Jareds RB20 S13 project

[JaredP]

bondo in the engine bay will crack that is a high flex area. i wouldnt do it your just waisting time.

thats why im not using bondo, theres plenty of much better fillers out there. anything by the brand evercoat blows it outta the water for sure, i've heard good things about rage, rage gold, and metal glaze, but i wanna know my other options.

also, no word yet on the coolant thing...i got a few ideas churning through this head of mine for now

[Lonismos14]

Bro they all do the same thing i used to do a lot of bodywork. 3 months max its going to crack.

[JaredP]

and i know of many people running fillers for a lot longer than 3 months in their bays and its fine. regardless, im goin the high build primer route. any bumps and s*** i cant get out i'll just live with

[JaredP]

alright, got all the welding in the bay done, and got it primered. i'll let the pics do the talking





passenger side still needs the filler sanded down, started a bit but then it got windy/rainy and i couldnt continue:


and thats it! now to just find a color i like and i can start layin it down after a bit more work

[TimTurboZ]

Looks good, why do you have the driver spring/shock still bolted in??? Also why not get the McKinney mounts? I also have heard the ebay mounts are the same as McKinney and cost like half the price. You could always sell someone that R32 crossmember. Also I would watch out for that wiring harness on the driver wheel wheel, I relocated mine to go thru that triangle hole directly above where the harness comes out into the wheel well and it still rubs...not sure if it's my tires being baloon status but just saying, wish I had the time to relocate mine thru my firewall

GL with the build

[JaredP]

Looks good, why do you have the driver spring/shock still bolted in???

coilovers are on the way, and i havent unhooked the brake line yet as i've been lazy

Also why not get the McKinney mounts? I also have heard the ebay mounts are the same as McKinney and cost like half the price. You could always sell someone that R32 crossmember.

what mounts? and i think im just gonna keep the crossmember, makes things easier. i'll get nismo mounts or make something if i need it stiffer

Also I would watch out for that wiring harness on the driver wheel wheel, I relocated mine to go thru that triangle hole directly above where the harness comes out into the wheel well and it still rubs...not sure if it's my tires being baloon status but just saying, wish I had the time to relocate mine thru my firewall

GL with the build

entire harness is getting pulled into the car, the headlight and horn wires are goin through the frame between the pinch weld and the shock tower, there will be NO chance of wires touching tire

[JaredP]

this came in today:



needless to say im f*** PUMPED! its so comfy and just amazing in every way. stay tuned as more parts should be starting to arrive. also, if tomorrow is a good day i should get some stuff painted

[JaredP]

bay is painted, will get pics tomorrow after some touch ups and wetsanding the clear

[TimTurboZ]

Also why not get the McKinney mounts? I also have heard the ebay mounts are the same as McKinney and cost like half the price. You could always sell someone that R32 crossmember.

what mounts? and i think im just gonna keep the crossmember, makes things easier. i'll get nismo mounts or make something if i need it stiffer

Look them up...sits the motor lower and further back *clears the firewall* helps balance the extra weight over the frontend to counter the understeer ppl feel after doing an RB swap. Motor mounts and transmission lets u keep stock 240 crossmember aswell. Look into them...

[JaredP]

thanks man, i'll look them up. but just for ease i have ridden in my friends rb'd 240 and it doesnt seem to have much understeer at all, and i already have the x-member. but i'll definitely look into it, and keep the ka x-member for future if needed

[TimTurboZ]

I drifted my buddies I only seemed to fight understeer once but other wise it was chill, GL for sure I want pics!

[JaredP]

pics of the bay will be up today, im goin right now to get more paint and clear and sandpaper to wetsand and finish

[JaredP]

heres the best pic i have of the paint + clear. it still needs some very minor work. its my first paint project and i messed up a bit, but im just gonna respray a spot or two, clear, then buff. i'll completely skip the wetsand as with the engine bay theres a LOT of small spots that are hard to get at properly, and it still looks good. thats also how i messed it up, it didnt even NEED a wetsand but i tried it and failed. anyways here it is:



thats the best pic to show off the color. its a brown pearl.

[djmonkee]

any word on that coolant reservoir?

Here's your coolant reservoir, works out just fine and fits in your charcoal can bracket.

[JaredP]

^^^ dude that is win!!!! for sure man, i never thought of that. i'll have to see if i still have the bracket kickin around

[coupe240sxguy]

nice job with the electrical work... I bet u got a few headaches along the way! nice job.

[JaredP]

nah electricals not bad. im not wiring the swap i was just trimming wires. a buddy of mine is doin all the wiring for the swap

[some_white_guy]

i got a pignose so my res. is on the other side on the wheel well so i dont have that bracket :/

[s13drifter88]

ive never seen anyone use the r32 crossmember. ive heard it fit and could be used but the 2 peoplke i kno with rb's used McKinney mounts. that cool to kno for sure tho coz imma do a rb20 swap in a shell just to take to the track and beat on so if i get the cross member with it i can save $300-odd and not buy mounts. for some reason i just cant beat on my ca lol

[JaredP]

i got a pignose so my res. is on the other side on the wheel well so i dont have that bracket :/

you should have that bracket, its the bracket that the charcoal canister sits in.

and yes, the r32 crossmember bolts right up to the s13 chassis. it makes the swap stupidly easy

[JaredP]

bays done!! pics tomorrow after its had some wax layed down on it.

also, got my coilovers today, stance gr+pro's:


and the collection of dope parts so far:


i just think they look great together

[Sabot]

Looking good can wait for the rest.

[JaredP]

neither can i man! still waiting on clutch, intercooler, and fuel pump. as soon as i get my clutch i can get the motor in and start getting things done quicker

[JaredP]

engine bays done! its all painted/buffed to a nice shiny finish, ready for the motor to be dropped in. now im just waiting on a clutch. reason the one side is better than the other is cuz i had to hammer out a dent and didnt want to lay a ton of filler to smooth it out/make it perfect. it is not a show car after all, just a really nice looking one (soon):





let me know what you guys think

[JaredP]

oohh updates! after waiting what was in my opinion TOO long, i finally got my clutch!

motor/trans apart:



old:


new:


also, while i was away on vacation, i decided on what color to do my interior and started with the firewall. this way i can start putting the pedals/steering column back in and can follow closely with putting the engine in! i decided on flat black cuz its easy on the eyes and gives a lot of forgiveness as far as uneven paint:


as soon as i get the engine on the stand and cleaned up a bit it'll be good to go in the car!

[zach-Ka]

Very nice. Are you gonna remove the factory sound deadening before painting?

[JaredP]

i've already removed most of it..whats left is being a major pain in the a**. i'll give it a shot but if its gonna be too stubborn then nah..not worth the trouble

[TurboSauce]

Dry ice.
removes sound deadening.
google it.

[JaredP]

tried it..pretty sure i mentioned that in the first few posts. whats left is the s*** that wont come off with dry ice. but thanks

[JaredP]

soooooooo...how to install an engine from the bottom of a car:

step 1: attach new clutch, crossmember and steering rack:



step 2: lower engine onto creeper (or other rolling thing) and move under car:

note: be sure to get thumbs up of approval

step 3: once engine is under car, lower entire car over engine and bolt in crossmember, then, using a jack, lift the car by front bumper support and support with jackstands. move jack under crossmember and lift engine/crossmember up so you can finish bolting it in.

Final product:




YUP! engines in guys. just one quick note, if i had to do it again id be sure to REMOVE the power steering pump. its a major PITA working around it and the tension rod support points. either way, got the engine in with minor casualties to the paint. some quick touchups and its all better.

next up on my list: new fuel lines, new fuel filter, new oil filter, add oil, power steering pump mod (no more hicas) and work on finding some DOHC KA power steering lines (anyone know of any for sale?)