INJECTOR LEAK*

[liquid_cool]

I understand the KOEO test, the 2nd test listed above doesn't make sense to me. Crank it over and see if it sprays fuel? Its going to, it just doesn't seem like a relevant test.

the test is to see if the injector under the prime condition dumps fuel..as it should not spray a drop when priming the injectors...if you see fuel being dumped..then you know an injector is stuck open or failed...now for the cranking part...injectors spray in the firing order..you can watch the pattern and notice if there is an abnormality...this is allso a way to see if one injector is NOT spraying..like when the ecu injector block fails..the test is fast and simple..no complicated equipment needed..simple tools..and your eye's.

[liquid_cool]

k guys, i got tired of waiting for the plug harnesses, and i didnt buy a new TPS sensor. so i installed the intake to injector seals AND GUESS WHAT...... The DAMNED engine light turned OFF!!! i cant believe it turned off. like its staying off!! ive been driving around for about 50 miles now and its still off, it didn't stay off that long before it would come back on wAAAAy sooner than that like within less than 5 miles of driving.

~So the engine light is off.

~On a cold start up the cars idle does NOT stumble.

~But it still drops low from revving it then it returns to normal idle speed

~But no more stumbling or low idle drop while driving and pushing the clutch while nearing a stop anymore.

Anyways im very happy, im going to install the plug wires harnesses when they get here anyways because the old ones need to be fixed.

THanks guys for your input~!f***ing cars

Modified by locoluna825 at 8:29 AM 8/29/2009

glad ya got it fixed man..like i said a few post's back..thats the most common problem with that intake...if you have anymore issue's down the raod..let us know..there is an army of niccoheads willin to help.

[locoluna825]

im just so stumped on how it knew that, but it makes sense considering this whole issue came about when i had washed the engine while it was hot with a pressure washer 2 months back. i bet i had damaged the seals.

[s13_maJiK]

now for the cranking part...injectors spray in the firing order..you can watch the pattern and notice if there is an abnormality...this is allso a way to see if one injector is NOT spraying..like when the ecu injector block fails..the test is fast and simple..no complicated equipment needed..simple tools..and your eye's.

That test seems kinda messy( fuel spraying everywhere). When you could just pull you injector wire off while the car is running and see if the rpm drops, if it does its working if not its faulty.

[locoluna825]

false alarm the engine light finally came back on i don't know why now, but the car still running fine, replaced all the injector wiring harness plugs with the new ones i got in the mail yesterday, still nothing im pisssseeedd im taking it to someone im done playing with it ive done everything that i can do. thank you guys for your help anyways i really appreciate it. its just one of those things....

Modified by locoluna825 at 11:07 PM 8/30/2009
Modified by locoluna825 at 11:08 PM 8/30/2009

[liquid_cool]

dont give up..cars are a learnin experience....take a step back..and a deep breath...now lets trace the code...your code if i remeber rite says "leaking Injector"..now you fixed the leak at the injector seals to the manifold...but..when you pressure washed your car..did you create a leak at the intake manifold gasket by spraying part of the gasket away?..thats allways a possibility..specially where the 2 parts of the manifold combine with each other...that gasket is a cheep paper type...there is lots that can go wrong with a car bro..but when its all said and done and running like a dream,and you made it that way...its so gratifying!..keep your chin up!.

P.S. clear all your codes by disconneting the battery and steppin on the brake a few times before reconnecting it..then run her..if the light comes back on..check for a new code...and get back to us here..mybe another niccohead has some more info on your issue.

[locoluna825]

im just really frustrated with the car at this point and school has started again and i don't have time anymore i have no choice but to take it in to someone.

i know the problem is somewhere around there every time i play with it the car does something different. ive got it running almost normal the idle is good, no more revving up and down.

Although when the engine light is on and when the car is still kinda of cold and pressing in the clutch near a stop the idle speed will drop to about 400 then return to 700.

when the car is fully warmed up it will not do that any more or even when the engine light is off the car will not act like that at all even when cold. but the idle speed when the engine light is off is around 900 rpms.

sooooo many different things happening. i do like your thought on the intake mani gasket, that is possible since when the car warms up it would create metal to expand and close any kind of gap making the car act normal again.

[Kon036]

Check your FPR and see if there is fuel coming out of it, sometimes it might go bad and allow some fuel to get sucked into the intake manifold. PCM might see it as an injector leak.

[locoluna825]

fpr? there shouldn't be fuel coming out of anywhere, Ive made sure of that nothign smells like fuel idling or while driving down the street.

[liquid_cool]

sounds like its running good...what he means by checking the FPR is to see if the diaphram is blown and fuel is being sucked into the vacume line and into the intake many...i dont think this is your issue..but you can just conferm that by unhooking the vacume line and priming the fuel pump..if no gas dribbles out..its fine....i would still sugest that you clear the codes thou...they dont just go away after a repair..you have to clear them..clear em and get back to us bro if they come back..that way we can at least conferm there is still an issue.

[locoluna825]

lol i still don't know what FPR means what does it stand for. and the damn engine light turns on randomly now stay off for a while turns on for a bit maybe longer sometimes its really annoying.

OH do you mean the fuel pressure regulator? the thing at the end of back of the rail? that don't sense though doesn't explain why the car runs normal after its warmed up if it were ripped it would be doing that all the time cold and hot

[liquid_cool]

fuel pressure Regulator..ya your rite..it would be doing that cold or hot..but its best to check off things as you go to narrow down the possiblilitys...teching someones car over the internet is difficult to say the least!..so more information is better than less...it just gives the niccoheads a check list of whats not bad ...and maybe..it will just come to a niccohead in a flash,what your issue is....

[locoluna825]

ok ill do that and ill umm wipe the codes on the computer too. but when you guys talk about checking it do you mean just rip vacuum hose off of the fpr and turn the key to on position. and then check for leaks coming from where the hose went.

[1991SE240SX]

well.....i have a s13 coupe w/ a DE(93k orig miles),auto trans and i been having the same problems with mine. it drove like a brand new car for the past 7-8 months and then out of nowhere i got the same symptoms as stated by the OP in the 1st post. i have the same 4-5 code and evrything. mine will idle low at stops and if i dont hold the gas pedal to about 1k.....it'll stall out. i get a real violent shake, black smoke out my exhaust, and even when im driving at a steady speed-it drives the same as it idles. what i mean by that is....say im goin 50, RPMs are 1500 or somthin like that, then ill watch the needle drop to almost 0. I floor it and rev up real hard and it'll go away for a minute-but doesnt stay away long.

i have a spare DE in my garage out of a s14 w/ 100k orig miles on it and i thought-y not switch out the entire fuel rail assembly from the 14 onto my 13? so i did. didnt think id have to change to o-rings(considering i didnt remove the injectors from the rail). It helped but not for that long....its back again. No smell of gas or anything under the hood....but i did notice when switching over the 14 rail assembly, that the FPR vac line look like shyt(all cracked and dried out).....would this make it do all that??

i replaced the manifold/fuel rail grommets to(with s14 ones). And even after it idles crappy and stalls out(has actually stalled 4 times back-to-back at one time) it drives like it wants to be a non-VTEC,single cam honda or something. its annoying. i just want my friggin car back to what it used to be. thanx for any input or help with this.(sorry OP-not tryn to jack your thread bro)

[locoluna825]

no i like your input the more we get the better lol,

ive been thinking of just going and buying a brand new set of injectors installing them and seeing what happens. if the problem doesn't go away im a return them.

i was sitting there last night listening to the sound of my engine and listening to each injector. each one makes the ticking sound but i discovered that the one that used to have the bad harness is making a strange different sound than the rest. sometimes it ticks at the same pace as the others and then it sounds as if its ticking much faster and is much quieter and then it goes away and starts to tick norrmal again. I can barely here but it might be something

Modified by locoluna825 at 9:39 AM 9/3/2009
Modified by locoluna825 at 9:40 AM 9/3/2009

[1991SE240SX]

kool man. yea-i tried to listen for the clicking sound on each one myself....but i have that gawdy timing chain rattle so thats all i hear. haha. Dude at auto zone told me to unplug each injector harness and see which one doesnt change the idle....and that was my problem or something like that. Anywho.....i did that and he's smokin crack or somthin cause injectors 1-4 all did the same thing.....made the idle drop low as crap and the engine started shakin pretty hard. plugged it back in...and idle went back up to where it was prior to me unplugging it. Im prolly just gone replace evrything from the pump up to the injectors and hopfully that does somethin. besides the crappy FPR vac line.......could a junk fuel filter be a culprit??? lately....all the symptoms have been the same but instead of the 4-5 injector code....im getting the 5-5 evrythings "ok" code

[locoluna825]

Srry havnt been on in a while our internet has been down for 3 days now . Is your model a Califronia or Federal model 240? the federal models i guess do not monitor the injectors like the california models. they also dont monitor your egr equipment like the california model does. The codes just dont exist.

By the way I took my car to a friend of ours that know how to diagnose the problem He is absolutly sure 99% he says that its one of the injectors doing that. he had it for the hole day drove it around. he says he also tested the injectors and got the same results as i did. but he aslo told me it doesnt mean there isnt something in one of the injectors fiddling around makin it flash a code soemtimes and not toher times. So im going to be playing "guess who" tomorrow with the last three injectors, i already know its noth the first one....

[gingerbredman]

I'm a moron.. it was the plugs.. I guess the injectors leaking caused the plugs to foul out, which they were. Replaced them and presto.

[OutToWinPAHC]

lol fuel air spark

[locoluna825]

Guess what.... it was an injector. ive been working my way down the fuel rail this month replacing each one trying to figure out which it is. i did the 1st injector=nothing. i then proceeded with the ones making different noises. 4th injector=nothing, 3rd injector=BINGO! it was the third injector. light turned off within about 3 minutes of driving the car and as soon as the rail got all the air out of it it started to run real good. soooo much smother on idle now, cant even hear or feel the car almost feels like its off idles perfectly at 700 + or - 50. this happened about 3 days ago. i didn't want to say anything officially since last time i thought i fixed it i really didn't.

[91white_ka]

For future refference any one who is dealing with a leaky injector of sort should... Remove the rail and put a paper towel under it.

While running unplug each injector one at a time and see if you notice a difference in idle

Check all injectors with an ohm meter

After "fixing" the problem clean or replace both spark plugs and o2 sensor, as yo should do anytime you have been running rich because the foul out and on't work properly.

PS this was a long thread, I didnt read everything so if I stated something for a second time please just take it as confirmation.

[japam]

baaack from the dead. I did a search and found this thread. I'm having a problem with my cylinder #1 fuel injector. I replaced it with a refurbished one and it ran fine for a day. The next day the same exact injector went bad again. I'm going to get another one on Monday (hopefully they have another one in stock) and see if it works. My question is, if the "new" injector goes bad again, what could be causing this problem? My buddy said it could be a short somewhere...what else could it possibly be?

[locoluna825]

wow that sucks i don't know what to tell you about that. have you ever had work done to the engine wiring harness??? Also make sure your fuel pressure isn't off the frits, should be about 42 pounds. Run a voltage meter to the harness where it connects to the injector and make sure there all the same voltage.Do you have any current mods to your vehicle?

Since this is back thought ide tell you all that i went ahead and bought a set of 4 refurbished injectors from GB, came with seals and warranties for 100 and a 38 dollar refundable core charge. cant beat that for the price.

http://www.injectorwhse.com/se...etail

[japam]

nope never did anything w/ the wiring harness. I'll check those out either tomorrow or monday. I dont have the tools to check the fuel pressure or a voltage meter so it'll have to wait. And nope, my motor's pretty much stock. 4 for 100 is pretty damn good. I got ONE for 40 bucks and lifetime warranty.

EDIT: btw, do injectors between the ka24de and single cam? Because the guy told us that the injectors were the same exact part number for both.

[locoluna825]

nope there not that guy was wrong they are different in between the SOHC and the DOHC which do you have?

[japam]

I have the DOHC. Well on the receipt it says 91 nissan 240sx fuel injector and 91s were dual cam...we'll see how it goes. If the new one ends up not working again then I'll just get a refund and buy a brand new one.

[locoluna825]

before you intall another one i would check out yoru fuel pressure and signals you getting fomr your ecu to the injector(the harness plug). if there is somethign wrong might ruin another one...

[locoluna825]

Guess what.... it was an injector. ive been working my way down the fuel rail this month replacing each one trying to figure out which it is. i did the 1st injector=nothing. i then proceeded with the ones making different noises. 4th injector=nothing, 3rd injector=BINGO! it was the third injector. light turned off within about 3 minutes of driving the car and as soon as the rail got all the air out of it it started to run real good. soooo much smother on idle now, cant even hear or feel the car almost feels like its off idles perfectly at 700 + or - 50. this happened about 3 days ago. i didn't want to say anything officially since last time i thought i fixed it i really didn't.

I kinda didn't want to say anything but shortly after that post my engine light came back on again. . I gave up on it and ignored it.

I broke down and Just bought a brand new set of re manufactured injectors got them in 4 days ago, they came with new seals, So i lightly lubed them installed them and The light never went away. thought maybe it needed some time, well i gave it time it never turned off. So i turned it off. and it came back on very shortly after.

The code is still a 45 injector leak* well im done messing with seals, wiring harnesses and injectors, you guys read everything ive done and i don't think i really skipped over anything on the subject either.

Im tripping out why im stilling getting that specific code. DO any OF YOU know if there something else that would cause that because frankly im stumped and worn down over this thing. ONE thing did come to mind though.

What about the fuel pressure regulator?

[moso]

ok loco im just taking a wild stab in the dark but here goes. anyone know how the ecu tells if an injector is leaking. a leaking injector should not change the resistance it creates in the circuit so how dose the ecu know its bad. my guess O2 sensor. injector runs rich, ecu tries to lean it out, cant accomplish this task because the injector is leaking, ecu throws injector code. so what if your O2 sensor is bad and stuck reading rich, could your ecu interpret that as a bad injector? would it cause a lean misfire? again im just guessing but its better than nothing!

[locoluna825]

yea i was thinking its something else as well... the only way to kill everything at once is to replace the TPS sensor, temperature sensor, Oxygen Sensor, the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the fuel pump.

that's a gonna be about 400 bucks in parts there soo yea im tired of dumping money into a car that just gives me problem after problem. I contemplated selling it last night and just drive around our Autotragic 5.0 convertible mustang god i hate that car.

I just took the car to a mechanic this morning, watch him not figure out whats wrong with it. he'll probably call me back try telling me its the injectors. ill tell him there New and LAUGH. then he'll try telling me its the seals And ill laugh once again and tell him Ive replaced them 4 times. I wonder what hes gonna come up with...
Modified by locoluna825 at 3:51 PM 9/30/2009