I'll start this post by asking you NOT to tell me to use the search button. I've been doing that for about a week. I know there are a TON of articles about putting a turbo on a stock truck and I know somebody is going to tell me to use the search button. I did. I've been searching for days. I've mostly used google search to try and get specific answers. No joy. So I logged intoday and started searching via the site search feature. Still can't find wjhat I'm after.

Can anybody give me a parts list to put a basic turbo on a stock KA24E? Not looking for huge HP gains. Not looking to drag race. This is a daily driver truck and I just want a little more HP. Would like to stick with a very basic setup to keep costs in check and also to keep it as simple and reliable as possible. I'm not looking to dump 10psi of boost down the throat of this engine and rebuild it three times a year.

I have a 1994 Hardbody pickup. It's 4x4 standard cab with XE trim package. 5/spd manual trans. My engine blew a head gasket at 185k and it also needed a clutch kit. I wasn't too upset, because thats a lot of miles on the factory original clutch and the motor was good to me for all those miles. I bought a wrecked 1993 truck with only 64k miles and swapped the entire motor, transmission and transfer case. Put a new clutch in while it was all out of the vehicle. Engine idles with 18-20psi oil pressure using 5w30 Havoline oil. Highway oil pressure (3000rpm or more) is 65-67psi -- I know because I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge when I installed the new/used motor. Overall, it's been a good motor. The swap wasn't easy, but I got it done and she fired right up after replacing a temp coolant sensor.

I did check the cylinder compression before removing the engine from the wrecked donor truck. This was with the engine at normal operating temperature. I had:
#1 - 178psi
#2 - 175psi
#3 - 176psi
#4 - 175psi

Checked it again when it was cold and had been sitting for about a week. Generally was about 10-12psi lower on each cylinder.

I replaced the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, rotor, cap, battery, air filter, oil filter and fuel filter at the time of the swap.

I'm looking for more power because we recently bought a small boat and the little D21 is struggling a bit when going up hills. I have to drop down to 3rd gear and wind the crap out of it to maintain 55mph on the highway if we come to a hill.

I have no idea what a T3 turbo is. I have no idea what a SAFC is. You might as well call it a 'switzelfart' valve, because I have no idea where to get the best wastegate or even what brand to buy. I have no idea what intercooler to use or where to get any of these parts. I'm not like you guys -- I am not addicted to modding my truck. It's just your basic 17yr old 4x4 truck that I drive back and forth to work daily. I change the fluids and take pretty good care of it. When you guys start talking techno stuff, I just get lost because this isn't my hobby. I shoot guns and hunt with my kids. I fish a lot and I fly airplanes. My truck is just transportation. But it needs a few more HP now that we got the boat. Can ya help a regular guy out?

Can I just get a basic parts list for this project?
Turbo
intercooler
ignition system or chip
exhaust
intake
sensors
spark plugs, wires, cap rotor

Anything else you know I would need?

Thanks

Edited to fix a few typos

LOL. Can somebody please make that his custom title.......... switzelfart


JGS.

http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html
There's your manifold, down pipe, and lines.


Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... Categories
there's your intercooler. You can also find your exhaust on there.

Thank you!! That will get me started.

How about a fuel pump and injectors? Do I need a new ECU or can I just do the 'piggyback' thing everybody talks about?

What is the piggyback and where do I get one?

you can get a walbro 255lph fuel pump for an SR20DET. The pump is a direct fit with a new connector. You'll take out the sending unit, take off the old pump, put the walbro on with the new connector, and put the sender back in.

You can use any adjustable fuel presure regulator. You'll just need to get an adapter that fits the stock rail. Nismo has FPRs and you can use the adapter for the SR20 on the KA24E with "minor" modifications. You'll need top feed injectors. I'm not gonna say a size cause I don't know. Just be cautious, some injectors are high impedance and others are low. I think the KA24E has high and if you use low you'll need to get injector resistors.

I wish someone else more knowledgeable would chime in here as I'm not the bast source of info.

I don't have much direct experience with a single cam but the basics are pretty much the same with single or dual. That JGS manifold is nice, a little pricey, but may be the only option as I don't know how readily available single cam manifolds are. Ideally for your setup (low boost <8lbs) a used t28 would work perfect and could be had for around $150, sometimes cheaper, but raises the issue of water cooling. I do not know what size the top feed injectors are for the single slammer but you may have some room to raise power with something as simple as a FMU. Basically a fuel regulator that increases fuel pressure when boost pressure raises (works off vacuum lines) would be safe to 8-9lbs. Not sure what would be a good larger injector, with a dual cam SR 370cc injectors work perfect for these types of setups but they are side feed injectors and will not work with a single cam. Find your manifold, than your turbo. Then figure out what are your injector options are. IC kits from ebay seem to work fine, might even be able to use a SR side mount.

Hello there! The stock injectors are about 260cc so they will max out 190hp or so. Depending on exactly how much power you are trying to get to, you may or may not have to get bigger injectors to flow more fuel. Here is a link that you can use to source used injectors.

injector-spread-sheet-t109492.html

The stock fuel injectors are high impedance. As stated previously, if you use high impedance injectors you will not need resistors. If you get low impedance injectors you will need resistors. To make it easy on yourself try to source high impedance or upgraded injectors made specifically for the ka24e.

In addition to the exhaust and intake plumbing you will need oil lines for your turbo. One line to feed the oil through the top of the turbo (usually T-ed off from the oil pressure port near the oil filter) and another to drain the oil out the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan ( a bung will have to be welded in your oil pan to receive the oil line).

Lastly, the different flanges that people use (T2, T3, T4) are just different sizes for the turbo to bolt up to just like bolt sizes or anything else. If you are going to use a T3 flanged turbo ( which I would highly recommend) you will need a t3 flanged manifold. (I also have two spare t3 flanged turbos if you are interested).

Just found this thread a few down from yours that has a lot of valuable information. Scroll down to bottom and see the post by "wa-chiss".

sohc-noob-help-t545948.html

I hope that this helps you with your build and that I have not said anything to insult your intelligence as that was not my intention.

Welcome to Nico!

The JGS turbo kit is exactly what you'll need. You'll need to piece together a front mount intercooler and piping, ebay will be the best place for those parts. Summit Racing has a new 255LPH pump for sale online, cheaper then the competition.

The KA24E already has lower compression, so I doubt you'll need to retard the timing much, but it can"t hurt. I'd retard the base timing 2 degree's at the dizzy. Easiest cheapest method.

For fuel, I'd use a 6:1 Vortech FMU. This will increase your fuel pressure 6 psi for every 1 psi of boost. Cheap, requires no tuning and it's very reliable for a low boost setup. I wouldn't use the FMU if you're plans go beyond 10 psi. I also wouldn't run more then 8 psi of boost without some additional method to retard the ignition timing while on boost.

I'm not sure if the turbo JGS sells comes with a .48 AR exhaust housing option, but that's the one I'd use if available. The other usual housing option is a .63 AR. The bigger the number the more exhaust flow you'll have, but the turbo lag increases. Since your only planning on low boost, you'll want to select a turbo that has the least amount of lag. Turbo sizing seems complex, but we've pretty much been there done that with all of the various options. So any questions can be answered pretty quickly.

Anyway, you're in the right place. I love new projects and we don't have nearly enough boosted Hard Bodies on the road.

WD