It's done!

[Free Motion Tail]

Congrats, Bart! Great to hear it's finally in and running w/o a hitch. Give me a call some time if you're bored and wanna take me for a spin!

Mark

[Hijacker]

I'll give ya a call this weekend mark!

[slik_s13]

thanks for the reasoning indeed! non-synthetic it is.

[IanS]

thanks for the reasoning indeed! non-synthetic it is.

I would look into Diesel rated non synthetics, they have good ZDDP levels, so you wont need to add any break in additives.

[Hijacker]

Agreed. There was a thread in 240 gen about the new ASC certified oils coming out that are diong some nasty things to brand new motors.

[IanS]

Agreed. There was a thread in 240 gen about the new ASC certified oils coming out that are diong some nasty things to brand new motors.

Yah, after reading that I did a lot of digging, I discovered some pretty nasty stuff. I have the article saved if you want to read it.

[Hijacker]

I would love to read it actually!

[IanS]

ZDDP Reduction destroys engines

It was originally thought that only older engines with flat tappet cams would be effected, but now unexplained bearing failure is on the increase on high mileage engines. I have heard rumors that the change in API regulations may be in part due to an effort by the government to put emissions heavy hot rods out of commission, but I don't think this is the truth.

Most oil companies have admitted to knowing beforehand the effects of lower ZDDP levels used in older engines, my only question is, why weren't we warned.

[Hijacker]

The hot rod part sounds like a conspiracy theory to me.

The reason for the lowered ZDDP levels, as I heard it, was to increase gas mileage and reduce emissions for newer motors. What I would like to see is for the oil companies to put out a ZDDP additive that can be added for older motors to stop the negative impact.

They didn't warn us because they didn't want us to get mad before hand. Now that the new API regs are in place, there ain't sh1t anyone can do about it.

[slik_s13]

that is a very good article. im glad you posted that up. thankshijacker did you use an additive with your castrol 5w-30 for the break in proccess in your engine?

im thinking of using castrol gtx diesel or castrol tection extra guys. grade 20w-50??? not sure yet about the weight.

[IanS]

The hot rod part sounds like a conspiracy theory to me.

Agreed

The reason for the lowered ZDDP levels, as I heard it, was to increase gas mileage and reduce emissions for newer motors. What I would like to see is for the oil companies to put out a ZDDP additive that can be added for older motors to stop the negative impact.

I haven't heard anything about ZDDP levels effecting gas mileage. The API stated reason is, during combustion, some ZDDP does escape the crankcase and enter the exhaust gases, this increases emissions, and also adversely effects catalytic converters. Due to the rising cost of Platinum OEMs are making catalytic converters out of other materials. Over extended periods of time ZDDP will break down conventional catalysts, and it has the same effect on the newly designed catalysts, but at a much faster rate.

[Hijacker]

Ahh...I had read a few weeks ago that it was for mileage as well, but I coudln't refer back to the source specifically at this point now.

It does make sense about breaking down the cats though.

[homeslicej2]

What oils (other than Mobil 1 extended performance) have higher ZDDP levels?

[bgsr240]

put more of those pictures you have on here. I wanna see the vert.

[Hijacker]

What oils (other than Mobil 1 extended performance) have higher ZDDP levels?

Redline and royal purple aren't API certified since they retained the higher ZDDP levels. After reading the posted article, you could buy oils rated for 4 cycle motorcycles or diesel motors. I'm still trying to search to see if there's a straight up additive that can add back the missing ZDDP levels that doesn't cost 12 bucks.

[slik_s13]

i went to the parts store to get some diesel rated oil, rotella to be exact. and it is api serviced. does this mean that i shouldnt use it? or does it still have the right amount of zddp levels that is needed? i know the article says to use diesel rated oil cuz they dont go by api standards. it says"They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with." im just getting thrown off cuz it says on the bottle its api serviced and im not really sure what that means.what do you guys think?

[Hijacker]

Sorry it took so long to get these pictures. I was enjoying driving it too much

I still have some wiring to neaten up. Primarily for the radiator fan. It was hardwired to the chassis originally and the wires were kind of hanging out in the middle of nowhere. My wiring skills have gotten a lot better since I originally did that up years ago, but it's just been too damned cold to go outside and do some soldering. Next week is supposed to be back up in the 50s, so I'll do it then.

Tomorrow is the first 500 mile oil change and when I checked the oil the other day, the oil was still as clean as could be.

I should be replacing the intercooler setup I have for a Spearco front mount to put up under the core support. The Saab 900 IC I have has been good to me, but I don't anticipate it holding up very well to the demands of the turbo I plan on slapping on this guy over the summer.

[duffman1278]

Nice valve cover, but definitly needs to be cleaned up. Besides that, nice lookin car!

[RPS13 DRIFTER]

im going to have to rebuild my SR.i honestly dont know what im getting myself into.im going to buy that SR20 motor build DVD from drifting.com and hope i dont mess this up.any advice?also im looking for an SR FSM for whatever the DVD donest tell me.

[blinker_fluid]

Really clean... What kind of radiator brakets are those? I lost one and I was gonna make my own. How did you attach them to the top of the rad?

[Hijacker]

The brackets were hastily made. I took some angle iron, cut them to length, bent them up to match, and then drilled holes. They were never finished, though as I never drilled the holes big enough to fit the rubber insulators. I've been testing my luck for years with those brackets and not snapping the posts off the radiator end tank.

Hopefully, if I can reposition the IC better, I can move the radiator closer to the support and use stock brackets again.

And Idaho, you won't see alot of bling in my engine bay. That valve cover is about as clean and bling-tastic as I've ever had. When I redo the plumbing for the new IC, I'll be eliminating some unnecessary hoses, but don't expect me to wire tuck and other bullsh1t like that. I'm not a master fabricator, I just make sh1t that works, not pretty.

[homeslicej2]

It's purdy. mine needs to be cleaned up a bit too, esp the wiring. I just got ma Altima fans Hopefully I'll get them installed in the next few weeks. I will definitely have questions about wiring bc it seems everyone has a different opinion on how to wire them. I'll have to make so mounting brackets too.

[Hijacker]

The guy who taught me all about SR swaps wires up his fans kinda neat. He uses a subaru temp switch in the upper water hose to trigger a relay that turns the fan on. I forget the exact temp the fan kicks on, but I want to say it's at about 190 or so. Anyways, since the switch isn't powered by an ignition switched source, the fans will run when the car's not on. Mixed bag I suppose as it will help the car cool down even when it's off, but if the fans were to ever get stuck "on", there goes the battery. That hasn't happened in the 4.5 years I've been running the setup though. The only issues I've had with it are some wiring issues because my ground kept coming undone from it's crimp connector (fixed with a drop of solder of course) and I did have a switch fail on me once.

now, in a perfect world, I would have an SR style radiator instead of the S14 240 radiator I have to eliminate the upper crossover pipe and then have an 89-90 KA lower rad hose to mount the temp switch on.

[homeslicej2]

I'm just surprised you don't have overheating issues with a stock (S14) rad and single un-shrouded elec fan. I have a relay system like the dual fan one that Enjuku sells. It just kicks on at whatever temp you have it adjusted to and back off once the temp drops below that. I plan on getting a set-up like this from Summit before summer hits.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

[Hijacker]

The only time I've come close to overheating was doing an autocross in July and the ground for my fan came undone. And that was back on my old S13 radiator. The S14 rad is a slightly thicker core.

People really underestimate the cooling capacity of the stock cooling system. To top it off, the fan I'm using is the stock auxillary fan from the 91-94 chassis. Now, if I were doing long road course events, I would probably run into issues where I'm turning 6k+ rpms for lengthened amounts of time. But given what I do with the car, the cooling system works quite well and has been very reliable.

Heck, the only reason I upgraded to the S14 rad was because the upper hose neck on my old radiator broke off one day and there was an S14 rad available at the local junk yard.

[IanS]

Ive been running my stock S14 radiator for 4 years now, although I do have an oil cooler. Ive had the car on the road course with no over heating issues, I only ever turn my fan on when Im stuck in traffic or while Im letting the turbo cool. I think part of the reason many people have cooling issues, may have somthing to do with airflow.

Your engine bay looks a lot like mine, a little dirt never hurt anybody, function over form.

[homeslicej2]

I think part of the reason many people have cooling issues, may have somthing to do with airflow.

Bingo! Most people (including the shop that did my swap) Pull out their inner fender liners and the undertray piece b/t the bumper cover and the rad. support. Running a FMIC (esp. a bar and plate) reduces the airflow to the rad anyway, but with that piece missing, a lot of air slips under the rad and never hits it, causing overheating/running hot. Mine will stay under 200 in the upper rad hose on hot, humid GA summer days, as long as it stays off the freeway. When I'm on the freeway (3k+ RPM's) it will get up to 225 and I cut the heat on. I don't the A/C hooked up, but the condenser is still in place bc I plan on hooking up before summer. I'm going to put on the Altima fans and fab an underpiece like these guys did http://home.satx.rr.com/nissan...t.htm and hope that fixes the issue.

[Hijacker]

Ive been running my stock S14 radiator for 4 years now, although I do have an oil cooler. Ive had the car on the road course with no over heating issues, I only ever turn my fan on when Im stuck in traffic or while Im letting the turbo cool. I think part of the reason many people have cooling issues, may have somthing to do with airflow.

Your engine bay looks a lot like mine, a little dirt never hurt anybody, function over form.

You should have seen the engine bay before we hit it with the pressure washer. I pulled the fender liners out back in October when I swapped the siilvia front end on and hadn't put them back on because I thought the car may have gone to paint and body around new years. Now it's been pushed back to March/April, and I'm too lazy to put the liners back in since they have to come back out for the tear down for the shop. Road salt makes for a dirty engine bay.

Proper airflow is a definite must. The thing I like about the silvia front end is that airflow across the upper part of the rad is increased with the grill removed (or preferably replaced with an open air grill). Also, a lot of kids don't bleed their radiators very well and air pockets are one of the leading causes of overheating issues. Doing this moderator shtick for as long as I have, I've seen a lot of complaints over the cooling system, and usually the kid who's complaining has no concept of proper radiator care and filling. They also think that band aid fixes are the only way to make the cooling system effective.

I'm glad to hear that you've had no overheating issues for road racing. It makes me very hopeful about when I start taking my car to Summit and VIR for track days.

[IanS]

Bingo! Most people (including the shop that did my swap) Pull out their inner fender liners and the undertray piece b/t the bumper cover and the rad. support. Running a FMIC (esp. a bar and plate) reduces the airflow to the rad anyway, but with that piece missing, a lot of air slips under the rad and never hits it, causing overheating/running hot. Mine will stay under 200 in the upper rad hose on hot, humid GA summer days, as long as it stays off the freeway. When I'm on the freeway (3k+ RPM's) it will get up to 225 and I cut the heat on. I don't the A/C hooked up, but the condenser is still in place bc I plan on hooking up before summer. I'm going to put on the Altima fans and fab an underpiece like these guys did http://home.satx.rr.com/nissan...t.htm and hope that fixes the issue.

Wow, Ive never seen my water or oil temp above 200, even on 100 + degree days. I do have all the plasic pieces though, I run a tube and fin IC, and my AC is all gone.

[homeslicej2]

yeah, the autometer gauge (and sensor in upper rad hose) has read that high before (coolant didn't spew out or anything, but still too hot). I run a Koyo alum, two unshrouded elec fans (swapping for Altima's), 300zx rad cap, new thermo, fluid was filled/bled by machine, and I've followed the procedure for bleeding and bled it a couple of times myself. I think the W/P is getting weak (I asked for new one, the shop said it wasn't needed wtf?) plus the lack of ducting is the biggest. Those guys in the link saw a 20-25 degree temp drop at highway from proper ducting. It's never run hot at idle, only occasionally at lower speeds and higher RPM's (that's why I think the W/P is going), but on the highway at 65+ it'll run hot when it's 80+ degrees outside.