Is my timing off, internaly??

[S13_RB25]

Well i just rebuilt my 94 kade and i've been doing the timing over and over again and can't seem to get it right. I know that the stock ka timing is the last mark on the right on the crank pulley, 20BTDC. The way i tried recently to set the timeing, rotate to get it TDC and the rotate it back to 20BTDC. Put the dizzy in by lining it up with spark plug #1. <<<< I know thats not how its supposed to be but a person on here said to do it like that. Now I know i can adjust the dizzy but i run out of room and the timing is left either after the 20BTDC mark or before. So how can i tell if my timing is out internally. But there was a time a while back when it wasn't miss firing but the timing was i would say at 19BTDC, just a guess cause i got a basic timing light . And that time everything was the same as it is now. Also the NGK spark plugs i got from AutoZone are gapped at .44 and for the ka they need to be between .38 - .43 would that make a difference??

All the emissions have been removed and i did check for vacuum leaks, found none so what else can i do?? Please help!!

[Rev_D21]

Sounds like you are a tooth off. Time to drop the oil pump and try it again. Set the engine to TDC(set TDC before dropping the pump BTW), the rotor should be pointing to 4pm when looking at from the left fender. Have someone hold the rotor in that position while you wiggle the oil pump back into place. That should get back into the proper zone for timing.

[S13_RB25]

Wait so the rotor's supposed to be at a 4pm position, when looking from the left fender, but 7pm position when looking from the driver side at TDC?? I thought it had to be on the spark plug #1 wire??

[Rev_D21]

Right, it has to be pointing at the #1 spark plug lug on the cap. Look on the cap for a (1) stamped on it, that is what the rotor should be pointing at when you go to re-install the oil pump.

[S13_RB25]

Well the timing, internally, is actually right. But since I removed the emissions, how would I check for vacuum leaks?? I just put a screw in the hoses that needed to be blocked off. Also what else could cause a miss fire and what else should I check??

[S13_RB25]

No one?? I've put in new plugs, wires, coil and z32 fuel filter. The plugs came pre gaped at .44 and isn't the ka plugs supposed to be .38 to .43 or something?? Would that cause this problem? Also would a clogged injector cause this?? And how would i check to see if all the injectors are spraying??

But for some odd reasons it doesn't missfire after 2k rpms.

[-RJ-]

Pull each injector plug and see if there is a difference in how your engine runs. Do you have the stock intake pipe? The accordion part could have a rip in it

[S13_RB25]

RJ I do have the stock intake pipe on but with a pepboys filter . Also what's "accordion part"?? Along with that the PO lost the harness connector for the knock sensor to the main engine harness. Would that cause this problem? Or any other problem in fact?

Thanks in advance!!

[-RJ-]

Well if it isnt connected your car would run really sluggish. If your ECU cant detect your knock sensor It retards your timing so this could be your problem the whole time

is your check engine light on?

[S13_RB25]

Well my neighbor cleared the CEL and it was for the knock sensor. So would the problem still exsist, even with the CEL cleared?? Man this makes feel like a real dumbass... Lol thanks bro I'll check local junkyards for the harness connector!

[-RJ-]

Good stuff. Let us know if that fixes it.

[S13_RB25]

Well i got the knock sensor harness and put it on. Now the timing it self is dead on but it still miss fires at idle and the idle is really low, between 500-550rpms. Even on a cold start the idle drops to 500-550rpms and eventually dies. The miss fire's at idle only and it doesn't miss fire under 2k rpms, like it did before. So how would i go to adjust the idle and check for vacuum leaks??

Oh and when i unplugged the MAF sensor the idle went up for 2 secs and then the car died. Isn't suppose to die right when i unplug it??

[-RJ-]

Try spraying carb cleaner through the vacuum lines. If the car acts funny then there is the problem. My car used to die right when I started it on cold and it turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. As far as the MAF I would try to borrow a known working one and see what happens.

[S13_RB25]

The coolant temp sensor, now you are talking about the red square one, right?? Also theres no one around here that owns a 240 but would a SOHC Maf work?? I got my piggy parked right out front lol... Also just on a side note, first when I did the timing, w/ knock sensor connected, it was around 19btdc and the Rpms were still. But I listened to my friend and started re doing the timing and thats when the miss fire started again. So should i do the timing again and see if the miss fire goes away? Then I also turned the screw on IACV to left, didn't see no difference so turned all the way back to right, and after that the idle dropped down low to where it's now. So how would I know if the IACV is also bad??

What would cause a car to miss fire only on idle but rev up fine through out the whole rpm range??

[-RJ-]

Try cleaning out the iac. That would cause rough idles and stalls. iacv-aac-cleaning-and-testing-tutorial-t251133.html Here is the write up for it. Have you tried doing a seafoam treatment on the intake? That should help a little bit too.

[S13_RB25]

I'll do that over the weekend, got too much college s*** to take care of first. But do I just pour the seafoam in the air filter and let get sucked in, right?? I was also thinking about pouring some in the gas tank to clean up the injectors and fuel lines up too...

[S13_RB25]

Well I cleaned the IACV and the idle is a lot better now, stays at 850-900 rpms. But I'm still going to change the engine temp sensor. It still miss fires, it's probably with the timing, so ill redo that later. But on a side note the part on the radiator, where the upper hose connects to, broke on the rad. So now I need a new radiator.

[-RJ-]

Ouch, well if its old then why not get an aluminum one. I have a Godspeed one and it hasn't failed me yet in 3 years

[S13_RB25]

Yea I was gonna buy an aluminum rad down he road, but I guess it has to be now. Just in time for summer too lol... I was thinking about getting an isis rad. What are your thoughts about Isis??

[-RJ-]

I say why not though Im sure someone will post after me saying that its garbage. People said that godspeed stuff is crap but I never had a problem with my radiator in years

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSPEED ... ccessories


Thats the one I have but 3 years ago it was only $120 haha. But at least this radiator I can vouch for. Oh and if your budget allows for it, get silicone radiator hoses too so at least that way you only have to bleed your system once

[S13_RB25]

Thanks RJ! Since Godspeed didn't give you no problems than I can trust the Isis to do the same. Oh and I already got silicone hoses, agency power off of frsports.

[-RJ-]

Very nice, I need to get some of those haha. Im too focused on getting my car painted

[S13_RB25]

Well, RJ i went with godspeed and with 2 12' fans. All that for $210 shipped to my door...

[-RJ-]

Thats not bad, I still need to get my silicon hoses

[240man91]

did u ever regap the plugs they would cause a miss fire

[S13_RB25]

Actually i didn't -__- but i got a quick question. I've put the new rad in with the 2 12' fans bleed the system. But now every time i give it gas i can smell gas through the exhaust and its blowing a little bit of white smoke, just started today, does that mean its running rich? Also i ordered a new engine temp sensor for the ECU with redline water wetter.

[240man91]

whit is head gasket most the time but idk need more info on it when stuff runs rich most the time it is black smoke

[S13_RB25]

Well I got cometic MLS HG. But the other things I'm going to try to do are switching out the ecu to manul one and doing the timing again when my coolant temp sensor gets here... Anything else I should check or do?

Oh on a side note, is #29 the manual ecu?? And the 24 is the auto right??

[240man91]

um i will look at mine tomarrow as it is dark an raining out lol but i think 24 is the manual one. not sure till i look. an there is not coolent leaks is there

[S13_RB25]

No coolant leaks, brand new rad and silicone hoses...