KA-T Swap Pics
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king_johnthegreat
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 4:16 pm
- Car: Anything rolling fast
I know that it grounds to a small portrusion on the lower passenger side of the intake manifold, just above and behind the throttle body, and near to the throttle linkage bracket. It is drilled/tapped, and has a finger to it to prevent the ring terminal on the battery - cable from turning in the boss. I imagine that there are also a few arbitrary frame/body panel grounds along the way.John
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FriendshipRacing
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Fri May 16, 2003 10:27 am
- Car: Cars and Motorcycles are my hobbies!
- Contact:
What are you in the process of doing? I see alot of pictures but I thuoght you were going to go with an SR20 set up (according to Steve). If you need a road map, you've seen my car and how simple it was yet extremely fast/powerful etc. It seems like alot of the stuff you are using is more difficult then it has to be. Why the resistors and top feed injectors? The stock fuel rail can be easily made to work with just about any injector you are likely to use instead of going to an MSD style injector and having to fab a fuel rail. Simple is always better in my book, especially if it works. I am not a stand alone fan as you have to be very astute with their operation to get the most out of them and get them to work right. If you are this person then go for it. I have had a chance to observe the tuning of a Electromotive Tec II on a big block V-8 with an aftermarket TPI system and it was difficult. The people I was watching had access to a dyno and it seemed impossible w/o one. Keep it simple, Rick. You'll be happier in the long run. The intercooler install looks sweet. Keep me posted.
I didn't mean to sound like some kind of ***. It just seems that some people make modifications based on what is cool instead of what works. I am very happy with the simplicity of my set up and the way it performs. I am not totally familiar with all that you are doing but their are several manifolds that work probably just as well as mine and the plug and play JWT ECU just rocks. The reason I didn't respond sooner was that I was in Hawaii, Climbed Mt. Shasta and have been water skiing in eastern Oregon (tis the season for vacations). We'll have to hook up for a ride sometime soon. Thanks again for the AAC Valve!
Has anyone ever used the JWT fuel rail and had problems with it? My top-feed injector clips hit the edge of the fuel rail, and when tightened down, make the injectors lean a little and caused a fuel leak. Im about ready to send this back to JWT as I am completely fed up with their fuel rail. Anyone have any ideas?
Rick
Rick
The ECU reprogram is expensive but it is based off of what works. I am of the mind set that "if ain't broke don't fix it". The turn around time on my ECU was less than a week. Also if you change to a different program the charge is a more resonable $100. As for the fuel rail, I fabricated one from some fuel rail stock I got from Holley. Total cost $21. You might try using some spacers or modify the brackets that mount to the manifold. It is tough to see what the problem is without actuall looking at the rail. I have MSD injectors but may go with the Nismo 555cc ones just because the work in the stock fuel rail and my modified rail looks/works really well.
So, I got it fired, and its alive, runs like crap but it just needs a little work with the timing. And Ive got a horrid exhaust leak at the wastegate where it goes into the manifold, Ill be running an open wastegate to atmosphere, but at idle it is just horribly loud, I might have the gasket and ring and flange in wrong, anyone wanna go over the order of it for me?
I love turbos
Rick
I love turbos
Rick
Well, I went for a couple drives in it, and its running way way rich, luckily the standalone has closed loop lambda control, so its slowly getting better. I did notice a few problems - my turbo sits too close to my hood and it heated the heat shielding up and burned through it a little - do you guys think a heat shield on the turbo would fix this? the DP also heated up the brake system a little and the plastic resevoir got a little soft. Also, ive got a nasty exhaust leak through the wastegate, and I guess it either doesnt seal where the WG and manifold come together, or it isnt sealing. Im going to have to plumb the WG back into the exhaust I guess. Got and oil leak in a couple places I need to fix as well. I guess its just one of those drive and fix things.
On another note, I got on it a little too much in 3rd, and found out the turbo spools up at about 3.5k and my revlimiter on the ecu is 4000, I saw the boost gauge flash to a little over .5bar, and it scoots - alot
Rick
On another note, I got on it a little too much in 3rd, and found out the turbo spools up at about 3.5k and my revlimiter on the ecu is 4000, I saw the boost gauge flash to a little over .5bar, and it scoots - alot
Rick
Ditto on that, Ive never had a hybrid before, mine is a t04b s-3, and it seems to spool at about 3500, which i didnt mean to do. Although, hybrids are the best of both worlds. I chose a t04b because my car is setup to be on the track and make lots of HP in a straight line, I might downsize though for road racing.
Rick
Rick
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Tweaky_Tom
- Posts: 552
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 7:12 am
Hey guys, what's goin on. Im goin to share my ignorance with you so you'll just have to bear with me. I've been dreaming about the sr swap for too long now and finally decided to say screw it due to the #1 epidemic in america. LACK OF MONEY! So anyway, i figure, if all the bling bling ballas are swapping, where are all the ka's goin? Hmm bet they'ed be pretty cheep, dime a dozen so to speak. I figure a KA-T is my best bet. Only thing is i've done nothing but research the SR. Not the smartest move on my part but hey, at least i gradimacated. If you guys would be so nice as to explain some pro's and con's and things i need to be careful about it I would really appreciate all your help. My current KA has 140k and is WELL maintained. Change the oil every 1500miles, frequent tune ups. Ideally i'd like to achieve 400 ponies but would settle for a max of 350 or so. Fill me in if im way off basis, but if im not let me know what i can do on a budget, Thanks, <<<Tom>>>
ok, there are several kits out there for the KA such as F-max, NSport, and apex'i. all of these kits are quality that come with intercoolers and all the stuff u need to run but also run on FMUs. the NSport seems to be the kit of choice latley which has been proven to make 240 rwhp out of the box. if ur looking to make up to 400 hp the ka will beable to hold the power but u will have to move to a lower compression piston. If i were aiming for 350-400hp i would go the custom turbo kit route. it may take a little longer but is capable of the power u want. also when pushing 350 hp u r prolly gonna have to step up to a stand alone cause the stock ecu just wont handle it. also if u dont mind waiting a few months, WDRacing, a daily poster on these boards will be producing his own kits come january-febuary. u might be interested in what he is making. i kno there is a WDRacing turbo kit thread somwhere around here where u can get alotta info. hope this helps some
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Tweaky_Tom
- Posts: 552
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 7:12 am
Yeah man, that helps alot. Im not too savi when it comes to mechanics. I what goes where thats about it. When it's all said and done with im (correct me if im wrong) lookin at spending about $4,000. Possibley less but stand alones arent cheep and im not exactly installer of the year either. I looked around for some setups but got too many returns from my search. I hate to be redundant in a forum but what can ya do? I just picked one and got lucky. I appreciate your response and i am very interested in whatever it takes to get to 350-400. What's reliability look like at that much power. Probably not much of a comuter. Anyways, let me know what should work. Very open for suggestions, <<<Tom>>>
my suggestion: i would buy a basic kit with possibly upgraded fuel system and everything u need to run a turbo- larger exhaust, guages, etc. that set up if tuned nicely should deliver up to 250 hp to the wheels. this is what i plan on doing. i think the best part about a car (besides driving) is getting new parts, installing them, and seeing how much of a difference the part made. u can always upgrade and put out more hp if u desire but 130 rwhp(stock) to 250 rwhp is a big difference and im sure u will be satisfied with 250 long enough to make the money to put more parts in. Just my opinion
You dont HAVE to get a standalone to do 400rwhp, look at Jay who did 412hp and 412tq on the JWT computer (which is grossely overpriced for what you get) and Chris May did some 438 hp on the same ecu. Its possible to get that much hp out of a plug and play, but a standalone is your best bet, If your going to get a standalone, make sure it has lambda control, like mine does, the LinkPlus http://www.link-electro-usa.com/ Which im still fiddling with. Although, youll need a built bottom end and a fuel system to run that much hp.
Rick
Rick
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Tweaky_Tom
- Posts: 552
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 7:12 am
Definately. Right now im still workin on gettin the hail fixed. I just like to plan ahead. I live in Tx. U know, home of the softball sized hail. It was like 85 that day to, then by night fall...armegeddon! Im definately gonna do a stand alone and some fuel injectors before i do anything else. I wanna be safe about it. I thought maybe 550cc. I don't know what kinda stand alone though. Any suggestions there? Price? I havn't really found any places around here that offer that sort of equipment at a reasonable price.