


Umm... do you expect the other one to be as difficult as the one you're playing with? Just soak it with a penetrating lubricant (ie: PB Blaster) and keep applying the lubricant over the course of 12 hours or so, maybe even overnight. Then attempt to use the 2-arm pulley. If you get it to move just a little and then stop again, spray it down again and give it a little bit of time. Good luck!KYZAAC wrote:i found the same puller as that one out in the garage, pulley still wouldn't budge tho, cars been sittin for a good 3 years, prob seized to f***, i put some heat on it for a bit and that didnt help. what else can i try
Here is all of the information about that you could ever want!93hicas240 wrote:Hey guys new to the site, just purchased a 93 240sx super hicas with an SR20. I was just wondering if anyone could fill me in on it seeing as how its my first nissan ever owned, to be honest im a mitsubishi man at heart hahaha. So please if anyone has any kind of info that would be of some help that would be appreciated.
im far from an expert but yes i would use it, check out "positron1's" thread, my-s13-sr20det-prep-t302985-80.html , there is a detailed guide for water pump install on pg 3.TroubleBound wrote:Quick question, water pump replacement, ne one came with gasket, do i also need gasket sealant? All i gots is Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker....

Actually, ALL you need is the ultra gray. Don't even use the gasket that came with it. Apply the Ultra Gray, let it sit for about 15-20 seconds, then place it.TroubleBound wrote:Quick question, water pump replacement, ne one came with gasket, do i also need gasket sealant? All i gots is Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker....
Does the pedal still feel normal? You could have broken your pivot fork bolt.I'm assuming you replaced the pressure plate and throwout bearing while you were in there, right?skylet414 wrote:HELP.. so like about a month ago my brother was drivin my 93 240 and he told me that it just wouldnt go into gear after drivin it.. so i went n checked it out. yes it doesnt go into gear but if u kinda force it in itll go in but kinda grinds.. but later i figured that if u just step on the clutch pedel bout half way itll go in.. then did that for a bit and then all of sudden some felt like it cracked.. and at that point it wouldnt go into gear at all. so i took off the transmission and saw that the clutch disk was cracked.(one of the springs cracked n poped out). so i replaced it, then put the transmission back on. but it still feels the same.. its not goin into gear.. itll go but it kinda needs to be forced in.. so is it my transmission that i need to change or do wat do u guys think.. thanks
s*** i must be blind, i searched enjuku and couldn't find them, i sent ken an email to be sure before buying else where tho, is this the same kit as the one i posted earlier?PyR0NiAk wrote:Enjuku is a sponsor and they sell them cheaper than PDM...
http://www.enjukuracing.com/energy-susp ... -6726.html
yea it feels the same.. but it kinda feels like its pumpin back really quick from time to time when it gets really hard and kinda force it into gear... and yea changed the throwout bearing and ppDoes the pedal still feel normal? You could have broken your pivot fork bolt.I'm assuming you replaced the pressure plate and throwout bearing while you were in there, right?

There is actually a SR20 vacuum line diagram one page back <-- "134"nismoracingsx wrote:Hi there.
Been loving 240's for a few years.
Finally might get into an sr20 240 soon for a decent price.
Have been doing lots of reading on stock turbo systems and recommendations.
Picture of said 240's sr20..
Questions::
I heard that running an open air BOV is bad for stock engines and/or engines running a MAF in general as it causes a rich mixture in between shifts.
The owner tells me that it has a blitz blow off valve. Is being open air gonna physically hurt the engine until I change it?
Also, how difficult will it be to recirculate this bov if anybody has experience w/ it? Can I just tee the BOV line into the valve cover breather hose that goes into the intake pipe?


Umm... does it not connect to the MAF!? Well either way... it is possible for that to be your problem, but even if it wasn't i would get that fixed. That wire in there is shielded for a reason, keep that in mind.TroubleBound wrote:When my engine fan exploded it took alot of parts with it )=. I already swapped the belt, coupler, pulley, water pump, air box and vacuum hoses, upper radiator hose, radiator. Motonman is shipping me a new fan but i have a crappy spare so i got to start t and it still runns like crap. It putters like hell. Think it may be this cut looking wire next to my busted looking maf? Isnt that supposed to have something plugged into it?
Not sure then... the only thing I can think of is if you aren't pushing your slave far enough (maybe your master is out of whack, or you got a little air in the system, or the seals are starting to go). You can try pulling the master cylinder out, and adjusting the fork on it (thread it further down the rod) to essentially give you more stroke. Adjust your stop on the pedal bracket so you have 1-3mm of pedal free play and see if it helps.skylet414 wrote: yea it feels the same.. but it kinda feels like its pumpin back really quick from time to time when it gets really hard and kinda force it into gear... and yea changed the throwout bearing and pp
What speed said (switching to MAP) is definitely a solution, but its pretty expensive. You can either recirculate the BOV to the pipe after the MAF, or you can switch to a blow-through MAF setup. I run blow through MAF on my KA-T with an open BOV and have 0 problems going rich between shifts, or stalling out, or anything. The guy at the dyno shop was amazed at how well the car ran. My MAF is after my intercooler, but before the IACV hose.nismoracingsx wrote:Hi there.
Been loving 240's for a few years.
Finally might get into an sr20 240 soon for a decent price.
Have been doing lots of reading on stock turbo systems and recommendations.
Picture of said 240's sr20..
Questions::
I heard that running an open air BOV is bad for stock engines and/or engines running a MAF in general as it causes a rich mixture in between shifts.
The owner tells me that it has a blitz blow off valve. Is being open air gonna physically hurt the engine until I change it?
Also, how difficult will it be to recirculate this bov if anybody has experience w/ it? Can I just tee the BOV line into the valve cover breather hose that goes into the intake pipe?
Let me get this straight... you're not asking why your car is only running on 3 cylinders!?kupo wrote:Hey guys, I have a 93 s13 ka24de pretty much stock and only running on 3 outta 4 cylinders
My question is : does the r32 dash fit the s13 (after the RHD conversion obviously)
Any help is greatly appreciated thanx in advance