plenum bolts torque specs *help ASAP*

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SteveTheTech
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Installation of Intake Manifold Collector (Upper) If stud bolts were removed, install them and tighten to the torque specified below. Shank length under bolt head varies with bolt location. Installbolts while referring to numbers shown below and in figure. (Boltlength does not include pilot portion.) Tighten in numerical order as shown in the figure.: 4.9 - 6.9 N·m (0.5 - 0.7 kg-m, 44 - 61 in-lb)M6 Nut : 12, 17M6 × 25 mm (0.98 in) : 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18M6 × 45 mm (1.77 in) : 2, 4, 5M6 × 60 mm (2.36 in) : 1, 3, 6, 9

If you have access to a scanner check your upstream O2 sensors. Here is some info on what they should be.

Specification data are reference values.MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATIONHO2S1 (B1)HO2S1 (B2) Engine: After warming up Maintaining engine speed at 2,000rpm0 - 0.3V ←→Approx. 0.6 -1.0VHO2S1 MNTR (B1)HO2S1 MNTR (B2) Engine: After warming up Maintaining engine speed at 2,000rpmLEAN ←→RICHChanges more than 5 timesduring 10 seconds.

Definitely sounds like a lean miss to me. Is your CEL on. If the TB is disconnected and the Idle Learn is not performed it may cause that but it would be accompanied by a CEL for a P0506.


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SteveTheTech
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toddnos wrote:ok, but the MAF was fine pre blox spacer AFAIK

pinched oil filler rubber:yep, that was my first thought, and turned out it was pinched in there. fixed that..still problem. also found that i had the stock gasket folded under...fixed that..still the stall problem.

im going to dissasemble and remove the stock metal gasket as described in the motordyne instruction as an option. and retorque in the progressive method as described.

anyone know a difintive way to check vacuum?there seems to be a plugged access port to the plenum.
Got pics? maybe one of us can see whats up.

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Beancooker
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All you need for the Plenum questions is here: zerothread/274245

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toddnos
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SteveTheTech wrote:
Installation of Intake Manifold Collector (Upper) If stud bolts were removed, install them and tighten to the torque specified below. Shank length under bolt head varies with bolt location. Installbolts while referring to numbers shown below and in figure. (Boltlength does not include pilot portion.) Tighten in numerical order as shown in the figure.: 4.9 - 6.9 N·m (0.5 - 0.7 kg-m, 44 - 61 in-lb)M6 Nut : 12, 17M6 × 25 mm (0.98 in) : 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18M6 × 45 mm (1.77 in) : 2, 4, 5M6 × 60 mm (2.36 in) : 1, 3, 6, 9

If you have access to a scanner check your upstream O2 sensors. Here is some info on what they should be.

Specification data are reference values.MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATIONHO2S1 (B1)HO2S1 (B2) Engine: After warming up Maintaining engine speed at 2,000rpm0 - 0.3V ←→Approx. 0.6 -1.0VHO2S1 MNTR (B1)HO2S1 MNTR (B2) Engine: After warming up Maintaining engine speed at 2,000rpmLEAN ←→RICHChanges more than 5 timesduring 10 seconds.

Definitely sounds like a lean miss to me. Is your CEL on. If the TB is disconnected and the Idle Learn is not performed it may cause that but it would be accompanied by a CEL for a P0506.
no CEL.

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toddnos
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Beancooker wrote:All you need for the Plenum questions is here: zerothread/274245
sorry, that dosent quite cover MY issue.although i used your thread to install my plenum spacer.

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toddnos
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Sentientbydesign wrote:
I would, but your email is hidden lol.

Just click my S/N and email me. I check all day long. I probably won't get out of work until 5:00-5:30. I'm over at UCR.

You got a gf/wife? Maybe I can bring mine along and they can compare notes about their "Nico-Freaks" hahaha.

Sorry, but you can't have my MAF. The last thing I want is two dead Gs.
btw im in moval too.no GF at the moment,, so that plan wont work..lolim home early from work, and letting the g cool down. i am going to follow the motordyne instruction manual to a tee. it is very specific. also removing the RTV because it obviously didnt help... then reset the ecu/TB.i will email you later and let you know how its going.

thanks again fellas for all the replies today.

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toddnos wrote:btw im in moval too.
You're a bigger liar than me (Says Riverside in my profile lol).

Ya email me and let me know if you want some help. I got the ecu and throttle release learning done in about 3 mins on the first try.

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toddnos
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Sentientbydesign wrote:
You're a bigger liar than me (Says Riverside in my profile lol).

Ya email me and let me know if you want some help. I got the ecu and throttle release learning done in about 3 mins on the first try.
thanks dude, and if i can get this solved i might have you bring me a grounding kit too...

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That can be arranged. I've got blue and gray wire available. I can probably have one ready by tonight if you give me the heads up (including which color).

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toddnos
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well, i think i found the issue.the upper plenum is cracked.i assume i over torqued it.

so...i guess i need to order a upper plenum.will the kinetix v2 upper work with the blox spacer, or do i need to sell it?

this sux, i have been known to over wrench in the past, and i did it again.

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I'm still leary about Kinetix. They're new plenums are supposed to be significantly stronger than the old ones, but the power gains are not as peachy as they say.

Want me to help you do a temporary fix on the plenum? If not, I would suggest checking out a pick a part or I can call my buddy who works at Infiniti to see if they have any laying around lol.

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toddnos
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or maybe a salvage yard will have a factory upper?

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toddnos
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Sentientbydesign wrote:I'm still leary about Kinetix. They're new plenums are supposed to be significantly stronger than the old ones, but the power gains are not as peachy as they say.

Want me to help you do a temporary fix on the plenum? If not, I would suggest checking out a pick a part or I can call my buddy who works at Infiniti to see if they have any laying around lol.
what kind of fix...like JB weld?

id be interested in a stock upper if you could locate one...

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JB Weld or something similar was what I was thinking. I also have composite expoxy at home (think Carbon Fiber and Fiberglass).

You could also take it to a welder who does aluminum work.

I'll contact my buddy.

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toddnos
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i
Sentientbydesign wrote:JB Weld or something similar was what I was thinking. I also have composite expoxy at home (think Carbon Fiber and Fiberglass).

You could also take it to a welder who does aluminum work.

I'll contact my buddy.
willing to try anything. i think im going to go look for some JB weld now. It is cracked right on the front left tab of the mani...i wonder if i can fix without removing the plenum again

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Email me if you want help.

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Holy crap that doesn't sounds like a good idea.

How are you going to remove it if you seal it shut?

Try using carb cleaner or a flammable spray around the plenum before sealing it shut. While the engine idling and see if the idle changes when you hit a certain area.


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toddnos
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SteveTheTech wrote:Holy crap that doesn't sounds like a good idea.

How are you going to remove it if you seal it shut?

Try using carb cleaner or a flammable spray around the plenum before sealing it shut. While the engine idling and see if the idle changes when you hit a certain area.
its not going to be sealed shut. it is cracked around one of the front bolt tabs. i jb welded it...i am gonna try the carb cleaner trick to see if it is seal at the crack....thats a good one!

man this has turned into a nightmare.leave it to me to do something like this....sheesh

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Buy a Kinetics SSV. It's cool looking and it does work. I have one.

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As I said in my first post... INCH LBS. Sorry you had to learn this the hard way. I can't believe blox doesn't include directions with their product. How do they expect people to install it correctly.

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toddnos
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yep, i learned the hard way. a cracked upper plenum is about as bad as it gets. the JB weld dosent prevent the stall issue, and im sure the whole plenum is tweaked from over torque.

So, to ease my mind, i ordered the kinetix v2 upper plenum for 299.

@Nate, do you have a spacer on your car?


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Brent,

You might want to try another plenum cover before just randomly ordering an aftermarket one.

I have a blox spacer, but thanks for thinking about me.

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Satter66 wrote:Buy a Kinetics SSV. It's cool looking and it does work. I have one.


I wouldn't mess around with partial fixes with JB Weld...The Kinetics is probably cheaper than a new OEM one.

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My concern is that Kinetix has gotten a few bad review for a couple of reasons that stem from the same problem <-oxymoronish?

Their original composite plenums fluxuated in size as they heated up and cooled down making it nearly impossible to keep them torqued properly. This led to codes being thrown for lean and vacuum leak conditions.

The SSV is supposedly made of very thin stainless steal and also flexes. Not a good thing for a plenum to do.

I've read that the SSV only shows real gains for FI applications and can actually show losses for NA.

Again, this is all hear say, but it's worth worrying about.

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toddnos
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@nate, i was gonna give the blox to you for your help, if you wanted it, it may be thrashed though...as for ordering the kenetix, its already done, ordered, and paid for. I hope the newer version dosent have the same problems as the older one. I like that it has no middle six bolts to deal with giving the underside a better undisturbed flow to the cylinders.

i should recieve it by the weekend i hope. until then, im driving around with a cracked, tweaked upper plenum....although the car runs fine, it still stalls on warm restarts.

can anyone chime in that has the kenetix upper?

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toddnos
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i think i read that teflon has the black top kenetix.

wonder how he likes it?

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Go Email him. His email should be in his profile.

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toddnos wrote:i think i read that teflon has the black top kenetix.

wonder how he likes it?
I have had no problems with the Kinetix plenum I own. The install takes an hour or less. Specially if you already have plenum experience. **Cough**

You can definitely feel the difference in Temperature. It cools faster and doesn't get as hot as the stock aluminum one.

My only complaint is that it looks kinda plain IMO. I'm thinking of painting it. Maybe just tape around the words and paint those a different color. Just ideas. Probably wont get around to doing it.


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toddnos
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TeflonG35 wrote:
I have had no problems with the Kinetix plenum I own. The install takes an hour or less. Specially if you already have plenum experience. **Cough**

You can definitely feel the difference in Temperature. It cools faster and doesn't get as hot as the stock aluminum one.

My only complaint is that it looks kinda plain IMO. I'm thinking of painting it. Maybe just tape around the words and paint those a different color. Just ideas. Probably wont get around to doing it.
lol, and i do have the experience now.. thanks for the pic and reply!i wonder how much different the powerband is compared to this blox spacer. the blox seems to kick in suddenly around 3500 rpm..does the keneix feal like that, or more punchy off idle?

how does the TB mount to the kenetix?does it come with a gasket to mount to the lower plenum, or is the stock gasket used?

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The kinetix upper plenum connects to the TB. IT comes with new gasket and new hardware. Also it is like a cork material on the plenum that makes a nice seal as well.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the bolts. It will crack the composite material on the kinetix plenum.


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