Q45 sun visor repair
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:39 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
Q45 sun visor repair
just purchased 2 new sun visors from ebay, off a 94 but assume they'll fit a 90. has anyone ever done a swap???? can't find a diagram in the service manual. all tips or instuctions would be great!!! thanks all, jeff
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gloucester Q
- Posts: 258
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- Car: 90 Q
- Location: Gloucester MA
i did this not too long ago because the vanity lights in the passenger visor didn't work. from memory: there are 2 conns in the driver's side because one is power to the light, and it is daisy chained to the passenger side, so the second one goes out to the passenger side. it's actually diagramed in the service manual i think. the wires for the vanity light route through a hole in the pivot arm. if there's going to be any cutting or splicing it will be because you need to get the wires pulled out of the existing visor through this tiny hole, and your options will be to unpin the wires from their connectors, or cut them and pull them out.installation is just the opposite, run the wires through the hole in the pivot arm, re-pin or reconnect the wires to the conn, fasten the visor, and you're all set. randy
Q45 sun visor repair (not replacement)
The thread above was titled a 'sun visor repair'; but it was really a replacement thread.
How can I REPAIR (not replace) both sun visors on my 1990 Infiniti Q45 (125K miles)?
I've already REPLACED both visors (over the years); yet, both are broken again; in the same exact spot!
The visors' soft aluminum hollow post has an extremely strong steel spring held on by the tiniest of margins (about 2 or 3 mm) with a sharp spring steel clip. Over time, the steel clip simply slips off, gauging out the soft hollow aluminum post, causing the visors to pop down in front of my face while driving (sometimes just by going over a bump in the road)! The aluminum post has no meat left on it for the steel clip teeth to sink into.
I think this is one of the very few engineering flaws in the 1990 Infiniti Q45; but, judging from a quick search on Google, Yahoo, & Nico, not many people seem to have the problem I do (maybe I'm not gentle enough on the visor release button, but, it's too late if that's the case).
I'm tired of shelling out the dough for replacement visors. Does anyone have a REPAIR IDEA?Do you know of I can enlargen that hollow visor post? Or, can I get a smaller visor spring clip to hold?Has anyone any success REPAIRING the Infiniti Q45 sun visors?
Here is a photo which shows, I hope, the situation.
How can I REPAIR (not replace) both sun visors on my 1990 Infiniti Q45 (125K miles)?
I've already REPLACED both visors (over the years); yet, both are broken again; in the same exact spot!
The visors' soft aluminum hollow post has an extremely strong steel spring held on by the tiniest of margins (about 2 or 3 mm) with a sharp spring steel clip. Over time, the steel clip simply slips off, gauging out the soft hollow aluminum post, causing the visors to pop down in front of my face while driving (sometimes just by going over a bump in the road)! The aluminum post has no meat left on it for the steel clip teeth to sink into.
I think this is one of the very few engineering flaws in the 1990 Infiniti Q45; but, judging from a quick search on Google, Yahoo, & Nico, not many people seem to have the problem I do (maybe I'm not gentle enough on the visor release button, but, it's too late if that's the case).
I'm tired of shelling out the dough for replacement visors. Does anyone have a REPAIR IDEA?Do you know of I can enlargen that hollow visor post? Or, can I get a smaller visor spring clip to hold?Has anyone any success REPAIRING the Infiniti Q45 sun visors?
Here is a photo which shows, I hope, the situation.
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:39 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
i have the new visors, but have not installed them yet. how hard is it?????? big job????? when i rip everything apart, i'll look at what you described, since the passenger side is doing exactly what you described. driver side has broken vanity light. will replace both. i'll see if anything can be rigged up to improve situation. get back to me on the removal and install you did. thanks
> I have the new visors, but have not> installed them yet. how hard is > it? Is it a big job? ...> ... the passenger side is doing > exactly what you described ... > I'll see if anything can be rigged up> to improve the situation. > Please get back to me on> the removal and install you did.
Easy job. Twenty minutes if you are efficient; more if you're slow like I am.
Since I did the task a while ago (I just never put the sun visor back) I'll write up what I remember and let others correct where I forget steps.
If I remember correctly, the hardest part of the Q45 sun-visor R&R was disconnecting the Infiniti sun-visor electrical connector (see my hint below). The second-hardest part (for me) was just building up the courage to temporarily rip out my interior linings and mouldings. Luckily, they all went right back where they came from as easily as they came out.
If you have the 1990 Infiniti Q45 factory shop manual, refer to the (rather meager) drawings on page BF-26 and on page BF-27. See also BF-31 which shows the drip molding and center pillar cover particulars; and see BF-32 which shows the sash molding.
Nowhere in the manual did I find the sun visor R&R procedure described so here is mine (experts are advised to correct where I make mistakes):
Disclaimer: This may or may not be the correct factory process):
a) Inside the Q45, pop off the top part of the B pillar plastic cover (as this center pillar cover is clipped at the bottom as shown in the FSM drawing on page BF-31).
b) Pull off the rubberized cloth gasket inside molding around the window as shown in FSM BF-31 or BF-32. (I'm not sure if it's the sash or the drip molding; but it's the rubbery cloth-covered stuff on the inside, whatever it's called by the factory).
c) Pop off just the A pillar plastic cover on the driver side (refer to BF-22 for the phantom diagram of the location of the clips holding side and floor trim components).
d) Remove the rear-view mirror (aka, the "room mirror") by popping off the rectangular cover held on with 4 pawls and by unscrewing two screws (as shown in the diagram in BF-27).
e) Pop off the escutcheon over the driver-side sun visor attachment point (aka 'pawl'); and unscrew the three phillips-head attachment screws holding the driver side sun visor to the the roof.
Note: You do NOT need to remove other components such as the center roof-line lighting assembly (aka the "sun roof conrol switch assembly"). As far as I know, R&R of the passenger-side sun visor assembly is similar.
Hint: It's hard to disconnect the sun-visor electrical connector (you need teeny tiny thin fingers); so it may be best to simply shove a 1/8 flat-head screwdriver parallel to the sun visor wiring above the roof line in order to to depress the connector latch while pulling on the electrical connector.
Pleeeeeaaaaaassssseeee when you are done removing the sun visor assembly, take a look at how one would REPAIR that soft aluminum post by adding girth to it so that the strong spring & steel clip have some meat to bite into again. It's such a waste to shell out 200 bucks for this kind of engineering flaw (IMHO).
Alora Duncan
Easy job. Twenty minutes if you are efficient; more if you're slow like I am.
Since I did the task a while ago (I just never put the sun visor back) I'll write up what I remember and let others correct where I forget steps.
If I remember correctly, the hardest part of the Q45 sun-visor R&R was disconnecting the Infiniti sun-visor electrical connector (see my hint below). The second-hardest part (for me) was just building up the courage to temporarily rip out my interior linings and mouldings. Luckily, they all went right back where they came from as easily as they came out.
If you have the 1990 Infiniti Q45 factory shop manual, refer to the (rather meager) drawings on page BF-26 and on page BF-27. See also BF-31 which shows the drip molding and center pillar cover particulars; and see BF-32 which shows the sash molding.
Nowhere in the manual did I find the sun visor R&R procedure described so here is mine (experts are advised to correct where I make mistakes):
Disclaimer: This may or may not be the correct factory process):
a) Inside the Q45, pop off the top part of the B pillar plastic cover (as this center pillar cover is clipped at the bottom as shown in the FSM drawing on page BF-31).
b) Pull off the rubberized cloth gasket inside molding around the window as shown in FSM BF-31 or BF-32. (I'm not sure if it's the sash or the drip molding; but it's the rubbery cloth-covered stuff on the inside, whatever it's called by the factory).
c) Pop off just the A pillar plastic cover on the driver side (refer to BF-22 for the phantom diagram of the location of the clips holding side and floor trim components).
d) Remove the rear-view mirror (aka, the "room mirror") by popping off the rectangular cover held on with 4 pawls and by unscrewing two screws (as shown in the diagram in BF-27).
e) Pop off the escutcheon over the driver-side sun visor attachment point (aka 'pawl'); and unscrew the three phillips-head attachment screws holding the driver side sun visor to the the roof.
Note: You do NOT need to remove other components such as the center roof-line lighting assembly (aka the "sun roof conrol switch assembly"). As far as I know, R&R of the passenger-side sun visor assembly is similar.
Hint: It's hard to disconnect the sun-visor electrical connector (you need teeny tiny thin fingers); so it may be best to simply shove a 1/8 flat-head screwdriver parallel to the sun visor wiring above the roof line in order to to depress the connector latch while pulling on the electrical connector.
Pleeeeeaaaaaassssseeee when you are done removing the sun visor assembly, take a look at how one would REPAIR that soft aluminum post by adding girth to it so that the strong spring & steel clip have some meat to bite into again. It's such a waste to shell out 200 bucks for this kind of engineering flaw (IMHO).
Alora Duncan
Ooooops. Wrong picture. One reason it may take me longer than you guys to do a R&R job is I bake cookies and sip wine while reading the FSM before, during, and after each removal or replacement step.
Here should be the CORRECT picture showing the major components to the 1990 Infiniti Q45 driver side sun visor assembly.
Here should be the CORRECT picture showing the major components to the 1990 Infiniti Q45 driver side sun visor assembly.
Another reason I take much longer than you guys to do a repair is I snap photos of every step of the way so that I can reassemble all the pieces I took apart 
Here is the BEFORE picture of what seems to happen to me every two or three years or so as the strong steel spring & steel spring-steel clip strip off the meat on the soft aluminum post holding the sun visors to the roof.
PLEASE tell me how I can REPAIR this aluminum post (w/o having to yet again replace the entire sun visor assembly at about 200 bucks a pop)!
Alora
Here is the BEFORE picture of what seems to happen to me every two or three years or so as the strong steel spring & steel spring-steel clip strip off the meat on the soft aluminum post holding the sun visors to the roof.
PLEASE tell me how I can REPAIR this aluminum post (w/o having to yet again replace the entire sun visor assembly at about 200 bucks a pop)!
Alora
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Hmmm..does that cure the free lateral swinging that I experience going around corners when the visors are deployed?Q45tech wrote:We thread the post with tap and die set and use a metal nut.....a $110 job for one add $50 for both.
Body vibrations from tires and wheels and rough use wear the threads.I kid my female riders that they need to put up a $300 deposit before fixing their makeup.
If so, please post details!
> thread the post with tap and die > set and use a metal nut ...
Wow. You must be good. There isn't much room on that stubby soft aluminum post for more than a couple of threads; and that half-inch long strong steel spring is, well, it's a half inch long and very strong.
I wonder if I can even FIT a nut on the aluminum post with that long spring. I wonder if there's even enough room.
One option, I guess, might be to either shorten the spring (but cutting) or to use a half-height nut (I guess only a few threads need to bite well).
Another option might be to lengthen the aluminum post somehow. Do you find that only a few threads hold? Do you use a 1/8th. inch height nut or larger? (A quater-inch nut seems likely not to fix fully on the stubby post.)
Another option I may have is to put some gas-tank repair gunk or other strong material on the tip of the stubby post to 'repair' the stripped off portion so that the steel clip has a chance to bit into something of girth. But, what material would stay on that small aluminum post without stripping from the tension of that very strong steel spring (it's like a mini coil spring, it's so strong).
I suspect the superb strength of that mini coil spring (see the photos above) is the answer to maxnix' question (but I'm just guessing). Maybe Maxnix's spring is more flaccid than normal; thereby lessening the tension pressing the visor to the roof; thereby perhaps allowing that lateral swinging that Maxnix is experiencing.
Just like in a pair of scissors, if you loosen the tension of the center screw, the blades will swing laterally to the extent that the screw prevents full motion laterally.
Another option, much simpler in concept, is to reassemble the spring on the stubby post and then, instead of holding it all together with the spring clip (or a half-height nut), perhaps I can drivce a cotter pin (or other pin) thru the center of the shaft, at the end (like tongue jewelry) to anchor it all together.
The otherwise good pair of visors cost $469.53 to replace ($217.48 for the passenger side, $216.27 for the driver side, add San Francisco taxes for the remainder), so it's worth the gamble.
I do so very much enjoy the elegance of Q45tech's threaded suggestion; I just wonder how good with my hands I'd have to be to pull it off successfully.
That stubby stripped aluminum post is mighty short. It's just about the exact length of the strong steel spring. That doesn't leave much (if any) room for the threads or for the nut. But, I'll try what I can after (hopefully) getting more advice from others who have actually reparied a Q45 sun visor or two.
Alora Duncan
Wow. You must be good. There isn't much room on that stubby soft aluminum post for more than a couple of threads; and that half-inch long strong steel spring is, well, it's a half inch long and very strong.
I wonder if I can even FIT a nut on the aluminum post with that long spring. I wonder if there's even enough room.
One option, I guess, might be to either shorten the spring (but cutting) or to use a half-height nut (I guess only a few threads need to bite well).
Another option might be to lengthen the aluminum post somehow. Do you find that only a few threads hold? Do you use a 1/8th. inch height nut or larger? (A quater-inch nut seems likely not to fix fully on the stubby post.)
Another option I may have is to put some gas-tank repair gunk or other strong material on the tip of the stubby post to 'repair' the stripped off portion so that the steel clip has a chance to bit into something of girth. But, what material would stay on that small aluminum post without stripping from the tension of that very strong steel spring (it's like a mini coil spring, it's so strong).
I suspect the superb strength of that mini coil spring (see the photos above) is the answer to maxnix' question (but I'm just guessing). Maybe Maxnix's spring is more flaccid than normal; thereby lessening the tension pressing the visor to the roof; thereby perhaps allowing that lateral swinging that Maxnix is experiencing.
Just like in a pair of scissors, if you loosen the tension of the center screw, the blades will swing laterally to the extent that the screw prevents full motion laterally.
Another option, much simpler in concept, is to reassemble the spring on the stubby post and then, instead of holding it all together with the spring clip (or a half-height nut), perhaps I can drivce a cotter pin (or other pin) thru the center of the shaft, at the end (like tongue jewelry) to anchor it all together.
The otherwise good pair of visors cost $469.53 to replace ($217.48 for the passenger side, $216.27 for the driver side, add San Francisco taxes for the remainder), so it's worth the gamble.
I do so very much enjoy the elegance of Q45tech's threaded suggestion; I just wonder how good with my hands I'd have to be to pull it off successfully.
That stubby stripped aluminum post is mighty short. It's just about the exact length of the strong steel spring. That doesn't leave much (if any) room for the threads or for the nut. But, I'll try what I can after (hopefully) getting more advice from others who have actually reparied a Q45 sun visor or two.
Alora Duncan
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natsoundup
- Posts: 669
- Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 4:27 am
boy, I am suprised to hear that this problem still exists..... some 10-11 years ago, both of my visors failed on the 90... they were fixed by the dealer under warranty.....there hasn't been a problem since.... I wonder if the dealer had a special upgrade....
...any tsb's on this? something doesn't seem right here..... if mine failed under warranty...it would only stand to reason that they would have failed again, unless something else was done....
reminds me of the valve covers....they were resealed under warranty....I didn't even know they were leaking..... they are still fine 10-11 years later....
Of course with the 94..it's another story....the valve cover gaskets are leaking on it...
oh well...
...any tsb's on this? something doesn't seem right here..... if mine failed under warranty...it would only stand to reason that they would have failed again, unless something else was done....
reminds me of the valve covers....they were resealed under warranty....I didn't even know they were leaking..... they are still fine 10-11 years later....
Of course with the 94..it's another story....the valve cover gaskets are leaking on it...
oh well...
Help me! I would LOVE to know if there are any technical service bulletins on this problem; especially as I am personally certain this is a design flaw (your opinion may vary).
Yes, I know I can shell out more money for TSBs at:http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infinitibut, I am low on dough and I don't even know if there is a TSB on the Infiniti Q45 sun visor problem.
Recently I obtained a login to http://www.consumerreports.org just so I can look up pasta makers; and, wouldn't you know it, guess what the one kitchen appliance that Consumer Reports has (apparently) never studied? Yup. Pasta makers.
My point is that it would be nice to just know if there is a TSB on this Q45 sun-visor problem before going to the trouble of obtaining the text of the TSB itself.
Thank you for any help (I need all I can get),Alora
Yes, I know I can shell out more money for TSBs at:http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infinitibut, I am low on dough and I don't even know if there is a TSB on the Infiniti Q45 sun visor problem.
Recently I obtained a login to http://www.consumerreports.org just so I can look up pasta makers; and, wouldn't you know it, guess what the one kitchen appliance that Consumer Reports has (apparently) never studied? Yup. Pasta makers.
My point is that it would be nice to just know if there is a TSB on this Q45 sun-visor problem before going to the trouble of obtaining the text of the TSB itself.
Thank you for any help (I need all I can get),Alora
I just did a quick search for TSBs on the Internet.
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/27/90270202.htmlapparently reports item number 82 as:TSB# 94006 JAN 94 Sunvisor Vanity Mirror - Repairs
Also, item number 181 is reported as:TSB# 90013 APR 90 Vanity Mirror Light - Operation Logic Changed
Since each specifically mention "mirror", I doubt they cover the faulty visor post material (that stubby post should be steel, not aluminum, with that strong coil spring and only two grooves at the top).
However, those two TSBs might just suggest a better R&R procedure than what I proposed above & (better yet), those TSBs may supply cautions regarding re-assembly with that strong spring sandwiched between the roof-line washer (see photo) and the steel clip biting into the soft aluminum grooves.
Do those two TSBs offer us any tidbits?Alora
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/27/90270202.htmlapparently reports item number 82 as:TSB# 94006 JAN 94 Sunvisor Vanity Mirror - Repairs
Also, item number 181 is reported as:TSB# 90013 APR 90 Vanity Mirror Light - Operation Logic Changed
Since each specifically mention "mirror", I doubt they cover the faulty visor post material (that stubby post should be steel, not aluminum, with that strong coil spring and only two grooves at the top).
However, those two TSBs might just suggest a better R&R procedure than what I proposed above & (better yet), those TSBs may supply cautions regarding re-assembly with that strong spring sandwiched between the roof-line washer (see photo) and the steel clip biting into the soft aluminum grooves.
Do those two TSBs offer us any tidbits?Alora
I sent Brian an email earlier today for any tidbits in the TSBs.
Meanwhile ... Does anyone have a suggestion for the size & thread of the die (and subsequent nut height) to employ to thread the Q45 sunvisor aluminum post?
As can be seen from the attached photo, the sunvisor post at its widest girth is 0.320 (i.e., 320 thousands) of an inch; while at the worst mangled portion near the end, the post tapers down to 0.282 inch in diameter due to scuffing by the steel spring clamp teeth (see photo).
Tapping internal threads and inserting a special thin-headed hollow bolt to compress the sunvisor coil spring is one possibility; but wires take up almost all the room inside the shaft so internal threads & hollow bolts will have to remain an option of last resort.
For external threads, I'm guessing the die I should purchase would be about 5/16th of an inch at, say, about 18 threads per inch perhaps. What do you think? The corresponding nut on the shaft would also be 5/16 x 18 but the nut might also have to be about 1/8th inch in height instead of 1/4 inch or so due to the short shaft length and the long sunvisor coil spring to be compressed.
Does 5/16 x 18 sound like the correct repair plan?
Meanwhile ... Does anyone have a suggestion for the size & thread of the die (and subsequent nut height) to employ to thread the Q45 sunvisor aluminum post?
As can be seen from the attached photo, the sunvisor post at its widest girth is 0.320 (i.e., 320 thousands) of an inch; while at the worst mangled portion near the end, the post tapers down to 0.282 inch in diameter due to scuffing by the steel spring clamp teeth (see photo).
Tapping internal threads and inserting a special thin-headed hollow bolt to compress the sunvisor coil spring is one possibility; but wires take up almost all the room inside the shaft so internal threads & hollow bolts will have to remain an option of last resort.
For external threads, I'm guessing the die I should purchase would be about 5/16th of an inch at, say, about 18 threads per inch perhaps. What do you think? The corresponding nut on the shaft would also be 5/16 x 18 but the nut might also have to be about 1/8th inch in height instead of 1/4 inch or so due to the short shaft length and the long sunvisor coil spring to be compressed.
Does 5/16 x 18 sound like the correct repair plan?
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Q451990
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Woo hoo! I just remembered how I fixed mine! Took me a while of looking at the picture, but all I could remember was using a belt sander!
What I did was grind down the plastic collar area that holds the arm in place (marked with yellow arrow) with a belt sander in effect making the metal portion longer and putting less pressure on the retainer by making the spring "longer" and less loaded. This worked well for me and the repair has held up for at least three years. I think I took about 20% off of the collar. I guess this is why I remember soldering the wire back... you'll have to cut off the conector and then re-attach it to get the plastic collar off of the arm.
Heath
What I did was grind down the plastic collar area that holds the arm in place (marked with yellow arrow) with a belt sander in effect making the metal portion longer and putting less pressure on the retainer by making the spring "longer" and less loaded. This worked well for me and the repair has held up for at least three years. I think I took about 20% off of the collar. I guess this is why I remember soldering the wire back... you'll have to cut off the conector and then re-attach it to get the plastic collar off of the arm.
Heath
> I would keep it metric ...
OK. So be it. For hours on end, I searched the whole Internet for tap & die tutorials and (after reading all I could bear), I concluded I should probably simply purchase BOTH a metric and American set (a good tool is never wasted).
So, this morning I went Christmas shopping for my Q and picked up two complete sets as an early Xmas present for my '90 Q45.
Given that the defective Q45 sunvisor post is .320 inch in outside diameter (I haven't a clue about the inside diameter):
.320 inch x 25.4 mm ---------- = 8.128 mm OD inch
The metric tap & die set has two 8mm die: 8 x 1.25 mm & 8 x 1.0 mm
I don't yet have the half-height nut for the mate; but, I'm guessing (since the post is aluminum) the larger threads to be better so how does 8 by 1.0 mm sound to you?
OK. So be it. For hours on end, I searched the whole Internet for tap & die tutorials and (after reading all I could bear), I concluded I should probably simply purchase BOTH a metric and American set (a good tool is never wasted).
So, this morning I went Christmas shopping for my Q and picked up two complete sets as an early Xmas present for my '90 Q45.
Given that the defective Q45 sunvisor post is .320 inch in outside diameter (I haven't a clue about the inside diameter):
.320 inch x 25.4 mm ---------- = 8.128 mm OD inch
The metric tap & die set has two 8mm die: 8 x 1.25 mm & 8 x 1.0 mm
I don't yet have the half-height nut for the mate; but, I'm guessing (since the post is aluminum) the larger threads to be better so how does 8 by 1.0 mm sound to you?
What I did was grind down the plastic collar area that holds the arm in place ... in effect making the metal portion longer & putting less pressure on the retainer by making the spring "longer" & less loaded ... I think I took about 20% off of the collar.
Filing down the plastic landing post is a most excellent suggestion!
I never even thought of that!Thanks!
I suspect, after careful measuring, I can (somehow) remove 1/8th. inch off that plastic landing post (perhaps as much as 1/4 inch if I were really good).
I'm not sure how to remove the plastic (I certainly don't have a belt sander handy); but I have files and kitchen & Exacto knives that might work. I don't mind buying a hand tool if it's needed (generally a good hand tool never goes to waste, although I still have torx & reed screwdrivers I don't even remember why I bought them, but probably for a fix I did once ... I think it was a headlight adjustment).
In summary, the Infiniti Q45 sunvisor repair procedure seems to be:
- Remove sunvisor assembly from the Q45 (see previous details).
- Cut wires at two different places (to prevent shorts later).
- Add 8mm x 1.25 threads to aluminum sunvisor post (1/4 inch long if possible).
- Remove steel clip & replace with 1/8th tall 8 x 1.25 mm steel nut.
- File plastic sunvisor coil spring landing post down by 1/8th to 1/4 inch (if possible).
- Gently twist the nut on the shaft until spring is compressed fully (if possible).
- Reinstall Q45 sunvisor (reverse aforementioned removal procedure).
Please correct any mistakes I made above, Alora
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Q451990
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I think your description is the ultimate fix. If I'm not mistaken, my sunvisors on "Q1" were replaced under warranty - or at least one of them. So I may have had the updated design. I think a file will work fine. The belt sander was just handy and easy to use...
In my case just removing some of the plastic was all that was necessary, the spring clip went back on fine after that. The combination of threading post and shortening the plastic collar should be the best of both worlds...
Heath
In my case just removing some of the plastic was all that was necessary, the spring clip went back on fine after that. The combination of threading post and shortening the plastic collar should be the best of both worlds...
Heath
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Q451990
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Yes... but the update was in 1990, so it sounds like even the updated design has had failures.
The update for the retaining nut was for all cars produced after VIN JNKNG01C*LM010172 on 3/4/1990. They also added a new detent on the end of the arm that holds the visor to keep it from sliding side to side on 10/17/1989 for VINS after JNKNG01C*LM001574.
This is in TSB ITB90-036 released on 11/29/1990. The TSB also mentions that they did not change the part number with the updates but that all parts inventory would be of the new design.
Heath
The update for the retaining nut was for all cars produced after VIN JNKNG01C*LM010172 on 3/4/1990. They also added a new detent on the end of the arm that holds the visor to keep it from sliding side to side on 10/17/1989 for VINS after JNKNG01C*LM001574.
This is in TSB ITB90-036 released on 11/29/1990. The TSB also mentions that they did not change the part number with the updates but that all parts inventory would be of the new design.
Heath
Heath's TSB information is very helpful. Now, at least we are positive Infiniti is aware of the sunvisor design defect.
Years ago, I remember asking my local dealership service department to handle the repair as a factory defect and they denied any knowledge of the problem.
I'm ready, after all this research & help, to begin the repair. Given that the Q45 sunvisor defect repair options seem to be:
I like the pinning, posting, & threading options above. I think I'll try to thread it first; if I can't get the nut on, I'll then file down the landing post; and if the threads strip, I'll try the pinning option.
It might take me a while as I go slowly when I'm ripping things apart due to my inexperience and timidity (I've never done this before but I'll try to document the steps so the next gal who tries it will have an easier time of it than I),
Alora
Years ago, I remember asking my local dealership service department to handle the repair as a factory defect and they denied any knowledge of the problem.
I'm ready, after all this research & help, to begin the repair. Given that the Q45 sunvisor defect repair options seem to be:
- Replace with factory Q45 sunvisors (approx. $450/pair + labor)
- Replace with salvage Q45 sunvisors (approx. $100/pair + labor)
- Repair by sanding down the plastic collar (hoping this gives the steel spring clamp enough fresh aluminum to bit into)
- Repair by threading the aluminum post (8x1.25mm) & replacing the steel spring clamp with a half-height steel nut
- Repair by drilling an approx. 1mm diameter hole 2 to 3 mm below the tip of the aluminum post & replacing the steel spring clamp with a 1 mm diameter 1 cm long holding pin
I like the pinning, posting, & threading options above. I think I'll try to thread it first; if I can't get the nut on, I'll then file down the landing post; and if the threads strip, I'll try the pinning option.
It might take me a while as I go slowly when I'm ripping things apart due to my inexperience and timidity (I've never done this before but I'll try to document the steps so the next gal who tries it will have an easier time of it than I),
Alora