ka24de swap idles like crap. cant drive needs help( pros only)

[ryanwrx]

Something easily overlooked, try to spray some starting fluid in the intake. Sounds like you may have bad gas

[ShouldaHadaV8]

ryan ,if i wanted a dumb answer from someone driving a wrx i would have asked my brother.....go to NASIOC with that sh-t

[ryanwrx]

Sorry just trying to help

[ShouldaHadaV8]

its all good bro, i've been over the whole fuel system. these 240's have weird idle problems. im going to try regrounding everything. and im going to make sure i adjusted the tps correct. im going to post some ohm reading on different things to give everybody a good idea of whats going on.

P.S ryan if really do need to fix anything on that wrx go to NASIOC they have awesome info on those wrx's, just dont talk about going out and racing people they will ban you from the website.

[ryanwrx]

Thanks for the info but ive been in the suby forums since 02, I dont know why you want me to leave here as I just bought an s13
Best of luck with your electrical problem man, wish I could help

[ShouldaHadaV8]

WELCOME TO OUR HELL

[ShouldaHadaV8]

soooooooooo heres how it looks , maybe if i traced where theses wires went im sure they would lead me to the problem. but you can see how i tried to jump the relay with speaker wire thats the only way i get power to the distributer. Im pretty sure its this lower harness which is causing problems and may have ground problems.
If my battery isnt grounded right will it lose power, even if the terminals are both connected? if i just need to reground everything i think we may have found the problem? lets hope so

[shiro_neko]

Your pics are too small to see which terminals you are jumping in the relay. is it the lower 2 which are closest to each other? do you leave this relay jumped?

this relay is a 1 make normal closed relay. The upper 2 terminals (seperated by plastic in the middle) is what opens this relay. one is connected to your switch, the other to the ground. when your switch is engaged current flows here making contact with the ground. this will act as an electromagnet pulling the relay switch. current will now flow in the lower 2 terminals (closest to each other) so if you're jumping this one, current will still flow even when the ignition is "OFF"

poor ground wont give you enough power but will not drain your battery.

for the stalling, try checking the DC voltage of your tps. you should back probe it connected with engine running warm. stick the probe all the way in the harness as the terminals are halfway into the plug. you can use paper clips if your probe cant reach it. Im thinking its not getting enough fuel to compensate for the increasing air thats why it runs on idle and dies when stepping on the throttle.

edit:
after re-reading your previous posts you only tested the ohms of your body ground connection. you should check different parts of the engine bay including the engine and manifold. or better yet just install a grounding kit its not that expensive or you can make one if you can. Im leaning towards a grounding issue.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

alright what i'll do is take a bunch of pics. ohms readings,spliced wires, anything i notice to be a possible problem. let me know of anything i can take pics of or test to help you get a better idea of the problem.

and the relay is being jumped in all four sections, the wire is essentially two wires side by side, and im using all four ends.

i will pull the old ground wire out of my VW and reground some things.

let me know of anything you want to see some pics of.

I have a strange feeling that the relay is in relation with a few grounds which are causing my problem, and if you look at the pictures you will notice that i bought new relays but when i put them in only one worked( replacement relays are all blue) i was jumping both. i dont get why a relay wont work, because iknow jumping it isnt good, pretty sure its the whole problem because it leads to many different grounds according to the fsm. THANKS SHIRO_NEKO

[shiro_neko]

no problem, we both learn in this process. Im currently at work so I'll check the FSM when I get home. for now you can try removing your jump wire in terminals 3 and 5 and try starting. if it starts, check the wires in terminals 1 and 2. if it doesnt start, reconnect your jump wire in terminals 3 and 5 and remove the jump wires in terminals 1 and 2 then try to start. if it starts, check the wires in terminals 3 and 5. if it doesnt then you need to check all 4 wires.



relays are like automatic switches. in this case, 2 circuits run into this relay. 1st circuit is for powering a component (in your case the distributor) the second is for engaging the 1st circuit. normally the 1st circuit is broken by the relay so no current passes through. the 2nd circuit is a straight connection through the relay but doesnt have current unless a switch (ignition switch) passes one to it. when the 2nd circuit gets current flowing through it, it will pull the switch inside the relay connecting the 1st circuit then current flows through the 1st circuit to your component.

to sum it all up there 2 causes that will cause your new relay not to work:
1. there is no current flowing to open the relay switch
2. there is no current flowing in the circuit that the relay passes when its open.

[nifares240]

should have dropped a v8 from the get go!

[ShouldaHadaV8]

hahaha your funny its almost like i never made that joke before hahahahahahhahahhhahahahahahahahahahhhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

[ShouldaHadaV8]

not

[shiro_neko]

Have you tried swapping out the ECU? this other guy had relay issues and it was the ECU not the wiring. but if your wiring was bad though it might fry your ECU

[ShouldaHadaV8]

hmmmmm its possible I should prolly look up how to test the ecu, just to be sure.

some guy a few miles from me is selling ecu's for $20 and he has like 10 of them so if it is the ecu it will be a quick fix. But as good as it does work i dont think thats the the problem. although it does look like its been replaced before. if the ecu fried would it let only one system malfunction like that.
I've been thinking about just buying an xcessive intake manifold and eliminating the whole IACV. but i tried adjusting the throttle plate open before and it just didnt run right, makes me wonder if it is a fuel problem, electrical problem, vacuum problem. i need to find a vacuum diagram that explains how the vacuum system works after you have remove the egr and emissions, then i need to see if i am getting proper fuel response ( the fuel pump only works if i twist the cannon plug a certain way, for the life of me i cant explain why nothing seems loose) may have to find a donor car.
i am a certified boeing structures mechanic, i work with and am trained to read FSM manuals to repair whatever may be wrong with an airplane, and i can certainly tell you that with all the problems i cant find out how to fix on this car, the FAA would never put wings on a nissan.
I REFUSE TO SELL THIS CAR BECAUSE I CANT FIND OUT HOW TO FIX IT.

[dwclur]

I would try get a new ecu I was having the same sort of issues and there were 2 problems with mine one was the ECU and the other was the large vacume line that runs on the fire wall above the engine it was leaking and the engine would bog get angry and shut off

[ShouldaHadaV8]

In the ONLINE MECHANIC section somebody posted that because i have to slightly push the gas to start it that means its a FUEL problem. and it could make sense for the hesitation and it does bogg like its a A/F mix. first thing im going to do is buy some new hoses and a walboro 255 fuel pump. if it will run regardless of all other problems i will be happy

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Have you tried swapping out the ECU? this other guy had relay issues and it was the ECU not the wiring. but if your wiring was bad though it might fry your ECU

the other guy had a sohc to dohc swap he was using the sohc ecu. mine was already dohc, i just changed the motor.

regardless of the already horrible electrical problems like the relays and the fuel pump acting up i cant think of why my battery would keep draining???????????

i think it may all just be my lower harness, ( relays, battery wires, etc. are all coming together here) .

[shiro_neko]

I have been busy with work lately so I dont have time to help you out right now. You can try to buy EcuTalk (or something similar) which connects to your consult plug of your ECU. it can really make it easier to monitor signals going to your ECU

http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx

[shiro_neko]

you can try checking your fuel pressure fuel-pressure-regulator-t160216.html

as for your battery, is it charging? does your charge warning lamp illuminate when you turn your ignition switch to "ON". does it stays on when your car is running?

try isolating your lower harness. unplug connections that lead to other harness (refer to harness layout of FSM) then check if battery drains. if it does then the culprit is within this harness. if not re-connect other harness one by one. cant think of an easier way to check it.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

alright i've got a little bit more money to play with but, im still not sure what my biggest problem is,
I want to pretend i can just replace the fuel pump and drive. but i want know a little more about why i now have to jump the relays. I tested how the relay works and i get power to the distributer through the the 2 closest points at the bottom, but im not sure what the other circut does in the other 2 points. WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS RELAY TO ACT UP? it doesnt work even with a brand new relay, other working ones have no effect, it only works when i jump it.
Im guessing my first replacement will be the grounding kit and fuel pump.......i guess if i cant fix the wiring i'll try to just give it more fuel delivery, and im sure it needs the grounding kit regardless but i checked the engine bay, and intake mani. grounds and got no resistance.

[NISMO24096]

Hey man where in Branford do you live, Is it Hillcrest Cir... if so I see your car everytime I visit my parents...if not than there a 240 owner that has a primered up 240 that looks like yours...lol

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Hey thats funny I thought about asking you for help before ......small world. yeah thats me, i can remeber your 96 from when i was young and i saw you got a new coupe ,the rims look real good.
Hey if you get a second next time your visiting your parents to take a look i would appreciate it, you know how the car should run maybe i could show you what mines doing,
And let me know if you ever need any engine parts i got a whole extra motor tore down.

[NISMO24096]

lol yeah good deal. I will stop buy next time Im visiting my parents, which rims did you see the black ones in my avitar or the mesh rims I had on last weekend when I was over there..and as far as parts all I need right now are 370cc injectors that work...ps is your car an auto or stick, cause I have an extra lower harness for an auto..you can have it if you need it....

[ShouldaHadaV8]

yeah i like the black ones i haven't seen the mesh ones. My 240 is a 5 speed, too bad i could use a new one. Im not sure if The stock injectors are 370cc but if thats what they are and you need some i got a 96 fuel rail with injectors you can have if you need them im 90% sure they still work fine.

[vmiramon69]

did u fix it
sound like knock sensor

[NISMO24096]

I got ya, then you must have missed my last visit, I was rocking the 15x8.5 -20 offset, gold mesh wheels....lol and the stock injectors are 270cc so thats no good for me..
These are the rims I have on now....I need to get tires for the 18s had a blow out...

[ShouldaHadaV8]

So that coupe has a five lug conversion NICE.....I thought those injectors were 270 but i wasn't sure, Why do you need bigger injectors? bigger injectors means having to do an ecu tune, but you must have some work done to that thing to need more cc's i assume.

[NISMO24096]

I have a jim wolf turbo ecu sitting at the house, i can run it na until i go turbo...but i need the 370cc injectors, and i have the car pre setup for nos as well, just have not bought or installed it yet, i have all the jets installed under the intake runners though to hide everything..lol....and my old 96 ran a jimwolf 100 shot... man that car was quick with that..lol...and yeah the motor has forged internals in it now. eagle rods and CP pistons, and i hve a light weight flywheel waiting to go in as soon as i need to do a clutch change in no hurry to do it though...and on a side note do you have the rear privacy cover that goes under your rear hatch...if not I have on if you want to buy it...

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I replaced the lower harness, replaced the wires with NGK.
nothing changed the relays still dont work , and it still seems like an Air/Fuel mix problem. i dont have a fuel pressure gauge for fuel injection so it makes this another guessing game.
it could be the fuel pump ( although mine is working), more bad wiring i just haven't found, or ??????????? maybe i still need to fix the knock sensor EVEN THOUGH my ECU read 55
It idles fine but when i accelerate it boggs down and wants to die, if i let it warm up i can ease on the gas and slowly give it more and more gas but if i give it too much it boggs back down. it boggs too bad to put it in gear and drive. im thinking its either fuel pump, the knock sensor, MAF / IACV ,or the fact that i have two year old gas with 93 octane poured on top, almost 1/4 tank.
I NEED HELP IM TIRED OF THINKING, please check my other posts, and let me know if you guys can think of anything specific