My ridiculous project... VH45DE into 240sx!

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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CrazyTrance
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx - vh45de
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yeah it will handle the torque. Welded diff.

So yeah, my alternator went out on my way to school. So 300 miles from my destination i was running on battery alone.... Had to keep switching batteries between our van and my car to try and make it. Well one of the batteries took a crap on us so i had to leave it at some random restaurant haha. Bought a new battery the next day and barely made it to my house in rapid city. So i ordered a new alternator and it wont be here till wed..

****TY.


BMAR240SX
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One more video please

NSR_s30
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BMAR240SX wrote:One more video please
Makes me want to put a VH in a S13.

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Razi
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I wonder if my dad will notice if I remove the engine from his Q.... Wonderful build man! I'm jealous!

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CrazyTrance
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Thank you!

Lately i've been having some issues with it. It seems to be bogging and i'm sure this is timing related.

A couple things annoying me are that my speedo works very intermittently. I even swapped out the speedo for another one and it doesn't work. I think the signal from the z32 transmission is like a different voltage or something? I might have to get a custom spedometer or one from a 300zx... not sure, if anyone knows whats up let me know.

And i'm also trying to figure out how to get the tach to read correctly. I know you should be able to take it apart and add a resistor somewhere but i'm not sure where..

Other than that i'll try to work on getting a video up within the month. There is suppossed to be a little drift event going on out here in rapid city where i go to school towards the end of september so i'll probably get one up then.

One more thing. I need new tires

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LEMHEAD16
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Could you please post up your wiring diagram. I just finished the headers on mine and am going to start with the wiring next week. Any help would be great.

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KrazyKyle
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How did you get past having to clearance the oil pan?

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SuperHatch
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KrazyKyle wrote:How did you get past having to clearance the oil pan?
???

There is no clearancing of the oil pan on an S-chassis car.

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KrazyKyle
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Thats right. Oops. I was thinking of the Z32.

jerdog1
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Nice fab work!!!Cant wait to see it finished!

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CrazyTrance
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LEMHEAD16 wrote:Could you please post up your wiring diagram. I just finished the headers on mine and am going to start with the wiring next week. Any help would be great.
i lost the sheet that had all of the wires i had to cross over. If i remember it was like 15 wires or so. Not exactly sure.

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RowleyHKD87
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Car: 1991 240SX SE RPS13

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That's awesome, I wanna put a vh45 in my car...

Kalypso
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that transmission is simply massive

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gtrob
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Nice looking conversion you got going here mate. except for one thing. The spacer you have to adapt your manual trans to the back of the engine. Who ever thought up that idea is completely mad. Unless you pulled your engine down and got your fly wheel and clutch perfectly balanced to your crank shaft you will run into problems in the future. And big ones at that. What you have done there is put a hole lot of stress on the back of your crank shaft. you have a nicely balanced and turning crank that is happily turning around at say for point of the argument 5000 rpm and you have bolted a completely out of balance fly wheel and clutch 50mm away from the end of it. If for say point of the argument (again) your flywheel and clutch assembly is out of balance by 3 or 4 grams when its bolted directly to your crank, you won't really feel any vibrations at all. Move that out of balance mass away from the end of your crank and you are going to feel and imperfection in the balance of your fly wheel and clutch a hole lot more. The stress you are putting on the back of your crank shaft is huge. Mate you are looking at serious probs here. Have you ever seen what happens to the inside of a car if a fly wheel or clutch comes unstuck. Not a good looking site at all. i personally would be very concerned about that, and please don't take this as a dig at you, as I think every thing else you have done so far looks really good and it would be very disappointing to see it all come unglued because of something like that. Now i know there is alot of people out there doing this, and getting away with it.In my time as a diesel mechanic I have seen a number of stationary engine that have broken the end off the crank shaft because of poorly designed set up some what like what you have there, and most of those engines would only run at 1500 to 2000 rpm. and are under constant load. Alot less revs than what you would be hoping to get and you will be giving it alot more shock load. (Eg gear changes).
CrazyTrance wrote:Ok, so this thread is basically explaining what I have been working on during the past three summers.

[edit]removed quoted post content because it was huge![/edit] - mod

Thanks for looking!

- Chase Gardner

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Mettler
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Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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^ that's a fair call, and in fact here in New Zealand we're no strangers to flywheels flying off... mainly with rotary engines though (due to the design of how they're held to the e-shaft)!

It was commonplace enough during burnout competitions at the nationals that the government has made it the law to require at least a 3mm steel transmission tunnel shield above the bellhousing area in all rotary cars.

Vids are available on youtube of a couple of oldschool RX7s blowing their flywheels and bonnet flying open... **** that's dangerous, imagine the red hot flywheel nailing a spectator!! Or worse, chopping off the driver's feet. Nasty! This is of course an extreme scenario, and what's more likely is the unbalanced load will simply reduce the life of your engine.

So yeah I am in full support of ensuring the flywheel and clutch setup is properly balanced with the engine's rotating assembly, and if a spacer must be used, that the appropriate length highest tensile bolts available are used to ensure maximum thread engagement!

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gtrob
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Yeah fly wheel coming off is not a good thing too happen. I have a old photo of one of my dads cars that had a fly wheel part company from the engine at about 8000rpm. Now he had a scatter shield for safety, it opened that up like a can of baked beans, went though the transmission tunnel and planted it self in the passengers side door. Luckily no one was in there with him. and that fly wheel clutch assembly was balanced the engines bottom end.

I would still be very carefully with spacing the flywheel and cluth away from the back of the engine, even if it is balanced as you are putting huge stress on your engine. What do you do if you have a nut or a bolt that is tight and you cant get undone. you get a mechanical leverage on to what you are trying to undo. That is same as what is happening here. except the nut you are trying to undo has now turned into a rotating crank shaft.

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White Comet
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jsut read thsi from start to finish. amazing fab work

bsaw32
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sick ride!

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Hypnotize
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Nice build, you are the man!

Presscott707
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nice my hat is off to you bro. i can wait to see vids of that beast driving.

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CrazyTrance
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Thanks everyone. SOrry i havent updated this thread very much. Been pretty busy. I'll try to post more stuff up.

Anyways. Here is a fairly large update.

Ok, so it’s been a while since I’ve updated this thing.

So what I’ve been up to?

Finally timed the car.Replaced a bunch of hoses that were cracking and ****.Replaced the clutch slave cylinder AGAIN as it was leaking from the piston (bought a while ago and it only lasted like a month..

vv Installed one of these so I can tell when to shift.



Bought a **** ton of tires and went to an event on stock blown suspension.. I sucked.









Small tight auto-x courses >> no powersteering.

Then I got some of these.



And borrowed some wheels from a buddy while his car is outta commission. And did some more…





Then we took some pictures!











And a video of the sound this thing makes.

My Noisy Car

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CrazyTrance
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gtrob wrote:Nice looking conversion you got going here mate. except for one thing. The spacer you have to adapt your manual trans to the back of the engine. Who ever thought up that idea is completely mad. Unless you pulled your engine down and got your fly wheel and clutch perfectly balanced to your crank shaft you will run into problems in the future. And big ones at that. What you have done there is put a hole lot of stress on the back of your crank shaft. you have a nicely balanced and turning crank that is happily turning around at say for point of the argument 5000 rpm and you have bolted a completely out of balance fly wheel and clutch 50mm away from the end of it. If for say point of the argument (again) your flywheel and clutch assembly is out of balance by 3 or 4 grams when its bolted directly to your crank, you won't really feel any vibrations at all. Move that out of balance mass away from the end of your crank and you are going to feel and imperfection in the balance of your fly wheel and clutch a hole lot more. The stress you are putting on the back of your crank shaft is huge. Mate you are looking at serious probs here. Have you ever seen what happens to the inside of a car if a fly wheel or clutch comes unstuck. Not a good looking site at all. i personally would be very concerned about that, and please don't take this as a dig at you, as I think every thing else you have done so far looks really good and it would be very disappointing to see it all come unglued because of something like that. Now i know there is alot of people out there doing this, and getting away with it.In my time as a diesel mechanic I have seen a number of stationary engine that have broken the end off the crank shaft because of poorly designed set up some what like what you have there, and most of those engines would only run at 1500 to 2000 rpm. and are under constant load. Alot less revs than what you would be hoping to get and you will be giving it alot more shock load. (Eg gear changes).
Hmmm. That is a good point. I see what you mean. I'm going to email the individual that designed the adaptor plate and ask him about this. Thanks for the concern.

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White Comet
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those are some great pics. the car is looking fantastic.

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BLKTOPS14SR
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Man that thing is sweet!!!!

Sanjuro
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how did it handle in the autocross compared to the stock motor? the VH does weigh a little more than the KA...

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CrazyTrance
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The hell if i know. I was just there to have fun. I just burned some tires. Didn't check my times once haha.

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CrazyTrance
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BIGGG Problems..

i did some digging in to why my car runs like ***. And why #2 and #4 cylinder arent firing.

CHecked for spark. Got it. Electrocuted myself.

Put a screw driver on the injectors when it was running. I could hear both clicking, meaning they should be functioning correctly if they arent clogged. Dont think they are. Although #4 cylinder's injector ohmed out at like 25 ohms (should be between 10 and 14 ohms). Whatever.

So i pulled the plugs on #2 and 4; the tips are coated with oil. ONLY the tips are coated with oil, not the threads meaning the oil is coming from inside the chamber. I pulled the plug on #6 and that plug was bone dry. SO now i'm starting to panic because there is something obviously going on in 2 and 4 that arent in the rest..

So i'm going to compression test the damn thing and maybe leak down test it if i can get ahold of one. And i might be buying some new piston rings soon.. Or maybe just a new fuxing engine which i DONT have the money for right now. Unless someone magically has an extra long block with good compression lying around that they can sell to me for cheap.

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Unnatural1
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Well that sucks. Even with higher than normal resistance you should still have some fuel to those cylinders. I've got 2 injectors (of the original set) that are ohming in the range of your #4 but I don't have a misfire.

Are you seeing any blue smoke coming from the tail pipe while running? I would recommend a leak down test. A leak down test will be a more accurate depiction of the health of each cylinder. Also, if you find a leak it will allow you to pin point the cause; such as piston rings, valves, etc....

I know this has got to be a bummer after all the work in getting this thing together and running.

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CrazyTrance
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yeah, it's a real downer thats for sure. Absolutely sucks. I will try getting a leak down tester for sure. Any other ideas on what it could be are also welcome

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Carl H
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you might have some bad valve seats or seals...my rb has a few bad valve seals and i'll occasionally get oil on the plugs from it if the car sits too long.


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