KA24de 200hp?

[dmansc88]

i live in the west end of richmond near Wyndham. and yes it is a very wealthy part of town

[Nismochick240]

hp= not cheap

if you want hp, do it right the first time! i know a lot of people that use nitrous but have also blown there motors at least once. turbos are a lil more safe if you know what you're doing but here's a list of cheap stuff to help you run a lil better1. exhaust2. intake3. fuel PR/Pump4. cams 5. header 6. weight reduction (not so much gives you hp but the lighter the car, the faster it will move)

[DriftingJesus]

there is no way you can make 200whp in a KA if you need nico to ask how.

Wow the epitome of douchebaggery

I call douchebaggery on anyone that post something like that.....why cus thats what NICO was created for if you have a ****ty additude than you suck

[darklynoon]

O.K., You want cheap, i'll give you free, how about that. Most of this stuff will make you fail emissions, so be sure you dont have to worry about it or save the parts so you can undo it for your smog test or whatever test you guys, in those poor unfortunate areas, need to pass.

1. Cut out the bottom of your air box, on the long side, both long sides if you want. Not just holes in the sides, cut the whole side out, or even the whole bottom all together, of course take all those silencers and plastic tube junk connected to it also. I know I said free, but if you want to spend 50 bux, get the K&N filter, or for 10 bux, and another 20 or so, you can get the adapter plate and a cone filter. I think that actually hurts performance more, but it does look cooler. Personally, I would keep you stock airbox, cut out the bottom and at most, buy a k&n filter.

2. Disconnect your EGR valve. Pull all the hoses off the top of it, and the BPT valve (the circular duhicky thing connected to it with a short vacuum hose) You should end up having to put small hose caps on a total of 3 metal ports, plug 2 vacuum hoses, and end up with one short extra one that is no longer connected. Use machine screws that fit tight to plug the hoses if you can find the right size caps.

3. Remove your clutch fan, the one attached to your engine. I forget if you said you have a SOHC or a DOHC, but if its a DOHC with air conditioning, it'll come factory equipped with a secondary electric fan attached to the radiator. It turns on when you turn the a/c on, OR when the collant temperature starts to rise (as in will control your engine temperature as if it were the main fan) i do it on my 93 and it works great, took like 10 pounds off the pulleys and freed up a whole lotta room to work. Plus I can stick my hands in the engine with it runing and not feel like im gonna be shredded by the fan spinning

4. As i found in a previous thread, remove your AIV valve completely. Its the plastic black box on the right of your engine that no mechanic even seems to know what its function is. Disconnect the hose going from the black AIV plastic box thing to you factory air box and plug that plastic connector on the air box. Unbolt the three 10 mm bolts holding the whole unit in place. Swivel it around to reach the bottom bolt if you have to. There is an elctrical connection to the solenoid, disconnect that too. cut the main hose that bends around to connect to the metal pipe into your exhaust pipe. Pull the two small vacuum hoses off the bottom of the solenoid and plug them with machine screws or whatever you got. (make sure to label which is which if you plan to have to hook it back up) then yank the rest of that main tube (the one you already cut) off of that main metal pipe and find a hose cap that fits it, 5/16th i believe. or put a short length of heather hose on it, and try to find a lag bolt big enough to plug it, or I have actually found a rubber sink drain stopper that i could push inside a 5/16" heater hose and that works fine too. In a jam, the rubber bottom of a walking cane can work. They come in all sizes, try to find one that is suitable, and tell yer gramma your takin it before she slips and breaks her hip Zip ties will double as hose clamps just fine, just dont use the really thin ones or pull them too tight, they can also cut through the rubber depending on the type of hose. I try to use heater hose if I'm gonna rig something, specially if its gonna be touching anything that gets hot.

5. Take off you cap and rotor and sand or file every surface down LIGHTLY with very fine emory cloth or one of those big *** foam nail files your sister buys. Use the finest one you can find and just get all the white and/or black buildup off, just try to make it shiny, dont try and remove actual metal or you might make a big enough gap between the contact points that they dont contact anymore.

6. (OPTIONAL!!) While you are at the distributer, loosen both bolt just enought to turn it one centimeter or so clockwise from where its at. If you know how to time the engine, 20 + or - 2 is factory spec, which means, of course, 22 BTDC is factory spec . My car actually likes it a cpl degrees higher. like 24 or so. remember, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS mark with nailpolish or a sharpie or something, the original position, in case you **** up or if you want to set it back. make a mark on the distributor housing, and the distributer, before you change anything, and also, clean off and mark on the main pulley exactly where you want to time it to, just to the right of the last mark. left most mark is -5 degrees, red mark is zero degrees, and the next 4 marks are in 5 degree increments, so the fourth one after the red one, (also the last one) is 20 degrees.

After that, any exhaust mods, short of just hacking off your muffler, will cost a few bux. U can get a high flow cat for 90 bux, get an unflanged one and meineke will cut your old one out and weld the aftermarket one in for $50 more. U can get a cheapo pep boys 3a racing high performance one, but i have actually had better luck with the stock nissan se muffler, the one with two exit pipes. The only other free things are:1. Remove the back seat.2. Remove the spare tire3. Get rid of any passengers or luggage. Get rid of the passenger seat too while you are at it. heck, why not.4 Unbolt the 10 zillion pound rear hatch and get rid of it. 5. If you dont need air conditioning, remove the pulley from the ac unit so your engine has less resistance. Take the entire unit out if u want to save 10 more pounds, but i believe it have pipes and crap you gotta remove which may be pressurized, dunno, I'm not a mechanic

[darklynoon]

heres the aiv valve pics

[darklynoon]

here is the engine bay after removing all that stuff, i will get a picture of the disconnected egr valve if you actually need it, just lemme know

[Riley2.4L]

I like the idea of the turbo as opposed to Nos. I just prefer permanent power to temporary hp

[Bigvinnie]

O.K., You want cheap, i'll give you free, how about that. Most of this stuff will make you fail emissions, so be sure you dont have to worry about it or save the parts so you can undo it for your smog test or whatever test you guys, in those poor unfortunate areas, need to pass.

1. Cut out the bottom of your air box, on the long side, both long sides if you want. Not just holes in the sides, cut the whole side out, or even the whole bottom all together, of course take all those silencers and plastic tube junk connected to it also. I know I said free, but if you want to spend 50 bux, get the K&N filter, or for 10 bux, and another 20 or so, you can get the adapter plate and a cone filter. I think that actually hurts performance more, but it does look cooler. Personally, I would keep you stock airbox, cut out the bottom and at most, buy a k&n filter.

2. Disconnect your EGR valve. Pull all the hoses off the top of it, and the BPT valve (the circular duhicky thing connected to it with a short vacuum hose) You should end up having to put small hose caps on a total of 3 metal ports, plug 2 vacuum hoses, and end up with one short extra one that is no longer connected. Use machine screws that fit tight to plug the hoses if you can find the right size caps.

3. Remove your clutch fan, the one attached to your engine. I forget if you said you have a SOHC or a DOHC, but if its a DOHC with air conditioning, it'll come factory equipped with a secondary electric fan attached to the radiator. It turns on when you turn the a/c on, OR when the collant temperature starts to rise (as in will control your engine temperature as if it were the main fan) i do it on my 93 and it works great, took like 10 pounds off the pulleys and freed up a whole lotta room to work. Plus I can stick my hands in the engine with it runing and not feel like im gonna be shredded by the fan spinning

4. As i found in a previous thread, remove your AIV valve completely. Its the plastic black box on the right of your engine that no mechanic even seems to know what its function is. Disconnect the hose going from the black AIV plastic box thing to you factory air box and plug that plastic connector on the air box. Unbolt the three 10 mm bolts holding the whole unit in place. Swivel it around to reach the bottom bolt if you have to. There is an elctrical connection to the solenoid, disconnect that too. cut the main hose that bends around to connect to the metal pipe into your exhaust pipe. Pull the two small vacuum hoses off the bottom of the solenoid and plug them with machine screws or whatever you got. (make sure to label which is which if you plan to have to hook it back up) then yank the rest of that main tube (the one you already cut) off of that main metal pipe and find a hose cap that fits it, 5/16th i believe. or put a short length of heather hose on it, and try to find a lag bolt big enough to plug it, or I have actually found a rubber sink drain stopper that i could push inside a 5/16" heater hose and that works fine too. In a jam, the rubber bottom of a walking cane can work. They come in all sizes, try to find one that is suitable, and tell yer gramma your takin it before she slips and breaks her hip Zip ties will double as hose clamps just fine, just dont use the really thin ones or pull them too tight, they can also cut through the rubber depending on the type of hose. I try to use heater hose if I'm gonna rig something, specially if its gonna be touching anything that gets hot.

5. Take off you cap and rotor and sand or file every surface down LIGHTLY with very fine emory cloth or one of those big *** foam nail files your sister buys. Use the finest one you can find and just get all the white and/or black buildup off, just try to make it shiny, dont try and remove actual metal or you might make a big enough gap between the contact points that they dont contact anymore.

6. (OPTIONAL!!) While you are at the distributer, loosen both bolt just enought to turn it one centimeter or so clockwise from where its at. If you know how to time the engine, 20 + or - 2 is factory spec, which means, of course, 22 BTDC is factory spec . My car actually likes it a cpl degrees higher. like 24 or so. remember, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS mark with nailpolish or a sharpie or something, the original position, in case you **** up or if you want to set it back. make a mark on the distributor housing, and the distributer, before you change anything, and also, clean off and mark on the main pulley exactly where you want to time it to, just to the right of the last mark. left most mark is -5 degrees, red mark is zero degrees, and the next 4 marks are in 5 degree increments, so the fourth one after the red one, (also the last one) is 20 degrees.

After that, any exhaust mods, short of just hacking off your muffler, will cost a few bux. U can get a high flow cat for 90 bux, get an unflanged one and meineke will cut your old one out and weld the aftermarket one in for $50 more. U can get a cheapo pep boys 3a racing high performance one, but i have actually had better luck with the stock nissan se muffler, the one with two exit pipes. The only other free things are:1. Remove the back seat.2. Remove the spare tire3. Get rid of any passengers or luggage. Get rid of the passenger seat too while you are at it. heck, why not.4 Unbolt the 10 zillion pound rear hatch and get rid of it. 5. If you dont need air conditioning, remove the pulley from the ac unit so your engine has less resistance. Take the entire unit out if u want to save 10 more pounds, but i believe it have pipes and crap you gotta remove which may be pressurized, dunno, I'm not a mechanic

I wish I could agree with you, but I don't!In the process of doing half those mods (removing vacuum lines) you mentioned, you just allowed your engine to run REALLY RICH, unless you have a federally smogged vehicle,(which I don't think too many 240's were made as.) Advanced timing really doesn't increase HP but rather decreases aspiration,without properlly retuning the intake cam, (so yeah great you just increased hydro carbons).It just decreases fuel economy, and in the process of increasing fuel richness you just decreased HP in the lower RPM's. (As far as a free mod you just spent more money in fuel than being a performance enhancer, for the kind of power you THOUGHT you achieved)The only thing I agree with is your filter, and clutch fan idea. But only 1/3 of the s13 240's came with A/C, so most people are going to have to spend more money on a thermal switch, and an OEM electric fan from the stanza's or are going to have to order a flex-a-lite.While you are at it you might as well upgrade the alternator from 80AMP, to the 120amp found on most of the Nissan vans with KA24de.

But really if you want to know how to make free HP learn how to tune roms, it's not really free as far as buying chips, but knowledge is priceless.Ecu tuning and cam swapping make the largest gains in HP.


Modified by Bigvinnie at 9:53 PM 11/12/2005