My next project: 5 lug & brakes!

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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Bumnah
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working4aS13 wrote:Bumnah:You are brave to drive an SR on stock 240 brakes. Also I have a question for you. The G35 e-brake cable you are using, that just bolts up? Or at least you don't have to hack up the cables? I've never come across that information before this thread and I thought I did a fairly sufficient job in researching my options for the 240SX. What is your source of information? I ended up using Z32 2+2 e-brake cables which I had to cut to shorten the length, although in hindsight I think I could of used Z32 coupe cables.

Also I think it worth mentioning you are going to have issues with those Z32 wheels on the front of your S13, at least without spacers. When I mounted mine there was about 1/2"-3/4" between the wheel and the strut. The tires will undoubtedly rub in corners if they aren't touching the strut when you mount the wheel. For a short time I ran with a staggered setup S14 SE wheels on the front and Z32 NA rears, great stable stopping distance but at the expense of acceleration due to the additional weight.

The rear rebuild kit for the Z32 calipers are no longer produced by Nissan USA you obviously will have to purchase some aftermarket ones unless you intend to go to Japan to get them. Z owners generally recommend Centric, CoZ sells them.

Also have you done an inspection of all of your ball joints? Having an entire project held up by a ball joint on order would be annoying to say the least. And just a suggestion, if you are going to be disassembling the rear axle setup you might as well do an ES bushing swap. Yes, its an additional ~$118 (if you order from Summit Racing) but you'll have a much stiffer suspension.
G35 coupe lines should bolt up; probably need to make a bracket to mount them to the chassis underneath. My source is Taylor Durdan from Durdan Prefab. He's my go to guy on this sorta stuff, his business is doing rhd conversions and building track cars. He's very competent and knows the cars inside out. Suggest a nice 3 layer exhaust manifold gasket (that was cheap to get and readily available from NISSAN NA)when I pulled my oem gasket off. Also showed me where to get the perfect set of heater hoses for the sr swap (also readily available at car quest)

I've totally skipped the ball joints (forgot about 'em). I'm not too worried, this car isn't my daily driver and it'll take me a week or two to put it all together. If I need to order replacements no big deal.

I've contemplated the es bushings, but they'd be for the rear mainly. I'm planning on swapping the rear uprights out for the z32 counterpart, but I need z32 rear shocks. Since I can't afford the suspension I want I'm forced to redo the rear work when I do my suspension build. No big deal since I have list of suspension mods that keeps growing.

For the z32 rebulid I was going to get them from here:http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32_brakes.html I was under the impression these were oem, but if not I don't care as long as they work. Since these may be hard to get, I'm going to go ahead and order them up sooner then later. Thanks for the heads up. I'm def. going to need the hardware kit, so that's a given.

Thanks for the post!


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eds13
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lets get em on man!!! then you can get coils! hehehe

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Bumnah
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UPDATE TIME!

I've almost gathered up all the parts I need to do the conversion. All I'm waiting on now are tires and getting the rear calipers powder coated. Caliper hardware has already been ordered, just waiting for it to show up.

Latest pieces of the puzzle are ARP long extended wheel studs, and Gorilla open ended lugnuts.

Information:

If you are doing a 5 lug conversion using Ichiba hubs and would like to go with longer wheel studs, this is the Knurl size. 14.3 knurl for the front hubs, and 13 knurl for the rear hubs. S13 owners for sure, may be different for s14 owners. Read up before you purchase.

Doing the swap was not hard at all; if you haven't installed the hubs yet. There is no way to install these studs with the hubs already installed. I put a nut on the stud I wanted to remove, took my 4 lbs hammer, 3 solid hits later, it was out. Line up your new extended stud, put two thick washers on, then a nut, and hit tighten it up. You can do it by hand, but I'm a girly man so I hit it with my gun (god bless it).

Pix!

ARP Studs

Gorilla Open ended lugnuts

Tools used (YAY AIR GUN!)

Finished product

Forest of studs

Front hubs

Rear hubs

So close I can almost taste it!

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redtop91
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working4aS13 wrote:Bumnah:

You are brave to drive an SR on stock 240 brakes.
Funniest thing I've heard in a very long long time. How does it make one brave to drive with an SR on stock brakes? LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOOLOLOLOLOL. 170whp rocket!


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Bumnah
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10,054 posts, 0 worth a damn.

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redtop91
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I'd better contribute something useful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bumnah, it is well known that a blue dash adds 15.2457645 whp and get's you laid by supermodels. Also the lack thereof means Jon is 3255463466873x cooler than you. There that was helpful

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srpowered240sx
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redtop91 wrote:I'd better contribute something useful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bumnah, it is well known that a blue dash adds 15.2457645 whp and get's you laid by supermodels. Also the lack thereof means Jon is 3255463466873x cooler than you. There that was helpful

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Bumnah
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redtop91 wrote:I'd better contribute something useful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bumnah, it is well known that a blue dash adds 15.2457645 whp and get's you laid by supermodels. Also the lack thereof means Jon is 3255463466873x cooler than you. There that was helpful
So what you're saying is you've sucked Jon off 3255463466873 times?

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redtop91
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Nope. Au contraire I've been sucked off said amount of times by supermodels after making the switch to the blue dash!!!!!! Your lack of a blue dash might be the reason why you are having such trouble getting laid since...well...forever.

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Bumnah
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redtop91 wrote:Nope. Au contraire I've been sucked off said amount of times by supermodels after making the switch to the blue dash!!!!!! Your lack of a blue dash might be the reason why you are having such trouble getting laid since...well...forever.
by supermodel you mean your mom with the saggy boobs? yes you're right, I haven't been laid by your saggy boobed mom.

this thread is going off topic, have your last word to me via email or something.

mmmm.... extended wheel studs.

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Bumnah
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Minor update:Alright it's been a while since I addressed this brake swap.

So I've finally gathered up alllll the parts.

Last big purchase for the swap were tires. I planned on getting Azenis which I did.

The tires are gong to be mounted on z32 NA rims i bought over a year ago. The rims are pretty beat up, but they'll work for now. I wanted to upgrade to something after market, but these will have to do now. Eventually I hope to have FN01R's 17x7.5f and 17x8.5r for the streets (te37s for the track). FN01R's could've been a reality sooner than later, but driving the car for fun this past weekend, it was apparent the brakes couldn't wait any longer. I went with my original game plan.

Now I just have to put all of this together. I want to track the car in 08 as much as I can, and just enjoy the fruits of my labor. I need a break from this money pit.

Pix:

Falken Azenis Tires

Rear Tires

Front Tires
Modified by Bumnah at 8:53 PM 9/21/2007

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chitownguy
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Why stagger the FN's when you can fit the 8.5's all around?

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Bumnah
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chitownguy wrote:Why stagger the FN's when you can fit the 8.5's all around?
I'm also debating between 17x8.5f and 17x9.5r. Primarily, I'm hoping to run 245s front and 275s rear when I have it all setup. It's all in the planning stages as well right now. I may end up not staggering. That's a good ways down the road.....

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Bumnah
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So I finally started on my 5 lug swap.

Today I did the following:

Got the car on 4 jackstandsTook off front brake calipers & rotorsDisconnected the brake linesTook off the front hubsDisconnected the rear brake linesTook off my stock brake master cylinder.

I only spent 3 hours or so on it today. And half of that was leaving to go to sears/lowes to locate a 30 mm socket. I didn't work too hard or fast. The front took no time at all to take apart.

The rear's will take more time, since I plan to take the whole upright off and swap everything over, then install everything. I'm planning on having the whole rear torn apart on tuesday evening.

So far so good. Sorta upset because i'm borrowing a massive snap on slide hammer from a buddy to help convince a stuck hub to come out, but the front two came off easy. I hope I get to use my sweet slide hammer.

Pix:

Front all torn apart. Should I keep the dust shield or no?

Car on all fours. Sweetness.

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redtop91
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Keep. Just trim it IMO.

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eds13
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cut da bish off!

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RCA
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off with the shields

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Clawhammer
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Hammer that ***** off.

4bangers
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is there a way you can find a z32 shield and put it on? will that work?

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Bumnah
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maybe. but i'm just going to remove 'em all togther.

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Clawhammer
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Real men roll with no shield.

RB20DETodd
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put 10's+12 a;; aropund my buddie has it and its nice for some played oput fackas

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Bumnah
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in english perhaps?

4bangers
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where did you get your 17/16" master cylinder? I tried finding it online but no result. Thanks

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seejaytoo
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heres a brand new one kinda pricey tho. i need a new one and im goin with it http://www.frsport.com/DiF_Tok....html

4bangers
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will the 17/16" MC work with 91 non ABS 240sx? the dif is pricy and they do include the fiting for ABS or non-ABS.

I was thinking of getting used MC so I want to ask about the fitting on non-ABS because I heard that non-ABS can't take 17/16"

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seejaytoo
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well i cut my old one to get a fitting out and put it in the middle spothere try this http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm#MC see how he cuts that little fitting out. ony difference is we dont have to bend our hardlines. i have a 93 no abs and mine worked fine. i got a used one for 12 bucks but now its goin out so im gonna grab that new one and never worry again

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Clawhammer
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I bought a reman from an autoparts store, then cut the fitting out of my old one.

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Bumnah
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I bought mine from FRsport. I did not pay nearly that much for it. I paid $130-$150 i think. It will work fine for abs or non abs. If you have a non abs car, you remove the hex bolt in the middle and attach all 3 lines, if you have abs, you can leave that closed and be good to go.

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Clawhammer
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You have to put an IF fitting into the non ABS hole.


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