
I've read about people using 1/8" or 11 ga steel; that should do it for you.bigbadberry3 wrote:I know I ask a lot of questions but it's only after I search. I'm about to attempt some frame rail welding,1992 240sx hatch, and have read not to use a gauge thicker than the frame frails thickness as this actualy weakens the rail. Unfortunately, no one actually ever lists a gauge but most commonly say either 1/8 or 1/16 thickness. Does anyone know what the actual thickness is on the drivers side frame rail? Thanks.
tmwnn wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-D ... 209wt_1165
just wondering wil this differential drain plug fit an s13? Its for an R200 but for a a 280z...
Thanks speedeast you are alwasy answering questionsspeedeast wrote: Should be the same, but get this one to make sure:
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/ka24.html
Scroll down until you see it.
I wouldn't assume that.Mitchum wrote: My car is an LE so im assuming is has an both a VLSD and ABS.

that's the plan, but there is no shops around here so for now im looking for a decent paint until i get the cash to send it away. i was looking at a cheap powdercoating kit from harbor fright. i think it was your build thread you mentioned you had one maybe? if it was, would you recommend it? its the one for $69.99speedeast wrote:Why not go with a powder-coat? That picture probably is a powder. I would want the durability.
The one I got was $40 I think. I wouldn't recommend that route, mine has already pooped out - wouldn't coat my brake calipers properly.KYZAAC wrote:that's the plan, but there is no shops around here so for now im looking for a decent paint until i get the cash to send it away. i was looking at a cheap powdercoating kit from harbor fright. i think it was your build thread you mentioned you had one maybe? if it was, would you recommend it? its the one for $69.99speedeast wrote:Why not go with a powder-coat? That picture probably is a powder. I would want the durability.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/instal ... uster.htmlhatedinthemind wrote:If I want to switch from a digital cluster to an analog cluster all i need is the cluster and sub harness right?
If the pick-up isn't properly sealed to the block, it will pump air through the crack before it pumps oil. Just $0.02TroubleBound wrote:I FINALLY found out whats wrong with my sr. While it was running i popped the oil cap off and the little oil squirtie lines weren't squirting. There was an oily film on the inside walls but you couldn't actually see the oil moving around in there an stuffs. SO my next question is what part would most likely cause this? I am going to check the oil strainer/pickup thing by dropping the pan today i guess itll look busted if it is? And if its not, what else should i check?