Project el cheapo KA-T

Post by **Bwana** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 1:24 pm

To preface this chronicle, I'd like to clear up the reason of why.

Answer: I recently scored a smoking deal on a complete RB25 swap.

Mmmkay. With that out of the way, on to the project itself.

Project vehicle: My bone stock '89 SOHC coupe. with 248,xxx mi on it.

The plan: Turbo the KA using mostly random parts I have laying around and spend less than $200 doing it. Hopefully have it run for a week or so .

The initial progress:

A buddy of mine had a spare KAe exhaust manifold laying around, so this is what we've done to it. It's not finished only because I decided to order a set of T2 flanges off eghey instead of making my own. As soon as the flanges come in I'll put everything together and tig it properly.

The unlikely hero of the story:

Yes, that's a stock CA t25. About the smallest turbo evar . Oh well, it's what I have. Unless one of my local buddies decides to donate a spare t28 he has laying around...

I have the oil lines on order, a 8:1 FMU borrowed, a walbro on the way, and a couple other random parts to gather up. I'll be borrowing an old sidemount i/c from another buddy and using pvc pipe (save time and $$$) for the intercooler piping.

Post by **eds13** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 1:49 pm

um... thats some serious ghetto riggin. have fun

Post by **Florida240sx** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 2:02 pm

must have vid

Post by **WDRacing** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:24 pm

Great project man. I LOVE a serious DIY setup, and yours is basically the epitome of DIY. The CA is tiny, but for low boost it will be a fun daily driver. Probably get you close to 200WHP for extremely cheap. Do keep us posted.

WD

Post by **TheOne** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:43 pm

i wish i had turbos and parts layin around:(, all i have is a block & crank & 2 messed up cylinder heads,lol.

sounds like a nice build up though, for the price!

Post by **sil80drifter** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:26 am

That poor SOHC manifold looks frikkin raped and mutated. Kind of like a torn up a**hole.But 200whp! probably worth trying =]

sil80

Post by **boznuttz** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:50 am

Lol! Keep us upadated!

Post by **redtop91** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:53 am

This thread is like watching a fight. Someone should stop it but it is too damn entertaining.

Post by **S13FX** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:03 am

No way man I think this project is fwakin awesome. People spend so much effort to get 200rwhp NA, and here he will get it under 500 dollars, small turbo so no lag. This car will be fwakin awesome daily driver. And best of all the parts his using are really cheap to get too.

Keep us posted homey.

Post by **Chezedik** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:55 am

You need to bake the mani before you weld it. That will make it stronger.

I am excited to see this old girl. I would use a smaller FMU if you can help it though. 8:1 may be a bit much for a t25. Although, I understand the point is affordability. You probably could skip the intercooler altogether with an 8:1 FMU.

Good luck - you must post video!

Post by **eazye2000** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:03 pm

sil80drifter wrote:That poor SOHC manifold looks frikkin raped and mutated. Kind of like a torn up a**hole.

sil80

I'm gonna second that thought. But it can't be as bad as my Ford 4.9 I-6 with a T4 Blow Through Carburated setup i botched back in the day. I'll have to dig up pics..

This thread is gonna be teh sechs!!

Post by **Edub1** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:42 pm

PVC pipe will melt.

Post by **redtop91** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:47 pm

What if is not directly connected to the turbo?

Post by **Edub1** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:51 pm

PVC might work after an intercooler but not before. Your compressed air will be far too hot and it will melt straight away.

Post by **WDRacing** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:56 pm

Aslong as it's not directly attached it will be fine on both sides of the IC. I suggest either long silicone hose or use a jbend for the initial output from the compressor. I've done it before, it works, ugly but effective.

WD

Post by **Florida240sx** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:56 pm

Get a length of highstrength hose. Think the one we got is for sewer lines. Very thick walls. Has a wire inside of it.

Post by **S13psi** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:57 pm

ghetto lovin'el Cheapo Bandito!

Post by **Chezedik** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:27 pm

Is the plan to run this until it blows, because I have to say, that could be a while if you are taking all of the appropriate steps, which it seems like you are. Do you have the SR piping for the sidemount, if you do, you are made in the shade.

Post by **redtop91** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:29 pm

I'd like to see how long this lasts. There is a SOHC down the street that I'd like to pick up and eff with.

Post by **Bwana** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:31 pm

The FMU I have is actually adjustable (in some way, it's a buddy's and I've never seen one like it before). I have a front mount that came with the RB, complete w/ piping (for the RB) so I may just throw that in there and figure out a way to make stuff line up. IF it doesn't blow (that's not really the goal, just considered the likely result) I'll drive it until I have the RB fully prepped to drop in. At that point, if everything is still in good shape I'll put the mani/turbo/downpipe/oil lines up for sale for a couple hundred bucks and someone else can enjoy a cheap KAeT .

Post by **Bwana** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:32 pm

Chezedik wrote:You need to bake the mani before you weld it. That will make it stronger.

I've been pre heating it with my torch before welding, which is working fine. After I get it all together I'll clean everything up with the tig too.

Post by **Chezedik** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:34 pm

It will not blow if you correctly set the FMU. I would love an adjustable unit, but no one knows the level of adjustability. I may just make one adjustable. It would be pretty easy to do.

Post by **Brandon93240** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:05 am

I don't want to know why you know what a torn up a**hole looks like, nor do I think anyone else does either. Did you do some time in prison or something?

Post by **Chezedik** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:51 am

This is where the post-whores hang out!

Post by **NismoBgt** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:30 am

DaAMMM that is like putting the TOW back in'2 GehTOw

Post by **WDRacing** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:56 am

Technically they're all adjustable because you can swap out the diaphrams. I would definitly apply some pressure via a brake bleeder kit or somthing and see how much the pressure goes up.

With that setup and a 8:1 ish fmu you'll probably be able to run for ALONG time with no issues at all.

Whats the internal WG set to on the T25? 7-8 psi IIRC...just enough to not need any timing retard.

WD

Post by **redtop91** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:03 am

It is supposed to be 7-8 but on the SR T25 it is more like 10. Ionno about the CA's.

Post by **ghx407** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:18 am

eazye2000 wrote:

I'm gonna second that thought. But it can't be as bad as my Ford 4.9 I-6 with a T4 Blow Through Carburated setup i botched back in the day. I'll have to dig up pics..

This thread is gonna be teh sechs!!

nkin

That's funny, my brother and I were just thinking about turbocharging my dad's '86 F-150 I-6 to see how long it'll hold. It just doesn't seem to die...

Post by **Chezedik** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:40 am

Some FMUs have an adjustment on the top by the vac line, it limits the vacuum going in and affects the ratio of boost to fuel. Fully open it is probably something like a 12:1 and closed is 2:1 or so.

Post by **Bwana** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:45 am

Chezedik wrote:Some FMUs have an adjustment on the top by the vac line, it limits the vacuum going in and affects the ratio of boost to fuel. Fully open it is probably something like a 12:1 and closed is 2:1 or so.

That's exactly what this one's like. I got the FMIC mounted today. If I end up with tomorrow off too, and my flanges and lines come in we'll be boostin' soon! I also scored a r33 crossmember for the rb swap, it was the one thing I was missing. $50 and local FTW!

Project el cheapo KA-T - * FRESHLY UPDATED WITH INTERNAL ENGINE PICS *

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