Skyline_BNR34 wrote:The only thing I notice that you did wrong with this build during the firewall swap was you did nothing to support the car. You cut out the firewall you should have put support braces in the engine bay and interior to keep everything perfectly square.

I'm sure you didn't screw anything up while doing the swap, but you could have seriously screwed up the straightness of the body. Especially since you took out a huge structurally supportive item in the car.

Looks good though, can't wait to see it fully finished.

Ya I was aware of something like that. I figured since the car was on jack stands it would be as though in an assembly line. Plus I made sure not to remove the subframe during the process. I'm not saying doing this method will work all the time i'm just saying thats what i went about it and thankfully did not have any issues. Everything lined up pretty well

can we has update?!?! jebus last update was end of april.

And I swear to god if you have given up I'm going to punch you in the baby maker.

CRyan wrote:can we has update?!?! jebus last update was end of april.

And I swear to god if you have given up I'm going to punch you in the baby maker.

Haha well then one update coming right up!

Removing the Side Mirrors


First Remove this trim piece to uncover Bolts


Then Remove the 3x 12mm bolts with a 3/8 racthet and 3/8 ext.


Before pulling out the side mirrors when the bolts are removed don't forget to disconnect the connector inside the door panels


As well as any plastic pieces holding the wires to the door.


Then finally you can remove the mirrors.


Removing the Doors


First thing I did was remove the plastic piece holding the wire to the chassis of the vehicle.


I then pulled the rubber grommet out and snaked the door connector out.



Open the door and remove the pin as shown in this pic by taping the bottom with a hammer and prying it out with some pliers.


Then Finally remove the 2x bolt hinges thats holding the door to the frame. There's 2x bolts on top and 2x bolts on bottom.
Use a 14mm socket with an extension.


Now finally the doors should come off with ease, but be careful there pretty damm heavy.


Removing the Quarter Windows


First remove the 10mm bolt inside the vehicle.


Then it should come right out! haha j/k I used a windshield remover kit I bought from harbor freight all I did was wedge a wire and began sawing all around the window until it was loose to remove. Sorry 4 not taking pics it was difficult to take pics while doing it.





I did notice that my 180sx windows turned out to be 240sx windows with a 180sx sticker fooled me for a lil bit until i rubbed against the window and felt a slight incline on the 180sx part haha ooo well.











Now these pictures are more for my reference, but I simply removed the rest of the chassis harness, so it wouldn't get in the way when it comes time to paint this bad gurl. As you can see from the pictures I started from the driver side and worked my way around to the passenger

Rear Seat Bracket Removal




The Process is the same like the firewall. First I used a steel braided wheel to sand down the paint to locate the spotwelds, I then marked the spotwelds with a permanent marker and began drilling them out with a spotweld drill bit. After all the spotwelds were removed I then used a combination of a wood chisel and hammer/ air hammer to remove the brackets.




After an hour or 2 this is what you end up removing.



Here's photos of what it looks like without the rear seat brackets. Oh it's sure going to be fun filling all those holes when it comes time to prep the car.


But in the end it's worth it. It's the little things that count that will make this car stand out then others.

I received my parts I sent off to go get powder coated from "Bone Head Performance" the other day. Let me know what you people think of the color I chose.
Valve Cover: Anodized Red W/ Polish Lettering
CAS Cover: Anodized Blue
Injector Caps: Anodized Red
Valve Cover Washers, Brackets, and etc: High Gloss Black
I also ordered Stainless Steel Valve Cover Bolt Kit from them as well.

Yesturday Derek and I knocked out a few things I had to put on my engine.

RAS Installation

First thing was tackling the HKS RAS. In this pic Derek is figuring out which RAS goes on which side. If i'm not mistaken they only go on one way, so don't get worried if you might of installed them incorrectly.


Now begin to loosen the cam bolts in alternating order.


Refer to your fsm for the procedure.


Once you have loosen and removed the bolts Install the RAS as shown


This pic was suppose to be the 2x washers we added on the two bolts on the intake side, so the oil squirters would be level, but I failed in showing which two bolts it was.


In Order to get to one camshaft bracket bolt we had to remove the bracket that was above the timing chain.


Now torque down the camshaft bolts by refering to the fsm


HKS RAS Installed and torqued down. Note on the exhaust side the baffle plate is deleted.

Valve Cover Installation.

Put on both new valve cover gasket and spark plug well gasket.



Make sure you scrape off all of your old gasket with a razor blade and clean off any debris or oil by using a towel with brake parts cleaner sprayed onto it.


With a Wave of the hand the valve cover should magically appear onto the head. Don't forget to use the grey type of gasket sealer on the "half moons" there should be two in the front and two in the rear. Refer to the FSM for torquing the valve cover down correctly.


Derek installing the NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs with a heat range of 7 don't forget to anti-seize them before you tighten them.



Use the sealer tape and thread it around the threads and get a 19mm wrench and tighten it snugly to the valve cover.


"This is fo my homies" (Derek Fint.)


I got rid of my oem CAS cover and purchased a circuit sports CAS cover powder coated Candy Blue.


Added a Nismo Oil cap and removed the bolts to the coil packs.



Circuit Sports Grounding Plate was then Installed.


Anodized Red Injector caps Installed. Even though now I plan to buy a HKS Fuel rail.




And finally the 2x brackets installed on the front of the Valve Cover, and a new oil dump tube was put on as well.


I'm effy on the CAS cover I'm thinking about wrapping it in gold film like Dereck did on his "whip" But overall I don't find it looking that bad. Ahhh I Cant wait to get and install my turbo setup!

Finally managed to update all of my photos to the new layout on Nico! Now it looks like a build thread once again.

coming out nice.... very nice...

Havn't updated for a while because i've been saving my money for the turbo setup. I just got my GT3071R turbo from FRmotorsport custom made.

.63 A/R
4.00" inlet
Compressor Anti-surge
Compressor Polished
T3 Inlet, GT 3.0" V-Band Discharge







I threw my Turbo Blanket on it just to see how baller it will look.



I'm currently saving for my exhaust manifold, injectors, fuel rail, waste-gates, and other misc things. Stay Tuned!

Time for an UPDATE!

I decided to change the color of my valve cover... Anodized red is a hott color, but it has been played out. Here's a pic of what it looked like before.


Here's the new color choice BURNT TITANIUM!






Cleaned out the garage this is my work space. It's were all the magic happens


This is current pics of how the car sits



I sold my coupe and I spent every penny on getting everything exterior wise for the project here's a list of things that I purchased, oh and i'm awaiting for all of this stuff to arrive.

Origin 50-60mm rear over fenders
Origin 20mm S13-S15 conversion fenders
D-MAX Type III S15 front bumper
D-MAX Type III 180sx side skirts
D-MAX Type III 180sx rear bumper
180sx Kouki Tail lights
OEM S15 hood
S15 hood hinges
S15 head lights

Here's pics of what the seller sent me.

Was this ever completed?

Lookin good man, keep it up