My KA-T Build.

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lrb_2000
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Alright. I figured I'd start a thread to keep adding too every week or so as I build my KA-T and car basically. So here's the start...

I bought a KA24DE from a 92' 240sx today. I figured it would be better to buy a seperate complete engine, so I don't have to have much down time. I can build this on the side.

A friend and I completely tore it apart. Every single last bolt was taken off it, and put into like 50 ziplock bags all labeled. I'm tired of losing crap, so I figured it would be a easier.

Here's a few pics of it when I picked it up @ Noon.



We started getting after it, and tearing it apart around 9:30pm. And here's what it looked like about 3am after we cleaned up and organized everything. Only thing left in was the injectors are still in the fuel rail.



So that's a good start...

EDIT: See page 2 for the new plan
Modified by lrb_2000 at 1:05 AM 1/28/2006


Florida240sx
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nice.9k into engine?or 9k into engine with turbo setup.

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wild_maxx
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damn lonnie you work quick. looks like a fun project. I should have my motor built by this summer as well. Let me know if you need any help with anything. What machine shop are you going through? I have heard that Fred's Precision Machine is the best shop around this area and he's in lewiston.

1WheelWonder
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Good work man, a rebuild is something I should consider in the near future.

lrb_2000
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Florida240sx wrote:nice.9k into engine?or 9k into engine with turbo setup.
Probably about 3k+ to build the block and head. (Rods, Pistons, HG, Valves, Springs, Retainers, Cams, Seals, Gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, tensioners, etc..) and maybe 6k-7k on the turbo kit... not including engine management.. that's a whole new story...and not to mention the drivetrain.. ... overall, its going to cost way too much lol..
wild_maxx wrote:What machine shop are you going through? I have heard that Fred's Precision Machine is the best shop around this area and he's in lewiston.
That's probably who i'll go through. My dad takes all his stuff to Tisco, but I don't know if I trust those guys with my engine.. my SOHC blew two headgaskets after I took it there, but that was probably my fault lol.
Modified by lrb_2000 at 3:59 AM 10/24/2005

lrb_2000
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I don't get paid till next friday. So I can't really do anything to block right now.. anyone has any ideas of things I can do to the engine how it sits at the moment? stuff that wouldn't really cost anything, like cleaning or something? I hate having it just sitting in the garage and not being able to work on..

when I get paid, about $900 of my check is going into it... get the block cleaned, hot-tanked, bored over, crankshaft balanced, and buy some other new parts like, water pump, oil pump, timing chain, and tensioners.. or is there something better I shoud do? basically... $1500-$1800 a month is going into my car. until summertime. so I got about 8 months.

I gotta do suspension in there some month.. KTS coilovers, rucas, tie rods, tension rods, master bushing kit, and subframe spacers...my dad and I are going to build the roll cage, no interior but a dash, and two seats with harnesses... I might keep the door panels

And brakes.. 5 lug, 300zx brakes, s14 se wheels (have them)... and i'll have to find some radials when it's all over with... this might take longer than 8 months lol.

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wild_maxx
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damn... sounds like you have a good plan already. I wouldnt waste any time cleaning the spare block since it will be getting hot-tanked anyway. What are you going to use for engine managment?

lrb_2000
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I don't mean cleaning the block, I mean cleaning other parts of the engine. I'll probably get after the valve cover, and front timing chain covers.

I'm thinking about using AEM EMS, but we'll see what happens. I dont' know where i'm going to find get a dyno close by.. Might have to trailer it to seattle or something? I want the people to know what they're doing.

lrb_2000
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Well, once again I changed my mind... But not on the engine, just in which order I want to do things... So, i'm saving the engine work until after the first of the year (more money + tax return )

So, suspension first... i'm going to be ordering KTS Coilovers, Tie tie rods +ends, Cusco RUCAS, master bushing kit, and subframe spacers soon. all within the next month hopefully... I need to put a new clutch in also, my pressure plate is pretty messed up, this engine needs to last me another year maybe, before it gets pulled.. I was thinking a OEM replacement like the $100 Exedy clutches on ebay.

Then in december I should be able to get ahold of some 5 lug hubs, 300zx calipers, rotors, and lines.. I have a set of nice condition s14 SE wheels to throw on..

Then I'm thinking, just throughout the project, i'll get new Sway bars, strut bars, tension rods, building a full rollcage, and other misc suspension parts..

My girlfriend is buying me a digital camera so i'll be able to take lots of pictures to post.. I'm hoping to start soon.

Also, does anyone want my any engine parts i'm not using, (cams, rods, pistsons) or my current suspension (Tein S.Techs + KYB GR2's w/ 5k miles on them) when I take it off for coilovers

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nismofly
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good choice

sway bars should be right with the top of your list by the way

lrb_2000
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I figured I need a larger rear bar, but I've heard the front is pretty beefy anyways... or should I just order both..and, should I get adjustables?

BTW Admins.. this thread isn't going to be KA-T related for a few months I guess.. So you can move it if you feel the need.. I just gotta prep the car for the engine first .

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nismofly
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the bars really depend on what you want to do with the car

id say suspension techniques or cusco...whiteline's even better but ive heard they have ground clearance issues

and yes get front and rear at the same time

240DRFT
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how much do u want for the s-techs alone?

lots of people seem to get and like the st bars and be happy...i bought just a rear hicas bar to go on my hatch(still need to put in on)

scooby joe
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that is some tight ****. oh yeah i just joined and my 1990 240 has a ka24de and i need a turbo for it. but its all good im just working my way through it.

lrb_2000
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The S.Techs.. i'd probably take like 50 +shipping or only $125 +shipping with shocks/struts.... once I get them off, I'll clean em up and get some pictures. probably in 2 weeks.

Where did you get the HICAS Bar, and how much? I need to disable mine.

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Chezedik
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Hang the cams and sit the crank on the flywheel mount before they both warp. Just a thought.

lrb_2000
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do what now? put the crank back in the block?

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sunnys14
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how are they both gonna warp if you leave them there?

nab911
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If the suspension isnt called for i WANT it. My email is [email protected].

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wild_maxx
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the crank will warp if it is left on its side. you should at least set the crank back into the crank gurdle if your gonna lay it sideways it needs support on all the main journals. Same goes with the cam shafts. the weight from the crank/cam on only a few points of them will cause them to bend/warp making them useless.

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deviousKA
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The crank bending from sitting is a myth. You will see them all standing up in a machine shop because it saves space and is easier for a machinist to pick up (dont have to bend over as far). Steel would have to pass its point of elastisity before it would permanently warp.

nab911
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If it can warp just sitting there then i dont want it spinning that fast pulling pistons in my motor...

240DRFT
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lrb_2000 wrote:The S.Techs.. i'd probably take like 50 +shipping or only $125 +shipping with shocks/struts.... once I get them off, I'll clean em up and get some pictures. probably in 2 weeks.

Where did you get the HICAS Bar, and how much? I need to disable mine.
let me know when your gonna sell the springs.

i got the hicas sway on here in the classifieds, i forget how much i payed, but i think u can usually get one for under $50.

lrb_2000
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Well, I already got a guy who wants them... the springs and shocks.. for $125.. so yeah..

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Chezedik
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Why devious, it is my understanding that metal is fluid, like glass. And if you have ever seen old glass, like that on an S13 you would know that it flows to a low point and warps.

nab911
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But whatever the hell newtons law is stating that something not in motion will remain not in motion... and the force of gravity isnt strong enough to make metal want to bend. Wood on the other hand if left unsupported for a while will warp.

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deviousKA
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Im not a metallurgy expert or anything, so I cant comment on how the molecules would settle over time. I remember following some info over on eng-tips.com and it was discussed.

If this were true (which might take thousands of years to happen) the only way to avoid it would be to leave your cranks in a block with all of the main journals supported, or some sort of special rack. Standing them on end wouldnt help. The myth is that if they are laying down it can happen, imho this would be better than standing.

Anyways, nothing to worry about for us japanese engine builders, the cranks wont bend or warp no matter how you store them. I have recycled cranks that have been laying in piles of scrap for longer than I have been alive, under massive amounts of other engine blocks and such, still straight as can be.

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sunnys14
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i better not let my car sit too long in the yard or the chassis might warp...

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lilskyline240
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If he doesnt buy the shocks/springs, i got second dibs on them....the second u can send them out, ill give you the money...its in my hand right now

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Chezedik
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Sunny, your comment was as useless as it was idiotic. Yes, your chassis does warp from sitting there. However, we are not talking about tolerances in the thousandths of an inch. I have seen a number of your posts, and this seems to be a standard. My words of advice to you are: Think before you speak (and try to flame someone), and if you don't know, don't input. We do not need misinformation.


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