MAF Sensor Ohms?

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94Q45Beast
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I also noticed my ATF filter leaking with dark brown fluid...the one by the TCS relay (maybe code 16 could have been triggered by a bad relay)...I wonder.


QueenV
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Car: 1997 Q45 170,250m Silver/Black
Done: 2 knock & 1 oxygen sensors, L. L. Control Arm, Tie Rod, Radiator, Battery, Exhaust pipe and now looking at front struts. This Q made me fall in love with driving.
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I had code 61 on my traction control troubleshooting through the flashing lights by shorting the "console" data link connector. I replaced the motor relay (ABS actuator relay) for $37 on my '97 (. Reset the code. It fixed it. Different generation though. On my generation Q, there is no code 16, but there is a code 61?

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94Q45Beast
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alright, time for me to take a few days break from work and gear up, Rules of engagement = change the 2 blue relay's from under the battery, and the ATF filter right by it + hoses...Dam F*** me how did I miss that in the general maintenance section of the FSM.

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94Q45Beast
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I did the self diagnostic procedure check for the A/T (FSM AT-41) and got a judgement code of "AT CHECK"
so I went over to page AT-56 through AT-58 and will do the diagnostic check

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94Q45Beast
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I did the first procedure of the Inhibitor switch test and.....

Battery Voltage = 12.29V
P = 11.3V
R = 10.5V
D = 11.96V
D3 = 11.96V
D2 = 11.4V
D1 = 11.93V

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94Q45Beast
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my Turbine Revolution sensor is bad according to "Danny" from T3 way back when.

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94Q45Beast
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here's the weird part, the car shift smoothly from P-D1, and the car rolls back normally in "R" and rolls forward normally in "D -D3-D2-D1", I can shift the car in D1 and drive and shift manually with no problems, shifting is slow in all D gears but not too slow. and the shift points are off, I usually shift by letting go of the gas pedal then gassing it and it shift up otherwise is stays at a RPM for a second or 2 and then shifts.

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94Q45Beast
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I put the hose collecting and the JRZ contact on pause until I get this done.

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goody90q45
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The turbine revolution sensor is easy to ohm test and repair is only 2 bolts. You can replace it your garage on your back but if you have a lift it can be done much easier.

post4597172.html?hilit=turbine%20revolu ... r#p4597172

Lots of other threads on changing out the sensor using search.

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94Q45Beast
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locating a brand new OEM is the hard part

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94Q45Beast
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I read that link A-Z and its been a big help, but did you experience a buzzing sound when depressing the gas pedal for the first 2 inches? because I do from the engine bay

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94Q45Beast
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ERRRRRRRRRR, dealer wants 190 bucks for the Turbine Revolution Sensor

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94Q45Beast
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as for the inhibitor switch, I can start the car easily in P and N

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94Q45Beast
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Q45tech wrote:You must be careful and sensitive to use Lubguard as a little bit can go a long way in CHANGING the overall Stick SLIP curve of ATF. Stick slip is the graph of different clutches vs the speed difference between them as the clutches are disengaged and engaged.

Why I alway recommend after a 100% ATF change and now sparkling clean ATF that you use 1/2 a bottle and wait a few weeks before adding the remainder .................... often you find a full bottle is too much.

You must be engineering sensitive to HOW a brand new transmission shifts otherwise you can make a RE4R03A too sloppy.................there is a precise sweet spot.

while I'm at this inhibitor witch problem, I just bought 20 quarts of OEM Nissan Matic D atf fluid and will use it to flush the A/T 100%. and use a 1/2 bottle of Lubeguard and wait a few weeks as Q45Tech recommeded to Mike.

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94Q45Beast
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I finally took a look under and.....it ain't pretty


Image
Image
Image

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94Q45Beast
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and the external ATF filter hoses are waaayyy past their life expectancy. can I temporarily bypass the external atf filter?

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King Charles
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Just ordered a re-manufactured MAF sensor off Amazon, got to get my baby back purring lol.

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94Q45Beast
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:argh :facepalm2 :tantrum: :bang :bang :bang :boohoo: :picard: :bang :(

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94Q45Beast
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I can't get those stubborn connectors dis connected for the life of me, those connectors a soaked and filled with ATF fluid. and while I was attempting that, I noticed my ATCU harness partly chewed by a rodent..... right where it comes out the body of the car. and to those stubborn connectors....will post pics

QueenV
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 4:43 pm
Car: 1997 Q45 170,250m Silver/Black
Done: 2 knock & 1 oxygen sensors, L. L. Control Arm, Tie Rod, Radiator, Battery, Exhaust pipe and now looking at front struts. This Q made me fall in love with driving.
Location: Long Island, NY
Contact:

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"chewed by a rodent" Can't blame that on age or design... Or can you?

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94Q45Beast
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....I can....why on gods green earth would they think about using rubber on the harness.... :chuckle: ..just kidding....there were teeth marks all over it.

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94Q45Beast
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paid 160 bucks for the turbine revolution sensor and $164 for the Park/Neutral position switch

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94Q45Beast
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could it be possible that my battery is causing these issues (lack of power, and stumbling in all gears then stalling).....battery voltage is 12.29V without the engine running but I heard the battery sizzle, I just noticed it. I fixed the ATCU harness that was chewed....still waiting on the Turbine Revolution Sensor to come in......thinking about returning the Park Neutral Position Switch if the battery is the problem, because I did get voltage when I checked the ATCU harness....just not battery voltage.

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94Q45Beast
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Not bad.....$544 for:

$135 - Sears Die Hard Gold battery....on its way...
$55 - OEM steering rack boots
$137 - OEM Water Pump....changed not to long ago...price not including hoses and thermostat...
$125 - Turbine Revolution Sensor
$60 - OEM Nissan Matic D ATF + additive (Lubeguard)
$16 - Coolant Flush after water pump changed.
$6 - Can of Lubricant for hinges, steering, propeller shaft and other places
$10 - fuel Induction


.....still need to contact JRZ, still collecting hoses...JRZ dos makes shocks for one of the G series (can't remember which one)

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94Q45Beast
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my carbon fiber build will be lined with Aramid in multiple layers on all panels including the shell....got the contract signed today by the factory.

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94Q45Beast
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I used Performix Liquid Electrical Tape for the harness which worked great...just one more problem....I installed the new Die Hard Gold 700CCA battery and I can hear the starter engage the flywheel but the engine won't crank....while doing this I went ahead and put dielectric connector grease on the obvious visual connectors I could find....did that mess something up?....

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94Q45Beast
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Location: ATL GA

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my Q has been sitting for a month now. just doing work on it here and there bit by bit...everything checks out fine...even got code 55 on the ecu, I'm a little low on the power steering fluid but still. I'm confused, it cranks, but wont start, symptoms are exactly like I've pulled the fuel pump fuse. I had my start and starter solenoid checked last December and I can hear it turning the fly wheel. but its a constant smooth crank noise at one pitch.

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94Q45Beast
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Location: ATL GA

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my turbine revolution sensor just came in.....but I don't think it is the turbine revolution sensor...it only has on bolt hole on it.

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94Q45Beast
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car hasn't been started in almost a month, I think its flooded with fuel, will try depressing the gas pedal all the way and cranking.

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94Q45Beast
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Car started after a few tries of the gas pedal fully depressed, but A LOT of smoke from the exhaust....has a hint of lime smell....car has S**** acceleration and a big lurch as soon as it hits second gear, only drove it in my street, for a total of .3 miles.....I believe it has to be the turbine revolution sensor. I have no ECU codes....but Transmission Check still displays "A/T Check".....electrical buzzing noise when I put the car in "ON" position....and its at a pitch were its hard to tell where its coming from......FML


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