My next project: 5 lug & brakes!
Re: (Clawhammer)
hey Bum those falkens look friggin sick. when ya get it all together let us know how those work out.
Re: (Clawhammer)
Nope. I purchased it new just so I could avoid taking the old fitting out. I wanted simple plug and play installation.Clawhammer wrote:You have to put an IF fitting into the non ABS hole.
I just checked it to verify the fitting was in there, and it is.
Re: My next project: 5 lug & brakes! (Bumnah)
Made some more progress. I got the front brakes all taken care of. Easy as pie; IF I didn't screw one of my calipers up. I wasn't paying attention and I stripped the hole where the hydraulic lines goes into the back of the caliper. Spent a few days trying to get it repaired. I luckily found another re manufactured caliper at advance auto. At first they sent me an Iron one, but second time around I ordered up the proper one. I took it, and painted it red to match my other 3 and knocked it out. I was pissed that I made such an amateur mistake.
I also sourced up a HICAS front steering rack. This is my 3rd attempt at locating one. 3rd times a charm, because this bad boy is 2.6 turns lock to lock. I've got my old rack all unbolted and ready to come out, just need a second hand to help wiggle it out. Wiggle the new sweetness in and the front is pretty much wrapped up. I also installed the 1 1/16 master cylinder. Plug and play, 5 min job.
I need new parking brake cables, because the G35 coupe cables DEF. DO NOT WORK. Those should be in tomorrow. I won't have time until Friday afternoon to hit up the install. I've got the whole parking brake deal figured out and swapping it all in should be pretty straight forward. With any luck I'm hoping to have it running by Sunday. I'm dieing to drive this thing!
Pix:
The brakes in all their glory!
HICAS Hotness
More pix @ http://www.bumnah.com/brakes
I also sourced up a HICAS front steering rack. This is my 3rd attempt at locating one. 3rd times a charm, because this bad boy is 2.6 turns lock to lock. I've got my old rack all unbolted and ready to come out, just need a second hand to help wiggle it out. Wiggle the new sweetness in and the front is pretty much wrapped up. I also installed the 1 1/16 master cylinder. Plug and play, 5 min job.
I need new parking brake cables, because the G35 coupe cables DEF. DO NOT WORK. Those should be in tomorrow. I won't have time until Friday afternoon to hit up the install. I've got the whole parking brake deal figured out and swapping it all in should be pretty straight forward. With any luck I'm hoping to have it running by Sunday. I'm dieing to drive this thing!
Pix:
The brakes in all their glory!
HICAS Hotness
More pix @ http://www.bumnah.com/brakes
Re: My next project: 5 lug & brakes! (Bumnah)
hey man did u ever get some more progress done... im looking forward to seein the finished product
Re: My next project: 5 lug & brakes! (seejaytoo)
I haven't updated this thread in a while.
I've been fighting this brake swap issue since November.
Issues:
Inconsistent brake pedal feel.Something scrubbing against the drive train in the rear.Vibration in the steering wheel.
It took me some time but I figured it all out and finally fixed it this past weekend.
Inconsistent pedal feel:
Multiple things were causing problems with it. First the ARP wheel studs in the hub.
Look at the base of the studs in the picture. That taper near the base to the threads is longer and wider than oem. The rotor weren't even sitting flush against the hub, they were sitting on that taper. That caused the rotor to eventually warp. One of my new hubs (front passenger side hub) was also the culprit. I took measurement of the rotors and then the hubs to see how straight they were.
Here are the readings I got:
Driver side rotor was .004 of an inch off. That's from just sitting on the studs rather than flush against the hub.Passenger side (bad side) rotor was .010 of and inch off. It was .008 when measured closer to the center of the rotor. That's from sittings on the studs and a faulty hub.Driver side hub was .001 if not less of play in itPassenger side hub was .004 if not more play in it. <----- Bad hub.So because the rotor was not sitting properly and was moving around. It was hitting the pistons in the calipers back. That was causing the inconsistent brake pedal feel and the shaking felt when braking.
How I fixed it all.
I took the rotors to a local machine shop with the front hubs. Showed them there was not enough clearance for the rotor to sit properly. They enlarged the holes in the rotors so they would clear the studs. I also had them machine the rotors to compensate for them being warped.
I also replaced the front passenger side hub with a new hub.
The rubbing noise in the rear suspension was my bracket from the ebrake cables. I remade the bracket in aluminum and shaped it so it would hold the ebrake cables higher up. That took care of the scrubbing noise.
Another issue with the ebrake swap was my king pin. It was too short and sunk down behind the assembly not providing enough room for the spring to mount properly. I took 4 washers (2 per side), and I cut them on opposite ends so they would clear the backing plates. That allowed the king pin to sit properly with enough room for the springs to stay on. I also took apart the adjusting cylinder near the bottom of the ebrake assembly and cleaned it up. It now rotates much more smoothly then before. It would lock up prematurely, so the pads wouldn't sit close enough to the drum. That caused you to yank all the way up on the lever to get good contact. Once cleaned up it adjusted to the full range. Now I have properly working ebrake without having the lever pointed straight up.
I test drove it for an hour and everything seems to be working well. Hopefully I can finally track this car now.
I've been fighting this brake swap issue since November.
Issues:
Inconsistent brake pedal feel.Something scrubbing against the drive train in the rear.Vibration in the steering wheel.
It took me some time but I figured it all out and finally fixed it this past weekend.
Inconsistent pedal feel:
Multiple things were causing problems with it. First the ARP wheel studs in the hub.
Look at the base of the studs in the picture. That taper near the base to the threads is longer and wider than oem. The rotor weren't even sitting flush against the hub, they were sitting on that taper. That caused the rotor to eventually warp. One of my new hubs (front passenger side hub) was also the culprit. I took measurement of the rotors and then the hubs to see how straight they were.
Here are the readings I got:
Driver side rotor was .004 of an inch off. That's from just sitting on the studs rather than flush against the hub.Passenger side (bad side) rotor was .010 of and inch off. It was .008 when measured closer to the center of the rotor. That's from sittings on the studs and a faulty hub.Driver side hub was .001 if not less of play in itPassenger side hub was .004 if not more play in it. <----- Bad hub.So because the rotor was not sitting properly and was moving around. It was hitting the pistons in the calipers back. That was causing the inconsistent brake pedal feel and the shaking felt when braking.
How I fixed it all.
I took the rotors to a local machine shop with the front hubs. Showed them there was not enough clearance for the rotor to sit properly. They enlarged the holes in the rotors so they would clear the studs. I also had them machine the rotors to compensate for them being warped.
I also replaced the front passenger side hub with a new hub.
The rubbing noise in the rear suspension was my bracket from the ebrake cables. I remade the bracket in aluminum and shaped it so it would hold the ebrake cables higher up. That took care of the scrubbing noise.
Another issue with the ebrake swap was my king pin. It was too short and sunk down behind the assembly not providing enough room for the spring to mount properly. I took 4 washers (2 per side), and I cut them on opposite ends so they would clear the backing plates. That allowed the king pin to sit properly with enough room for the springs to stay on. I also took apart the adjusting cylinder near the bottom of the ebrake assembly and cleaned it up. It now rotates much more smoothly then before. It would lock up prematurely, so the pads wouldn't sit close enough to the drum. That caused you to yank all the way up on the lever to get good contact. Once cleaned up it adjusted to the full range. Now I have properly working ebrake without having the lever pointed straight up.
I test drove it for an hour and everything seems to be working well. Hopefully I can finally track this car now.