INJECTOR LEAK*

[comatoseculture]

Okay, let me get this straight, you want to pay a mechanic to help you fix a problem and you didn't disclose all information pertaining to the repair? And if he follows the logical thought process and assumes what you yourself assumed you will then --- laugh at him???---

So in fact you don't want it fixed, and you have simply given up?

And replacing all $400 of things does not make sense. the O2 sensor should be replaced. not the tps not coolant temp not fuel pressure reg. (assuming you've tested fuel pressure??) if not ask the mechanic to test pressure. after you laugh at him that is.

[Purple240]

watch the mechanic figure out his problem. then see who's laughing. hopefully he wont charge you much.

[liquid_cool]

change the O2 man..its a 15 buck fix...try that before spending gobs at a shop.

[Purple240]

Aren't O2 sensors more like 120 bucks?!?!? by the way i was buying something from this guy he had listing in the classifieds and he told me hes been banned for getting sassy with a mod.

[liquid_cool]

Aren't O2 sensors more like 120 bucks?!?!? by the way i was buying something from this guy he had listing in the classifieds and he told me hes been banned for getting sassy with a mod.

dunno about the banned part...but i payed 15 bucks for my O2's..if your payin 100+ for yours..you have been F*&% with out a reach around.

[Purple240]

lol that's a real nice way to put, i don't know how you got an O2 sensor for 15 bucks but you got some real good deal. after you said that ive been searching online and there all 100+ .

Ive been reading on this because i have the same problem. and i emailed this guy and he told me what happened with his car. Also asked me to post this up on here for him. which i guess is OK... sorry if i did something wrong admin.

He says, "

-----Original Message-----From: [email protected]: [email protected]: Fri, Oct 2, 2009 4:49 pmSubject: Your injector leak.

Took the car to a mechanic i knew down the street. he told me what i already knew. said it was a code 45 injector leak* I told him everything Ive done. The mechanic said my computer needed to be reset. I kinda looked at him funny. Because Ive been resetting the thing like CRAZY and the light keeps coming back on. I asked did he GUARANTEE me that the light would not come back on and he said i guarantee it. So i let him have his way with it for $120.

I got the car back and it still ran the same; start up good cranks right up above 900 then lands to 750 and idles good. The car idle speed will drop down to 400 rpms and then bounce back to 750 when you press the clutch in coming to a stop WHILE THE CAR IS STILL COLD. After the car has Fully warmed up it will not do that. (this is after i replaced the injectors with the new ones i got) Bouncing i mentioned earlier idle was gone by now.

But he magically got the light to stay off! WTF!?!?! I asked him how, what was wrong? what did he do? he wouldn't tell me, just gave me some crap about how you need to reset and let it relearn. Well that's exactly what Ive been doing!

happy that the light was gone, I went to tuck my ecu back in when i noticed something, there's electrical tape rapped around some wires going to my ecu. I took it off and saw a bunch of stripped wires (like 5 or 6) connected to one black wire, i don't know if it was like that before. but it didn't really look stock. I quickly tore apart the harness to look for some nipped off ends off the remaining wires but i couldn't find anything. I couldn't even find old stripping or pieces of wire or anything....

I became suspicious and went to go check if the engine light was still working and It does still light up with the key in ON position. I don't know what he did. but the light is off now and continues to stay off. So i guess he fixed it... just not so satisfied with the answer he gave me....

Could you post this on the my old thread for me? Thanks, i hope it helps you Mike. "

[liquid_cool]

im wondering if the guy found a bad injector wire and replaced it for him..lol..that would suck to pay 120 bucks for that.

[Purple240]

lol that would but why wouldn't he tell him about it then.

[locoluna825]

soooo i took a real good look at my ecu wiring it looks very odd... its got a couple sets of wires bundles together and clamped to one black wire and some more wires that are attached together but there color code doesn't even match... and there's alot of sticky electrical tape.

No colorful or cheesy crimps on the wiring there brass clamps instead, and i cant find any clippings or extra pieces of electrical tape around on the floor in my car.

Im really not sure if this is stock would anyone know if the harness is supposed to looks like that? dam i wish i had my other car still so i could look and compare. it bugs me so much that the guy never told me what he did.

[92240SXNY]

You should take a picture of the wiring you are referring to. The mechanic may have just jumped out the electrical circuit that detects a leaking injector causing the light to go out and stay out. He most likely didn't fix anything but I could be wrong.

[locoluna825]

im afraid of that because the car runs the same as after i had replaced the injectors nothing is different besides the light not being on. i will get a picture up so you all can see what im talking about

[locoluna825]

well ive been driving the car around as usual, these last weeks. The other night my engine light came on it was on for a very short time. so short i couldnt get home to check what it was. But as soon as the engine light turned off my idle began to stay high after pushing the clutch in. about 1100-1300 then SLOWLY back down to 900 or 750. Will not do that at start up but only after revving the car or coming to a stop while holding the clutch in.

Tonight it went back to its usual self. dropping slightly below 750 then returning back up to 750 like it has. Then the Engine light came back on but this time i was able to check it. Its CODE 45*...

This s*** is getting real old...

[moso]

consult cable?

[locoluna825]

I think i might just pick up a Federal/non california type Ecu...

[locoluna825]

My engine light only seems to come on after ive taken the car through a significant changes in altitude. comes on for a very short while. Same code... Then it turns off. and wont do it again till i take the car down the hill again.

I fixed my idle issue today. The Thing I mentioned much earlier in this about how it drops low and come back up to normal range.

I took out the IACV and replaced it with another one I had cleaned before hand.Wooo should have done that a long time ago. doesn't do that any more. Im still adjusting everything trying to get the idle back to 750.

[bladetech8]

Man what a roller coaster.. lol this thread is very interesting for some reason.. Glad you've made all this progress..

[vancouverbc]

Injector leak code just means too much fuel for the ecu to compensate for. ie inadequate spark could trigger the code. Obviously there is no sensor in the injector to detect leaks.

[locoluna825]

yeap your right. the only thing monitoring something like fuel and air would be something like the O2 sensor. Haven't tried replacing it yet but i eventually will...Makes me think the FPR may be going bad as well.

[locoluna825]

So, Ive changed out my O2 sensor, made no difference. The LIghts still on.

My temp sensor has been acting up latly. It would go totally cold on the gauge if i accelerated past 3000 rpms. So i took a look at my temp sensor. It seemed to be almost broken at the top of the sensor, and the wire was all old, corroded and cracking open. I bought a new temp sensor. Installed it and repaired the connector to the wire. Fixed that problem. But all of a sudden the engine light kept turning on and off. Like it does right after the Relearn function resets itself.

The light has been on for 4 months now. and occasionally turns of for about a day then returns and stays on constanly.
But its now off and has been off for a total week. Wierd as hell right? I think i need to be looking into my wiring hanress...
Why would it turn off now after i touched the temp sensor???

[shiro_neko]

So your problem is just the CEL on injector leak? but you no longer have an injector leak. did you try erasing the self diagnosis memory according to the FSM?

and about the ecu harness. if its a black wire then its just tapping to the body ground.

[locoluna825]

Yea I have had an Injector Leak code, but i really didnt have all of the syptoms of when you really have an injector leak. It used to hesitate and the idle would drop low and bounce back. But i fixed that by cleaning my AICV. Then i fixed that temp sensor and all of a sudden it went away. Yes i have tried clearing the memory. Ive even switched the ecu out with another ecu, that pulled the same code up while idling in the drive way a few seconds after installing it.

[shiro_neko]

so what other symptoms are you experiencing after these fixes?

[locoluna825]

no syptoms of an injector leak at all after i cleaned the AICV. Just the Dam light wouldnt turn off.

[shiro_neko]

check your O2 sensor if its functioning properly (even though its new) or what it is reading:

use ECU mode I. green lamp should blink more than 5 times in 10 secs @ 2000rpm when warm
green should be on or off in open loop and blinking in closed loop.
red should be off in open loop except CA. on in closed loop if check engine light items are stored. off if none.
if the led does not blink check the o2 sensor circuit

go to ECU mode II to check for mixture
if red is asynchronous with green lamp (between 5% rich and 5% lean)
if red stays off (5% rich)
if red stays on (more)

also read the voltage of your o2 sensor and try to seafoam it

[shiro_neko]

I forgot to ask, how did you erase the memory. the fsm says you should warm engine then disconnect maf and run at 2000rpm for 30secs. stop engine and reconnect maf. make sure code 12 does not show. then erase ecu code normally. make sure code 55 is displayed. then race engine as ff:
1. start engine and warm it up.
2. race engine higher than 2000rpm under no load.
3. keep engine at idle for 10 secs
4. repeat steps 2-3 at least 10 times.

make sure CEL doesnt come one during racing

[Blitz671]

Haha talk about bringing this back from the dead but I'm also battling this injector leak on my ka24de for a few months now.

*UPDATE* Clear the self learning data per the FSM and it should work. It's been over 100 miles since I did the procedure and no CEL, hopefully it stays off.

[rwlesher]

you gotta be extremely careful installing your injector orings i went through about 6 kits from improper installation.if the inner o rings burst they saturate your plugs, rough idle, if the outer rings bust ur valve cover, hood and intake mani get saturated, which can catch ignite. also check ur plugs if they foul out your car will run like shiit
thats on a de btw im not familiar with the kae