Intake manifold

General discussion area for the L31-chassis Altima, including the 05-06 SE-R models.
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VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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DrewH wrote:Especially when cold and this is a big reason for all of the oil in the IM Justin.
Oil in the IM? Whatchu talkin about Willis?

Image
Image
I posted these up for you 06ser to compare to yours.

On a related note I purchased a VMS catch can. It appears as the first gen is being phased out as the stock is limited to two colors left. 2nd gen with the evil breather filter can be aquired easily. I picked what color I thought was the lesser of two evils and may paint it if I don't like it.


06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Yes, I do have a torque wrench I've had it since my 240 days :gapteeth: I am going to pick up the air tool that you suggested as it appears I am going to need it. I was able to get the front cat and Y pipe off tonight, however I started to take off the rear cat heat shield and the third bolt is rounded off? It's the one further down in the middle, go figure. Upon further inspection I was looking at the rear bolts under the car to see what I was up against and one of the bolts is without a doubt different from OEM it's a standard bolt not metric. I'm starting to think that the cats have been replaced, which is a good thing if it holds true. The front cat is in good condition( I've been taking plenty of pictures just haven't upload yet, sorry) so I have high hopes the rear cat is in the same condition. I also received my spacer kit from NWP today and I put everything on the IM that I could with it out of the car. I still need to take the lower IM part off the motor which I will probably attempt to do tomorrow after work. My plan is to do it without taking off the fuel rails. I'm nervous about doing it though, have to be careful to protect the heads. I also still have to do all the coolant bypass fittings and
I'm still waiting to hear back from Racing Line Performance about the high flow cats and Y pipe.
I haven't given the lowering springs etc much thought. I definitely want to do it, however I am a COMPLETE noob when it comes to messing with that kind of stuff so excuse the questions please. :poke:
If I purchase lowering springs do I need to purchase new shocks?
If i purchase the BBC coilovers is that all I need? just put those on and it's a done deal nothing else?
Please take me to school. I have my pen and paper ready! :cheers:

VQ I wasn't able to get a photo of my IM like yours because I've had the VIAS block plate installed for quiet a while now, however my IM looked just like yours haha.
also if you could please post the link to the oil can I would greatly appreciate it! I'm also going to send you and DrewH a PM
Last edited by 06SE-R on Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Okay, well disregard on the PM for now. It appears Gmail is taking a dump for the time being. lol

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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I just heard back from Joe at RL. I'm not sure if I'm going to get the Ypipe from them it depends if its the 2nd version. waiting to hear back again.

I also PMed both of you

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VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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06SE-R wrote: I haven't given the lowering springs etc much thought. I definitely want to do it, however I am a COMPLETE noob when it comes to messing with that kind of stuff so excuse the questions please.
No worries. I would reccomend replacing everything since im assuming you have OEM struts and shocks on at 124,000 miles. If you had less than <75,000 you might get away with it. The lowering will place more stress on suspension components and while everything needs to be unbolted its a good time to do that. Autozone rents out spring compressors to mount the spring to the strut.

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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Can has no PM
VQpwrdSE-R wrote:No worries. I would reccomend replacing everything since im assuming you have OEM struts and shocks on at 124,000 miles. If you had less than <75,000 you might get away with it. The lowering will place more stress on suspension components and while everything needs to be unbolted its a good time to do that. Autozone rents out spring compressors to mount the spring to the strut.
That's we're the big question comes in. Do you spend the money for lowering springs, shocks/struts, boots, and strut mounts... or spend a little more and just buy coilovers. The timing of the group buy and the likely need for you to replace everything certainly contributes towards buying coilovers. I was on RL springs for a while and when my shocks/struts (shocks were going out first oddly enough) started showing signs of wear I jumped in on the last group buy and sold my springs. But there's more to it.

It really comes down to several deciding factors. Well, one factor really with the others being conditions you need to be able to accept haha. The first for me is how seriously you take the cars handling. Coilovers are more performance oriented than just springs and a big part of that is the damping. Both lower the car and will improve handling but simply put the coilovers shock bodies are designed specifically for the job. Its not all rainbows and unicorns with coilovers though. They need to be occasionally checked (preload, tightness) and anyone with them has to be okay with inevitably paying to have the coilovers rebuilt or the shock body replaced (currently $95 per body). The threaded bodies will more than likely give you problems when you try to adjust them because the real world is full of water with dirt in it. While the ride doesn't bother me it may not be for everyone. I'd say I'm pretty low and I keep the damping 8 clicks from firm and firm the ride is.

Regardless of which one you do it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace your endlinks and sway bar bushings at the same time.

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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btw 06SE-R.. If you haven't thought about it yet you mine as well start making plans to attend NICOfest at the dragon this year.

2013-nicofest-calendar-t568335.html

Last years info thread..

resort-group-rate-information-t559649.html

Last years picture thread..

picture-thred-t563551.html

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Thanks for the replies gentlemen! I'm going to go with the coilovers. Tonight was rather productive on the alti I turned my attention to getting the spacer kit fully installed. I ended up taking the fuel rail off and cleaning the injectors while I was there. I have it all back together minus the actual IM being on so only 1 spacer left to install! I also received my CAI today. I still need to order the HFPC and Y pipe but I'm waiting on 2 emails to go forward from there.
To Do List : replace belts, coil packs, PCV, take rear cat off, install coolant bypass and kiss the dog and kick the wife :yesnod

I can't make any promises at this point but, I would most definitely like to go to the NICOfest at the dragon meet

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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FINALLY got the rear heat shield off... going to grab some skyline chili then I will be attacking the rear cat




Update: 3 of the 4 bolts came off first try. The 4th not so much.. just sprayed it with liquid wrench going to let it sit for a few and of course it's under the car :facepalm:

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Okay well I decided to call it a night on the car.
I just ordered some things from Racing Line Performance
Front and rear endlinks
Traction rod kit
Battery tie down (I'm sick of cleaning the fun dip off of my battery)
HFPCs
I know that I need to replace my sway bar bushing they're nosiy as hell! am I stuck replacing them with OEM rubber ones or is there an alternative? I've been searching the internet for about 10 minutes now but I keep striking out.
The Y pipe is still in the air between cattman and RL I'm waiting to hear back from both of them. I"m leaning towards cattman though

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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You've been busy. Not that you knew but I have RL traction rods for sale. Don't listen to anything on Joe's website regarding them but this will help you with the end links..

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1661923

The 2005.5-06 SER came with Nismo sways and bushings so the OE ones are not your typical ones but they're also not anything that special either. Meanwhile there are no alternatives but in ase you were in need I do have an extra rear set.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Well the last bolt is rounding off so I'm in the process of cutting it. This may be a dumb question but, after I cut the head of the bolt off what is the best method for getting the old stud out? it in a tight spot as is and I have to basically cut the bolt straight down the middle.

Drew I'm not exactly tracking what you mean on the traction rods. Was that the nice way of you telling me that I shouldn't have purchased the traction rods because they're junk?

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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Once the pressure is off of it the remaining stud should unscrew by hand.

I meant that I could have saved you some money if I knew you were going to buy them. :)

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Gotcha. I'd say I'm 3/4 to having the bolt off.... I hope. Pain in the rear

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Just got the rear cat off! :woot: I was also able to get the bolt stud out via pliers. ( thanks DrewH!) I unfortunately have 3 bolt studs in the front exhaust manifold that I'm going to have to drill out due to the bolts breaking off while I was removing them. ( all three are clean breaks :facepalm: ) I have uploaded new pics to my Photobucket account http://s1200.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 0/library/
I also saved that link that you posted DrewH Now it's just a waiting game for the parts to come in.

updated list of parts installed:

New serpentine belt
New spark plugs ( gap to 0.44)
New coil packs
New PCV valve
NWP 5 piece thermal intake manifold spacers
New MAF sensor
Cleaned all 6 fuel injectors


Items currently en route all from Racing Line performance:
V2 Front end links
V2 Rear end links ( Aurora Bearing)
Battery tie down
Traction rod kit ( Stainless Steel)

I'm going to give Cattman a call tomorrow about the Y pipe

also what is your opinion on replacing the 02 sensors? for all 4 it would be $400-$600 ( I can't remember what they told me at the store)
I thought I should at least replace the top 2? what do you guys think?

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Update: I just purchased a set of the BBC coilovers they will be shipped on Monday. all the items from racing line performance are still enroute. Joe also informed me that he will have Y pipes available for the 5AT in 1-2 weeks. Just a waiting game now until the items come in.

User avatar
VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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Great! I bet you're amped to mount the coils up and see how it sits.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Haha. Yes I am. I'm also very excited to hear the new exhaust tone

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Update : BBC coilovers are expected to be delivered on Monday and Racing Line Performance sent me an order confirmation on Feb 28th but that was the last i heard?? I will give a few more days then shoot him another e-mail

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VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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06SE-R wrote:BC coilovers
Fixed :)

I'm jealous another slammed superblack will be running around. If only I waited 3 more months to drop mine I could be in on the group buy too.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Lol thx . It's been a looong week at work

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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VQ i sent u a pm

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Sorry for the delay. I received my rear cat on Wednesday(03/20) installed the new 02 sensor and put the cat on and put the whole engine bay back together( thanks again for the pics VQ :dblthumb: ) Installed a cosmo CAI that drops into the fender as well as a new MAF sensor. I received the front cat Friday(03/22) installed it and then unfortunately I had to put the stock Y pipe back on. Cattman nor RL has any available for the 5A/T at this time as soon as one becomes available I will get it. Fired it up everything sounds solid no weird noises or anything. I had to do the idle relearn procedure it's pretty straight forward. (see below)
After all of this I am still getting the same CEL p0174 and now a new one p0171 after talking with a few people and reading up on it some I am pretty sure it's due to installing two new 02 sensors. the CEL print out even states this. I'm not experiencing any rough idle like before and everything responds instantly, so I am really hoping that it's just the new 02 sensors. I will give it a few days and see what it does. I also changed the oil ( royal purple 5w-30) and a K&N oil filter. The car is running very solid. I am experiencing a bit of a whistling sound under hard acceleration, but I have read that this is due to the IM spacers. I have checked and double checked for vacuum leaks I can't see, hear or feel any. Overall I am very pleased with the IM spacers and the HFPCs. I can most definitely feel a large hp and torque improvement on the butt dyno :chuckle: there is also A LOT more torque steer. I am hoping that the traction rod kit from RL will help in this area. The exhaust note has changed a bit. Simply put, the VQ is more vocal. I just can't wait to get rid of the 3rd cat. The coilovers are still sitting in the box I am waiting for the rest of my order from RL to arrive before I do anything with them. It should be here monday.


Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

User avatar
VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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Sure man! Glad to be of help. Sounds like things are coming together! Man I really need to get on my spacer install. NWP announced a new HP mod on Facebook. Its been produced and in the dyno testing stage. They wont say what it's for though.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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yes, you do need to install the spacers! haha It's night and day bud. I decided to "test" their statement and you CAN hold your hand on the IM after driving around for awhile lol it's crazy. I wonder what NWP is up to... it's this exact reason that any time the mrs. asks " are you finished doing stuff to your car" I respond with "yeah... for now" :chuckle: I'm probably not going to be able to start on the suspension until Wednesday or Thursday. It was 50+ yesterday. Today through Tuesday is mid 30s and snow..... gotta love it. All this cold weather and snow better be gone before 04/01 opening day for the Reds! :woot:

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VQpwrdSE-R
Posts: 649
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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Yeah there's some snow in the forecast for drew and I in PA as well. Winters a b**** and won't let us go. I just want a 3 day weekend to take my time and have time incase some problem arises. Finish the catch can, plugs, spacers, and PCV valve. Probably end of April I will do it.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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I hear ya it won't release OH either.. End of April sounds good. Winter had better be long gone by then. If not I'm going to Fl until it is haha.

06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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Received my final package from RL today. I just finished installing the traction rod kit. I took it for a spin but I wasn't able to hit it hard due to the white death that is upon us at the moment.. I definitely like how the steering is more responsive. Sounds goofy, but it seems like I can feel the road a lot better. My plan is to tackle the coilovers, front and rear endlinks this weekend. any tips for the rookie? :ohno: I will continue to search around and read up on it.

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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06SE-R
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:14 pm
Car: 2006 Altima SE-R

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I have had that one saved on the desktop for awhile now :) Tonight I smelled coolant. poked around couldn't see anything checked the reservoir everythings good. waited for it to cool down checked the level in the radiator all is well. drove to get my haircut come back out and looked under the car and there was a small spot so i backed up got out stuck my finger in it (giggity) and sure enough fresh green coolant... put it up on ramps and I can see evidence of it leaking, but can't figure out where it's coming from. I checked all the hoses and everything seems okay. I really don't want to replace the radiator, but it's looking that way.


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