My "I bought this 720 and its a POS, so let's fix it" thread

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

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Made it to the JY this weekend. Not only did I get another crank pulley, but I also got the correct PS idler pulley (not pictured), the correct turn signal switch I needed, 2 PLASTIC kick panels to replace my fiberboard ones, package tray, non broken ash tray, the panel that goes under the steering column, park lights so I can put my bumper back on, some kenwood speakers so I can have a radio and a factory tach. I figured somebody would want it so consider it for sale.

In fact, if you're reading this thread, I have a couple things for sale. I have a factory tach, the black fiberboard kick panels mentioned earlier, rear bumper, factory non tilt column, wheel, my old dash and a few others. If you see something you want, give me a ring. I appreciate the folks that follow this so y'all get first crack. Do me a favor, email me at joshhohensee at yahoo.com instead of PM. I get email updates on my phone, so I get it quicker.

Anyways, the blue panels are in the process of getting painted black for install and the crank pulley should be on by the end of the day. Moar pics to follow.


Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

One thing I'd also like to mention. Getting the balancer bolt out of the crank. Ho Lee s***. First I put the truck in gear, and in 2wd HI, stuck a prybar in the yoke coming out of the transfer case. Bent the s*** out of my prybar. Second, stuck a big a** chisel in the yoke, bracing it on the underneath of the cab. This is when I got a 2 foot cheater pipe and really cranked on that mother. I was slipping the clutch! I ended up pulling a valve cover and running my prybar through holes in the cam gear. I was really afraid that I was going to either break the chain, the gear, or both, that's how tight it was. Well, it finally came loose. A couple taps with a small chisel and 2 screwdrivers later, the hub was mine. Surely there is a better way to hold the motor from turning when doing this... right?

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

I did get a little done this weekend. First thing was getting the truck aligned. I ran a string around the tires and found it was toed out a TON from lowering it. I brought it back in to about 0 toe. It's a little squirrely because it should have a little toe in it, but it drives way better now. It doesn't absolutely jump across the road anymore. It would grab a rut in the road and just shoot you across. Had to keep your butthole tight! I'll align it in a couple months when I have the steering and alignment class in school.

Next up, I finally got that new driveshaft in with the new carrier bearing isolator.

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I also spaced it up another 1/2" or so with a nut underneath the isolator bracket and my other spacer.

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It's got a driveline shake at about 70-75mph so I need to take a look at my angles and such. I really need to get some wedges and get the pinion angle back down. Time and money man, not enough of either.

FINALLY got a radio in the damn thing. Pulled it out of my long parked 1996 Caprice. f*** it, why not.

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Put in my junkyard speakers.

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I had to do some modifications though... The tabs where the speakers would have gone from the factory, got beat in to complete the rest of the radius of the speaker hole. Know what I mean Vern? I should have taken a picture, but it was hot as s*** and I was sweating my a** off. Also, I had to take a drift and a hammer, and ever so slightly deepen the pocket so that the magnet would fit. We're talking like 3/16ths of an inch. Maybe. THEN, I drilled my new holes and mounted that s*** up. I used all the factory wiring except for the right speaker. I couldn't find the pigtail to connect to the dash harness. I just wired it into my adapter so as to not hack up the factory stuff. I'll take a pic of that when I have the deck out again, which will be soon since I need to re-secure the cage. The deck sits a little crooked.

Next, I got all my plastic stuff painted up and some of it put on.

Package tray. Cool little JY find.

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Pass speaker grille:

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I'm still waiting on putting the driver side grille on because I've been having intermittent radio issues coming from the fuse block. Most of the terminals look like complete s***. White oxidized crap. I think I'm going to go to radio shack and just de-ox it the s*** out of it. That should work, right?

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lalsimmons
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:06 pm
Car: 2009 Triumph Scrambler
1982 Datsun 720

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I respect the fact that you pause to take pictures when you are in the middle of that.

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

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I have also recently aquired a 85 nissan 720 ST longbed z24 5speed that my uncle bought when it onlt had a lil over 6,000 miles on it... I have a few select problems... that consist of speedometer cable broken and a fuel gauge that doesn't work (idk what causing this problem...) I wanted to know if u had run into any problem with your chevy rims?? I have am looking at buying some '05 CHEVY Z71 rims off of a buddy.... I can't decide on wether I should grind the tabs off my hubs or take the wheels and get them bored out?? :confused: I just wanted to know how your setup was working... It just seems as grinding the tabs off the hubs may make for a lose fitting wheel... or does it?? :confused: Also what lug nut do you run with these wheels???

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

85-720-z24 wrote:I have also recently aquired a 85 nissan 720 ST longbed z24 5speed that my uncle bought when it onlt had a lil over 6,000 miles on it... I have a few select problems... that consist of speedometer cable broken and a fuel gauge that doesn't work (idk what causing this problem...) I wanted to know if u had run into any problem with your chevy rims?? I have am looking at buying some '05 CHEVY Z71 rims off of a buddy.... I can't decide on wether I should grind the tabs off my hubs or take the wheels and get them bored out?? :confused: I just wanted to know how your setup was working... It just seems as grinding the tabs off the hubs may make for a lose fitting wheel... or does it?? :confused: Also what lug nut do you run with these wheels???
As posted on the first page:
Smyrna720 wrote:
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For the rotors, you might notice different wheel studs. I used late model GM studs that had a .500" knurl and a speed starter thingy. They came out of a 99 Cadillac Fleetwood, a 1995 Camaro and a 2000 Chevy Venture minivan. I needed to make a stud change so I could get the right lug nuts to run my Chevy wheels. They are now 12x1.5 thread. Also on the hubs, I ground the centers down so I can run the Chevy wheels. Bearings are packed and ready for wheel seals.
NOTE: I'm not sure exactly which ones they were out of, but I did grab 5 studs that were shorter. They still work as they have all of the lug nut thread engaged, but I think the longer studs look cool. You can run the shorter ones if you want. I'll grab 5 longer ones next time I'm at the junk yard.

Being as that the lug nuts have a big bulge seat, they effectively center the wheel, not needing the hubs to center the wheel. If I had it to do over again, I would have chucked the hubs up in a brake lathe (And I still might do this to pull them in a little and for sure square up the mounting pad) but they have caused me exactly zero problems as of yet. To me, it would be just as easy to grind on the wheels as the hubs, but I'm not real partial to fubaring a set of nice aluminum wheels in case I messed up, so that's why I did what I did.

Keep in mind also, you're talking about running different wheels, so you might run into different issues than I did. I'm assuming of course that you're going to run the 05 and up 17" wheels. Those are probably more on par with an Escalade wheel.

Also, my truck is lowered making it less tolerant of a tall overall tire size. Every application is different. Ask questions, take pictures and pray your s*** works, lol. That's exactly what I did.

Speedometer: Check the cable AND the drive gear in the transmission. And the speedo. It could just as easily be broken.

Fuel gauge: Might as well pull the cluster and check the gauge and speedo while you're there. Not sure exactly what you're looking for, but I'll let you know. I have to troubleshoot an ill reading sending unit myself, so stay tuned here. I'll have it figured out in the next couple weeks. What I have heard though is that the 720 sending units should read 10 ohms when full and 80 when empty. My gauge never goes to full, so I have extra resistance somewhere in the circuit. I'll be attempting to find if it's the gauge, the wiring or the sending unit.

Good luck!

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

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I have already determined my speedo problem... my cable is snapped clean into about 6inches out of the transmission... so i will order a new one from carquest..
as for the fuel gauge i will have to check for it....
but as for my wheels they will either be: a set of 17" '05 chevy rims.... :chuckle: or a set of 16" '02 GMC rim.... :chuckle: both are aluminum.....
i think i will have to do a further investigation of the rims mounting up... and grinding the hub vs. boring out the wheel...
i will try and to load up a picture of the truck later... right now it runs and drives great... with only 64, :confused: miles on it

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

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Package tray. Cool little JY find.

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BTW where did you happen to find the lower heater cover that goes on the passenger side under the glove box???????? the package tray as u called it.....

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

85-720-z24 wrote:Package tray. Cool little JY find.

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BTW where did you happen to find the lower heater cover that goes on the passenger side under the glove box???????? the package tray as u called it.....

Pulled out of an 86 king cab in a junkyard in Laverne TN. BTW, Nissan is the one who calls it a package tray.

If you think that's cool, wait until I get the lower column cover on. That hides even more ugliness.

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

Post

ok... I think ima make me a cover for my lower dash on passenger side as that is the one that is missing... btw i really had no clue what this was called that's why i referenced to it as what you had stated..... but i just glad to see that there is someone else out there going through the same stuff i am going through... and getting these trucks back out on the road :cool:

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

Post

I have another question also after a long night at work on my nissan... did you have to change anything on the rear as far as lugs, center of axle, and etc???

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

85-720-z24 wrote:I have another question also after a long night at work on my nissan... did you have to change anything on the rear as far as lugs, center of axle, and etc???
No... Other than changing the studs for the longer studs, that's it. Now, I do need to get some shims and shim the pinion angle down, but that's still on the to do list.

Now... I got a little more work done this weekend.

Fixed the intermittent radio issue. It was the blue connector under the driver side of the dash. I followed the wiring schematic and it led me right to it. IF YOUR CIGARETTE LIGHTER AND RADIO DON'T WORK, CHECK THERE. I wish I would have done that first... sigh.

Well, the day started off crappy enough. Rain, rain, rain. Instead of mowing, I was going to clean the garage. Well, I got out there and saw my bumper in the scrap pile, and decided, I'm gonna put that back on. THEN, when I popped the hood, I said, I'm gonna fix that radiator. Then I said, since I got the radiator out, I might as well throw that new balancer on there. And since I have the belts off, I'm gonna put the correct belt tensioner on there. WHEW! I didn't mean to do all that, it kind of just happened.

Next thing I know, I'm using screw drivers to gently pry the hub off.

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Here I am, making one balancer out of basically three. Both of my power steering crank pulleys were dented, and I still had the one I snagged from the JY the first time, so I threw that on there. NOW, since all the bolts are out, and I don't want a repeat of my balancer slinging performance, I'm taking preventative measures to ensure that it won't happen again.

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Zing the crank bolt on with the impact and call it done.

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Giggity.

I also installed the correct, factory power steering idler pulley I snatched from the yard last time I was there.

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Then, I resoldered the radiator.

Wire brushed:

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NOTE: This is really not clean enough. I had to burn paint off, brush again, blah blah blah. I should have cleaned it better the first time. Let that be a lesson to you.

Fluxed.

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NOTE: Be sure to also flux during the soldering.

Fixed

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NOW you can add the bumper.

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I had to beat the s*** out of it with a dead blow to get it straightened back up, and then I polished it up with some Meguiars compound. The chrome still looks like s*** because it's all pitted up, but it honestly looks as good as it possibly can. Tonight, I'm going to put the stock park lights back in... I think. I have to take the stuff to class so I can fix one of the housings wires. That, and one of the housings is a little chewed up, so I'm gonna swap some parts.

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

Post

dude what JY are you going to??? I can't find another junk truck in ALABAMA this model there are very few hard-bodies in the JY... i need tail lamps and i guess i'm going to have to order them... or are there any after market lamps for our trucks?? :gotme either way i'm guessing i'm going to have to order them from somewhere outta state... is there somewhere online to find parts like this??? i have tried my local JY and also Pull-A-Part (all they have anymore is car/truck hulls, they all been cleaned out already)

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

85-720-z24 wrote:dude what JY are you going to??? I can't find another junk truck in ALABAMA this model there are very few hard-bodies in the JY... i need tail lamps and i guess i'm going to have to order them... or are there any after market lamps for our trucks?? :gotme either way i'm guessing i'm going to have to order them from somewhere outta state... is there somewhere online to find parts like this??? i have tried my local JY and also Pull-A-Part (all they have anymore is car/truck hulls, they all been cleaned out already)
Well, I get the new vehicle notification from pull a part and the local junkyard, and I'm down there within hours. That's really about the only way to do it. If you're needing parts and don't mind driving a little bit, there's a bunch of them in Knoxville... or at least there was. As far as aftermarket lamps, I'm really not sure. If I was needing hard to find parts, I would start a thread and see if I could get somebody to get them from a JY for me. Say hey, I need taillights, if you're in the JY, text me @ xxx-xxx-xxxx with a picture. If they look good, I'll give you the price of the lenses plus X dollars for your time and shipping. Actually that would kind of be a nice forum subsection to have, all models included... I need this for my 240, I need this for my Maxima ect. s***, I'd help out a brother. Of course, I take PayPal on the fly so...

Either way, I am REALLY getting the hankering to do an L67 supercharged 3800 Buick swap. I need to find two motors though. I need a V6 Camaro 3800 shortblock, flywheel, T5, clutch and wiring harness. I need the Camaro block so I can keep the starter on the Passenger side, otherwise it would end up on the driver side. I need a 2.8L Blazer bellhousing, because the Camaro T5 bellhousing tilts the trans 15* to the driver side. . I need, obviously, an L67 supercharged top end, PCM and front accessory drive. I'll also be getting a Ford 8.8 out of a Ranger or Explorer. Then, I can put all my mishmash parts together and haul it out for minimal cost to me. I'll have to put a fuel cell where the spare tire is now, and rerun a fuel system, but that shouldn't be too bad.

I think it can work... The only thing I'm really worried about is trans tunnel clearance. Not sure what it's going to look like. With a smaller pulley, headers, custom intake, ancillary bolt-ons, and a custom tune from PCM4Less, I'll be hoping for 300HP to the wheels. Ought to make her scoot right on down the road.

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

Look at my thread here please:

post6329916.html#p6329916

85-720-z24
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 8:13 pm
Car: 85 Nissan 720 z24 5speed STRIGHT PIPE!!!
(working on 16" GMC wheels, new tires, and home made cold air induction...

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:wtf2: :wtf2: :wtf2: :wtf2: :wtf2: :wtf2: :ohno: this is just terrible...

kilt
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:21 pm
Car: just bought an 84 nissan datsun 4x4 truck

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i just bought one last week my first runs good but i dont no whar to get a brush gaurd or light rack for the bed if u have any ideas plz hit me up

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

Well, yall ain't gonna believe this s***. I got the truck back. If you read the thread I posted earlier, you will see how it went away. Now it's back. It was legal, ethical and totally on the up and up. And I didn't have to pay to get it back.

Downside, there's a rod a knockin and it needs a motor now.

I haven't decided on Z24, KA or Buick V6. We'll see here in a couple months.

Either way, I'm just tickled to have the truck back.

And a s*** pic to prove it.

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lctmjw
Posts: 21
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:44 pm
Car: 1985 720 King Cab

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After reading the other thread, I thought you'd have no chance of getting your pickup back. Good job, congratulations! Sorry about the rod knock though. Judging from your posts, you don't seem the type to be discouraged easily, I know you'll have it back on the road in no time.

dayid
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:40 am
Car: 1986 720

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Any chance you could give me a little more insight into what went wrong with your blower? My late '85 720's blower had been intermittent for a few days and then completely quit. I am getting 12v @ the red wire (the two that go to the blower), but the grounding to the blue wire (of those same two) is bad. Is that why you had to pull your dash? How hard was pulling the dash? Any tips so I don't have to pull out any more hair trying to correct this?

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

dayid wrote:Any chance you could give me a little more insight into what went wrong with your blower? My late '85 720's blower had been intermittent for a few days and then completely quit. I am getting 12v @ the red wire (the two that go to the blower), but the grounding to the blue wire (of those same two) is bad. Is that why you had to pull your dash? How hard was pulling the dash? Any tips so I don't have to pull out any more hair trying to correct this?
Here's the deal. The real reason I pulled the dash was because I had to replace the heater core. No big deal. It's only 8 bolts and 2 electrical connectors. I did however need to pull it to fix the connector issue I had, because I couldn't solder new connections where they were.

Pulling the dash will make this WAY easier to trouble shoot though... it's really up to you. Make a thread and post up what you find. You can ask for help there too based on what you find.

Here are some pictures to let you know how to get the dash out of your 720.

Start on the driver's side.

Take the column surround off. You don't need to pull the wheel to do this. Just make sure you get all the screws out so you don't break the surround.

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Dash bolts: 10MM

2 here

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There is 3 across the top. I could only shoot the center one.

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One here by the e- brake.

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Since you're here, pull this electrical connector apart. PUSH the tabs together, not pull. This goes for all connectors on the truck. Should have a blue one and a white one. For the dash harness.

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Passenger side. 2 bolts here:

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If you've got the package tray, you've got 2 more screws.

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Pull the dash out A LITTLE. Go back to the driver's side, reach up behind the speedo and disconnect the cable. I think you have to twist the connector then pull the cable. Can't remember. Then the dash should come up and out. Mind the blower ducting. Some may fall out.

Now, if something looks like it's not coming out like it should, be careful and look twice. I may have forgotten something. Also look and read through a few more posts. Look through all my posts. I usually took pretty good pics, but sometimes I didn't. Look and make sure you know how everything comes apart. If you can't figure it out, ASK. Try not to break stuff. It's hard to find.



Now, based on my experience, there's only a couple things that could go wrong, but instead of throwing parts at it, you really need to sit down with a multimeter and a wiring schematic and figure it out. I would go in this order

If you're testing components with an ohmmeter, they need to be DISCONNECTED and isolated before you test them.

Blower motor- should have RESISTANCE. Should not read 0 or OL that means you've got an open or a short. I'd say it should be between 5K and 15K ohms

Blower resistor- If it looks burned up, it probably is. HOWEVER, if it was, the blower should still work on high. Resistances for the resistors are usually listed on the board.

Fan switch- You should have low resistance in 3 of the positions and OL in the off.

Fan switch connector- If you look in the first post, mine was melted. If I had to do it again, I'd have gotten one from the junkyard instead of what I did, but I had to get the truck running pronto.

All other connections- They could be melted, corroded or broken. Leave the fan on and start shaking wires. You'll find it if that's your problem.

I think that should do it. Good luck.

dayid
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:40 am
Car: 1986 720

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Thanks, I've got the Haynes & FSM and am debugging using the diagnoses pages.

My condition was - no blower in any speed setting.

I've only had a little time to look at it & so far I've verified that I'm getting 12V @ the red/yellow to the fan motor and that if I ground the fan motor it runs properly in full speed (bypassing the resistor and fan switch). According to this, my next thing to check is the "ground black wire leading to fan switch". The images in the FSM are drawn so small that I'm not 100% sure what connection it's showing:
SH259 on page HA-47
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also, 82M on page EL-109
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I know that the blue wire coming from the blower motor (that goes to the fan speed/resistor) isn't grounding right - since it gets grounded after the resistor/fan-speed I'm expecting to find one of those is bad or the ground after them is bad. I still need to do continuity checks on the resistor and the fan switch to verify they're both good.

Seeing that the dash pulls fairly easily makes me a little less uneasy about potentially having to pull it. Image

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

OK. Go to my first post and look at the connector that I melted and replaced. It's the very first pictures posted in the thread. That's the connector you're looking for. If you take your fan switch out and trace the wires, it'll take you right to it. The problem is, it is tucked away. Before you do anything, plug every thing back up and turn the fan on. Start pulling on that wire. That's how I found my problem. The connector was melted causing an intermittent open.

dayid
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:40 am
Car: 1986 720

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Rad, thanks! I'll either tear into this this evening or tomorrow AM hopefully.

dayid
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:40 am
Car: 1986 720

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Figured I'd drop by to say thanks again! Pulled the dash last night and sure enough - the same 4-prong black plug that yours had burned up was burned on mine - same pin (ground) also. Didn't get to splice it last night, but the melt on it gives me high hopes that fixing it will resolve my problem. Since I had the dash out went ahead and replaced the head unit - so this failure provided a good means for an upgrade also! Pulling the dash really was way easier than I was anticipating - just hoping getting it back in is as easy! :lolling:

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

Alright, time to get this puppy cranked back up.

Remember when I said I got the truck back and said it had a rod knock? Well, that's what I thought. More on that later.

Here we are at the junkyard.

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Yeah, that' how we roll.

Look at that nasty sucker!

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Now, available in clean.

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Pulled the motor out and fell in!

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Alternative power.

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Well, now that the motor is out, lets look inside and see what happened.

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Ruh, roah Shaggy.

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We're thinking a rod bolt let go when the PO was hauling a** down the interstate, probably around 4000ish RPM.

Well, new oil pan going on the junkyard motor, since those ***holes punched a hole in the old pan to drain the oil.

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Gayness.

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Motor dropping in. Oh, I didn't know it until I pulled it, the the blown up motor had a brand new clutch on it. Suhweet!

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Wrapping it up on the first night

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After a long day, I got this far. Foiled by a f*** needle and seat. I drained the gas let it sit for a while empty. Filled it full of fuel and the carb is just DUMPING fuel in.

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The truck ran before the motor let go and then sat for about 4 months with the gas drained. I made sure to suck out the fuel from the tank and took the carb off and drained it. Here is a video of how it's running. All the sparkplugs are sooty and black. The bottom of the intake manifold is wet when the carb is removed. I dunno. I've been through the carb since it needed a needle and seat and cleaned it thoroughly so I think it might just be screwed.

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Also, the carb is a reman less than 2 years old, so I know it's not wore out. It's something else.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCBVqBqtJ9Q&feature=plcp

Lastly, all the wires ohm out good and they were on the truck when it was running. Spark for all cylinders is hot and blue. Timing has been checked and verified at a high idle. There are no vacuum leaks that I know of. Pintle has been removed from anti diesel solenoid. Also, fuel level is at the dot on the sight glass.

Looks like it's getting a Weber.

Davezilla
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:40 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX
1986 720 4x4

Post

Looks like your needle and seat valve at the float is stuck open or there's some debris in there keeping it from closing so it's flooding the s#@$% out of the engine...

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

Davezilla wrote:Looks like your needle and seat valve at the float is stuck open or there's some debris in there keeping it from closing so it's flooding the s#@$% out of the engine...
It was flooding at first. I guess the rubber on the old needle was s***. Fuel level in the float bowl would rise and rise and rise. I then got a rebuild kit, cleaned the hell out of everything I could and it helped, but didn't fix it. The fuel level did stay though. I think that the mixture control solenoid s*** the bed. I'll keep the Hitachi on the shelf just in case anything happens, because you never know.

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Post

Oh yeah, this is bad right?

Image

Image

Davezilla
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:40 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX
1986 720 4x4

Post

Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix... Um... yeah... that's bad...


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