OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Rally 240SX, by Finnish Fury Rallysport

[mRodiek]

ive got a question, how thick of sheet metal did u use to fix the rust in the floor board?

Im askin the same thing.

Were the peices you welded in overlapping the floorboards much? I have a couple holes I need to patch up too..

[IanS]

Im askin the same thing.

Were the peices you welded in overlapping the floorboards much? I have a couple holes I need to patch up too..

IIRC I used 16 gauge steel, which is actually quite a bit thicker than the factory floor pan, but its what I had laying around.

Because of the odd shape of the floor, I chose to overlap the new material slightly to make things easier for me, and stronger overall. Since its a floor pan, being pretty is unnecessary, so trying to properly butt fit it would have been a waste of my time.

I got the rest of the towers done, but I dont feel like posting the pictures tonight. Maybe tomorrow, its late.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

IIRC I used 16 gauge steel, which is actually quite a bit thicker than the factory floor pan, but its what I had laying around.

Because of the odd shape of the floor, I chose to overlap the new material slightly to make things easier for me, and stronger overall. Since its a floor pan, being pretty is unnecessary, so trying to properly butt fit it would have been a waste of my time.

I got the rest of the towers done, but I dont feel like posting the pictures tonight. Maybe tomorrow, its late.

I was about to say the SAME THING. All my replacement sheet metal has been 16 gage... which was thicker than factory. Thankfully, the majority of my repairs have been done in hidden places, where being nice and neat isn't 100% necessary.

[bllabong89]

I was also wondering if you by chance know what the best material would be to fix some exterior body panel rust. I used to work at a body shop as a detailer and they said i could take part of a door skin and that would work but i didnt know if there is a better solution or product to use

[IanS]

I was also wondering if you by chance know what the best material would be to fix some exterior body panel rust. I used to work at a body shop as a detailer and they said i could take part of a door skin and that would work but i didnt know if there is a better solution or product to use

Actually, thats pretty good advice, if you have a donor car. If not, just get weld steal of the same, or thicker gauge then whatever you are fixing. I have to head out and pick up a sheet of metal to fill the sunroof, I will let you know what I get.

[IanS]

Got the strut towers finished up.

Drivers side.









The passenger side.



Here you can see how contoured the tower tops are. It took a lot of work to get the thick plates to sit flush.



After lots of hammering.





Car is starting to look more like a tank every day.



Since I have a very large hole in my roof thats going to need to be sealed up here very soon. I decided it was time to learn how to weld in a body work setting. Thick overlapping plates are easy. Butt fitting is tougher. Instead of screwing up the roof, I decided to start work on the hatch, that way when I mess it up, the wing will cover it.

Good old hatch rust.





After a little time with the cutting wheel.



Thats all for tonight. I will keep working on the hatch later.

[J14cm7]

Man i need another project...thanks for keeping the posts going. Im learning alot

[bllabong89]

yea, thanks for the help on the floor pan steel. I pulled my carpet up to find this

[IanS]

yea, thanks for the help on the floor pan steel. I pulled my carpet up to find this

Hahaha, that is exactly what mine looked like when I pulled my carpet. It scared me at first, but now that its all done I feel very accomplished.

Sorry for no news on the rally car, the garage heater failed last week, and its cold out. Its getting fixed today (Xs fingers), so I should be able to get some work done.

[Speedy7_7]

the heater is replaced, good to go

[IanS]

**Update**

I would like to premise this whole post by saying bodywork sucks. Its something I have never really tried my hand at, and its been a learning experience. Trying to properly cut out and weld such thin metal is tough.

I left off with the hatch all cut up. I started out by cutting out a cardboard template for the whole on the passenger side.



Then I cut a matching piece out of 22 gauge steel.



Then I ground the edges of the holes.



Then I fit my replacement metal in place, and started tack welding from one corner making sure the metal was level with the parent material.



It really wasn't that hard until I got to where the hatch turns down.





Once I had tacks all the way up to the bend on both sides, I began working it down. Getting it to fit right was tedious, but I got it.



Then I started adding tacks in clockwise rotation so as not to overheat the metal, thereby warping it.



It took me a while to get the settings right. I really started to get my flow down, right as I finished.







Then I grabbed by trusty angle grinder, and went to town on the excess.



Its not perfect, but Im pretty pleased with myself considering it was my first try. With a little more work, it should be tough to tell anything was done.



With the first one done, I cut out another piece, and welded up the second hole. This one was a little tougher because it wasn't a straight rectangle. It turned out ok. I didnt get any pictures of it after grinding.





Instead of finishing the last hole, I decided to cut out the sunroof delete panel before calling it a night. If you guys haven't noticed, I like to bounce around, I blame the ADD.

If you remember, this is what the hole looks like.



I just layed a piece of cardboard on the roof, climed inside, then traced around the hole with a sharpee. Then I cut it out.



I picked up a sheet of 22 gauge steel specifically for this. Rally rules spec that any replacement roof metal must be of the same or thicker metal. I mic'ed out the roof at .87 mm, which just so happens to be 22 gauge.



I layed my template on the metal, and traced it out.





I started by cutting along the straight lines with a wiz wheel, then I worked around the corners with a pair of sheet metal shears.



Fits pretty good, but Im going to have to work it to make it fit the contour of the roof. I wish I had an english wheel.



I purposely left it a little big. I have not decided if I want to try and butt weld it, or if I should just leave a little overlap. I figure I can always cut more off later if I want to do it the hard way.



Thats all for tonight. I hope to get more done on Thursday. Thanks for looking.

[Razi]

Sweetness, good luck with the roof!

[IanS]

I didnt get any work done today, but I did do a little shopping, or should I say buying.

My friend Micah Wiitala owns Sisu Rally Sports based here in MN. When he heard I was building up a rally car, he called and said he had some nice second hand stuff for sale. He had lots of stuff, but right now the one thing I needed, were FIA spec seats. I cant really start painting the interior until I have seat rails mounted.

I picked up this clean set of Sparco Evo 2s for a great price, and they came with brackets too. All I had to do was clean them up a little.

[hbpignosePA]

looks sweet as usual ian;

wish i had the means to do my own bodywork

+1 for doing something different

[bllabong89]

I want that heater.lol. its cold here in MO and rainy. it sucks because its cold enough to snow but doesnt and then when it should snow, the temp goes up a few degrees and it turns to rain. f**k missouri. but anyways, how much is a heater like that?

[Speedy7_7]

the heater was listed at fleet farm (a local awesome store) for 359.99.

You can find them cheaper, and this is 175k BTU, i dont imagine you need that in Misery.

It is capable of heating 4250 sq. feet.

if you have a smaller garage you could get by with a 55k btu. You can find those for around $150 or less if you buy them used. I recommend getting one that can run on diesel. its just easier to get than kerosene, and a little cheaper.

[IanS]

Well, I didnt get nearly as much done tonight as I would have liked, but I did figure some stuff out.

I got the last large hole on the hatch welded up, just need to grind it, then fill the hole where the rear wiper used to be.

I brought one of the seats with me, so I reinstalled the dash support, dash and steering colum. Then I played around with posistions until I got an idea of what I wanted. I got what I needed to build the mounts, but decided sleep was more important. I will post the pictures tomorrow.

[J14cm7]

You should win some sort of award for this thread. Really good info and thanks again for the pictures.

[Ajax]

Ian, Are you working on the car on Saturday? I've got the day free and could head out there.

[IanS]

Ian, Are you working on the car on Saturday? I've got the day free and could head out there.

I should be out there, but I do work, so It may not be till later in the evening. I will give you a call if I get out there before 5 pm.

[gmac708]

looking good Ian

[NiceLyphe]

Wow very nice progress. lol i just read the whole thread and love every part of it. Nice to see something different go on.

[bersh240]

come on man. one week till sno drift.it gona be done in time for stpr?

[Speedy7_7]

come on man. one week till sno drift.it gona be done in time for stpr?

Bah, not you too. (this is Ian posting at Cale's.)

Ive been working most of the afternoon getting the co-driver seat mount built, I just came inside to check one of the regulations. Too bad Rally-America.com is down.

I will try and get a good update with pictures done tonight.

[breaker77]

that hole in the strut tower is suposted to be a dimple lol

but whatever

[IanS]

that hole in the strut tower is suposted to be a dimple lol

but whatever

There are, or were like 50 holes in the strut towers collectively. Im not sure which one you are talking about.

****UPDATE****

Time to build some seat mounts.

I decided to only bring one of the seats with me, so as to keep the other clean, and not in my way.

Apparently one of our cats claimed that very seat as her own.

I dragged the seat all the way across the living room to the door, and she still wouldnt get off.



I ended up having to turn the thing on its side to get her off.



First things first, I just set the seat in the car to see how much room I would have to play with.



And the obligitory picture of someone testing it out.



Before really digging in to the seat stuff, I wanted to finish up the hatch holes.









Ill leave the grinding for a day when there arent a bunch of people around. I dont want to waste all my earplugs.

Before I could mock the seats up, I had to re install some of the necessary interior.

Dash support bar first. No modification needed.



Apparently I failed to take any more pictures. It really wasn't that exciting I put the steering column back in, and the dash. I know you guys are going to want me dead for it, but I cut the ends off a perfect, crack free black dash. I almost felt wrong doing it, but it fits with the cage now.

I put the seat on the drivers side just for an idea of what I would have to do.



Things are a little tight. Guess thats what I get for being 6' 2".



Notice the wood supporting the back mount. The big hump in the floor for the cat really throws things off. I may have to look into removing or modifying it just so I can get the seat low enough so I dont bank my head on the cage.



The test fitting told me one thing for sure, the factory seat rail had to go.



Chris working on the drivers side.



I left the small piece on top of the tunnel.



Drivers side.



The hump in question.



On to building. I started by drilling holes in angle iron, and bolting the pieces to the seat.





Then I tacked a piece of square tube on to hold the shape.



Then I pulled the mount off the seat, so as to keep from burning it when I made sure they would never come apart.



While I welded, Chris, and Dave (Ajax) worked on some required grinding.







I added some square tube to help support the bolt hole.





The I welded some support plates onto the floor. I will weld the bracket to these to spread the load. I forgot to take pictures of just the plates, so here they are with the bracket on top.



Then I measured out, and cut some supports. Then I tacked them in place.





Back on the bench.



Then I added plates to the back side.





Then I welded the whole mess to the floor.





Bolted the seat rails back on.





Then I bolted the seat down.



Im pretty happy with the clearance this position allows to the roof brace. That is my biggest issue, I have to try to keep helmets away from the cage.





I had to go further forward than I wanted, just to get enough lean to keep the head low.



All in all, Im glad I did the co-driver side first. I learned a lot, and made some mistakes. The driver seat will be a lot tougher because position is more important, plus I have that hump to deal with.

Hopefully I can make some good progress later this week.

[nevertheless]

This car is ready for some rolls. I like your seats and fab skills.

[Didderson]

Amazing fab work in just those brackets alone. Still my fav. thread to watch because of all the metal work! Keep it up

[J14cm7]

Nice fab work. Keep up the good work.

[IanS]

Thanks for the kind words boys. Im going to have to step it up. I am going to try and get the car running and driving in time for the Nissan National Convention, in Omaha NE. It in June of this year, so I only have a few months left. Its time to buckle down.