Intake manifold

[06SE-R]

What initiated this was a few things first I have CEL code p0174 fuel system lean bank 2. probable causes: low fuel pressure, blocked injector(s), large vacuum leak, MAF sensor fault.) I decided to start by changing the spark plugs. she has about 130K on the ol ticker and since I've had it I haven't changed them. ( probably have never been changed) When i clean my air filter I clean my MAF sensor so I don't think that's it. I'm not experiencing "lag" with the throttle or anything the car actually runs just fine I have noticed a drop in mileage though. I will stand behind the car with it running and listen to the exhaust and every now and then i can hear it miss I'm kinda stumped. on a side note the manifold is currently off and I thought what better time to add a few goodies. I was thinking about adding spacers. I was just wondering if there were other things that should be added / checked and or replaced since i'm there already. I am very lucky to say that I have a new DD and the SE-R can sit in the garage for however long I need it to. I'm open to suggestions for mods and most definitely open to suggestions on replacing things since i'm already there ( such as rear 02 sensor) any input is greatly appreciated!! Thanks- Mark

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Mine has 117,000 miles now. The plugs have never been changed and I'm looking to do that this spring. I just picked up NWP 5 pc phenolic spacers, you just missed out on a group buy mark. On the .org Aaron organized a group buy, I got mine for $179 shipped. Anyways I'm going to be tearing down my upper and lower manifolds down soon. I have heard replacing your PCV valves while you can get at it isn't a bad idea as it has a tendency to clog up.

[06SE-R]

I suppose that's what I get for being a stranger for so long I will look into the PCV valves. what are you planning for your manifolds?

[06SE-R]

I was just browsing on NWP's website and I am saddened to see that they don't make an EGR block plate or the Engine Torque Link Bracing Kit for us. I suppose the EGR block plate wouldn't be difficult to make though. I'm just trying to think of some mods. I definitely need to lower the front so she's not doing push-ups all the time. I also just ordered the 5 piece spacer kit from NWP. If you don't mind me asking what lowering springs do you have and did you lower the back as well? I've always drooled over your SE-R ball park figure of what it cost and did you install yourself? I've been wanting to lower my front end but I have never messed with lowering springs and i'm intimidated as hell

[DrewH]

Wow you guys are crazy with your spark plugs haha. The interval is supposed to be 100k but I did mine at 75k when I did my spacers and I noticed an immediate difference THEN.

There are much better ways to immobilize the engine and that's through different motor mounts or motor mount inserts if you only want to stiffen it up a little. The EGR block off plate that NWP has listed will work for your car as it is the same. As far as what else to do while you're in there it really depends on what kind of money you want to spend. It would be a perfect time to do RL high flow cats, install an oil catch can, definitely replace the PCV (as mentioned),and a VIAS block off plate would be the first that come to my mind.

VQpwrdSE-R is lowered on RL (Racingline) springs in the front and back. Don't be intimidated by them cause its a relatively easy thing to do.

[DrewH]

As far as taking care of your injectors you may want to consider trying this.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-91206/

I say may but from my experience and pretty much every single other person who's doing it it comes highly recommended.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Correct me if I'm wrong drew but won't the egr work for us too? The year max seems compatible but won't that throw a light if not tuned? On another forum somebody called out the 3rd gen companies Red lion racing, racingline, and NWP, keep tuned because I think NWP is currently developing one. They have something coming out spring 2013. Don't know what he's being all secretive and such.

[DrewH]

The EGR block off plate that NWP has listed will work for your car as it is the same.

Yes it will definitely work and there are ways around the code besides tuning. That said I always stress the importance of tuning when removing the EGR because it effects more than just the AFR.

Who got called put and for what part? I hope you aren't referring to the engine torque damper.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

4DZC on NC was requesting an engine torque brace for our altima. When I got my spacer kit from NWP it had an insert that said to stay tuned for new products released in spring 2013.

[DrewH]

Unless there's a completely new design and approach to it you don't want it. The only design being discussed will cause the engine to torque unevenly which will accelerate wear on the opposite mounts.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

I'm just trying to think of some mods. I definitely need to lower the front so she's not doing push-ups all the time.

I wish I would have done it sooner, ultimately it was the blown front strut and 2 years of Drew's harassment. I look back at old photos and vomit from the copious amounts of wheel gap, I'm by no means low but still functional at this height, steep driveways, killer speedbumps, and rutted intersections from hard braking semis are my threat to the y-pipe.

I've always drooled over your SE-R ball park figure of what it cost and did you install yourself? I've been wanting to lower my front end but I have never messed with lowering springs and i'm intimidated as hell

Thanks man, I've had it for 4 years now and I'm happy with where I'm at now. For a little while.

Cost: Racingline springs with shipping ~$200
KYB struts, shocks, boots, mounts $330

I had my installed by a shop as my SE-R is my DD. I wish I had done it myself for the expererience and the shops shady non posted labor costs.

My reccomendation is to spend a few hundred more and get in on the BC coils group buy and be really happy

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Unless there's a completely new design and approach to it you don't want it. The only design being discussed will cause the engine to torque unevenly which will accelerate wear on the opposite mounts.

I wasn't interested in it. The NVH from it is pretty bad from what I hear. I remember Nammy Sam dumping his weapon-r at Carlisle last year because he didn't like it.

[DrewH]

I wasn't interested in it. The NVH from it is pretty bad from what I hear. I remember Nammy Sam dumping his weapon-r at Carlisle last year because he didn't like it.

I was just using "you" as a general term. There should be no additional NVH from an engine torque damper. Its essentially a shock that slowly absorbs the engine movement. Nothing like a engine torque brace at all.

[06SE-R]

wow, thanks fellas for the info! I'm currently reading the thread you posted pretty interesting stuff in there. I currently have the VIAS block plate I would like to do the EGR plate as well but I know that I'm not going to have the time to get it tuned for awhile. ( main reason is I'm going to have to drive 2-3 hours south into KY and i work 6 days a week) those coils look nice! what is the going price for the group buy? I also pulled the old spark plugs out tonight. they were TERRIBLE! the gaps were at 0.80 compared to the recommended 0.44 racing line is "out of stock" on the Y pipe ( i have A/T ) and i've been poking around the engine bay to see if i want to attempt the high flow cats

[DrewH]

Theres a thread on the org that spawned from the one I posted about the 2 stroke oil. I run it in everything now purely for the constant cleaning and improved longevity of parts.

Post your question in the coilover group buy thread and Mike will get right back to you with an answer. I was in on round 2 of 3 and I've always been very happy with mine.

Both you and Justin are probably going to laugh a little when you start and drive the car after the plug change. That 100k interval is a joke. Sure you can go 100k but I can also wear the same underwear for 7 days.

The high flows are not necessarily hard to do. They're more time consuming than anything but having the right tools makes all the difference just like most things. Combine them with a catless y-pipe and it really wakes the car up. A word of advice though, at this point do not buy the version 1 RL y-pipe. The version 2 is supposed to be an improvement in clearance and flow.

[06SE-R]

I've looked around a bit and I am not sure how to get the second version of the y pipe. Is the one listed on their website the second version?
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/p ... ategory=19

[DrewH]

I know that all MT orders are being filled with version 2 but I don't know and haven't heard anything about the AT ones. As Justin and I know the version 1 hangs below the subframe which puts it directly in harms way. You can certainly buy a version 1 but regardless of how low you go you have to be very mindful of that.

If they still haven't released the new one and you don't mind paying for a higher quality/better designed piece I can give you Cattman's information and you can get on that waiting list. I can't speak for how it compares to the version 2 but compared to a version 1 the difference is huge.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Both you and Justin are probably going to laugh a little when you start and drive the car after the plug change. That 100k interval is a joke. Sure you can go 100k but I can also wear the same underwear for 7 days.

That's good. I wish I had done mine earlier. I miss those days back when it had 30k miles was fresh and torque steered like a SOB. I don't doubt it needs a tune up.

[06SE-R]

I'm going to go ahead and take the old cats off as well as the old Y pipe wish me luck lol

[DrewH]

I will try to find an old how to for removing the pre cats. I did mine myself but I don't feel like typing it all out again. Do you have access to air tools?

[06SE-R]

I will look for one as well. and I am new to air tools and currently don't have any. I'm not sure what's junk and what's gold any suggestions? I have an air compressor (6hp) that i picked up cheap but i've only used it to keep tire pressure in check

[06SE-R]

okay so i didn't even shake a wrench at the car tonight. Instead I went to Sears and picked up a few goodies. I purchased an Ingersoll Rand air impact wrench (thunder gun) as well as the necessary sockets and extensions for the job. mainly because of the exhaust bolts that are going to be a pain to get off and I'm tired of bleeding from my hand(s) every time I work on a car lol. I'm going to start a new detailed build thread here soon and include prices etc. I know it wasn't completely necessary ,but I did some preventive maintenance. I purchased 6 new coil packs I figured it couldn't hurt( she has 130K) and I most definitely don't want to take the IM back off because of a silly issue that could have been addressed while I had it off. There's a gentleman that works at the local automotive store that my family has dealt with for years and he gave me a great deal. I purchased the coil packs for $50 a piece. I was very pleased to say the least. If you guys can think of anything else that I am overlooking please chime in.

Just an update on where I am now.
6 new oem coil packs
6 new platinum spark plugs ( almost $14 a piece! but it's what Nissan recommends)
I have already ordered the NWP Thermal Intake Spacer Kit - 5pc it is currently en-route. It will join the NWP VIAS block plate that I already have ( still not sure if I'm going to do the EGR delete I'm going to look into it more)
Cosmo Racing CAI - en route (It tucks inside the fender. Any suggestions on an air filter? I live in OH so I'm not too concerned about water.)
I am waiting to hear back from Racing Line Performance on purchasing the High flow Cats and the Y pipe and I'm still shopping around on options for lowering it.
I am also going to order a new MAF sensor






Thanks, Mark

[DrewH]

Do you mean PCV delete or EGR delete?

[06SE-R]

PCV is what I was thinking ,but I meant EGR hmmm lol

[DrewH]

I either accidentally mistyped the acronym or it autocorrected me. Its PCV and I wanted to clarify that that's what you meant because deleting it is an awful idea. Install a catch can instead because the PCV serves a very important role on the engine.

[06SE-R]

I copy. thanks and I'm having one of those moments haha. I'm just trying to get all of this straight before I really tear into it.

[DrewH]

Ok, that's good to see.

To do the high flow install you're more than likely going to need one of these or something small just like it to cut the heads off of the lower 2 bolts that connect the rear precat to the exhaust manifold. That always seems to be the stumbling block and this makes it a 5 minute job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-hig ... 47077.html

Deleting the EGR will cause two things to happen immediately. The car will see lean because of the added oxygen and cause the ECU to compensate. So right off the bat your AFR is being effected. The second is that cylinder temps will rise thanks to the missing inert gases. Combine that with a possible lean condition that causes a further increase in combustion chamber temps and you have a potential recipe for disaster.

AFRs that are too lean or too rich cause their own respective problems and is the reason why sometimes untuned mods will actually cause a decrease in performance once the ECU relearns engine parameters.

Pay very close attention to the condition of your precats when you remove them to be sure that there isn't any "missing" material that could have been ingested by the motor.

[06SE-R]

I copy, thanks. I worked on it a little tonight I have 3 bolts left on the Y pipe and 1 left on the front cat I haven't started at all on the rear cat. I decided I needed to take the Y pipe off to get to the last bolt on the front cat due to the Y pipe being in the way. ( swivel wasn't working at all)
I stopped because my neighbors have a new born and it's about 9:30 here. I know that I am going to jinx myself but so far none of the bolts are giving me too much trouble I sprayed some pb blaster on the remaining bolts and I will try to spray them again in the morning before I go to work. this air wrench gun is awesome! haha I am going to pick up a cut off air tool like you suggested just in case. I also purchased a new Belt. I didn't buy a new one for the power steering though.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Ok, that's good to see.

To do the high flow install you're more than likely going to need one of these or something small just like it to cut the heads off of the lower 2 bolts that connect the rear precat to the exhaust manifold. That always seems to be the stumbling block and this makes it a 5 minute job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-hig ... 47077.html

Deleting the EGR will cause two things to happen immediately. The car will see lean because of the added oxygen and cause the ECU to compensate. So right off the bat your AFR is being effected. The second is that cylinder temps will rise thanks to the missing inert gases. Combine that with a possible lean condition that causes a further increase in combustion chamber temps and you have a potential recipe for disaster.

AFRs that are too lean or too rich cause their own respective problems and is the reason why sometimes untuned mods will actually cause a decrease in performance once the ECU relearns engine parameters.

Pay very close attention to the condition of your precats when you remove them to be sure that there isn't any "missing" material that could have been ingested by the motor.

Good info on the EGR Drew I never knew that.

[DrewH]

I copy, thanks. I worked on it a little tonight I have 3 bolts left on the Y pipe and 1 left on the front cat I haven't started at all on the rear cat. I decided I needed to take the Y pipe off to get to the last bolt on the front cat due to the Y pipe being in the way. ( swivel wasn't working at all)
I stopped because my neighbors have a new born and it's about 9:30 here. I know that I am going to jinx myself but so far none of the bolts are giving me too much trouble I sprayed some pb blaster on the remaining bolts and I will try to spray them again in the morning before I go to work. this air wrench gun is awesome! haha I am going to pick up a cut off air tool like you suggested just in case. I also purchased a new Belt. I didn't buy a new one for the power steering though.

No need to worry about jinxing yourself. The roadblock you're more than likely going to run into was already waiting for you haha. An impact gun is an AWESOME tool and further reinforces the expression the right tool for the job. That applies to air tools in general. If you keep modding your car you after this is all said and done the cutoff wheel could have other uses so its a good investment. If I were you I would definitely change both belts. Piece of mind, cheap, and you're already in there. Before I forget I wanted to make sure that you have a torque wrench? You're going to be dealing with a lot of aluminum and its very easy to over torque and possibly damage it.

Good info on the EGR Drew I never knew that.

You can definitely delete it and with good reason but I just wanted to stress the importance of tuning. Any mod that effects how air gets in or out of the engine will effect the AFR. The ECU does have the ability to make changes but because it doesn't understand what's different it can send the car lean or rich at different RPM. Just for an example there's a guy on NissanClub that had no idea how lean the car was at high RPM and he fried the rings. A lot of the time the car will default safe and runs full rich. The problem there is cylinder wash down and you end up with contaminated oil in the crank. Both lean and rich will lead to oil consumption.

The guy on NissanClub made a big modding no no but I mention it because its what running lean can do. Most untuned modded cars tend to run rich which is less dangerous to the motor as long as you keep oil in the car and change it regularly. With all that said its kinda funny to note that Nissans typically run on the rich side straight from Smyrna anyway. Especially when cold and this is a big reason for all of the oil in the IM Justin.