stupid rb20 doesnt make any power.

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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what a gay dyno, i hate this motor.:p


gawdzilla
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yea what a blower haha

whats your setup?

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rbsileighty
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT

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Wow... what boost... octane... etc

Nice job bud!

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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not too much interms of mods:rb20dettomei 260/8.8 cams550cc injectorsgt30r turbo .63 ar

run was done on 93 octane at 17psi, turbo is good for nearly 30psi i think the lean spoolup is causing the super late spool because its not really making alot of exh gas being so lean, once i get my biki rom i will add fuel there and see how that affects response.

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rbsileighty
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT

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What does your timing set at... might be a factor too...

driftjunke
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Definitely add some more fuel during the spool up, it'll spool quicker and make some more power. Your my hero Carl, lets hit 400. I guess before we drop the built 2.0 in we'll blow the stocker.

E

modestmouse
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Great job man. Get a video up. I've really wanted to hear your car.

Carl, I know you said what parts were on the motor but can I just have to double check something...you haven't touched anything inside the motor besides the cams right?

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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yup you read right, onlything ive swapped out on the motor is cams internaly.otherwise its nothing but a 160k mi stock *** nissan bottom end with 'low' compression (140 across the board).as far as timing, you dont want to see my timing map it will make you cry with disbelief at how much advance is in it.

Joe
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bah if that was a 25 you would make 500whp



nice numbers, little laggy for my tastes but whatever floats your boat

RB20 Mistake
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are you using anything to tune with now?

and you say you have low compression with 140 psi...what is normal?

thanks.

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rbsileighty
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT

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Over advanced timing doesn't always mean best performance... you can over advance the motor and reduce your max cyl pressure
Carl H wrote:yup you read right, onlything ive swapped out on the motor is cams internaly.otherwise its nothing but a 160k mi stock *** nissan bottom end with 'low' compression (140 across the board).as far as timing, you dont want to see my timing map it will make you cry with disbelief at how much advance is in it.

goofynick6
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Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

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Yeah, the 40-50 degrees of advance help I'm sure! haha

Nice numbers man, cams are a must for big power on this engine, as you can see here (good turbo choice helps too!). Glad to see you've gotten somewhere with it. Keep playing with it, reduce timing during spool up some and make that 400whp!

Nick

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klattr1
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congrats Carl!

what was the peak TQ and where did it occur? i dont feel like going opposite way with the formula (HP and RPM to get TQ) lol.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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rbsileighty wrote:Over advanced timing doesn't always mean best performance... you can over advance the motor and reduce your max cyl pressure
very tru, however like i said before i think the late spool is caused by the lack of fuel during spool so there isnt enough exhaust gas to get her spinning round.as far as timing goes, crazy japanese dude did most of it and its on the border line of loosing power because of advance, but it doesnt ping or knock so im not gonna complain.

Sil240
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I calculated it to be 270.9 ft-lbs of Torque, is that correct?

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Carl H
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not sure man, they dyno only spat out hp and af, but i will try to get a torque graph too as i know that is recorded.

PoorCollegeKidd
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Car: '92 240sx HB

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Me:...I.....I...love you man.Carl: You still can't have my RB

Those are amazong numbers for no ECU fiddling or "fancy tuning". I love this motor more and more.

narfdanarf
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PoorCollegeKidd wrote:Those are amazong numbers for no ECU fiddling or "fancy tuning". I love this motor more and more.
Evidently cams are where it's at for the rb20....That seems like a pretty good dyno compared to most i've seen.

sean8564
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Car: 1993 Nissan GT-R V-Spec
1991 Nissan 300ZX TT Black
1993 Nissan Silvia
1990 Nissan 240SX Coupe RB25DET

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looking good with the Rb20 Congrats on those NumbersWhat kinda FC do you have for those 550cc's

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Carl H
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even tho i have an emanage it really isnt doing a damn thing and im taking it out of the car.currently the car is running the injectors and maf off of the ecu, which i chipped to control incase the emanage failed.ive got a biki rom on order so when that gets here i will dump some fuel into the lean spot there and see how she does.the power curve is that way due to the mean timing map that is in the ecu, however it needs more fuel as you can see..........once i add that fuel i expect the spool time to drop to 4k like it should be and then i will redyno after that.......either way this should give the rb20 guys something to shoot for as all the money ive spend on this setup i could have had a stock *** rb25 :p.

heres the current tally sheet for parts, keep in mind i do all my own fabbing like pipes and what not........

RIPS intake manifold 1.2ktomei cams 560$gt30r turbo 1.2kinjectors 200$hks manifold 550$hks gate 370$rb20det clip 1.2k <-- how retarded is that; the turbo and intake mani cost more.fmic 300$

lets see what that adds up to......5580$ ive spent on this setup, not much more than an rb25 stock install.potential the rb20 has, just do it right.

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rbsileighty
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Where did you get the RIPS manifold... I really haven't heard very much about this one... might help explain the power curve's peak power rise in the rev range besides just adding the cams...

Slo_240sx
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Very impressive numbers Carl! I thought I would ever see that out of a RB20. -Alex

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klattr1
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well i wanted to see where your car makes peak TQ so i plotted the #'s and rearranged the formula accordingly to net your TQ numbers. here's what i came up with from the HP and RPM info you provided. Gotta love Excel!



what im seeing is full boost around 5100-5200 rpms and a very steady and flat torque curve from 5200-7500 rpms. it also seems like you might squeeze out a lil more HP if you take it to 8000 rpms especially if you keep your air fuel ratios consistent from then on and also keep the timing ramped there as well. it definitely seems like the cams and the intake manifold are doing their job. good choice for a motor which is geared for higher RPMS anyways.

some people will tell you that its too laggy of a setup but if you are racing someone from a roll and keep it geared down in the powerband, then you'll be fine.

now for some technical questions. whats your total timing advance at WOT in the maps? whats your injector duty cycle now? also, what did you do so drastic from last dyno at 14 psi that netted so much power difference (other than obvious working closer towards efficiency range of that GT30R turbo).

i could only imagine the power at 24 psi on 110 octane
Modified by klattr1 at 1:09 AM 8/30/2005

RB20 Mistake
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where did you get your tomei cams from?

do you have a link with more info on chipping a stock ecu?

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accel junky
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Great numbers Carl!

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Carl H
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thx for the torque curve graph i knew it was gonna be a plateau but ofcourse you over did yourself and did the math.
klattr1 wrote:now for some technical questions. whats your total timing advance at WOT in the maps? whats your injector duty cycle now? also, what did you do so drastic from last dyno at 14 psi that netted so much power difference (other than obvious working closer towards efficiency range of that GT30R turbo).Modified by klattr1 at 1:09 AM 8/30/2005
not sure what the total timing is at WOT, but i can pull the numbers out of the rom image when i get home later today.duty cycle is estimated at 85-87%, still some leway but if i boost more i should get bigger injectors.drastic change made wasnt that drastic at all, just a proper dump tube to get exh. gas out of the engine bay and a diffrent filter setup.again looking at the dyno sheet if i add fuel and get afr's to around 13:1 under spool i _should_ see full boost round 4k instead of 5k, which would only make this car even more fun to drive......and you are right, while it looks laggy if you choose the right gears and when to downshift its not hard to bring it back into boost really quickly.

rb20 mistake -the cams were supplied by a close friend who pulled a few strings to get them shipped to me from japan, sorry cant say much more than that.as far as ecu tuning the basics can be learned here http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.htmlignore the z32 specific stuff (vtc release blah blah blah) but the basics are the same and the addresses for the major items are the same.i strongly sudgest going with a chip tune over any kind of piggyback system, as when you get to a certian point with a piggy back you are fooling the ecu so much that you will be losing power because you arnt in the proper spots on the fuel/timing tables.i just ordered a bikirom from bad biki at http://www.bikirom.com, i urge you guys to look into that over a safc or emanage or even a standalone like the AEM or PFC.for the 260$ the biki rom setup costs it rivals that of any piggy back and EMS that cost 5x the price, just need a laptop with a usb port and a wideband to make sure afr's arnt too lean.

rbsileighty -the RIPS manifold is a custom deal made by a shop in newzeland, was pricy but it cleans up the engine bay and with the short runners hypotheicly increaces top end potential.he can be found on skylinesdownunder.com alot and has made a few manifolds for the rb20's that are stateside (yellow4g63 and myself have one).

RB20 Mistake
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Carl H wrote:rb20 mistake -the cams were supplied by a close friend who pulled a few strings to get them shipped to me from japan, sorry cant say much more than that.as far as ecu tuning the basics can be learned here http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.htmlignore the z32 specific stuff (vtc release blah blah blah) but the basics are the same and the addresses for the major items are the same.i strongly sudgest going with a chip tune over any kind of piggyback system, as when you get to a certian point with a piggy back you are fooling the ecu so much that you will be losing power because you arnt in the proper spots on the fuel/timing tables.i just ordered a bikirom from bad biki at http://www.bikirom.com, i urge you guys to look into that over a safc or emanage or even a standalone like the AEM or PFC.for the 260$ the biki rom setup costs it rivals that of any piggy back and EMS that cost 5x the price, just need a laptop with a usb port and a wideband to make sure afr's arnt too lean.
thanks for the info carl... I have a question about this biki rom though. I went to the website and it looks like this kit is almost plug and play... meaning there is no required soldering of a zif socket on your stock ecu. Is this correct?

Thanks again.

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Carl H
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almost plug and play, you will need to have your stock rom removed from the ecu, any competent vcr repair shop can do this for you if you are not comfortable removing ICs from a board, shouldnt cost more than 20$ its cake walk for them.just get a socket put in and you will have to fab up a jumper harness to connect the biki rom to the ecu but again, nothing too hard.

SeVa-S13
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Don't forget your TPS problem. I'm sure that helped a little bit...

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Carl H
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yeah, it did make it alot easier to drive as well as make more power......its nice not stalling out at every stoplight now.


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