MAF Sensor Ohms?

[94Q45Beast]

how many ohms should the MAF sensor fall under, I have a static idle and my idle changes when I wiggle the connector. and could a bad MAF connector trigger a code 34? I want to ohm the MAF before I lightly sand the pins to clean them to fresh metal and bend them slightly for a tight fit. idle was going wack, it'll go back and forth (not erratically) between 850 rpm and 650 rpm in "P" and "N" and dip down to 400 rpm when I put it in any other gear and back up to anywhere between 650 rpm and 500 rpm with a rumble noise when it hits 500 rpm and below.

while cruising at 45 mph the rpm's would stay at a 1000. with my foot still on the pedal. could a bad turbine revolution sensor have anything to do with this?

[94Q45Beast]

there is a hissing sound near the IAC but all hoses were snug....I sanded the pins on the MAF to fresh shiny metal and bent it slightly and cleaned the connector and it was a nice and tight fit but the problem still persists...I wiggled it around in all gears and no change in idle...but still had the exact same idle issue except it stalled twice....the Q is past due for an oil change since i'v been at work for ridiculously long hours

[elwesso]

You can't determine if the MAF is bad based on ohms.

Put a used MAF in. MAF would not cause a code 34 which is for the KS.

[94Q45Beast]

ugh, another KS job, good think I already bought the Hitachi's, a new MAF is on the way, it lasted 180K miles so I think its worth the money than a shady used one in my opinion

[elwesso]

I've had pretty good luck with used MAF. I think new MAF's are like $500, you can buy 10 of them @ $50 each before you get to a new one, SURELY you'll get a good 1 good out of 10..

[94Q45Beast]

ok I'll try that first

[94Q45Beast]

now that I think about it....wouldn't the MAF cause a CEL light?.....the entire point to all this is so I can fix my Q....it stumbles and idle's really low in gear then stumbles again and dies...fuel pump is fine, no noise there, all fuel hoses are tight, and I adjusted the IAC valve to 850rpm, and no air leaks...other than the hissing noise around/from the IAC valve.....will replace fuel filter today...fuel hoses feel pressurized.

[94Q45Beast]

I replaced my duralast fuel filter with a fram, no change......I decided to reset the IAC valve and I had to turn the screw 4 full turns to get it to idle at 850-900rpm and then slowly the idle came down to 650 rpm on its own and it's just staying there smoothly...but in gear other than "P" and "N", it drops down to 500-575 rpm statically (not smooth).......No cel light meaning it can't be the maf or IAC or any electrical...the connector is really snug now on the maf.....it can't be my fuel system...no noise from the fuel pump or fuel smell in the trunk...fuel pump is exactly 27,453 miles old bought directly from the dealership, and recently inspected all injectors and changed out the bad ones with new fuel hoses that keep coming loose every couple thousand miles. and I run 104+ octane booster with total fuel system cleaner every month (surprisingly I still get only 12 mpg combined city and highway driving), seafoam every 10K miles (did that today), I even did a fresh oil change + filter with my "go to" setup to see if that helps my idle problem (penzoil ultra platinum with pure plus tech, 5w-30 with Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter), secondary TPS was changed, spark plugs are roughly 10K miles old...TB is completely clean and so is the Plenum and lower runners ( scrubbed clean every 30K by hand, all 10 pieces, I don't mind paying extra bucks for hoses from the dealership, and i haven't needed to change any besides the pcv valve hose).....I did a transmission fluid dran+refill 11K miles ago and did it again 7K miles ago and dip cleaned the Transmission filter in fuel .I'm clueless on where to look...my coil packs are also in good condition and were checked when changing the plugs.....I consulted the FSM and i looked through it and last option was a bad ECM...'...I really hope not....I'm stuck on this riddle.

[94Q45Beast]

it has to be the IAC...gonna take it apart and strip clean it....also my steering wheel is torn and heavily used, I don't like wheel skin or covers....is it possible to fit a steering wheel from another infiniti?....suppose any of the fx series....

[94Q45Beast]

I just purchased a brand new OEM IAC valve...it seemed to be the culprit...no idle drop when connector removed. connector got battery voltage as the FSM says, couldn't get a 10 ohm reading on the valve. I paid 132 bucks for it with free shipping....1 left for anyone interested.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AC328-NEW-I ... d2&vxp=mtr

[goody90q45]

Take a look at the orientation of the clamp on the hose at the bottom of the IAC valve. The mechanic that replaced a couple of injectors on my Q put this clamp on with the screw facing the rear and the valve would not seat properly. Short of taking the plenum off to turn the clamp I had to add a couple thicknesses of garlock gasket to move the valve away from the plenum.

While you're cleaning and tightening connectors do the same to the TPS connector and the two connectors for the EGR solenoids. They're the same style as the MAF connector and the pins can get loose. Also look at the two small hoses that plug into the air intake tube between the MAF and the TB. Mine have a tendency to back out over a period of time and the idle starts acting up, the transmission shifts rough and the shift points change to about 4000 rpm. Finally check all 16 plenum bolts to make sure none are stripped causing a vacuum leak.

[black g50]

there is a hissing sound near the IAC but all hoses were snug....I sanded the pins on the MAF to fresh shiny metal and bent it slightly and cleaned the connector and it was a nice and tight fit but the problem still persists...I wiggled it around in all gears and no change in idle...but still had the exact same idle issue except it stalled twice....the Q is past due for an oil change since i'v been at work for ridiculously long hours

Check under that flying saucer thing to the right of iac. Kept hearing hissing sound also,that little hose underneath popped loose.

[94Q45Beast]

yeah that clamp was B**** to deal with every time I put the plenum back on, bit it wasn't getting in the way, both hoses were fitted all the way and clamped properly. that dam fuel hose coming out of the left bank keeps coming loose (towards the fire wall with the Phillips head) and tightened that and no change, I'll do what I did with the MAF connector to both TPS sensors, an the 2 for the EGR solenoid when I get home from work in about 32 hours from now. one of the 2 thin windshield washer size hoses that in between the MAF and the TB is backed out a lot but hasn't cam off yet...will push that back in...now as for the plenum I know this is a BIG NO NO, but as you know I keep the plenum and lower runners super clean so I put some permatex black or grey (can't remember) inside the top and bottom grove of the plenum O rings for a better seal. one of the plenum bolts broke from over torquing when my idiot older brother tried to help me when my back was turned as a "surprise"...but no vacuum leaks from the plenum....as for the "flying saucer thing" on top of the EGR valve right next to where the Throttle cable is secured...I changed those hoses a few thousand miles ago from my last under plenum job with windshield washer hose but I will look again. but that fuel hose towards the firewall is really bugging me. and I think I got a sweet deal on a brand new OEM IAC valve.....as for now untill I get all that done I'll just tighten the throttle cable just enough for the butterfly valve to open slightly with the mini tool box in the trunk.

[94Q45Beast]

wow, just went for a coffee run and before I headed out I spent a minute adjusting the throttle cable just so it idle's at 1000rpm and 650 - 750 in gear...the power band feels amazing....it just took off in first gear then it really really took off as soon as it hit second gear....but this adjustment is temporary...I can't help the teenager inside me....

[94Q45Beast]

I did all that was recommended...and went ahead and installed the brand new IAC (Jecs and nissan badged)...but while inspecting it the solenoid looked shorter in length but I still installed it and the idle smoothed out a lot and the Q was (and I quote one of the moderators from an earlier thread) purred like a kitten....but in "P" and "N" it still idle's at 550-600 rpm super smoothly no static at all, I adjusted the idle screw (which was a dual Phillip head and flat head metal screw) before installing it, 2 turns out. and in gear it dropped down to 500rpm, smoothly, so I adjusted it to 4 turns outward to get it to idle at 650-750 rpm, and 550 rpm in gear....its driving me nuts...now I'm considering 2 things....1: too much slack in the throttle cables (I adjusted it back for the TB cable to be slightly tensioned , 2: my cooling system from my previous job.

[3Q Jay]

good ebay find. I see the nissan part number, but the one in the photo doesn't say "JECS UNISIA" nor actually have the nissan stamp (just the hamburger logo). Could indeed be an OEM but non-nissan branded part (or maybe you got the real deal--which would really be a good find!).

Must set the AAC for 10-15% duty cycle in park, no AC at operating temp.
some consult-like interfaces seem to have a lower limit value of 10, which is why i suggest 15%, but no more.
TPS need to be set for exactly 0.44v at warm idle. need to have just a 'lil slop in the throttle cable at warm idle. you cannot adjust it cold.

[94Q45Beast]

the IAC valve that I bought said jecs and the part number with the nissan logo....seller does have a return policy so it does seem legit but does anyone here have a OEM AAC valve with a metal dual Phillips head and flat head adjustment screw with a shorter solenoid?, the one I pulled off had a plastic adjustment screw with a longer solenoid which was the AAC valve that came with my Q from the factory....how many turns is 10-15% duty cycle? I thought 2 - 2 1/2 turns was suffice or when it reached 650 +/- 50 rpm.....and what is normal idle in gear other than "P" and "N"?....I will reset the TPS sensor at warm idle and will post back with results.

[94Q45Beast]

I'm returning the AAC valve. I found out that I needed the AC327 model when I purchased the AC328 which is why the solenoid was shorter and the idle screw was different.

[King Charles]

I just cleaned my MAF sensor & connector still sputtering to idle on crank then dying out afterwards. I guess I'll roll with the 40$ sensor off Amazon & replace. Never had my booby act up like this lol.

[King Charles]

This is odd when looking to replace my MAF sensor I see the 4 pin & 3 pin up for my '96. Yet I check mine the female side(brown & orange) has 4 slots yet on the sensor itself has only 3 prongs/connectors ?! Did one break off (it's not inside the receptacle I checked) ?

The plot thickens lol.

[94Q45Beast]

my idle is still static at times. I'm soooo ready to strip my Q down....as soon as I buy another clean 94 Q45 and when I'm done doing all the reading, then more reading, then more reading after that. And all that reading is without reading the entire FSM front to back. but as for now I installed a brand new OEM Jecs MAF and it didn't change a thing so I returned it. I'm getting like 12.5-13 mpg city driving. I'm thinking I need to do another full coolant flush of everything. first with distilled water then the antifreeze, TCS actuator is acting up. buzzing sound in its area when in "ON' position and the slip light has been on the dash since I got it. idle changes when the steering wheel is turned from lock to lock. I would take it to T3 but they can't even perform half of the services they use to provide for the Q's...my maf is also 3 pronged. I read somewhere here that the OBD ll Q came with a 4 prong.

[King Charles]

This 3 & 4 prong business has me scratching my head lol.

[94Q45Beast]

the 4 pin was suppose to be an updated version as far as I know/think (could be wrong) if your connector is a 4 pin style, then you have the wrong MAF. most likely previous owner's mistake.

[King Charles]

Looked with a mag-light the MAF definitely has 3 pins but it does look as if it could've had a 4th, I don't see any ragged breaks but there's space for one more. Connector is most definitely 4 pin so I'll go with that.

[94Q45Beast]

FML, I ended up keeping the AAC valve and the car ran great....yeah I stripped the throttle cables to where I can't move the nut back and forth but still....it ran great with a slight tension in the throttle cable...not too much to where it opened the butterfly valve....I only ran BP gas. $2.79 a gallon and have run about 15 gallons of it in the Q so far but I still got 13mpg city roughly with awesome performance.... so I decided to do a test...as soon as the Low Fuel msg displayed. I filled exactly 1.003 gallon of kroger 93 Octane fuel for $2.51 a gallon. and with careful driving...got 15 mpg with no performance drop and just city driving and then filled up 4 gallons of QT gas and a huge performance drop and the car is now stumbling annoyingly at idle in all gears....now I'm gonna add some 104+ octane booster and full deep fuel system cleaner just so the QT gas can become usable in my Q...I hope this fixes the newly found annoying stumble.

[King Charles]

Anyone have another online resource for a used MAF sensor because my E-Bay account is now limited due to an unjust "dispute" go figure lol.

[QueenV]

You can buy items on ebay as a "guest" without a log in. Use a different email account.

[94Q45Beast]

F***** fuel hose is loose AGAIN towards the fire wall. the dam hose is even double clamped and still loosens....gonna run to the dealership and buy OEM fuel hose and get rid with this SOB auto zone fuel hose that has swollen up compared to the OEM fuel hose that I have already that runs beside the fuel filter.

[94Q45Beast]

I think I finally sourced the issue.....I pulled codes even though there was no CEL light....there never is when I pull codes....but I got Code 16. , TCS Signal.....NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.........gotta find another TCU now. F*** ME how the hell did that go bad. pops never messed with the traction control and neither have I.

[94Q45Beast]

this is gonna sound really stupid. but code 16 = TCS signal....what does TCS mean....Traction control system?, Transmission Control Solenoid?, or is it the harness for the TCU that has gone bad gone bad? and how do I check to see if the harness is bad or the TCU is bad?....I pulled a 30A fuse from under the hood that said TCS but only because it kept on shorting out and I couldn't locate where the wire shorted even with the fancy device, this was when I first got my Q