Ignition Coil Relay

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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Nismo1182
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Whoa just caught this thread kinda late.

But yea, CA wires up like the SR.

Double check your AFM wires. If they are good, try another AFM or use your KA one.

As for the tach, find a HUD twin cam S13 at the junkyard and use that cluster.

I was lucky like float and got a 9k rpm tach :ylsuper


Zushi
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hey, well my AFM wires seem to match up. i tested the voltage of the AFM like in the manual(b term. to +ve, c term to -ve, and d term. to multimeter. when not blowing my voltage is about .78, it said it should be aprox 1...is that close enough? my engine doesn't run good enough for me to really see if when i disconnect my AFM if it runs better. but then again, im trying to do it by myself(starting car then running to engine and try to do it all before it stalls out, because my engine is hardly staying alive). Hrmmm.. about the tach..i have the JDM cluster, how can i wire that in? Thanks.

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float_6969
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In regards to the AFM I would reccomend dissasemble it and clean it very will with some carb and choke cleaner, retest and report the results. Your result of .78 sounds too low to function properly. As far as the tach goes, you can put it in and it will work, but it will read in km/hr, your HUD won't work and not all of the warning lamps are the same. I would seriously recommend getting a JDM HUD gauge cluster and swapping the tach. I love that 9grand Tach, hehehe.

Zushi
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Hey, if my AFM really is ****ed up...if I disconnect the battery for awhile(to reset the ECU) and unplug my AFM, should my engine run better(and start better) or would it still act as if there was a bad AFM. I ask this because when I disconnect the AFM my engine doesn't start any better than it did when it was connected, maybe slightly(but really its hard to tell if there is a difference in my case since the engine hardly stays alive). Well, let me know. Thanks.

boost_boy
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Well, disconnecting your AFM should make your engine start alot better if something was really wrong with the AFM. You obviously have another problem if this isn't working. Furthermore, you may want to try another ecu to see if this isn't the problem. But if your ecu is giving you a code 12, your afm circuitry could be burned and it will never run correctly. Unless you really know the wiring or did the what I told you to do by inspecting the ecu connector to see if a white wire isn't disconnected, the you are shooting in the dark.

Zushi
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hey, about that white wire, do you know what pin it is? that would make it easier to check. well see the reason why I had suspected that I would need to add an ignition coil relay was because I got this problem before and I looked at the wiring diagrams and noticed that there was an ignition coil relay which controls spark and the AFM. but when you guys said you wired it up like the SR without having to add anything, that ruled out that. Know any way of testing the ECU? Let me know. Thanks.

Zushi
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I checked the wires coming out of my ECU. the only white that isn't connected is one that goes up to the instrument harness. its a thicker gauge then the other wires but Im not sure what its for.. that the one youre talking about? hrmm

Zushi
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man, i pulled out my ecu to check the circuitry on it... on my circuit board in my ECU, the circuit for pin 45(ignition On switch signal) is blown. thats the b/r wire that goes up to the ignition coil relay. i figure thats it. heh. or could just a switch On signal not cause that big a problem(since its only to switch on) or, is it a "spark"signal. hrmm

boost_boy
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Noooo man, there is no white wire that runs to the instrument panel wires. There are two white wires on the ecu harness that are of significant interests and the most important one is the AFM wire which is pin #15 on my FWD application. Check your manual for verification on yours. This white wire needs to be connected to the engines harness point blank as it is the AFM's signal wire. Again, there should be no loose white wires near your ecu.

Zushi
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hmmm, on my RWD model there is no pin 15. to my AFM i only have a b/w, b, g/b, g/y. and like i said the harness that is supposed to connect to the instrument harness has a white wire on the ECU side, but of course there isn't any white wire to match it with on the instrument side. Did you see what I posted about my blown ECU. I'm pretty sure thats it..you think? let me know

boost_boy
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Could be blown, but I also do the RWD cars as well and can definitely say that there is a white wire on yours for the AFM, but you need to find where it was cut from which probably inside the harness somewhere. Take some pics of what you got and let me see. The color codes between the FWD and RWD are nott o different except for some of the external pieces, but the rest are the same such as the CAS, AFM and power transistor. I still think your car is not wired correctly or your ecu wouldn't have been blown. I see too many guys on the forum with electrical problems and most of them stem from the way the ecu was manipulated via afc, vpc's, etc by the previous owner. And when the car was scrapped, the owner removed the devices and left the wires cut, leaving the new owner not a clue as to who's what.

Zushi
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hey, what do you need a pic of? AFM, ECU? So you have a white wire that connects directly into the AFM? Or where does it go? I couldve blown the ECU by trying to add in the ignition coil relay, sending the charge backwards to the wrong pin. let me know what pics you need and i can take them no prob. thanks

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Nismo1182
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Theres a white thick (shielded) wire for the AFM coming from the ECU and goes to one of the 2 wires (not the ground ones) on the AFM.

Zushi
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what ECU pin does it connect to though? 15?

s13sr20chris
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you wont blow an ecm by sending it too much. you would have grounded something in order to burn it. check for ground/shorts in your harness. i promise, nissan ecms have resistors in every circuit for diag purposes.

s13sr20chris
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it just occured to me. the power transistor may be the "ign coil relay" that your book refers to. the ptu is a high speed switching device that functions like a solid state relay. it outputs directly to the coil(s). most important, that sounds like japaneese english(or engrish as my japaneese buddy says).

boost_boy
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Quote »you wont blow an ecm by sending it too much.[/quote] You will blow it if you put 12volts on that white wire as it's circuit is not designed to handle this much voltage and amperage.

Zushi
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Well, the ingition coil relay that i was referring to was one of those green relay plugs that are in the fuse box next to the battery. I had an Ignition Coil Relay in my JDM fuse box, but not in the US model 240sx. Say I tried patching into the ECCS relay and the corresponding wires of the Ignition coil relay, couldn't i have blown the ECU? Since one of the main wires that runs from the Ignition coil relay(B/R) was the pin that was burnt on my ECU? Myabe i had the relay set up so instead of relaying power it relayed ground...or something. Not sure. I'm going to try and solder my ECU back up and see if it hels at all. We'll see.

Zushi
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Hey, that white wire, where does it come from and where does it go? i'll try to find it. you said a pin 15? I dont have a pin 15. The only white wires coming directly out of my ECU are a pin 23(knock sensor input) and a pin 29(oxygen sensor input) and those are both connected. and out of my AFM there is a black connected to the insulated wire(to pin 60-ground), a green/yellow(to pin 38-throttle position sensor potentiometer...?), a black/white(to pin 59-battery from ECCS relay), a black(to pin 26-air flow meter pin be...ground?), and a green/black(to pin 27-air flow meter pin a). no white.

s13sr20chris
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boost_boy wrote:You will blow it if you put 12volts on that white wire as it's circuit is not designed to handle this much voltage and amperage.


yeah, different voltage is course no good. i was speaking in reference to amps. he seemed to be refering to current flowing backwards or something. it does not accept more amps than it needs. it draws amps from a voltage source. the way to burn it is to ground something where the ecm is outputting a current. you are right about 12 volts to a 5 volt circuit though.

boost_boy
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You may want to refer to an FSM manual for the RPS13 sylvias and 180sx as it is obvious that some of the colors between the FWD U.S. pulsar CA18DE and the RWD CA18DET are different. Most people here with these motors use standalone systems and it 's not that many (maybe 2 or 3). If I had the vehicle in my presence, it would be a piece of cake to solve your mystery. But your computer does sound like it's toast.

NeedCAforS13
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boost_boy wrote:RPS13 sylvias


SILVIA Dee!!! (and a minor note RPS13 = hatch with SR20... go find an S13 or RS13 manual if you want CA info;))

Sean

Zushi
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man, i resoldered the circuit that blew but now I noticed that when I plug my battery in(regardless of whether or not the key is in the ingition) my dash board lights will come on(battery light, oil light, seatbelt light...etc) and I can't get them to go off without unplugging my battery. I can't honestly say if I remember if they came on before(i guess i didn't pay that much attention to fine detail before) but think that is due to the circuit i blew(ignition on switch signal) or think somethings shorted elsewhere...if so..any idea where it could be shorted(what wire controls the dash board lights like that). any ideas?

Zushi
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well i checked my plugs and their always wet and a bit black.. i dont know if theyre all sparking or not as its hard to tell unless someone is there to turn the key for me but im guessing there isn't a spark since my engines not turning. any ideas of how to test the ignition wires? know which wires to test voltage and how much they should have? let me know...thanks.

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float_6969
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Since I installed mine by myself too, I kinda understand what ur going through. What I did when I was having problems with no fuel/spark, was instead of trying to start the car and look at the plug that i had pulled out, I pulled the CAS and just turned it with my hand to see if it sparked.

boost_boy
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Here's my suggestion, your ecu is screwed; and this I know because I accidentally let an injector wire ground against the intake manifold while the car is running and guess what, I can't cut the car off unless I either unplug the ecu or unplug the battery. Just get another one as the repairs is not worth it. Classic burnt ecu.

Zushi
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did your problems fix when you through a new ecu in? hey, just by manually cranking the CAS you can get spark? didn't know that. i could try that...except, id have to put it back in the same position. heh. any ideas of where to find an ECU?

gani
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you need an ecu here is one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...66364

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float_6969
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eBay, or the B/S/T forums here.

Zushi
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Hey, would a ca18det ECU out of a 180sx be the same as one for a ca18det Silvia? Is anything different between the pop-ups and stationary lights? let me know


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