Interesting OIL development for winter and beyond

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Chingon
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PalmerWMD wrote:Its not bad oil as an ACEA A3 rated oil, in its price class I prefer others but you can use it fine.But since you have it, no reason not to use it.Its not extended drain capable due to too much VII's.

Fred...:)


What does that last sentence mean?

It says it meets sl/sj/cf and japanese valve train wear, as well as engine protection requirements of ISLAC GF-3, Porsche, BmW, volvo, and m. benz. Thanks for the info. We are finishing the seafoam tomorrow, so the engine will be kinda clean.


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PalmerWMD
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The spread in the 5w-50 is pretty wide, the more multiviscosity character is very high.

to make an oil spread from 5w all the way to 50 needs a lot of Viscosity index improvers unless the base oil is <very> good.

The Syntec's base oil has kinda a low innate viscosity index so it needs extra VII's to get that much spread.

If you leave such an oil in long (say 4000 miles) those VII's will break down and cause varnish in your engine.

Fred...:)

Chingon
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wow...varnish after 4k miles...I wonder if I should trade in for something better...what do you recommend?

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PalmerWMD
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In some ways its a real good oil though, just dont leave it in too long.

Fred...:)

Chingon
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hey fred have you heard of castrol slx 0w-30 or rs formula 10w-60 (full synthetic), or roshfram 20w-50 for that matter? They seem to be good oils and relatively cheap in mexico.

gsr778
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Fred. You never cease to amaze me. Anyways, being a college student and having no money (big shocker), I recently buckled down and had to put castrol gtx 20w-50 instead of the usuall M1 0w-40. And i must say that the gtx is is a very good oil for being non-synthetic. So thers my plug for the castrol gtx 20w-50.

Nathan
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Hey Fred, I dont know if you've addressed this before but what's your take on Royal Purple? My local Nissan dealership just started carrying it amazingly enough. Might it be better than Mobil 1 15w-50 for a turbocharged engine? The racing aspect has me suckered ;)

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PalmerWMD
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GSR778:The castrol GTX is indeed among the very best dino oils out there.But your 20w-50 fill seems too thick with winter fast approaching.Castrol also makes a 10w-40 which is a fine choice for a KY winter.

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Nathan:

RP is a good oil with a strong additive package.They are kinda tight lipped about the actual nature of their base oil.

I reiterate my rcomendation for a turbo engine: M1 15w-50 in summer and M1 0w-40 in winter.

Fred...:)

Chingon
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hey fred...went to autozone today and they have both mobil 1 0w40 and the german 0w30....So what? Should I go with the german for my bro's car?

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PalmerWMD
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They are both simliar speced oils.Actually some say that the German Castrol is extra Castrol SLX being sold here ( which is not a bad thing.).

I tend to go with the thicker oil but the German castrol is more stable than the M1 both are very good oils.I'd say if you live way up north and/or run extended drain intervals go with the german castrol (pour point -62F or some such#), if you dont live so far north, the M1 0w-40 may be a better choice.

Fred...:)

PS: you checked in accordance with my instructions above its the german castrol right?Make sure you check all bottles as they sometimes mix the ACEA A1 stuff w/ the ACEA A3

Chingon
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yep...checked to make sure. Well I live in el paso tx. Doesn't get too cold, but I just want to get the best money can buy...

thanks for the reply

gsr778
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Well as many miles as drive by the end of this month or by the middle of december it will be time to change my oil again. Winter really doesnt set in till january so ill be fine for now. (watch the weather in ky now that i just said that, it might be 14 below in the next few days and stay that way till april)

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PalmerWMD
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M1 0w-40 will be just fine for a KY winter. In a Minnesota winter I would likely use the German (only) Syntec ow-30.

Fred...:)

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PalmerWMD
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ALCON,

In case it gets discontinued, I special ordered 2 cases and they are now sitting in my living room.:DAlso my current fill now is this oil.

I will use this oil until summer comes around and switch to something a bit thicker then (even tho its still thicker than all otehr 30 weights I know of, which is a couple..;)..)

Fred..:)

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99WhiteSE
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I know this is an old thread but, what is your take on the Amsoil Series 2000 Brand Oil? I have used this stuff for awhile and really like it.

Cyberkreig
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thanks for diggin this up i forgot that i wanted to ask a question

Fred, since you know so much about oils, do you know about gear oil too? I'm going to be putting in a J30 in a few weeks and I know that i want to go with redline, but i'm not sure which weight to go with or if i should use their "NS" oil or not.

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99WhiteSE
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I use Amsoil gear oil as well and it was the best thing I ever did for my five speed. It was really really notchy and then I put the synthetic in and it is a lot better now. I have heard that redline and amsoil products are very similar. I just put the suggested weight of gear oil in, I think 80w 90?

Cyberkreig
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Well redline has a specific Manual Transmission forumla "MTL" thats what i plan to put in the gearbox..

But i'm not clear on what weight/formulas work best in VLSD's.

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99WhiteSE
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Bump

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Nebraska240sx
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PalmerWMD wrote:We have lately discussed much on viscosities and base stock here:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....37349

Another interesting development in the oil scene I have been watching, but wanted to wait, until us oil nuts on the oil sites, get a better consensus going, before I report this oil here on NICO:

As we all know the Castrol Syntec line is a group III base oil and has not performed well in oil nalyses, even when compared to castrol GTX a great dino oil , with much lower price.

BUT in recent months castrol has qietly rebadged the famous EuropeanGerman Castrol SLX for US sale in a 0w-30 weight. its pour point (and pumpability) is <much> better at low temps than even MOBIL1 0w-30 despite being much thicker at 100C ( running temps).

This is likely achieved with at least a group IV more likely a group V base oil.

That would put it on a par with Redline ( group V) which is more expensive due to use of expensive base stock ( group V).

Since winter is coming and this is an excellent winter oil, I didnt want to wait much longer before I mentioned it here.

An absoutelty excellent choice for low mile engines due to its great start -up capability, but still good in hard running and its high hot running thickness for a 30 weight, means it will also do well in looser engines.

SOme may say: "Fred, wahts up you always say to stick with 40 weights like M1 0w-40, even in winter ,cuz they have good boundary layer protection and now you recommend a 0w-30?"

The solution to the riddle is, that the castrol Syntec 0w-30 is an unusually thick 30 weight,m about 25% higher hot running viscosity then MOBIL1 in a 0w-30 , actually it just barely misses being classified as a 40 weight.

At the same time it has the superior cold start characteristics of a group V so this is likely a group V oil.

Also it meets ACEA A3 some thing 0w-30's generally dont, even if from good synthetic stock.

Now Beware: very few places carry it ( usually AutoZone). many still carry the "old" 0-30 Syntec, Look at the bottle:If it says "meets ACEA A3" and "Made in Germany" its the real good stuff.Redline level oil for the price of Syntec!

If you buy the 0w-30 Syntec <be sure> its the stuff I mentioned above, as the regular Syntec ( basically same label except for the flags I mentioned) is not all that great and only meets ACEA A1 Something that can be achived or exeeced by a good blend such As Valvoline Durablend ( at much lower price)

While I will likely stick with my M1 0w-40 for now, I want to make members aware of this especially those that live in cold climates yet don't wish to sacrifice hard running protection for cold start protection.

Fred...:)


i read all of this and the other posts and and scratching my head. i just put in the recommended oil weight for the motor in my vehicle... damn i didn't know it was that important...

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PalmerWMD
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99WhiteSE wrote:what is your take on the Amsoil Series 2000 Brand Oil? .


One of the best.

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Cyber you mean the r rear diff?

J30 takes GL5 Mobil1 GL5 has the best rep among the off the shelf, but you can never go wrong with redline in a performance application.

If on a budget but still wanting a fluid you can trust, take a look at the Valvoline Durablend GL5

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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An Update:

I have been running the German ACEA A3 Syntec for 1200 miles now.(Recall I prefer thicker oils but the German Syntec (SLX?) 0w-30 is very nearly a 40 weight poil and fully 25% thicker at operating temps than Mobil1 10w-30.)

My engine was pretty clean to begin with, but inspection thru the oil filler cap shows its even cleaner now!

Any oil ,can somewhat clean, a dirty engine, but cleaning a relatively clean engine, even more, is an achievement.

I will still switch to M1 0w-40 come summer, but its becoming clear that this is a great off-the-shelf-oil and that the ACEA A3 ow-30 Syntec, is a real rival to Mobil 1 among off the shelf premium oils.

Fred....:)

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Cold_Zero
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I am getting close to my next oil change. I need to find some oil. Repoman, getting digging in my back yard!

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Cold_Zero
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Interest update:

I went to the dealership yesterday to get an oil filter for the WRX. The price went from $7 to $10. Went home and figured out why the price jumped. SOA changed up the oil filters the 02+ WRX guys need to use. New part means more money! They have gone with a smaller oil filter because the filter is located too close to the Exhaust Manifold. There is a lower exhaust manifold cover to shield some of the heat, but apparently a smaller filter will rectify the problem. At $10 per filter, I will start buying my filters online.

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PalmerWMD
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Bump.

Fred...:)

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Cold_Zero
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Thanks, Fred. This reminded me to buy some more filters.

nismodave
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Well Im gonna choose a new oil for my "new" sr20det.

I never drive car in Winter so I could use a summer oil.

Ive always ran Mobil 1 but it might be a little thin. I ran 10w-30 and 5w-30.

I might try Redline this yr. But Im not sure of best weight.

Im willing to spend for a better oil (obviously) , So Mr. Petrolium.

What are my best options For brand and wieght?

Your advice is always appreciated. :)

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Cold_Zero
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I use 15w-50 in the summer and 0w-40 in the winter for my turbo'ed car.


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