so i am sure some one asked al lready but are you going to stay RHD.

Yes I'm currently saving some money for a front clip, but I dont know where to find one.

soo after selling quite a few things and saving my a** off i managed to finally come up with the money to buy my front clip!?! woot woot score 1 for the mexican. I went threw this site http://www.jrautoparts.com/index.html to buy my clip $2800 shipped to my front door (well not literally to the door) i first had to make a deposit of $500 then he showed me pics and a vid of the clip ill be receiving if i didnt like that one then he would take other pics of a different clip but judging from the pics he sent me with the first one i didnt need to do that. once uve decided which one u want u then pay the rest and then they ship it


ahhhh sooo freaking clean! cant wait for it to arrive heres VIDEO plus PICS of it!!!!







[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9orwvTkCoQ[/youtube]

Ok so sorry guys for the lack of updates but ever since i got the clip i couldn't help my self to stop working on it but here is a update i had gotten the clip like a month or so ago haha and have had it, it's absolutely flawless in my eyes

heres pics of it!?!?!







It came with keys which i was really suprized i didn't think they would send that


it also came with a old school turbo timer sweet!


i got my battery out just to c if not only the turbo timer works but everything else including the engine "which btw did start till there was no more gas going to the engine"




heres some more random shots



this came with a digital gauge cluster with HUD "that does work" and the dash which im very suprized is not cracked woot woot


what? a jdm bag?


heres the side mount and some stuff ill be needing to convert it to RHD




oh and how can i forget the main thing the ENGINE!




very impressed to receive this all for $2800 Shipped

Removing the SR (not defined)

First removed battery
2nd drain Coolant + Oil


3rd Disconnect hot pipe from turbo *note mark and label every hose you disconnect


4th remove intercooler cold pipe


5th remove radiator + fan shroud


6th remove engine harness most of these pics are 4 my reference






7th disconnect lower harness i chose to leave the harness on the engine when i pulled it



8th remove both motor mount nuts


9th remove downpipe, place a jack under the tranny and remove the cross member+tranny mount then lower the jack slightly and remove the shifter


10th position the jack as needed to finally pull the engine out


11th double and make sure stuff is not hung up and slowly lift and puller out




12th finally get a engine stand and grab a buddy to hump the living s*** out of your pulled engine




Oh btw how i managed to get the clip off the ground was i put 2 wheels in the front and 2 jack stands in the rear

hey good looking pile of parts bro...and its to bad to see how some people would destroy their car just to be rhd...well hey if you need any pointers on how to get that firewall out let me know! i've already did my conversion and i think i can make your whole life easier if you undrilled every effin spot weld from the clip and you can pretty much cut out your usdm firewall thats what i did and it made it go a lot quicker..another thing once you have both firewalls out and your ready to put in the new rhd firewall use your hood hinges to bolt down the firewall to the car and that way its pretty much lined up for you when you weld. also make sure you take the whole firewall as one piece and not two so that way you have the windshield wipers on the jdm side. i see lots of conversions where people just leave the usdm ones and dont change the windshield wipers spots...i know i sound confusing but just look at some of those details like compare your car to the clip. here are some pics if it helps any.

in this one you can see where i drilled the spotwelds out to the fenderwelland in this one you can see the windshield wiper location i was talking about!

in some of the pics it looks like i dont have brakelines, but i just did a brakeline tuck..well hey man i hope you didnt think this was a thread jack but its just more info for you when you start doing your work on the conversion...if you have any questions just hit me up peace....

Modified by k00laid83 at 4:40 PM 6/9/2009
Modified by k00laid83 at 4:42 PM 6/9/2009

no not a thread jack at all i actually started taking out my firewall but broke a spotweld bit and had to stop but my intentions were to drill out all the spot welds on both the usdm and jdm firewall what exactly are you talking about cutting out the firewall? just cut out the usdm one and drill out the jdm one and if so then how would i go in doing it what kind of tool will i need to cut it out?

what i mean about the usdm one is that your going to have to drill out spot welds but they'll be the ones on the frame and the edges of the firewall but you'll have trouble taking it out so i just cut it in half and it came right out.

i think i know what u mean like i can take it out but it will be a PITA so to save me some time i just hack up the usdm one and as for the jdm one work its way out

Clean looking clip, that engine and piping is so shiny. Nice!

xharobikeslifex wrote:i think i know what u mean like i can take it out but it will be a PITA so to save me some time i just hack up the usdm one and as for the jdm one work its way out

yea thats what i meant...also make sure you drill out the firewall all the way to the edge behind the fender you know where the body harness goes through the side holes...i know it sounds confusing but once you get there you'll understand what i mean!

i think i might know what ur talking about ive started hacking on it but havnt posted updates yet i am a little confused on where to drill out some stuff though maybe u might help me

xharobikeslifex wrote:i think i might know what ur talking about ive started hacking on it but havnt posted updates yet i am a little confused on where to drill out some stuff though maybe u might help me

i hope this can help

ya that does help alot i really just was curious if i had to remove that plate or not cause i knew i couldn't get the spotwelds from the inside

well man im glad i could help

ok so minor update started tearing apart the 180sx dash and managed to get everything out so i can start drilling out the spotwelds for the firewall removal ive been working on the spotwelds on my 240sx / working on some interior will have pics on that shortly. these pics are mainly for my reference only i know ill need to double look this and see where everything is plugged into cause im a noob when it comes to memorization

pics



ok so started off with the gauge cluster then just went crazy with the screw driver and rachet and started unscrolting!?





















ok i know i know not considered a update but ive been working alot lately trying to get me some parts for this beast since im working on interior first

i got ordered
circuit sports hub
circuit sports quick release
and a greddy rear strut bar for now

working on getting me a steering wheel but am very very frusterated maybe u the viewers can help me out on a predicament im having. breath in breath out sigh..... IM HATING NARDI RIGHT MEOW and ill explain u see i want this steering wheel right here

specs Nardi Deep Corn
330mm
leather w/ red stitching

I dispise red stitching and it seems to me that nardi makers love it but some of them do come with white or black stitch but not on all models i simply want

Nardi Deep Corn
340-350mm
suede w/ black stitching and the deep corn must have those rivits like on the pic some deep corn are just smooth if u know what i mean

ive tried at
phase 2
weaksauceparts.com
passwordjdm
pretty much googled it and came with nothing but w/ red stitchings to the face arg help me

any updates

I'm really sorry about the lack of updates, but ever since school started and I recently got another DUI, I've been really really busy in figuring out my money situation and what not, but I did manage to do little things here and there. So I will post those things up soon.

OH and I had plans for a s13.5 front end conversion but that got destroyed with court costs, so that is on hold as well haha. I'm thinking about buying a parts car just to throw on the stock popup lights for now just so I can drive the damm thing, and then slowly add parts onto to the car to make it where I want it to be.

Today I just recently found out that alot of parts I wanted to buy for my car are discontinued. The people at phase 2 motortrend told me that HKS has discontinued there HKS FMIC'S ahhhh nooo <I actually knew that a long time ago but i never heard or seen anyone post that up anywhere. But just recently I heard that 2-3 months ago Bride has stopped producing the BRIX II seats

*RIP BRIX II*

Nice job so far. I thought there was no hope with this project, but I was wrong. Patience paid off.

Looking forward to an update.

Update

Okay since i'm not so sure who exactly will be welding in my firewall im going to leave that aside for now until i figure something out. But for those of you who want to know what my engine bay currently looks like now heres some pics...




So in the mean time I've decided to thoroughly clean the sr20det engine/transmission heres the supplies I will be using:


Heres the project:


First remove the A/C compressor


Next take off the P/S pump


Then take off the motor mount bracket. since I have previously removed the the exhaust manifold and turbo, you will have to do the same.


move over to the intake side and take out the alternator and bracket


look underneath the intake manifold and remove the knock sensor



unbolt the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the block



and finally disconnect everything that is attached to the block that's connected to the intake manifold such as: lines, brackets, metal tubes, sensors, and coil pack plugs.





once the intake manifold is removed plug the intake holes with some towls, and continue removing things that you don't want to get painted such as lines and what not.



in the end your aiming to have your block completely stripped like so

I like this thread

FIREWALL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION!

Okay after several months of research, blood, sweat, and tears. I finally managed to get the firewall removed. First things first if you plan on tackling this project please do your research first and don’t have a mind set like me thinking it was going to be a weekend deal.

Tools I used to remove the firewall:
-2x Hammers one small one large (you only really need the large one)
-Reciprocating saw (I used this to make it easier for me to remove both firewalls using different methods)
-Drill
-2x Spot weld drill bits as you can see in the pic, (I used one that looks like a normal drill bit, which cuts threw the spot weld, and one that is an odd looking drill bit that cuts around the spot weld. I used both a combination and in the end the odd looking drill bit seemed to be most effective.)
-Wood and Chisel set (used to separate the firewall once the spot welds are removed)
-Air Hammer (Optional but I “STRONGLY” recommend getting it because there will be spot welds that you drilled out but not all the way)
-Drop light
-Set of steel braided sanding wheels (used to locate the spot welds)
-And lastly 6x 30 packs of budlight (Optional)





REMOVING THE FIREWALL ON THE "CLIP"

hokay so once you have taken off the side plates you will discover a few more spot welds, I was confused for quite a while on where these spot welds are so I took pictures so that other people can use me as a reference.


Take note: of the spot welds on the side and bottom (for the side spot welds it was kind of a PITA to get too with a bit so do the best you can in removing it with a spot weld bit and loosen it up with an air hammer but be careful using the air hammer it will tear s*** up)

inside shot of the bottom spot welds



You will discover more spot welds on top drill them out and air hammer it loose


As you can see in this picture I had to take off the bracket on top, but in the bottom corner wedge. I needed to remove some spot welds that were hard to get...

Heres a close up of what i'm talking about, I managed to remove the spot welds but it was still strongly secure. So i left it at that and proceeded to other areas.




Me and my buddie Wesly Maurer flipped over the clip and removed spots welds and chiseled the firewall loose


While in the mean time my friend Shelby was helping out removing the fabric on my door panels. (I think she might of broken a nail) God I love friends lol


Wesly managed to push the two sides down to see what was needed for this firewall to come out


After some thinking I decided to cut the green circled area with a reciprocating saw and than remove the bracket when the firewall was out


Firewall removed





Heres some reference pics in where all the spot welds are located. "Note" in the last picture you can see that we bent the hell out of the clip so that the fire wall would just slide out easier. Keep this in mind when removing a firewall from the "clip" do whatever you want to the clip to make it easier to get the firewall out, but try not to ruin your firewall in the process.

REMOVING THE FIREWALL ON THE "SHELL"


Where as the firewall on the "shell" do whatever you want to the firewall to make it easier to take out, but try not to damage your shell in the process. Like in this pick my buddie Ryan Berry (whats_next) is cutting the firewall down the middle to make it easier to take out


As you can see me Ryan Berry and Mitch Miller are just taking the firewall out chunks at a time


Now when removing the firewall on the "shell" you need to remove this bracket where as in the "clip" we just cut that s*** off



Like so...




Pretty much the process is the same for removing it on the "clip" drill inside the car and chisel underneath the car.
and with enough tugging and pulling it will eventually be out.


Oh yea and don't forget to give a friendly goodbye to your old firewall.

TEST FITTING FIREWALL


Louis Mcconell (I think it fits)







I was at work when most of the test fitting happened but as you can see from the pictures things seemed to line up quite well with some clamping, man handling, tack welding, and hammering. From Louis and Ryan


Looks like a captain morgan ad I once saw haha

WElDING THE FIREWALL


Well this is the bad sucker that welded my firewall in place im not so sure on what brand or type of welder this is but if you really want to know I can ask.




Double check and make sure things are fitted into place haha and start WELDING!









Ryan Berry Everyone! The welds turned out great everything went according to plan.










Ryan even managed to swap out the vin number which I was most greatful for just needs a little bondo, sanding, and paint and it wont even be noticable. I really got to say thanks to all the people that helped me Dillon, Wesly, Ryan, John, Mitch, Louis, and K00laid from nico forums. I really couldn't of done it without your help and support.

If I had to do this all over again I would of just cut the firewall and had someone weld it. Drilling out the spot welds is such a PITA and really not worth the time. But I'm glad it's in and over worth now I can really start focusing this build on other areas either than the firewall thank GOD! (sigh of relief)

nice job man, cant wait to see her finished up

I just got done cleaning and painting the engine/tranny I first used some cheap engine degreaser and power washed the s*** out of it and then brought it back inside the garage to detail it with my little scrubby






I then covered everything I didnt want to get painted. Oh and a word of advice don't use shipping tape to tape things up like I did you will get runs when you spray on it ya I know I wasn't thinking.





Finally then Sprayed it with high heat engine enamel i think i used silver from dupon paint. I liked the way it came out I mean it's okay for now until I plan on rebuilding it.

you want to sell the old rails off of your clip...im going to be doing some repairs on mine and those could come in handy

If I did then you would have to pay for shipping and how much were you thinking on buying them off me 4?

50 a side? + shipping I only want the rails, the strut towers and inner fender area can be removed/ cut off. Shipping greyhound is the probably the cheapest....if your interested trim off the fat and weigh them so i can get a quote...Living in Maine makes finding a good set of rails pretty difficult, and I don't have much $ to drift this year so I figured I would fix what the previous owner failed at.

i think i can do that so do you want both sides? for $100 plus shipping

yeah no rush on them, I will e mail you in about 2 weeks...just thought I would see if you had them and was interested in selling first.

I can send you a pic to your email of one rail cut up and ready to be shipped.
-John