Project Lilia Uber ("BUILD THREAD")

[xharobikeslifex]

Removed the intake manifold from the intake collector and the fuel rails/lines

Power washed, scrubbed, and tapped off the intake parts I wanted to get painted

I decided to throw in my exhaust manifold and get it painted at the same time

and of course I finally sprayed them. If any of you are curious I first spray one heavy coat then wait 10-15 minutes then spray on one light coat and let it sit for 4 to 5 hours at approximately 70-75 degrees "btw I have 2x space heaters in my garage because it's cold out "

[240life]

Heres a picture of one rail cut up and ready to be shipped just want you to take a look and see if that is what you wanted.

-John

Thats it, any idea on weight so I can find the best means of shipping both of them? You can contact me via [email protected] to keep clutter out of your thread

[OM3GA]

You are definitely putting a lot of work into this! I approve! Keep it going

[xharobikeslifex]

Thats it, any idea on weight so I can find the best means of shipping both of them? You can contact me via [email protected] to keep clutter out of your thread

Hey man I sent you 2 emails and have received no reply I think you might have gaven me the wrong email address could you send me a email [email protected] so I can talk about shipping and etc.

-John

[xharobikeslifex]

Thanks for the kind replies. If you havn't noticed i'm kind of a clean freak haha.

Today I pulled off the heater hose brackets to wash and paint them.




I sprayed them with high heat aluminum and also cleaned and sprayed my alternator brackets with high heat semi gloss black while I was at it.


I impacted both my intake and exhaust side motor mounts with a 14mm deep socket



I decided to replace both my ecu temperature sensor and dash gauge temperature sensor


I used a 19mm and a 12mm deep socket to remove both of them


Heres a comparison of old vs new mine are not that bad at all... oh well haha


It's not necessary to put teflon tape, but I chose to do it just to be on the safe side. tighten and your done



I replaced all of these clamps because these ones are lame and dumb


And instead I used these clamps shown in the pictures, I decided to also reuse my heater hoses they didn't seem to be that bad in shape, so I cleaned it in hot soapy water.



And reinstalled it back onto the block. I didn't have to reroute them since this will be a RHD car



When the intake assembly is out be sure to replace all the necessary gaskets such as...

Idler air control valve gasket


Throttle body gasket


Intake collector gasket


And lastly the intake manifold gasket "note" the intake manifold and collector gasket goes on only one way, so you don't have to worry about which side you have to put it on.


Also please replace all your fuel lines the last thing you want for your engine is a fire, so don't over look these, I got 2 feet of 5/16" thick fuel lines that should cover all of them.


I thought I had pictures of me tightenting the whole intake assembly to the block, but I guess I didn't anyways I used a 12mm with a 3/8 extension to tighten everything, I cross hand tightened everything on the intake side where as the exhaust side i'm going to hit the fsm for torque specs.

Make sure you install your intake brackets one here located at the bottom of your intake collector, I impacted it back on with a 12mm socket


Don't forget about this one I almost did it's located right above the throttle body, I used a combo of a ratchet and wrench to tighten 12mm btw



Heres a pic of where some of the hoses connect to on the "IACV" and the vaccum booster line. Once again this will be a "RHD car" so the line needs to be pointing right if your looking at it in the back of the engine. Ignore the IACV sensor those I mounted in the wrong location it actually needs to be bolted to the top of intake manifold


In this pic you can kind of see where both the other lines need to be connected to if someone wants some better close up pictures just let me know, I actually just remember where everything went.


I replaced the oem fuel pressure regulator with a nismo fpr


I bolted on my alternator brackets I used a 14mm with a 3/8 extension here.


And a 12mm socket here.


Thats pretty much where I stopped today more updates soon once I receive my next order of goodies!!


Oh I also forgot I ran into a problem with the p/s pump the DOHC KA p/s pump wont bolt onto the SR p/s bracket, I think it's because my bracket and pump on my sr was a HICAS If anyone has a non HICAS SR p/s bracket let me know i'm in the market to buy one. The one I have is too small...

[240life]

Hey man I sent you 2 emails and have received no reply I think you might have gaven me the wrong email address could you send me a email [email protected] so I can talk about shipping and etc.

-John

IDK why I didn't get them...I replied to your e-mail

[iceman.chris]

Make sure you use the high temp exhaust paint and cure it after spraying it. I painted my manifold then just went over it with the blowtorch for 10-15 minutes. No chipping or flaking even months later.

[xharobikeslifex]

Thanks for the heads up , I did use high heat paint, but I did not cure it. I guess ill have to buy me a blow torch, I was needing one anyways.

[xharobikeslifex]

IDK why I didn't get them...I replied to your e-mail

Okay i dont know if you checked your email but this is what i said...

one rail weighs 23lbs $38.13 the other rail weighs 24lbs $38.97 plus $50 to have UPS pack it your looking at $130 for shipping and this is just a quote to Lisbonfalls ME

[240life]

Turns out I dont need the passenger side, I am looking closer at my drivers side later this weekend.

[xharobikeslifex]

oh okay well i guess than just let me know if you need them

[xharobikeslifex]

I cleaned and painted the alternator and p/s pump


Also the p/s brackets and some misc pieces


Heres the exhaust manifold gasket I purchased


Part number for exhaust manifold gasket


Before you install the exhaust manifold make sure to grab some anti-seize and put a little bit on the tip of every thread



As you screw on the bolt the anti-seize will spread with the bolt if that makes any sense lol


Finally torque all the bolts to factory spec 27-35 ft lbs, I kept on tightening in a criss cross fashion 1/2 a turn until it was all tighten within spec. Tools needed 3/8 rachet/extension 14mm socket and a 14mm swivel socket "for two of the bolts" I used a 1/2 torque wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor to tighten the bolts down.


I was curious if I was really off on the intake side since I didnt torque that side. long story short I was wayyy off so I pretty much went to the intake side and tightened everything down to factory spec. IACV 6.2-8 ft lbs, intake collector and manifold 13-15 ft lbs, rail cap 2.2-2.8 ft lbs, fuel rail 15-20 ft lbs. Better do it right the first time


Bolt on some misc brackets..



I caught an error this ground is suppose to be to the top right were there is no bolt in the picture not like it really matters, but I like to keep it oem yaaa digg


I threw on my alternator and tightened it



Heres a pic on how the alternator tesioner should hook up like


And a picture of the alternator brackets


Bolted back the brackets to the p/s pump



Cleaned and painted some turbo stuff. Yaaaaa


And that pretty much ends it for today Sorry so far its been boring stuff for the most part, but pretty soon I promise you will start to see this car transform from rags to riches

[xharobikeslifex]

I got some goodies in today


Removed the transmission drain plug with a 1/2 rachet


Replaced it with a magnetic "moon face" drain plug with a 19mm socket




The HKS Shift return spring kit, I've yet to see anyone install this on their car.


first remove the factory 27mm caps on both sides


OEM vs HKS


With the HKS return spring kit, I went the route of using the Harder spring meaning there was an option to use the softer spring for shifter feel. Awww soo pretty...


I had my old Nismo transmission mount laying around and decided to throw that on there, I used a 14mm socket to tighten that down.


Hmm i'd have to say this is the cleanest i've seen inside a transmission thats been used.


I removed the clutch fork and throw-out bearing, so I can reach to the clutch pivot ball



Cleaned it up a little bit and decided to wait to install the nismo clutch pivot ball. Because I want to replace the front transmission cover gasket


Decided to replace my thermostat with a Nismo one. I used a 10mm socket with a 3/8 extension


I got creative and used some leverage to pry open the water neck I believe it's called?


Once that is popped off you can see the thermostat "Note the position of the thermostat before removing, when replacing postion it exactly the same as the OEM one."


Before reinstalling remove the old gasket using a box cutter knife


After comparing the two I concluded that the previous owner had used a nismo thermostat as well there almost identical! Oh well




New Nismo thermostat installed


I used this stuff for a gasket and applied one bead around the water neck <--- wait a minute this is not called a water neck, but you know what I mean.



I first hand tightened it waited an hour and then proceeded to tighten it to 2.7-3.7 ft lbs


That ended my day waiting for more parts to come in the mail this THURSDAY! woot woot

[xharobikeslifex]

I got more parts in the mail last thursday havn't had a chance to actually install them till this monday/tuesday




I first tackled my water pump since I noticed my previous one was leaking it's always recommended to replace it anyways for an "SR" swap. Since the new water pump didn't come with studs, I had to reuse my old ones. I grabbed me some vise grips and a shop rag to keep it from moving.


I threaded one bolt on


And a second bolt, I called this the two bolt method.


I used a 10mm wrench and a 10mm 3/8 socket to tighten both bolts together


Then I used the 10mm wrench to loosed the stud off. Do this to all for studs before removing the water pump.


Then start removing all 5x 12mm bolts that are holding the water pump into place


When I removed the water pump it was being stubborn, so I used a rubber malet to beat it off. Two good whacks and it came off. (Oh man does that sound dirty lol)


Used high temp rtv silicone as a gasket and torqued it down to 12-15 ft lbs


I than proceeded to install my turbo lines, I started with water inlet line and put some thread seal tape


I used a 15mm deepwell socket here so it would fit over the fitting. The fitting gets torqued to 14-23ft lbs.


I then used a 13mm wrench to tighten the line onto the fitting


I then proceeded to the water inlet line, put some pipe thread tape on it, thread it by hand, and use a 19mm deepwell socket to tighten it, and it also gets torqued to 14-23ft lbs.


Put the line onto the fitting and tighten it using a 19mm wrench


I finally moved onto the oil inlet line, put some thread seal tape and torque it down using a 19mm deepwell socket 14-23 ft lbs.


Use a 19mm wrench and tighten the line to the fitting


Now your ready to install the turbo to the exhaust manifold, I actually had to take my exhaust manifold back off. Which was fine for me because I wanted to heat wrap my exhaust manifold. To heat wrap first soak the wrap into a bucket of water "so that it will be easier to wrap and so that you can make it tighter" start by wrapping the bottom of the exhaust and I wrapped the 4th runner then 3rd, 2nd, and finally 1st until my exhaust manifold was completely covered with heat wrap during my "wrapping" I used heat wrap zip ties to hold the wrap into place. Once the heat wrap was complete I used this gasket


And some locking plates


And tighten the F@!K out of the bolts with a 14mm wrench once all 4x bolts are tightened you can then tap in the locking plates on the sides to keep the bolts from unloosing. Bolt back the exhaust manifold like you previously did before and proceed


The water line goes to the bottom near the motor mount bracket tighten and torque to 14-23 ft lbs.


And then oil outlet line goes to the top right under the exhaust manifold tighten and torque to 14-23 ft lbs.


Then finally the last water line goes to the back of the engine remove the factory hose and use a flat head screw driver to tighten.


Grab a compressor outlet gasket


Tighten with a 10mm socket and a 3/8 rachet


Grab a compressor inlet gasket


And tighten with a 12mm socket with a 3/8 extension.


Moved on to the bottom of the engine and removed the 14mm bolt to drain the oil


Don't forget to have a oil pan ready


Now the Greddy oil filter relocation kit install. Started with the oil filter side of the kit. and used allen wrenches to tighten all 2x holes


Grabbed this piece and bolted it to the bottom with a 12mm wrench


With the kit there will be 4x rubber seals you need to place one on this fitting before tightening. Place this fitting to the top and tighten with a 20mm deep socket I used 1/2 rachet


Grab this threaded looking fitting and place a rubber seal underneath and tighten with a 23mm deep socket 1/2 rachet


Finally install the bracket and tighten with 11mm socket


One side complete!


This side is bolted to the stock threaded oil filter location and it's fairly simple tighten all 3x I believe allen screws 1x on top 2x on the side and grab 2x rubber seals and place them under the 2x fittings tighten the bottom fitting with a 20mm deep socket and the top fitting you have to wait till install.


A buddie of mine having difficulty installing the clamps onto the stainless steel hose


This is what it should look like when completed. They should all just slip on.


Mount the kit to the stock oil filter location


And use a 23mm deep socket to tighten it should end up looking like this


Then install the 2x stainless steel lines and tighten with a flat head screw driver


Place the other 2x hoses to the other side of the kit and tighten with a flat head screw driver


Grab a oil filter and some oil. Place your finger in the oil and apply it around the rubber seal "doing this helps the oil filter seal better"


Hand tighten it and grab some zip ties to keep it from dangling


Now it's time to replace that old front oil seal


Grab an impact gun with a 27mm socket and go at it!


Lol! He looks surprized that it came off with no problem at all


I didn't have a puller so me and my friend thinked outside of the box and used two large flat head screw drivers on opposite sides to pry it off.


lube up the new oil seal with engine oil duh!


I put the old seal on top of the new one, so that it can seat evenly


I used a hammer to tap it into place


And the finished product can't really see it but trust me it's on correctly


I Got me a Greddy oil pan woot woot!


First I installed this plate with the screws given to you


And the smaller plate I screwed in on this side


I then bought a circuit sports magnetic drain plug


I then tightened it with a 14mm socket and I put thread seal tape on this allen screw and tightened that with an allen wrench.
I would install the pan, but i'm waiting for my s14 oil strainer to arrive before I install.


This ends my day. Now i'm waiting for another shipment of parts oooo boy I can't wait you guys just don't even know what I have in mind so stay TUNED!



Oh and I almost forgot I have a problem I cant seem to find 2x bolt for the bottom of this t25 turbo could anyone help me out maybe where to go to buy one I have a bucket full of spare bolts and I s*** you not. Not one of them threads in... :x

[Producer]

Woah I am jealous as Fawwwwwk

Im scared to know how long it took

the only thing that I dont agree with is "Royal Purple"

-A wise 240 owner once told me never to run that in 240's unless you change it every 2,000 miles

SR's run that oil VERY thin.

* love the pics man * love the car

[xharobikeslifex]

I was just using royal purple oil to help seal the oil filter and front main seal better, I actually plan on using mobile 1. Although on "start up" I will just use regular oil for some on miles.

[xharobikeslifex]

More stuff arrived! woohoo I swear its like christmas every two weeks lol



I decided to replace the s13 oil strainer with an s14 oil strainer.


First your going to have to take all 10x oil pan bolts with a 10mm 3/8 rachet. And remove the pan using a combo of a putty knife and hammer.


Next remove the 6x plate bolts with a 12mm socket with a 3/8 extension. Take note of location of the baffle plate before removing it


Once I took off the baffle plate I discovered lots of oil sludge gooo!



Heres me with some disposal gloves scraping all the old oil/sludge with my hands. I could be on the tv show "Dirty Jobs" for doing this.


Your going to need a 12mm socket and 3/8 extension for 2 of the bolts thats holding the oil strainer also a 10mm wrench


Once you remove the oil strainer notice the difference between the s13 vs s14 oil strainer the s13 has a smaller opening where as the s14 has a much larger one. The 10mm bolt for the s14 oil strainer is bolted to a different location and is a PITA to thread on two people helping you will make it easier to do.


First your going to put a new oil strainer gasket then "Loosely bolt up the 2x 12mm bolts"


Me and my buddy confirmed that using just your hands, magnet, wrench, needle nose pliers have all failed in trying to get this god forsaken bolt threaded on.


What we did find out to work just fine was positioning the bolt dead center having a small flat head screw driver keep it in place and "slowly" wrenching on it with a 10mm wrench.


Heres a better pic on how tight of space you have to work with thats why it's better to have the 2x 12mm bolts loosely tightened to allow for more clearance.


Once you have wrenched the bolt in far enough, you can finally squeeze the rachet wrench on it to make it easier to tighten.


Don't forget to tighten and torque the strainer bolts to 12-14ft lbs. Oh and as for the strainer bracket I just goodin tightened it. Once the strainer installed. Now reinstall the baffle plate and torque them to 4.7 to 5.5ft lbs. Then Scrape and remove all the old gasket from the oil pan.


Now apply gasket sealer with one continuous bead all around your new greddy oil pan!




Heres the hardware that came with the greddy oil pan the 4x larger bolts go to the sides of the oil pan where the 6x smaller bolts go to the front and rear. have an allen wrench on standy as well as these bolts. Position the oil pan and screw on all the screws "snug tight" wait about 10-15 minutes then proceed to torque to 4.7-5.5ft lbs. With that low of a number I just hand tightened them.


When I removed the Crank Pulley I uncovered more dirt/grime so I cleaned it up


Then sprayed it with 2x coats of high heat engine enamel.


This concludes my day.

[Producer]

BUt I think once your all said and done please please , review receipts and put a nice little $$$$ how much this all way

wish I took the time to do mine like this damn

Good luck and hope it all works out

[xharobikeslifex]

Ya I have saved every receipt from parts I bought online and locally minus misc stuff though from oreillys and tools I needed to buy.

I was planning on re-editing the 1st page with all the parts I replaced/put on and an overview page so that people can quickly go to a page number if they needed to use as a reference.

And thank you for posting on my thread it's people like you that keep me motivated, spending that extra bit of time to put it on the forums.

[Producer]

This thing is so bad a** your going to get 4 guys in black suits to arrive on start up from "nissan" and they will seize it and hand you a check for 10,000

and give you a gag order

[el OCHO]

Looks f***in great man, keep it up

[xharobikeslifex]

This thing is so bad a** your going to get 4 guys in black suits to arrive on start up from "nissan" and they will seize it and hand you a check for 10,000

and give you a gag order

At the rate Im going i'm gonna pass the $10,000 aftermarket "marker". lol Just the engine and transmission alone i'll probably have over $2000 in parts invested.


Okay finally got my gaskets in for my transmission I decided to replace the front trans cover gasket. Since i'm going to replace the pivot ball I removed that first with a 17mm deep socket.


Then got a 12mm socket with a 3/8 extension and loosened all of the front trans cover bolts.


Once all the bolts was removed getting the cover off with my hands was unsuccessful so I used a putty knife and a hammer to seperate it.


Heres a pic of it finally off.


Old gasket vs new gasket.


Cleaned out the cover and don't forget to put this metal seal back on before you slap the cover on. Also don't forget to scrape off the old gasket residue. Tighten the cover bolts to 12-15 ft lbs.


Nismo pivot ball vs OEM.


Hand tighten the pivot ball use a 17mm deep socket and then torque down to 14-25 ft lbs.


COMPLETE


Next is the transmission gear box gasket.


Scrape the old gasket and place it like so...


And bolt and torque the 12mm bolts down to 10-13 ft lbs.


Okay Greddy Pulley Kit Installation, so since I cant read japanese, I decided to do some researching and well the picture pretty much explains it all for the alternator pulley.


Place spacer that should have came with the kit on FIRST and use a 17mm deep socket and gently tap the spacer all the way in.


Like so....


Then Install the pulley I used painters tape on the outer edge of the pulley, so that I wouldnt damage the pulley. I then placed a board, so that I can hammer and seat it in place.


Installed woot woot! I just hand tightened the pulley nut for now until I can figure out what its torqued two? I'm thinking about just torquing it to 35 ft lbs...


Heres a side view picture.


Water pump pulley and supplied bolts


Place on like so and torque the 10mm bolts to 4.6-6 ft lbs

I would do the Power steering but I'm waiting for my non hicas p/s bracket/pump to arrive. So to be continued......

[xharobikeslifex]

Thanks man things seem to be flowing the way I want it to go so far.

But anyways onto the build thread!


Replaced the rear oil seal on my transmission everytime I do an sr swap this seal always drips transmission fluid about time I did the right thing and replace it haha.


So here is where the rear oil seal is located this often gets hard and doesn't want to seal properly thus me changing it.


So a seal puller would be nice but I didn't have one so instead I used some leverage!


I then put the new seal into place and used a 36mm socket to seat it in place by lightly tapping it with a hammer.


Hella seated brah


Me and my buddie wesly got creative and figured out a way to hold the alternator pulley without it spining. I'm sure there is an easier way. but we like to think outside of the box haha. we grabbed my old belt and clamped it to the pulley with vise grips. Then we got some huge pliers to clamp over the belt, so the pulley wouldn't get scratched. As he was holding on to dear life I went ahead and torqued it to 45 ft lbs, I never did figure out the actual torque spec for the alternator pulley but since the power steering pulley is 50 ft lbs I figured it was in the same ball park.

The Beginning of the legendary S15 CONVERSION!


What can possibly be in this box? hmmm



S15 RADIATOR SUPPORT WHAT! ya boi I'm going S15 front on this build.


Okay removing the s13 radiator support.. remove on both sides the 14mm bolts


Then remove the horn brackets with a 10mm socket


Now using a power drill and a steel braided wheel. Grind off the primer to bare metal to locate the spot welds there will be a total of about 50 spotwelds 25 on the left and 25 on the right fun stuff. And they are all located....


Side of the headlight mount.


Bottom of the headlight mount.


Quite a few located by the rails.


2x located on the side of the rail.


And finally 2x underneath the rails... It helps to look at the s15 radiator support and then look at your s13 radiator support there quite indentical so the spotwelds should be in the same general area.


I used a spot weld drill bit to obviously remove the spot welds I had previously located.


And I used a combination of an air hammer and a wood chisel to remove the radiator support from the chassis.



Even if you missed some spot welds the air chisel can zip right through them, but I'd be careful doing it you might zip through other parts of the chassis that you don't want to.


Ahh It's finally almost out


After It's all loose and ready to come out the last thing you need to do is remove the 4x bolts on the tension rods on the bottom of the radiator support 2x bolts on each bracket, I used a 14mm socket and an impact to loosen them lowered the vehicle and then proceeded to loosen it all the way with a regular socket wrench.




And yourrrrr OUT! This was super super easy to do compared to the firewall....


Old s13 radiator support just chilling... Saying wtf mate?


I mocked up the S15 radiator support everything seemed to align great and then I noticed an issue my S13 tension rods wont reach the radiator support... hmmm I may have to get clever on this one or get some S14 ones since those might be slightly longer.


To be continued...

[240life]

coming along nicely....you still got the old frame rails still. I could pay pal you on Friday to ship the Driver-side .

[xharobikeslifex]

yes I still have the driver side rails and friday would be fine for me to get it sent out to you send me an email with your address zip city and state [email protected]

[Didderson]

Man you have some crazy welding skills. I'm sure some drifter guy would love to buy that front s13 support lol.

Can't wait to see what's up next. Always great info in here

[xharobikeslifex]

Welp Now only working one job I decided to attend summer school at jccc this year, so don't expect alot of updates. I have set a new goal and thats by the end of december 2010, I plan to have my car ready for paint. Here is my mental time line 1st Finish engine and transmission 2nd s15 conversion/sideskirts+rear bumper 3rd roll cage/fuel cell 4th suspension/wheels




Tension Rod Dillemma with S15 Radiator support


So this is a pic of s14 tension rod "on top" vs s13 tension rod "on bottom" The main difference is that the s14 tension rod is longer, and will reach to the s15 radiator support.


The S14 tension rod "left" will bolt up with no problem to the s15 radiator support, but the S13 tension rod "right" would have to be modified if I decided to use the s13 tension rod


If I went with the S14 tension rod "top" then I would have a problem with bolting it to the frame rail because it's shorter than the s13 tension rod "bottom"


S13 tension rod to s13 frame rail "obviously no problems."


S14 tension rod to s13 frame rail shorter thus not reaching to the other bolt hole. In the end I will most likely have to modify either the s13 or s14 tension rod either way to make it work with the s15 radiator support.



I decided to spray some rustroleum where ryan welded at, so that it wont rust over a period of time.




Plus it's probably a good idea to spray some in this area before I have him weld these brackets back on.



I decided to replace all my freeze plugs, You have to be very careful doing this normally this is done when rebuilding the engine. As you can tell, I popped my first plug right into my engine dammit.


Sooooo... I decided to remove my valve cover, so that It would be easier for me to take out some freeze plugs. I started by removing the coil packs with a 10mm socket wrench.


Then remove all 13x 10mm bolts holding the valve cover in place, I started with the middle bolt first then proceeded to work my way around the valve cover. "Remember don't forget to have a ziplock bag in hand for all the bolts"


I then removed this hose that connects to the pvc valve, I believe thats what it's called.


Then give it a tug to break the gasket seal and remove the valve cover.


OMFG! This is absolutely unacceptible, I really want to rebuild my engine although it is currently not on my top things to do, so what i've decided to do is simply. Do what I had intended to do FIRST then go back and see if it's in my budget/time to rebuild it or not. Sooooo moving on...


I managed to find the freeze plug, I accidently popped into my engine.


What you want to do is SLOWLY tap one corner of the free plug with a flathead screwdriver and hammer until it looks like this.



Then use a combination of needle nose pliers and normal pliers to pry out the freeze plugs.



Once the freeze plug is out clean the surface area where your going to put the new freeze plug in and use a combination of a 21mm socket and hammer to "seat" the new freeze plug in.


In order to get to one of the exhaust side freeze plugs I needed to tap out the oil tube, I used a large flat head and a hammer to tap it out.


Moved on to install my Nismo motor mounts.


The Nismo mounts did not come with the brackets that are on the OEM ones, so you need to remove the brackets that are on the OEM mounts and install them to your Nismo mounts.


"Instake side" bracket installed on the Nismo mount.


Nismo mount "intake side" installed onto the motor mount bracket, you need a 14mm wrench.


Nismo mount installed "exhaust side" onto the motor mount bracket, you need a 14mm wrench.



ATI Super Damper Install! First I just used the supplied bolts to just hand tighten the p/s pulley to the crank pulley.


Then thoroughly clean your crankshaft and apply a small amount of antiseize.


Theres only one way to put the pulley on and unlike the OEM crank pulley the ATI crank pulley is a tight fit, so to get it started I used a rag on the pulley then placed a board and hammered it till it was on securely.


Then used the impact gun to completely "seat" the pulley in place, I used a 27mm socket btw.


Then I threw the new belt on thus concluding my day.

[h-eater240]

so much work into this!!!! I read it from page 1 to current and updated post, (it was a lot of reading) but i love the work you are doing to this and it's definitely going to pay off man. Can't wait to see this finished.

Also could i ask for a part of you?
on the clip you ordered, i need the bracket/boot thing that bolts to the chassis that keeps dust and what not out of the cabin. My friend just picked up an SR coupe and it's got a e-cutout right underneath the transmission and exhaust fumes smother the interior. It's a hard part to come by but i saw it in the pics. and i'll make an offer on it.

Let me know if you can ship that to me, 23321
Email me so i don't clutter your build thread.

[email protected]
thanks dude

-rick

[xharobikeslifex]

so much work into this!!!! I read it from page 1 to current and updated post, (it was a lot of reading) but i love the work you are doing to this and it's definitely going to pay off man. Can't wait to see this finished.

-rick

Hey thanks man I would update, but as of right now it's temporarly on hold due to college bills I have to pay

[Skyline_BNR34]

The only thing I notice that you did wrong with this build during the firewall swap was you did nothing to support the car. You cut out the firewall you should have put support braces in the engine bay and interior to keep everything perfectly square.

I'm sure you didn't screw anything up while doing the swap, but you could have seriously screwed up the straightness of the body. Especially since you took out a huge structurally supportive item in the car.

Looks good though, can't wait to see it fully finished.