Here's a dyno of carls I use for reference, this was way back in 2005
zerothread?id=133118
"not too much interms of mods:rb20dettomei 260/8.8 cams550cc injectorsgt30r turbo .63 arrun was done on 93 octane at 17psi, turbo is good for nearly 30psi i think the lean spoolup is causing the super late spool because its not really making alot of exh gas being so lean, once i get my biki rom i will add fuel there and see how that affects response."
Guess I dont have proof of a t3/t04e being able to make 400hp with minimal other mods, but seriously, I dont see why it couldnt. Carl's gt30 wasnt far off in size compared to most t3/t04e's.
Funny you mention a T04r, someone just posted one of those on SAU, 23 psi got 370rwkw (500hp). Pretty modded though. Full boost by 5500, anything over 23 psi apparently misfired.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.c...=1600
Another guy on SAU stuck a GT35R on his near stock rb20, ran 19 psi I believe and spun 293 rwkw.. Almost 400 rwhp.
If you read up on roy's setup on SAU he's running a td06-20g 8cm2 exhaust, making 260 rwkw (360 hp?), with killer response (stock intake, greddy exhaust/turbo, stock cams, stock head, unopened motor). That motor has also seen an 8200 rpm rev limit, and been running strong for YEARS with LOTS of abuse. There's a lot of raving on that site about the response of that turbo and other greddy turbo's.
I believe that anyone who's taken apart an RB20 like I have, will agree with me, this is built to be a durable motor. The rb20 has a large racing history and its standard internals will show you that, the ringlands are burly and are located way below the deck of the piston. The rods are nearly identical to rb26 rods (which have seen 950+hp and 1100+tq even with a longer stroke!), with a smaller big end. All of this combined with an incredibly short stroke insures the piston speed is low, and these components see little to no stress with higher RPM. I believe due to the low piston speed, the exhaust gas speed is slowed down which raises your full spool RPM, and your maximum torque RPM, I think this is why the motor is not quite as popular as the others. If you look at it with an open mind, what if your turbo hits full boost as late as 5000rpm (God forbid)? Well, you're blessed with a superior valvetrain that will support 8000rpm+ (stock), and you still have a 3000 rpm powerband. If you're judging a motor by its spool characteristics, consider the other factors, such as how far the motor revs safely, and how long you can consistantly see those rpms before something gives. I also never just look at how early the turbo spools, and what the peak HP is, seems thats all you ever read these days.. I'd much rather have 4000 rpms of useable power with 350 peak hp, than 2000 rpm of useable power with 400 peak hp.
Also, the head I believe is much simpler, more durable, and has far less parasitic drain than an SR head. In my experience our SR20 at school, the SR valvetrain (rocker arms specifically) cannot take much more than stock rev limit and power. If you compare the valve area between RB20's and SR20's, the RB still wins. My rb20 has a stock valvetrain and handles its 8200 rpm limiter quite well, and I'm not the only one who can vouch for this. If you think about it, The Rb20 valvetrain was used in all of nissans racing engines back then, RB20, 26, VG30, CA18.
As for aftermarket, sure, america has taken on well to the SR20 bandwagon. I for one would choose a superior design over ease of modification. SR's having more aftermarket is also only true to a point, you can find nearly any aftermarket part for the RB20, its just probably going to be a JDM brand, and probably expensive.... But those same JDM brands make just as expensive SR parts as well. The beauty of RB20's aftermarket is that its bigger brothers have tons of factory aftermarket to offer. RB26 cams degreed properly can be a great upgrade, RB26 injectors are nearly drop in, RB26 intake plenums (although require modification) make the motor much more visually appealing and easier to work on and gain some top end, rb25/26 crank/rods if you're complaining about spool characteristics and a lack of low end torque, I dont see why you couldnt adapt RB25 valves and such.
Okay okay, enough RB20 vs SR20 design and stuff... If there's one thing we all agree on, its that 99% of honda's, sound like SH1T!Absolutely TERRIBLE, Right?! But! if you've ever heard a well tuned B series honda coming at you at WOT, from 7000-8500 or so, it can sound really awesome, I mean, before it passes by and you have to hear the terrible farty exhaust noise. So there IS some good part about motors we all agree on hating... NOW, take away that one good think about the noises honda makes, and thats what the STUPID SR20 sounds like!! WTF!! And the more and more modded they get, they only sound worse!! I swear, its just a little deeper and louder, with the same crappy fart tone! It hurts my ears and disgraces the nissan name.
I'd take a 20 hp hit if I could hear Rb20 noises every time I get on it instead of SR noises. Damnit it makes me want to crap my pants just thinking about the noise.
Getting back on track, he never said anything about 400 hp. Which is why my first post consisted of my stock swap results. That swap beat 2 equally modified SR swaps by a decent margin.
I'm not trying to pick an argument with anyone, I just wanted to lay my facts on the table for the sake of helping the community.
Whatever route you choose, good luck.
-Max
PS: The RB20 sounds a million times better.