I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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speedeast
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^By "no gas" do you mean no throttle, or no accelerating?


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PyR0NiAk
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Were rpms rising, staying the same, or climbing?

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OutToWinPAHC
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Yeah sounds like a stall not a slipping.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Check your engine grounds... that crap used to happen to me.

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speedeast
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^Also, it's a stretch, but make sure your battery terminals are clean.

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KYZAAC
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Car: 92 240sx SR

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could someone please explain to me how to remove the ka power steering pump pulley before i go crazy. i bought a 4 pack of jaw pullers, then realized they only bend the pulley, then i ordered the other type of pulley set for power steering pump pulleys and the pulley doesnt have the slots for the collar to grip too so that doesnt work either, i tried beating it off/prying but basically just made a mess of the pulley. im not using this p/s pump, im using as a test piece before i change the pulleys on my sr.
these are these are the pulley tools i have
Image

Image

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speedeast
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I would use the puller that only has two arms...

Image
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SREQ8

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KYZAAC
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Car: 92 240sx SR

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i found the same puller as that one out in the garage, pulley still wouldn't budge tho, cars been sittin for a good 3 years, prob seized to f***, i put some heat on it for a bit and that didnt help. what else can i try

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WhiteZenki23
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i really need the help please!!
is a ka24de-t i just put it together, i got sr 370cc inj, walbro 255,t4 turbo external wastegate, everything else is stock. when everything was put together and i try to start it the engine kept on dying at idle, the spark plug were black smoke, and from the exhast was coming a lot of smoke. my question is wat is better for 6-10psi DD car a SAFC or ECU reflash :confused: .
PS: can anyone show me where the vacum lines for the bov are and how to connect the waste gate with the MBC.
any other suggestion will be appreciated..
thanks :frown:

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speedeast
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^ Black smoke usually means fuel issue, injectors may not be right...? If you have the means, test your injectors and check your fuel pressure with and without vacuum to the FPR. The issue could also be vacuum to the FPR; make sure that there is.

These were found on the first page of Google Images
Image
Image
^red
KYZAAC wrote:i found the same puller as that one out in the garage, pulley still wouldn't budge tho, cars been sittin for a good 3 years, prob seized to f***, i put some heat on it for a bit and that didnt help. what else can i try
Umm... do you expect the other one to be as difficult as the one you're playing with? Just soak it with a penetrating lubricant (ie: PB Blaster) and keep applying the lubricant over the course of 12 hours or so, maybe even overnight. Then attempt to use the 2-arm pulley. If you get it to move just a little and then stop again, spray it down again and give it a little bit of time. Good luck!
Last edited by speedeast on Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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With your setup, I wouldn't run more than 6psi. Obviously the better choice is an ECU reflash, so that you can control timing and everything, but SAFC is cheaper.
Vacuum lines and how to connect waste gates, etc can be found in the KA-T section, as well as www.240sxtech.com.

93hicas240
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Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:53 pm
Car: Just bought my 93 nissan 240sx

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Hey guys new to the site, just purchased a 93 240sx super hicas with an SR20. I was just wondering if anyone could fill me in on it seeing as how its my first nissan ever owned, to be honest im a mitsubishi man at heart hahaha. So please if anyone has any kind of info that would be of some help that would be appreciated.

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truckmtr240
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I have a 91 hicas. its great. just watch out for the rear hatch rusting under the foam spoiler. Remove it if it isn't already.

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speedeast
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93hicas240 wrote:Hey guys new to the site, just purchased a 93 240sx super hicas with an SR20. I was just wondering if anyone could fill me in on it seeing as how its my first nissan ever owned, to be honest im a mitsubishi man at heart hahaha. So please if anyone has any kind of info that would be of some help that would be appreciated.
Here is all of the information about that you could ever want!
rwd-sr-faq-version-2-0-t306956.html

If you still have specific questions about something you can't find there, then follow up with us here in this thread. Welcome!

And btw, you'll be a Nissan niconaut in no time!

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skylet414
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx

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HELP.. so like about a month ago my brother was drivin my 93 240 and he told me that it just wouldnt go into gear after drivin it.. so i went n checked it out. yes it doesnt go into gear but if u kinda force it in itll go in but kinda grinds.. but later i figured that if u just step on the clutch pedel bout half way itll go in.. then did that for a bit and then all of sudden some felt like it cracked.. and at that point it wouldnt go into gear at all. so i took off the transmission and saw that the clutch disk was cracked.(one of the springs cracked n poped out). so i replaced it, then put the transmission back on. but it still feels the same.. its not goin into gear.. itll go but it kinda needs to be forced in.. so is it my transmission that i need to change or do wat do u guys think.. thanks

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TroubleBound
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Quick question, water pump replacement, ne one came with gasket, do i also need gasket sealant? All i gots is Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker....

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KYZAAC
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TroubleBound wrote:Quick question, water pump replacement, ne one came with gasket, do i also need gasket sealant? All i gots is Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker....
im far from an expert but yes i would use it, check out "positron1's" thread, my-s13-sr20det-prep-t302985-80.html , there is a detailed guide for water pump install on pg 3.

im looking into getting a suspension bushing set for my s13, i dunno what bushings are important or not, but the car has been sitting for a few years and want to freshin it up as much as possible. what are the benefits of a bushing kit? what would be the best bushing set to get for around around $100 - $150 max? i am looking at a set on frsport for $139, but like i said i don't know what im looking at, here is the set from frsport, if there is a better kit out there for around the same price, or any other info i should know b4 buying let me know

Image

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CRyan
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Polyurethane bushings don't have as much give as the OEM rubber one's, therefor giving you a stiffer, more valued ride.

I vote Energy Supsension all day - 165 on this site, http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/suspensionbush.html , but you may find them cheaper somewhere else. Its a complete kit, comes with lube. Just remember, (well, if i remember correctly) there are a couple you have to burn out.

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PyR0NiAk
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Enjuku is a sponsor and they sell them cheaper than PDM...

http://www.enjukuracing.com/energy-susp ... -6726.html

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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TroubleBound wrote:Quick question, water pump replacement, ne one came with gasket, do i also need gasket sealant? All i gots is Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker....
Actually, ALL you need is the ultra gray. Don't even use the gasket that came with it. Apply the Ultra Gray, let it sit for about 15-20 seconds, then place it.

Enjuku FTW!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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skylet414 wrote:HELP.. so like about a month ago my brother was drivin my 93 240 and he told me that it just wouldnt go into gear after drivin it.. so i went n checked it out. yes it doesnt go into gear but if u kinda force it in itll go in but kinda grinds.. but later i figured that if u just step on the clutch pedel bout half way itll go in.. then did that for a bit and then all of sudden some felt like it cracked.. and at that point it wouldnt go into gear at all. so i took off the transmission and saw that the clutch disk was cracked.(one of the springs cracked n poped out). so i replaced it, then put the transmission back on. but it still feels the same.. its not goin into gear.. itll go but it kinda needs to be forced in.. so is it my transmission that i need to change or do wat do u guys think.. thanks
Does the pedal still feel normal? You could have broken your pivot fork bolt.I'm assuming you replaced the pressure plate and throwout bearing while you were in there, right?

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KYZAAC
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PyR0NiAk wrote:Enjuku is a sponsor and they sell them cheaper than PDM...

http://www.enjukuracing.com/energy-susp ... -6726.html
s*** i must be blind, i searched enjuku and couldn't find them, i sent ken an email to be sure before buying else where tho, is this the same kit as the one i posted earlier?
how are they installed? just pressed in and out?

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skylet414
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx

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Does the pedal still feel normal? You could have broken your pivot fork bolt.I'm assuming you replaced the pressure plate and throwout bearing while you were in there, right?
yea it feels the same.. but it kinda feels like its pumpin back really quick from time to time when it gets really hard and kinda force it into gear... and yea changed the throwout bearing and pp

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nismoracingsx
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Hi there.
Been loving 240's for a few years.
Finally might get into an sr20 240 soon for a decent price.
Have been doing lots of reading on stock turbo systems and recommendations.

Picture of said 240's sr20..
Image

Questions::
I heard that running an open air BOV is bad for stock engines and/or engines running a MAF in general as it causes a rich mixture in between shifts.
The owner tells me that it has a blitz blow off valve. Is being open air gonna physically hurt the engine until I change it?

Also, how difficult will it be to recirculate this bov if anybody has experience w/ it? Can I just tee the BOV line into the valve cover breather hose that goes into the intake pipe?

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speedeast
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nismoracingsx wrote:Hi there.
Been loving 240's for a few years.
Finally might get into an sr20 240 soon for a decent price.
Have been doing lots of reading on stock turbo systems and recommendations.

Picture of said 240's sr20..
Image

Questions::
I heard that running an open air BOV is bad for stock engines and/or engines running a MAF in general as it causes a rich mixture in between shifts.
The owner tells me that it has a blitz blow off valve. Is being open air gonna physically hurt the engine until I change it?

Also, how difficult will it be to recirculate this bov if anybody has experience w/ it? Can I just tee the BOV line into the valve cover breather hose that goes into the intake pipe?
There is actually a SR20 vacuum line diagram one page back <-- "134"
The BOV causing damage is directly proportionate to the boost pressure - more boost means more damage, BUT the only damage that occurs is fouled spark plugs and catalytic converter damage from operating too hot. A BOV is beyond necessary; you will have far more problems if you allow compressor surge. Some people vent the pressure back into the intake, but the option that I recommend to everyone is switching from a MAF to a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. That and a modified ecu or piggyback will ensure that the ECU takes into consideration the changes in air pressure. With stock boost pressure you will be fine running an open-air BOV, but as I mentioned before - you will have a shorter spark plug and catalytic converter life.

Here's a good diagram on how to recirculate:
Image
Notice it puts the recirculated air back in before the turbocharger and AFTER the MAF. This way, the air remains in the system and it not metered again.

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TroubleBound
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When my engine fan exploded it took alot of parts with it )=. I already swapped the belt, coupler, pulley, water pump, air box and vacuum hoses, upper radiator hose, radiator. Motonman is shipping me a new fan but i have a crappy spare so i got to start t and it still runns like crap. It putters like hell. Think it may be this cut looking wire next to my busted looking maf? Isnt that supposed to have something plugged into it?
Image

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speedeast
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TroubleBound wrote:When my engine fan exploded it took alot of parts with it )=. I already swapped the belt, coupler, pulley, water pump, air box and vacuum hoses, upper radiator hose, radiator. Motonman is shipping me a new fan but i have a crappy spare so i got to start t and it still runns like crap. It putters like hell. Think it may be this cut looking wire next to my busted looking maf? Isnt that supposed to have something plugged into it?
Image
Umm... does it not connect to the MAF!? Well either way... it is possible for that to be your problem, but even if it wasn't i would get that fixed. That wire in there is shielded for a reason, keep that in mind.
Last edited by speedeast on Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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skylet414 wrote: yea it feels the same.. but it kinda feels like its pumpin back really quick from time to time when it gets really hard and kinda force it into gear... and yea changed the throwout bearing and pp
Not sure then... the only thing I can think of is if you aren't pushing your slave far enough (maybe your master is out of whack, or you got a little air in the system, or the seals are starting to go). You can try pulling the master cylinder out, and adjusting the fork on it (thread it further down the rod) to essentially give you more stroke. Adjust your stop on the pedal bracket so you have 1-3mm of pedal free play and see if it helps.
nismoracingsx wrote:Hi there.
Been loving 240's for a few years.
Finally might get into an sr20 240 soon for a decent price.
Have been doing lots of reading on stock turbo systems and recommendations.

Picture of said 240's sr20..
Image

Questions::
I heard that running an open air BOV is bad for stock engines and/or engines running a MAF in general as it causes a rich mixture in between shifts.
The owner tells me that it has a blitz blow off valve. Is being open air gonna physically hurt the engine until I change it?

Also, how difficult will it be to recirculate this bov if anybody has experience w/ it? Can I just tee the BOV line into the valve cover breather hose that goes into the intake pipe?
What speed said (switching to MAP) is definitely a solution, but its pretty expensive. You can either recirculate the BOV to the pipe after the MAF, or you can switch to a blow-through MAF setup. I run blow through MAF on my KA-T with an open BOV and have 0 problems going rich between shifts, or stalling out, or anything. The guy at the dyno shop was amazed at how well the car ran. My MAF is after my intercooler, but before the IACV hose.

kupo
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2010 1:04 pm
Car: 93 s13 in the operating room

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Hey guys, I have a 93 s13 ka24de pretty much stock and only running on 3 outta 4 cylinders

My question is : does the r32 dash fit the s13 (after the RHD conversion obviously)

Any help is greatly appreciated thanx in advance

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speedeast
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kupo wrote:Hey guys, I have a 93 s13 ka24de pretty much stock and only running on 3 outta 4 cylinders

My question is : does the r32 dash fit the s13 (after the RHD conversion obviously)

Any help is greatly appreciated thanx in advance
Let me get this straight... you're not asking why your car is only running on 3 cylinders!?
For your question, anything is possible, but that dash wasn't made to fit, so it won't. You can however get a RHD S13 dash...


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