Now she gets really hot!

[GreenQ45a]

SO in the last week I changed the following:

Belts, Alternator, Full Active Suspension Computer today the Fuel Pump, Water Pump.

Great results each time except the water pump.

You can't hear ther fuel pump anymore, The Active Suspension Works great,NO Charging issues!

She is getting really hot now!!!

She wont suck down any new coolant I know she dropped a Quart or two at the least.

Do you need to add it in the radiator is self instead of the reservoir???

I'm almost there.

[DominickJ30]

SO in the last week I changed the following:

Belts, Alternator, Full Active Suspension Computer today the Fuel Pump, Water Pump.

Great results each time except the water pump.

You can't hear ther fuel pump anymore, The Active Suspension Works great,NO Charging issues!

She is getting really hot now!!!

She wont suck down any new coolant I know she dropped a Quart or two at the least.

Do you need to add it in the radiator is self instead of the reservoir???

I'm almost there.

Add to through the radiator cap. The reservoir is merely an overflow tank.

[DAEDALUS]

Absolutely! There's a reason the fill caps are there. The system will only take coolant out of the bottle when coolant contracts and sucks it out. Having that much air in the system is very unhealthy. It won't have enough suction to draw in coolant and, much worse, the engine is much more prone to overheating.

[Q451990]

How hot are we talking? I would be very careful overheating your engine! Overheating badly, even once can destroy the motor.

Definately fill through the filler neck... (looks like a radiator cap, but located out from under all of the covers).

Heath

[maxnix]

How hot are we talking? I would be very careful overheating your engine! Overheating badly, even once can destroy the motor.

Definately fill through the filler neck... (looks like a radiator cap, but located out from under all of the covers).

Heath

Absolutely! Air pockets in heads means no coolant is contacting that surface and it is getting very hot and close to structural fatigue and failure.

[FarFetched]

That is why I will run Water Wetter when I get it. It is getting a bit warmer in Seattle so I better be safe that sorry

[GreenQ45a]

Absolutely! There's a reason the fill caps are there. The system will only take coolant out of the bottle when coolant contracts and sucks it out. Having that much air in the system is very unhealthy. It won't have enough suction to draw in coolant and, much worse, the engine is much more prone to overheating.

Thanks... Now the needle won't hardly move...Even with the A\C on high and sitting @ idle

Still need a Radiator\Coolant system flush.

[Q45tech]

With the Q head design [exit in the middle] WW only drops the head temperature [increases coolant temp at outflow] by 2-3F.......increased transfer efficiency.

20% AF in distilled water has the greater effect but every single degree is helpful and sometimes critical..........the reduced performance WHEN the ecu sees coolant above 194F at the head output.

Measuring the coolant temperature is a collorary to actually knowing the head temperature.

Many times I think of developing a summer/winter calibration switch to trim the head coolant temp sensor for the effects of WW and 20% AF in Summer vs 50/50 Winter.

You really must data log what the ecu sees over weeks under different temp/driving conditions..........the time delay in minutes/seconds for system to spike above 194F and how far up it goes .

Skipping the 1st degree of retard [at 195F] and letting the 2nd become the 1st [at 199.9F] has some merit IF your gasoline quality is sufficient. Fool ecu into reading [the sensor] 4-4.9F low in summer.

[elwesso]

What I always do is fill the lower radiator cap (drivers side on the rad), and then fill up the top part to assure the air is out!!!

[Q451990]

Probably not a bad strategy... I'd still check it in a day or two to see if there's a small gap where the air has worked it's way out. I hate that "swishing" noise behind the dash in the heater core...

Heath

[PoorManQ45]

Just to be on the safe side...

When was the last time you replaced the thermostat, or did you replace that with the water pump?

[Q-less]

Yeah, you really should have replaced that while you were in there...you definitely will not want to get in there again and remove all those belts.

Future water pump replacers be warned.

[GreenQ45a]

Just to be on the safe side...

When was the last time you replaced the thermostat, or did you replace that with the water pump?

It's still the OEM one from the factory.My coolant was SO CLEAN and Clear as it rushed out the front of the block(followed by a rinse from my hose).

I filled it last night after reading all posts.I drove it today and the needle wouldn't budge... Its almost stuck @ the waterline icon on the boui in the temp gauge (in a good way).

Its got to be runnig a 90\10 or 20\80 mix of water\coolant after the loss of coolant.

I will do the Distilled\WaterWetter\Coolant thing next week(can someone post a link).I had the A\C on AUTO @ 68 all day in stop and go traffic and it was 101 outside down in town today.

[GreenQ45a]

Q45TECH

What is you Summer mix?

And the Winter?

I remember reading something you posted about flushing older systems with half the chems the bottle recommends.

Should I do it twice in lower ammounts?

I'm gonna do a cooling system flush next week and I want to do it right.The Factory Service Manual is WEAK at giving proper (DETAILED) instruction and no tips...

I will search ... I just don't think the same way our NICO search engine does... So it takes me a long time...

I think its the longest part of doing a Q45 job.

Thanks

[maxnix]

From zerothread?id=111746:

Q45tech:

"Pure water has the highest heat transfer ability......primarily you need the anticorrosion additives in AF. Many use 20-25% AF in Summer vs 50/50 in winter.........as long as you monitor the coolant [PH+] to avoid acidic situations [ethylene glycol degrades to acids without additives].

Many cities have very bad tap water [chemicals added to claify and desludge] for engines."

Fred recommends a 25%/75% blend for summer. 20% is as little coolant as I have seen recommended on the board. Don't forget: Distilled water and Watter Wetter.

[elwesso]

I run 70/30 all year round. It never gets below -5 here, and 70-30 is good to like -20 or something...

[PoorManQ45]

I'm with wes on this one. it never gets uner 25 degrees here.

GreenQ45a: I recommend that even if it is running fine that you replace the thermostat. YOu don't want to be in the middle of nowhere and have that thing stick shut on you

[elwesso]

plus its $10 and takes like 15 minutes to replace.... Just remove that hose that goes into the housing, 3 bolts and its done, with a little RTV!

[GreenQ45a]

Aggreed I will get a new thermostat STAT...

Where do you get Water Wetter? How much?

Dose anyone know if I should use the whole flush kit?or two flushes using 1\2 the chems each time?


Modified by GreenQ45a at 1:12 PM 7/14/2005

[PoorManQ45]

You can find Water Wetter at your local automotive store.

[GreenQ45a]

I run 70/30 all year round. It never gets below -5 here, and 70-30 is good to like -20 or something...

NO water wetter?

[GreenQ45a]

Probably not a bad strategy... I'd still check it in a day or two to see if there's a small gap where the air has worked it's way out. I hate that "swishing" noise behind the dash in the heater core...

Heath

Do I need to run the heater?

[Q451990]

The service manual says that you should... even states that you should over-ride the climate controler to "Max Heat" for a cycle. I really don't understand this though... since there is no mix valve in the coolant lines. The heater core is hot at all times... the only change is the mix door that directs air flow over it.

Heath

[maxnix]

I remember there was a TSB about a code to ensure water heater was fully open to drain.

[Q451990]

That's just my question though... I didn't think the heater core had any type of coolant flow valve... only a bypass door that controls air flow... so if it's running wide open at all times, why would it matter what sort of air flow is going across the coils?

Heath

[3Q Jay]

That's just my question though... I didn't think the heater core had any type of coolant flow valve... only a bypass door that controls air flow... so if it's running wide open at all times, why would it matter what sort of air flow is going across the coils?

Heath

Heath, I may be wrong--but was told once that the heater control valve is on the heater core itself (certainly we've never seen one inside the engine compartment). come to think of it it might have been the IoS parts guys and they might have said buy the whole core to replace that valve--memory sketchy.

[maxnix]

Yeah, this set of instructions:

Heater Core Code

Turn ignition on, press HVAC off button within 10 sec and hold for 5 sec, press hot 3 times, press defrost 2 times, display should read 43, wait 10 sec before turning ignition off. Good luck!

[Q451990]

I remember a post from Q45Tech saying that unlike the Lexus that has a fluid control valve on the core that fails sometimes... the Q doesn't have one - just the air bypass door. I certainly think that using Brian's instructions on setting the HVAC at Max Heat is a good idea since it says to do so in the service manual... I just don't understand why it's being done. I can't imagine that there's actually a coolant control valve in the heater core but we've never heard of a failure! Can't find any reference to it in the service manual either...

Heath

[elwesso]

can't imagine that there's actually a coolant control valve in the heater core but we've never heard of a failure! Can't find any reference to it in the service manual either...

Heath

Its hard to say either way... but its so easy to do it on the climate controller, that I dont see how it makes any difference...

lets not make things harder than they have to be!!

[Q451990]

Wes... have you pulled the heater core from your parts car? Maybe you can solve the issue once and for all!

Heath