Paratrooper's build thread (pic intensive)

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raremotive
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A Paratroopers 300zx wrote: Well, I hope within the next few months or so. Still needs a lot of work. I want to get the proper break-in mileage done before this next Winter hits.
What's game plan for break in?


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Nice build!

Thanks for serving out country :patriot:

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ztommyx
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Rare_f8 wrote:
A Paratroopers 300zx wrote: Well, I hope within the next few months or so. Still needs a lot of work. I want to get the proper break-in mileage done before this next Winter hits.
What's game plan for break in?

i heard you drive it like you stole it...

but then again, i also hear the opposite.

debate time.

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tg
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heh, break it in on the dyno... best and safest way.

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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tg wrote:heh, break it in on the dyno... best and safest way.
Problem is: finding a good dyno here in Utah. I have heard a few different opinions on break-in procedures as well. I think I may drive it softly with near stock boost for 800 or so miles with oil changes every 200. Anyone care to disagree? I am open to all suggestions, because I have never broken in a brand new motor.

NismoJ30
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A Paratroopers 300zx wrote:
tg wrote:heh, break it in on the dyno... best and safest way.
Problem is: finding a good dyno here in Utah. I have heard a few different opinions on break-in procedures as well. I think I may drive it softly with near stock boost for 800 or so miles with oil changes every 200. Anyone care to disagree? I am open to all suggestions, because I have never broken in a brand new motor.
It's really crazy what you can hear... some say idle for 20 mins change the oil and drive calm for 200 then your all set because it really doesnt take that long for the rings and bearings to seat. Some go for the $1000 and let the engine "brake" itself alot for the rings and bearings to seat itself. On Horsepower tv they run the engine for 20 mins on the dyno at 2k and they they go straight to redline after. It's all a toss up

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SarahLovesHer300zx
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i dont remember what my dad did to break in his crate motor on his 74 LuvShack, but i google'd it and found this.. it makes sense

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Gives Dyno, Street, and Racetrack break in procedures

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raremotive
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A Paratroopers 300zx wrote:
tg wrote:heh, break it in on the dyno... best and safest way.
Problem is: finding a good dyno here in Utah. I have heard a few different opinions on break-in procedures as well. I think I may drive it softly with near stock boost for 800 or so miles with oil changes every 200. Anyone care to disagree? I am open to all suggestions, because I have never broken in a brand new motor.
The only thing in your engine that you are breaking in.. is your rings. And it doesn't take long to do it. Improper seal will cause blow by that contaminate your oil and you will be lost of some power. Also without blow-by your engine runs cooler and efficiently.

It's generally recommended to drive your engine up mid to high varying your rpms, you should be accelerating constantly or decelerating constantly. This allows the the mean effective pressure to act on your rings and force them into the cylinder walls. This will cause the break in. Downshifting is very important, it allows enough suction in the cylinder to remove the glazing material shaving off by the rings.

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As you see in the picture. An improper break-in is either the peaks never get shaven down to a flat, the idea of the flat spot is to provide bearing surface and the valleys to retain oil to keep the bearing surfaces lubed. If the peak doesn't get shaven down, the valleys retain too much oil for the surface. The other is glazing when the peaks are rolled into the valley due to improper break in. Break in should be quick and swift ring action on the walls. You can start slow like up to upper mid rpm range for the first 40 miles, but after you mustn't be afraid to touch the redline. And remember to downshift as much as you up shift.
Last edited by raremotive on Wed May 19, 2010 6:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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legion
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Rare_f8 wrote: You can start slow like half rpm range for the first 40 miles, but after you mustn't be afraid to touch the redline. And remember to downshift as much as you up shift.
Sounds like the break-in process will be pretty fun ;)

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tg
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A Paratroopers 300zx wrote:
tg wrote:heh, break it in on the dyno... best and safest way.
Problem is: finding a good dyno here in Utah. I have heard a few different opinions on break-in procedures as well. I think I may drive it softly with near stock boost for 800 or so miles with oil changes every 200. Anyone care to disagree? I am open to all suggestions, because I have never broken in a brand new motor.
seriously, find a dyno guy :\ You'r egoing to have to dyno the car after anyways to get it tuned properly... I would recommend finding one who can do both.

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raremotive
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Yeah, I agree with TG. Rolling without a proper tune is uncool.

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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Rare_f8... That's very good info, thank you! I knew the basics of that, but hadn't gone into that much detail. And of course I'll properly tune it. I just don't see how people run their set ups without tuning.

Sarah... That was some decent info as well, thank you!

I will try to find a dyno locally... Tommy, do you know of any here? In the event that I can't... I will do a street break-in and tune it soon after.

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SarahLovesHer300zx
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Wasnt the best info, i know.. but havent done a break in (yet).. :biggrin: ..you are very welcome sir, and i thank you for your service to our country! :mike

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tg
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damn i wrote out a big reply but I guess I didn't hit post :\

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I did to but mine didnt either :(

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ztommyx
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A Paratroopers 300zx wrote:
I will try to find a dyno locally... Tommy, do you know of any here? In the event that I can't... I will do a street break-in and tune it soon after.
i might know a couple, maybe three.

COBB has one out at Miller's?
there's one in orem... turbo lab racing or something...
the other one i forgot the name but (in salt lake) should know by the time you are finish w/ your project :)

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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ztommyx wrote:i might know a couple, maybe three.

COBB has one out at Miller's?
there's one in orem... turbo lab racing or something...
the other one i forgot the name but (in salt lake) should know by the time you are finish w/ your project :)
Sweet thanks man! Oh also, do you happen to have any knowledge on this: vtc-solenoid-question-t494404.html

I thought you might because you just put the JUN cam gears in your z. Which is damn sexy in person by the way haha

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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*UPDATE*

Heads are in and torqued on to spec. with Cometic MLS head gaskets (.060 thickness) and ARP L19 head studs. Heads have Z1 valve springs, bronze valve guides, HL-15 cams set to 270 degree duration with a .385 lift, silicone coolant hose couplers and a bit of porting and polishing. MSP manifolds are on.

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raremotive
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looks clean :)

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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*UPDATE*

The Z1 GT675RS turbos are on and torqued to spec. Very little clearance by the way.

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SarahLovesHer300zx
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oh boy oh boy oh boy!!!!

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tg
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woooot.

You have some 2.5" IC piping to go with those puppies?

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ztommyx
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looking good!

let me know when you are ready for a second eye...
i don't mind looking it over for you :wavey:

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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Here is an update... Sorry it has taken me a long time to update this. Installs have been delayed because of a set back with a few parts. Anyway here is what I have been acquiring for the past few months:

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legion
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Wow, very nice!! Looks like my build only on the next level of awesomness lol.
I recently received my new oil cooler and that thing is BEASTLY comparied to the little baby stocker one!

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DCaff300ZX
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Looking good man!

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ztommyx
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nice! you actually did the black/chrome cam gears
looks awesome :dblthumb:

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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Haha thanks legion. Yes the Z1 cooler dwarfs my stock one, it's ridiculous! And Tommy, Ya I went with the JUN set. Should look pretty sweet.

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Z-owned
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:dblthumb: Looks like it's almost there!

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congratulations, paratrooper.

beautiful build.

two questions, are those the arp l19's...i've heard you have to be careful because of moisture/corrosion, etc.

i got a set, also, and have to be careful in installing them.

also, are those dp's the expansion's or the split's?


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