder 1 the plug faces up where as the revised coils should be black and 1-6 are all the same.

[KYOTE]

That tells me that I got the wrong kind, I have black coils, but coil # 1 Is bigger and different from the rest

[asnorton44]

That tells me that I got the wrong kind, I have black coils, but coil # 1 Is bigger and different from the rest

I did the same when I replaced mine...see if you can send them back.

Here is a full set on Ebay for $150:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-F ... 1230985501

[atraudes]

The 2001 coils should be grey and cylinder 1 the plug faces up where as the revised coils should be black and 1-6 are all the same.

I'm confused now. I have a manufacture date of 11/00 and the gray packs with the one-off connector. KYOTE has a later production date and black coils. Shouldn't ours be the same??

@KYOTE: why are you replacing the coil packs? It's not a preventative maintenance item so you should only need to replace them if they're giving you issues. The spark plugs only need to be replaced at 100k, so that should be the only thing you need to replace regularly. Also, did you buy the NGK PLFR5A-11 spark plugs? It's the only plug that's guaranteed to work properly. Others here have had problems with different brands and models.

[KYOTE]

atraudes: asnorton44 is wrong. i just finshed replacing the spark plugs and boots. I did not replace the coil packs, i just sprayed them with sensor cleaner to ensure a good connection. anyhow, the coil packs are the same as 2001 with #1 being face up and wires are black. btw the link asnorton44 left also showed black boots and 1 being face up as well. i got bosch plugs before i saw the info on ngk so we will have to see how those go. i got the tyranny, transfer case, and both diffs fliud changed as well today so thats great. lastly, i cleaned the maf, tps, and did a bottle of c foam through the throttle body to try and help with my low idle issue with no luck. i also had my "service engine soon" light come on and was wondering if you had any ideas on what it could be triggered from, knowing that there is no misfire and it has to be from something i did while taking apart and reassembling the air box. any ideas would be helpful, but im going to get the light checked tomarrow to. ill post what the problem ends up being, and ill be posting a front lower control arm rereplacement how to sometime this week. thanks for all the advice guys

[$$$]

I have the EXACT same thing!!! Jus bought the suv still trying to get it the way i want it....so far i've notice that 1750rpm rattle and i need front wheel bearings too. Funny we have like identical pathfinders lol

[KYOTE]

Hey $$$ that is a funny coincidence considering its the same problems, at the same time, with the same cars. I have actually ruled out the wheel bearings with cupped tires due to the fact that the wheel bearings were repacked not to long ago and the whomp whomp whomp sound i hear is muffled when i drive on snow hence, its a tire issue. An update on the check engine light, it ended up being the MAF from when i ran the car without it plugged in. I had it turned off by o'reilly and the light has stayed off. I got the ball joints and control arms with bushings replaced and still have a clunking sound happening so im going to get inner and outter tie rods replaced and rack and pinion re greased due to the fact that they are leaking. With all that aside, my electrical issues are back. It started when i was refilling the transmission fluid and the A/T oil temp, Air bag, and O/D light all started flashing again. I went back to the main battery wire going to the fuse/relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay to see that the wires were starting to turn black and burning!! I cleaned them off thoroughly and resealed them hoping it would be the fix. I also saw that the yellow wire running off the main battery connection had a 25 fuse in it. I'm almost sure theres supposed to be a 20 amp fuse there so i switched that out as well. Since then i have not had any lights show up on the dash, rather, ive had 2 instances where parts of the dash would not light up at all. One time the whole right side of the dash (rpm gauge and coolant temp) wouldn't light up for about 1 min, then it turned on and hasn't acted up since. The second time was today where twice the mileage reader wasn't lighting up until a min of driving, then of course, it turned back on. I checked the wires to still see them burning. While nothing is shutting down, i'm worried i have a huge electrical issue on my hands. I can't find anyone else on nico reporting this problem so i feel like its not common. My guesses are that there is possibly a wire rub somewhere, a short in the system, the fuse size is still wrong, or a ECU issue. Either way, i feel like if i let it keep running like this, ill have a even bigger problem on my hands. I want let everyone know that when i say main battery connection, i'm talking about the set of wires that run to the right fuse/relay box, not the main battery connection on the battery, id love to post some pics but sadly i don't know how to do that. If anyone has any advice on the issue or wants to tell me how i can post some pics that would be fantastic, thanks.

[$$$]

Easy fix for me...removed heat shield noise gone. As for wheel bearings didn't need to do them as we thought...it seems like u have alot small problems accumulating with your pathfinder knock on wood best of luck

[KYOTE]

UPDATE ON THE HELL OF ELECTRICAL ISSUES:
I found out the exact lights that are showing up on the dash. I have/had the A/T oil temp, BRAKE, and Battery light showing up. Along with random moments where the O/D off and air bag light flash. The car died at a intersection and had to be pushed home. I found out that the set A/T oil temp, Battery, And BRAKE light are a indication of alternator failure. With this in mind i checked the voltage on the battery to see 7V... not a good start. Had battery checked at oriley to find that its still a good battery, so i put it back in the car and ran more tests. Ground reading on alternator is .01 so good there. Battery voltage while running car was really low (12.26) so i started messing around with the fuse link box. I found out that the wire running off the main battery connection was jerry rigged to a switch in the car and attached to a fuse (I still don't know what it was powering) I tore off all the wires to the switch and main battery connection and the engine instantly sounded better with a reading of 14.2 to 14.5 while running which is good. since removing these wires, i have yet to have a electrical issue like before. no lights turning off on the dash or radio not working, or any warning lights appearing. Although the battery seems to be reacting to something. Like i said it runs at a good voltage, but when i turn off the car it is as high as 13.2V. It slowly goes down from 13.2 back to 12.76 but it takes a night of sitting and will always go up when i start and run the car again. The battery is also leaking acid slightly. So, its running at a good voltage of 14.4 on avg, the alternator has a solid ground, and I got rid of a main electrical issue. Yet the battery is overcharged after use. Answers? 0