My S13 SR20DET Prep

[J240sx]

I demand updates!

[positron1]

I put the waterpump in a while back. It's a straightforward easy install.

Tools needed:Socket wrench12mm socketRubber malletLiquid gasketRazorblade

If you haven't done so already then remove the waterpump pulley to gain access to the pump bolts.Probably nothing wrong with the old pump but I wanted to replace it with a new one for piece of mind.Part number#: 21010-52F01I got some new hardware as well.Waterpump studs Part#: 08226-61610Waterpump bolts Part#: 08120-8251EUse a 12mm socket to remove the seven waterpump bolts.The old gasket is holding steady so use a mallet or just man up and bust the waterpump loose.Got it!Old pump vs. new pump.Take a razorblade and remove the old gasket.Put the new waterpump studs in the pump, they just screw right on.It's ready for the install now.Put a continous bead of liquid gasket around the waterpump and insert it back into the block.Put your waterpump bolts back in and torque them to 12-15ft.lbs.I got a aftermarket waterpump pulley. Torque the pulley nuts to 4.6-6.1ft.lbs.And you are finished.

[duffman1278]

Dam that looks nice, good work man!

[positron1]

Tools needed:Screwdriver...duh!!!!

Lower radiator hose...forgot the part#????? OEM??? Gates#: 21921Upper radiator hose. Part#: 21501-85F01Upper radiator hose goes on the water outlet here, don't forget your hose clamps.Remove the old cut up hoses......and the lower radiator hose goes on the water outlet.Finished.

Modified by positron_ at 2:07 AM 10/27/2008
Modified by positron_ at 2:08 AM 10/27/2008

[positron1]

I replaced the speed sensor today.

Tools needed:Screwdriver10mm small head wrench...you need a small headed wrench to get to the bolt head over the hump of the speed sensor.

When you do the swap you have to swap the speed sensors out. If I'm not mistaken the US sensor reads mph while the JDM unit reads kph or m or somethin'!Just bust the screw on the speed sensor loose with a wrench and remove it.The KA speed sensor vs. the SR speed sensor...they look identical.Insert the KA speed sensor, insert the bolt, screw it in and you're done!
Modified by positronone at 4:09 AM 2/27/2008

[positron1]

I finally got the IACV gasket in so I could put my intake manifold back together and mount it.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket wrench extension10mm socket14mm socketTorque wrench

When I striped the block down I also broke the intake manifold down into it's separate pieces so I could replace all the gaskets.First off, I lost the pics I took when I put the throttlebody gasket back on but the part number for the throttlebody gasket is 16175-53J00.Next, I replaced the IACV gasket.Part#: 23785-50F00Use a razorblade to remove the old gasket.Mount the IACV onto the intake collector and torque the bolts to 6.2-8ft.lbs.Intake collector gasket.Part#: 14032-52F00Place the intake collector gasket on the intake collector...and then mount the intake runner and the intake collector together. Torque the intake bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. Also take the IACV hose and reconnect it while you're at it.Put a new intake manifold gasket on and then mount the intake manifold back on.Torque the manifold bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. and another one bites the dust.

[positron1]

I swapped out my busted crank angle sensor.

Tools needed:ScrewdriverSocket wrench 12mm socket27mm socketOil

This sensor was fine when I got the motor...don't ask me how it got busted because I don't want to talk about it.I got another CAS from a forum member and at a great price too.If you look on your crank pulley you will see a group of little notches on one side of it, these are the timing marks. Use the 27mm socket and wrench to move your crank pulley to the notch that is second from the left, this is TDC or top dead center.You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts and the valve cover so you can see where the timing marks are on the crank angle sensor.If you look closely on the CAS you will see a notch on the bottom and above that notch on the shaft you will see two circles, one on the top and one on the bottom. These are the marks that you will use to set the timing to TDC later.Use a 12mm socket or a screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the CAS in the block.Take a moment to look at where the timing marks on the CAS are at TDC. The second circle or timing mark on the shaft of the CAS is aligned perfectly with the notch on the lower part of the CAS. This is how I want the new CAS positioned.Grab the CAS and tug on it until you pop it out.The new and the old. Dip the replacement CAS in some oil before you insert it back into the block.Now for insertion. This is what has to happen, you line up the first circle on the shaft of the CAS with the notch below it and when you insert back into the block the gears will turn slightly causing the second circle or timing mark to become aligned with the notch putting you at TDC.I lined the first timing mark up, inserted it and it lined up perfectly with the second timing mark.Hopefully I won't have to adjust timing when I start the engine up (that is if it's a good engine...man I hate to think that I could be doing all this for nothing) and it'll fire up the first time.

[srdub-t]

dam looking good! all the little nuts bolts gaskets and new parts must be nickle and diming you to death.

[homeslicej2]

[positron1]

dam looking good! all the little nuts bolts gaskets and new parts must be nickle and diming you to death.

Agreed! I can't wait to get all these "bits and pieces" parts taken care of so I can get the big stuff like the clutch, flywheel and mounts and finally get this thing swapped in.

[Hijacker]

That was the issue on my build. Nickle and diming. It all adds up way too much in the end. I had an order with my nissan dealer that came out to over $230, and that was with a 40% discount off list from a friend that works there. That order included timing chain, guides, guide bolts, random gaskets, random hard to find bolts and studs, and other little miscellaneous stuff.

I think I spent well over $50 getting all the little studs that hold the valve cover down. And then it's about $3-4 for the washer/nuts that you screw on top of the studs.

A little FYI for you, you got the hose on the wrong tube on the throttle body. The hose you have running from the nipple on the sensor housing goes to the throttle body nipple right below the TPS

Also, I would have done the old two nut screw method for seating the studs on the water pump pulley. Take two nuts and thread them on the stud, then tighten them against each other and you can use them to tighten the stud down into its seat.

[positron1]

That was the issue on my build. Nickle and diming. It all adds up way too much in the end. I had an order with my nissan dealer that came out to over $230, and that was with a 40% discount off list from a friend that works there. That order included timing chain, guides, guide bolts, random gaskets, random hard to find bolts and studs, and other little miscellaneous stuff.

I think I spent well over $50 getting all the little studs that hold the valve cover down. And then it's about $3-4 for the washer/nuts that you screw on top of the studs.

A little FYI for you, you got the hose on the wrong tube on the throttle body. The hose you have running from the nipple on the sensor housing goes to the throttle body nipple right below the TPS

Also, I would have done the old two nut screw method for seating the studs on the water pump pulley. Take two nuts and thread them on the stud, then tighten them against each other and you can use them to tighten the stud down into its seat.

Exactly, you think these small parts are so cheap but then the tally starts to add up and you start sweatin'! I am going to redo the waterpump studs, I did that on a wheel stud once so I should have remembered that so thanks. As far as the hoses go I know that I have way too much hose on there and that I have pretty much no idea where most go. I have been looking at pics of engines online and looking through my magazines and FSM to figure it out but while we are on the subject I have more hose questions.

When I read your post I dug out the original hose and lined it up to the throttlebody/TPS and the sensor housing...thanks again.I know that the IACV hose goes here on the big outlet on the IACV and connects to the small port on the coldpipe....here!I need to know where these two hoses on the water and coolant lines go to?I also need to know where the hoses for the two small outlets on the side of the IACV go?The hose from this outlet goes to one side of the T on the valve cover.The bigger hose on the top of the throttle body goes accross the front of the engine over to the intake correct? Where does the small hose on the throttlebody go. I was researching and I think it has something to do with boost.There is a small outlet on the lower left of the throttlebody that bends down...where does the hose on this outlet go or come from?

[inkslingers13]

wow man, i like how in detail you are with all the pics and write ups! keep up the good work! and keep the pics rolling in mang!

[positron1]

Got some new parts in today.

Turbo Oil Return Line Part#: 15198-69F00.Strange, the old line is longer than the new line?????Remove the old line....replace with the new and don't forget about the hardware.

Oil Dipstick Not really a part that screams to be replaced.Oil Dipstick Part#: 11140-52F00.

[inkslingers13]

looking good!

[positron1]

I decided to replace my fuel injector seals while I had the fuel rail off.

Tools needed:Phillipshead screwdriverPrybarSmall flathead screwdriverSmall hammerSock

If you need to remove your fuel rail all you need is a 13mm socket for the four bolts on the curve of the intake manifold runners.

Fuel rail. Before you can get to the injectors you need a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the injector caps.Besides replacing the injector seals I also have a busted injector that needs to go as well.Removing the fuel injectors was not as easy as I thought it would be. I tried to twist them out with my fingers...not gonna happen unless you got a big "S" on your chest. What did work for me was a medium sized prybar. I wedged the prybar under the tip where the injector harness is and popped it right out, you'll hear a loud pop when the seal is broken. You might want to place something small and soft in between the injector and the prybar so you won't damage the injector.Can't use this, nothing for the harness to plug into.Use a small flathead screwdriver to pull the injector seals off the injector. There is a small injector seal on the lower portion and a larger one on the top.

When I received the engine I had already decided to replace the fuel rail but after getting a look at this one I had second thoughts. It wasn't damaged or bent in any way at all so I decided to clean it up and use it.My fuel rail was pretty filthy...but a scrubbing session with some Mean Green really got the luster back.Just like nearly new.Also cleaned up the fuel pressure regulator. Just reattach it to the fuel rail with a phillipshead screwdriver.I can use that $45 for something else.

Now back to the injectors.Upper injector seal Part#: 16618-10V05.Lower injector seal Part#: 16618-53J00.Put the new seals back on the injectors.The one I replaced has a different tip than the others...hmm.Insert the injector back into the fuel rail. There will be a gap and you will not be able to force them back in with your hands so it's time to improvise.I used a small hammer to seat the injectors back into the fuel rail. Just place the flat part of the hammer on the top of the injector...place the rail on the ground put your wieght into it and slowly push the injector down into the rail. Again use something soft in between the hammer and the injector as well as something soft in between the fuel rail and the ground to keep the bottom plastic caps on the injectors from making contact and getting busted.Seated injector.Now you have to replace the injector caps.

Screw the caps back on with a phillips head screwdriver and torque to 2.2-2.8ft.lbs.Finished.

I dropped an injector and busted the little yellow cap on the bottom so I need to replace that before I can put this rail back on the manifold...doe!!!

[duffman1278]

A few things. I broke the little yellow piece as well, and to put them back in is a PITA!!! From what many people have told me their not even necessary.

For removing the injectors, theirs also a much EASIER, and cleaner way. Just remove the caps from the injectors, stick the screws back in almost all the way, and get a stick type of tool like an allen wrench that fits in the side holes of the injectors. Place the allen wrenches or w/e device you use and mount it on the screws that hold the injector caps, like a "V" shape and push down on the allen wrenches. Do it slowly, and it'll pop them out nicely. You might crack a little bit of it but it'll see be good to go afterwards.

One other suggestion, when you put the injectors back in, I used a socket that would fit inside the circle area perfectly and put the wrench on it and pressed it right in the middle. Thats just a suggestion though for anyone who needs this.

[positron1]

I wanted to install a oil filter sandwich plate so I can install oil pressure and oil temperature guages. This plate has two ports on it to make adding the guages easy...or so I thought.

Tools needed:Oil Filter PliersRags

I got a stainless steel oil filter sandwich plate with three ports two of which were plugged and two different fittings....and a gasket on the backside.The first thing to do is to remove the old oil filter.You need a set of oil filter pliers.My oil filter pliers are busted so I need a screwdriver in there to keep 'em from sliding out of grip...ghetto style FTW!!!!Get the filter off and have a rag ready for the runoff.Clean the area up and get the oil filter sandwich plate ready.Now this is where I ran into the problem.My plate will not fit. There doesn't seem to be enough thread on the fittings to mount snuggly against the block...WTF!!!Nissan SR20DET oil filter Part#: 15208-53J00. I was gonna go with a fancy smancy oil filter but then I said just keep it simple and go OEM.Installed, but without the oil filter sandwich plate. Weeks later and I still have no idea why that thing won't fit. Anyone???

[positron1]

A few things. I broke the little yellow piece as well, and to put them back in is a PITA!!! From what many people have told me their not even necessary.

For removing the injectors, theirs also a much EASIER, and cleaner way. Just remove the caps from the injectors, stick the screws back in almost all the way, and get a stick type of tool like an allen wrench that fits in the side holes of the injectors. Place the allen wrenches or w/e device you use and mount it on the screws that hold the injector caps, like a "V" shape and push down on the allen wrenches. Do it slowly, and it'll pop them out nicely. You might crack a little bit of it but it'll see be good to go afterwards.

One other suggestion, when you put the injectors back in, I used a socket that would fit inside the circle area perfectly and put the wrench on it and pressed it right in the middle. Thats just a suggestion though for anyone who needs this.

Duffman could have saved me a lot of trouble...and cussing........and spitting!

[homeslicej2]

Duffman could have saved me a lot of trouble...and cussing........and spitting!

LOL. Was your oil filter plate designed for our SR or is it just a generic summit racing one? I'm not sure why the fitting wouldn't work. Keep it up with the part #'s I'm going through your build thread and compiling them as you go. Once you are done (are we ever ) I was going to give them to Hijacker to add to SR FAQ's/parts guide if the are not already in there.

[positron1]

LOL. Was your oil filter plate designed for our SR or is it just a generic summit racing one? I'm not sure why the fitting wouldn't work. Keep it up with the part #'s I'm going through your build thread and compiling them as you go. Once you are done (are we ever ) I was going to give them to Hijacker to add to SR FAQ's/parts guide if the are not already in there.

It's a generic universal one which is no doubt the culprit.

[Hijacker]

ebay ftl Since I don't intend to run an oil temp probe, I'm just going to get a dual port attachment for the stock port for the oil pressure switch. That way I can run a pressure gauge and keep my dummy light.

[redtop91]

I was going to do that, but my dummy light wires were corroded to all hell and they fell out of the plug when I was hooking everything up. FTL.

[positron1]

ebay ftl Since I don't intend to run an oil temp probe, I'm just going to get a dual port attachment for the stock port for the oil pressure switch. That way I can run a pressure gauge and keep my dummy light.

Ebay FTL indeed...when will I learn? Where can I get this port you speak of?

[inkslingers13]

that sucks it wont fit, but that fuel rail looks hot! good job man, i cant wait to see this thing put back together! good luck on trying to get sh#t to fit.

[homeslicej2]

Modified by homeslicej2 at 3:24 PM 3/6/2008

[Hijacker]

The switch is a circuit complete switch, so if it's unplugged the circuit can't complete and the dummy light won't turn on.

Posi, I think you can get it from either ATP Turbo or Summit. I'll check with my friend where he usually gets his.

[homeslicej2]

^Guess that shows I'm the idiot then I didn't know that. Good thing I have an aftermarket gauge though.

[idahotuner]

I swapped out my busted crank angle sensor.

Tools needed:ScrewdriverSocket wrench 12mm socket27mm socketOil

This sensor was fine when I got the motor...don't ask me how it got busted because I don't want to talk about it.I got another CAS from a forum member and at a great price too.If you look on your crank pulley you will see a group of little notches on one side of it, these are the timing marks. Use the 27mm socket and wrench to move your crank pulley to the notch that is second from the left, this is TDC or top dead center.You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts and the valve cover so you can see where the timing marks are on the crank angle sensor.If you look closely on the CAS you will see a notch on the bottom and above that notch on the shaft you will see two circles, one on the top and one on the bottom. These are the marks that you will use to set the timing to TDC later.Use a 12mm socket or a screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the CAS in the block.Take a moment to look at where the timing marks on the CAS are at TDC. The second circle or timing mark on the shaft of the CAS is aligned perfectly with the notch on the lower part of the CAS. This is how I want the new CAS positioned.Grab the CAS and tug on it until you pop it out.The new and the old. Dip the replacement CAS in some oil before you insert it back into the block.Now for insertion. This is what has to happen, you line up the first circle on the shaft of the CAS with the notch below it and when you insert back into the block the gears will turn slightly causing the second circle or timing mark to become aligned with the notch putting you at TDC.I lined the first timing mark up, inserted it and it lined up perfectly with the second timing mark.Hopefully I won't have to adjust timing when I start the engine up (that is if it's a good engine...man I hate to think that I could be doing all this for nothing) and it'll fire up the first time.

I might steal this to show. that is exactly how i set mine. and people are telling me my timing is off.

[SRspoolin]

where are you gettin all the torque specs for an sr?