IACV Valve clean problem. Seems like getting no gas. Please Help!

[schanne]

Check engine light not on. Did remove tps and it dropped in rpms and idled a lil rough. Do I need now to replace the MAF? I did upgrade to the z32 maf. But I'm going to unplug the battery right now. Whats my next step guys?

[IanS]

yes that is the IACV, the issue you are describing fits the symtoms of a MAFs to a T, pull the MAFs housing off and look through the little hole, is the sensor still intact, if it is then it may just be dirty, spray some electrical parts cleaner or MAFs cleaner into the sensor. If that does not help, check the MAFs wiring, when you were messing around with the IACV it is possible that you may have moved some of the MAFs wires causing a short or an open in the circuit. Have you tried to pull codes from the ECU, there is a good chance with an issue like this the ECU has recorded one or more DTCs and they should most likely lead you in the correct direction.

[chicos240]

Get some brake cleaner and clean your MAF.don use gumout...I know you are a junkie...

[carbully]

Hey, if you upgraded the MAF, any chance you still have the old one to slap in and see how she does?

[schanne]

I attempted to pull codes off my ecu but it's a J4. Could not find a screw to turn to save my life. So I need to pull the air filter and MAF off and clean it out. No more gumout (ever)and buy some new plugs tomorrow.

[IanS]

wait, did you upgrade the MAFs without re tuning, if so there is your problem right there. You cant just slap a new MAFs on and expect the computer to adjust automatically. If you havnt retuned, put the old MAF back on.

[schanne]

no, old one was said to be no good

[schanne]

Car is not retuned and has run ok with the z32 MAF. Did run rich... Is that for shore the problem?

I havn't had the car tuned yet. Enthalpy can't tune because my j4 ecu. I'm thinkin jwt can't either. I need to get to CFT in orlando, but I'll be spending what I don't have right now. I can just buy a damn used stock MAF and should be ok?
Modified by schanne at 9:19 PM 11/8/2007

[schanne]

which one is the damn stock MAF?

[IanS]

get a factory KA24E MAFs, they are pretty common in boneyards, Im suprised the car ran at all with the Z32 on a stock tune. Before we do that lets start over, Im a little confused, what all do you have done to the car. What motor do you have, and what mods are done to it.

[schanne]

S13 Blacktop Type X. Type X ECU, FMIC, Alluminum pully's, Koyo Radiator, Greddy Airinx Air intake, Z32 MAF, Stock turbo and injectors, Metal head gasket, Ebay BOV, 3" down pipe all the way back... Just bolt ons. Motor is rebuilt but stock internals other than the cometic HG. I'm getting a ride to work this mourning, but right now the MAF is off and is dirty inside. It is like an oily residue. I need a picture of the middle inside piece so I can compare it to something.

[IanS]

the factory ECU will not work with a Z32 MAFs, you need to switch back to a factory MAFs

[carbully]

I just don't understand why yesterday the car ran ok for him with the Z32 MAF, and now after cleaning his IACV now all of a sudden he has this problem. Unless it has been SOO rich up until now that sending the gumout through it was finally enough to foul his plugs. Even if that was it, he just cleaned his plugs, so he should be back to normal now.

Something changed when he cleaned his IACV last night...

[carbully]

SideWays, that screw you remove to perform this cleaning, it's not an adjustment screw, is it? I mean, do you just tighten it all the way when you are done, or does it have to be set to a particular setting??

[schanne]

Ok, I didn't have time to get to auto zone to get MAF cleaner, new plugs, nothing. I probably wont be able to get a new MAF until monday. Now the car did run real rich if that helps. I currently have the MAF off and would like to know what my next step would be? I know I need to replace the MAF asap with stock size. Change plugs to either NGK-BKR7ES11 or BKR6. Going to replace fuel filter just for ***** and giggles. You guys are the **** for helping out!! Seriously --- Nico is da bomb!

Edit- I also have a AFC neo

[schanne]

Here's a nice dirty ****. I mean MAF

[carbully]

I don't really know whereto point you next. These guys seem to think it's a good idea to install a stock MAF. I think that if the MAF you have been using was working good enough to drive the car before you cleaned the IACV then it should be working good enough to drive the car after the cleaning.

You sure your settings haven't changed on your AFC NEO, right? I mean, I think SOMETHING must have changed!

[IanS]

Ok, I didn't have time to get to auto zone to get MAF cleaner, new plugs, nothing. I probably wont be able to get a new MAF until monday. Now the car did run real rich if that helps. I currently have the MAF off and would like to know what my next step would be? I know I need to replace the MAF asap with stock size. Change plugs to either NGK-BKR7ES11 or BKR6. Going to replace fuel filter just for ***** and giggles. You guys are the **** for helping out!! Seriously --- Nico is da bomb!

Edit- I also have a AFC neo

ahhhhhh

you can run the Z32 with an SAFC, you had failed to mention that you had an AFC earlier, either way though, the symtoms you are listing fit a MAFs problem, I would start by cleaning it, also, try adjusting your idle, although the level of the idle should not effect the rev limit.

[schanne]

Just cleaned the z32 maf. About to reinstall maf and hook up battery cable. Question is do I need to redo the afc mods? And also can somebody tell me PLEASE what the best settings are for my afc neo? I really did search and found nothing that would help me. I havn't got a different maf yet. SoInstalling NGK Iridium IX BKR6EI-11New 300zx fuel filter(purolator)

Can someone please help with afc settings.... Tunning for me=

[IanS]

for right now, leave the AFC the way it was, if the car ran with that setup, it should run again, if you switch back to a stock MAFs now you will have to re tune the car. I would try and walk you through the tuning, but I have never used an SAFC, Ive only dealt in standalone, I are piggyback tuning super newb.

good luck

[schanne]

Last night car had same problems. New plugs, cleaned Mafs and still won't rev past 2300 rpm. I hate the sounds it makes, when it leans out its the worst. I need to get my neighbors voltmeter and check TPS right now. I had a guy that "said" it is the Idle speed control motor. There's a needle that goes back and forth and it is now clogged. I can't find anything about it, so it's maybe just for Ka. I'm thinking now that because the motor ran rich for 6,000 miles, the carbon built up was so much that it blew into some bad places. How does that sound? I'll be checking **** for a min.

[IanS]

Check MAFs and TPS voltage, also, check for ECU codes.

[schanne]

Just installed the ka24 MAFS and have the same problem- I know I still have some work to do with tps voltage and ecu codes, but thats the update for now.

[schanne]

Ok, new mafs and air intake back on. When I first start the car and give 50% throttle when I crank it, it will rev up to about 5000rpms now. but then it just dies. it sputters and shakes, then dies. If I give just normal gas it barely idles and dies right a way. Do I need to change some settings on my AFC-neo?

[schanne]

and I can't find the way to check the J4 ECU codes....I just unplugged the ka24 maf and nothing changed. same with the z32.
Modified by schanne at 11:05 AM 11/15/2007

[240trackjunkie]

Fwiw, I cleaned my iacv last week and it took a good 10-15 min of messing with it before it would idle on it's own again. Had to give full throttle to start then feather the throttle for a while to keep it from dying. The whole time my wideband was reading 18+. No problems since.

[schanne]

Major help needed now. I Received ECU codes 12 and 13. MAF + Coolant Temp. Sensor. Ordering the coolant sensor, but I rewired the MAF to the ecu and really no change other than a small tick sound when you plug the MAF in. Still can't rev past 2400 rpm.
Modified by schanne at 8:44 PM 11/15/2007

[carbully]

Umm, ok I am really grasping for straws here, but try running a jumper wire between the ECU and a good ground, see if that changes how it runs. I think that's really strrange for the ECU to start throwing codes like that. Also try grabbing jumper cables and running an extra ground from the battery to the block with them.

Probably not going to help you any but I really hurt for you, so I am throwing anything I can think of out there!

Whe it does run, at low RPM, does it really feel like you are running on all 4 cyls?

[schanne]

No it doesn't feel like all cylinders are working. I'll be regrounding the ecu tonight and get a compression test tomorrow. Does any one know if I can use a ka24 temp sensor on the sr20? Now carbully, are you telling me to reground the actual ecu or just the Maf ground? I'm going to do both right now.

What else can I do guys?

I'm checking TPS voltage and the voltage does not change at all when I open throttle. I had a mechanic tell me it was bad once(he probably got same reading I did) so I replaced it. Are the wires and/or pins not connected right?
Modified by schanne at 1:42 PM 11/16/2007

[carbully]

I was talking about the ECU. Something that would affect the readings of multiple sensors. A bad ECU ground will affect the voltage that the ECU thinks it sees from ALL the sensors. So can a bad engine ground, so by connecting jumper cables between the neg term of the battery and the engine block you are making a new engine ground.

Are you reading the TPS voltage at the ECU?