pretty lousy powerband,
Re: (KATwo40)
yes i did in fact check it. and as like my last post, that is not my problem. i checked it as soon as you mentioned it in your early posts.
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rsmithdrift
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 2:18 pm
- Car: 1993 240sx fastback se.
Re: (KATwo40)
Wait, WTF???KATwo40 wrote:OMG I forgot one of the simplest things...have you verified that the swirl control valve actuator is operating correctly? If it's sticking open, you'll get really crappy low end power.
If it's so simple, why do I have no idea what you're talking about??? Maybe my car is loosing out on low end, cause it sure does suck untill 2500.
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DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
ha, these are jsut the butteryfly valves. i've run without the line hooked up for diagnostics, but i can tell you that power loss is EVERYWHERE.
my car sucks until 2500 too. im sure it has something to do with the nature of the KA. however, my cam timing might be ridicuous.
since this thread isnt about a CTS or MAF i really cant see any other solution to this than a guy jsut realized how slow his car really is. but if it really is that slow, maybe your knock sensor is just backing timing off that much, or youre running in safe mode for some reason.
my car sucks until 2500 too. im sure it has something to do with the nature of the KA. however, my cam timing might be ridicuous.
since this thread isnt about a CTS or MAF i really cant see any other solution to this than a guy jsut realized how slow his car really is. but if it really is that slow, maybe your knock sensor is just backing timing off that much, or youre running in safe mode for some reason.
Re: (DjPantsSpecR)
at this point im lost, KAT and jookamasta i am open to your last suggestions, but am also completely lost, what all do i have to do?
and as of this weekend, she is running even slower/ starting to idle rough after she is warmed up (like sitting at a light, and low rpm acceleration.) i replaced my plugs and wires nearly a week ago, the #3 cyl plug looked discolored, white on the tip...burning hot perhaps? when i was sitting at a light yesterday (a warm 87 degrees outside temp) it felt like that cyl was dieseling for a brief time, i had to rev it a bit because it came close to stalling.
but with 193k miles on the clock, i guess inside i knew this was inevitable.
and as of this weekend, she is running even slower/ starting to idle rough after she is warmed up (like sitting at a light, and low rpm acceleration.) i replaced my plugs and wires nearly a week ago, the #3 cyl plug looked discolored, white on the tip...burning hot perhaps? when i was sitting at a light yesterday (a warm 87 degrees outside temp) it felt like that cyl was dieseling for a brief time, i had to rev it a bit because it came close to stalling.
but with 193k miles on the clock, i guess inside i knew this was inevitable.
I ran my engine up to a little over 200k miles, with the last 50k being under boost. I also experienced choppy idle from time to time, despite cleaning the IACV and AAC unit.
At this point, with so many miles on your engine, it could be a combination of things, such as clogged PCV valve (VERY hard to get to while the intake manifold is on), worn out rings, leaking injector O-rings (which will also give some driveability issues) and the list goes on.
Your next step might be a compression test, just for kicks and laughs. You might find that all four are just down pretty far and that's that.
As for the color on your plug, it's tough to tell without seeing the plug. Perhaps you could post a photo of it?
Hope we can help you out with it, or at least find the cause.
At this point, with so many miles on your engine, it could be a combination of things, such as clogged PCV valve (VERY hard to get to while the intake manifold is on), worn out rings, leaking injector O-rings (which will also give some driveability issues) and the list goes on.
Your next step might be a compression test, just for kicks and laughs. You might find that all four are just down pretty far and that's that.
As for the color on your plug, it's tough to tell without seeing the plug. Perhaps you could post a photo of it?
Hope we can help you out with it, or at least find the cause.
Re: (KATwo40)
well i trashed my old plugs unfortunatley, the best i could describe would be from the threads, those were normal looking. from the electrode to the lil metal tip itself both were almost identical white to the background of this forum, i should have checked to see if that whiteness scratched off with a wire brush, but at the time i wasnt thinking about it.
Usually, if it's a crusty/flaky substance, you're seeing burnt oil deposits. This is indicative of leaking valve stem seals.
I used to get this on the #3 cylinder the most, and sometimes on #2 and #4, but not nearly as bad. The engine was just worn out and the valve stem seals were VERY leaky.
Of course, I didn't realize how leaky until I pulled the manifolds off with the engine out of the car.
I used to get this on the #3 cylinder the most, and sometimes on #2 and #4, but not nearly as bad. The engine was just worn out and the valve stem seals were VERY leaky.
Of course, I didn't realize how leaky until I pulled the manifolds off with the engine out of the car.
Re: (KATwo40)
it didnt seem to be flaky of anything, although i know it leaks oil on 3 on the cylinders cuz when i pulled the old wires out they were lightly oiled on the tip, the #3 being the worst.
That'll definitely cause some driveability issues. The oil soaks the plug wire, then creates random misfiring or low spark on the plug. Also, the oil seeps down around the ground (threaded portion) on the plug and, regardless of what some might believe, into the plug itself! It gets in through the seam at the ground and porcelain.
The good news...it's an EASY fix! Just order a new valve cover gasket set (be sure to ask if it includes the sparkplug tube seals) and rock on with it.
Don't use any RTV, just pope the gasket into the groove, stick the plug tube rings (rubber O-ring set) onto the bottom of the tubes on the cover, then bolt it down.
That'll probably help ya' out. If it doesn't, at least you'll have repaired a pesky leak.
The good news...it's an EASY fix! Just order a new valve cover gasket set (be sure to ask if it includes the sparkplug tube seals) and rock on with it.
Don't use any RTV, just pope the gasket into the groove, stick the plug tube rings (rubber O-ring set) onto the bottom of the tubes on the cover, then bolt it down.
That'll probably help ya' out. If it doesn't, at least you'll have repaired a pesky leak.
Re: (KATwo40)
looks like i'll be making a trip to the parts store tomorrow hopefully this will be the fix to my old dinosaur of a 240.