I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Yasko
Posts: 110
Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:33 pm

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Will S14 SE Wheels clear Stance GR+ Pro coilovers w/o spacers? I was about to buy a full set, but wanted to make sure first.

Also My car has 17" wheels on all 4 currently and I was going to use the SE wheels as drift wheels...Can I use the 17's up front then use the 16" SE wheel in the rear?...or is that stupid.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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WhiteZenki23 wrote:i just bougt a air/fuel rati gauge and it only works for narrow band o2 sensors.
my q's is: will my 240sx o2 sensor work with the a/f gauge ? :confused:
PS wat others o2 sensor can i use to make it work with my gauge.
givve examples please!
Yes, the factory 240sx O2 sensor is a narrow band O2 sensor. Any standard replacement O2 sensor will work (check www.sparkplugs.com). Wide band O2 sensors are typically only used while dyno tuning.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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KYZAAC wrote:after getting some parts together for the sr swap, i noticed the sr p/s pump was non hicas, i found a sr hicas bracket online so i could use the ka p/s pump, but i never thought i would be using anything from the ka motor when i removed it a few months ago, and i just left it in the corner of the garage collecting dust, i never bothered to plug the holes, i do alot of welding/grinding out there and there could be a chance of metal shavings and s*** inside. is there anyway to "flush" it out as a precaution without taking it apart?
Get a bunch of PS fluid or transmission oil or something and fill the bish up, then spin the pulley. Try and make a re-circulatory system on it I guess.

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Michaelmoore
Posts: 99
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:09 pm
Car: '91 Hatch
Location: Pensacola, Florida

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Few quick questions.

Just bought a 91 hatch with a 95 motor in it.

- Has no A/C but is an A/C model (has the buttons and all but the compressor is gone) how hard would it be to get a new one and would I have to change from R12 (not really sure what that is my dad was talking about it though)
- Has Tein Coilovers on it and one of them is shot and knocks really loud when you hit a bump. Guy I bought it from said Tein told him they would fix it if he sent it in. Is this a true statement?
- How hard would it be to "reinstall" the rear windsheild wiper, mine seems to have a new hatch but there is no wiper there, don't know if the relays are there or not.

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speedeast
Posts: 1610
Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 7:01 pm
Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
Location: Orlando, Fl

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^ Fist off, not all hatches have a rear wiper... You can put the A/C in it, but I don't know how much of the system is gone, so I can't tell you what all is involved. Get us some pictures.

As for the Tein: They will overhaul the dampers, but it isn't free. There also doesn't seem to be a warranty policy in place yet:
http://www.tein.com/service/index.html

Good luck, and lets get some pictures under the hood so we can help with the A/C question.

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truckmtr240
Posts: 290
Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:26 pm
Car: 91 240sx hatch
Location: Lancaster

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What is this noise that I constantly hear when the clutch is disengaged?
In the video I engage and disengage the clutch. All new belts, and upper timing chain guide was removed. Any Ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5lIfK_BA1E

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
Location: Orlando, Fl

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^How does it drive? Why did you remove the upper timing chain guide?

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truckmtr240
Posts: 290
Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:26 pm
Car: 91 240sx hatch
Location: Lancaster

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The car drives fine. just an annoying noise. The upper guide was removed because it was worn out and was making noise. Nissan said it can be removed

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah the upper chain can be removed. I didn't click on the video (I'm at an airport), but depending on the type of clutch you have, you'll hear clutch chatter with it disengaged. It isn't really anything to worry about if that's what it sounds like.

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truckmtr240
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Car: 91 240sx hatch
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Yes its a kind of chatter. Its not horrible, just annoying. Would replacing the clutch fix the problem?

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billabong093
Posts: 704
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 7:32 pm
Car: 1990 S13 Hatch

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Problem with my car. In gears 1-3 anytime i let off the gas (could be at 2k, 3k, 4k etc.) and let the car decelerate, there's a loud scraping noise. It sounds like metal being dragged across metal, its pretty horrible. If im in 4th or 5th gear and i let off it doesn't do this. Also if im in say, 3rd gear, i let off, it starts making the noise, and then i pull it into neutral, it immediately stops making the noise and just coasts quietly no problem. Any ideas? thanks.

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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truckmtr240 wrote:Yes its a kind of chatter. Its not horrible, just annoying. Would replacing the clutch fix the problem?
wait, you you have a lightweight flywheel? i've heard stories of chatter with flywheel upgrades...

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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billabong093 wrote:Problem with my car. In gears 1-3 anytime i let off the gas (could be at 2k, 3k, 4k etc.) and let the car decelerate, there's a loud scraping noise. It sounds like metal being dragged across metal, its pretty horrible. If im in 4th or 5th gear and i let off it doesn't do this. Also if im in say, 3rd gear, i let off, it starts making the noise, and then i pull it into neutral, it immediately stops making the noise and just coasts quietly no problem. Any ideas? thanks.
I think worn synchros would do that; I'll look into it.

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thomasjamal
Posts: 916
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:46 am
Car: 93 coupe

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nismoracingsx wrote:
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Well, I'm sure some portion of it will be different (specifically, the trunk area), but the passenger cabin from the back seat forward should be the same.
Thats all I wanted to order for now was the passenger cabin carpet, neways, thx for the quick answer, can't wait to get some new carpet :bigthumb:
Just in case you haven't ordered this yet, I can attest to the fact that the it's the same. I took carpet out of a hatch and put it in my coupe. Worked perfectly.

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PyR0NiAk
Posts: 3851
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:29 pm
Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
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Trunk as well, or just the cabin area?

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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PyR0NiAk wrote:Trunk as well, or just the cabin area?
I'm almost positive it's just the cabin area.

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KYZAAC
Posts: 312
Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:09 am
Car: 92 240sx SR

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what gauge sheet metal would be best to patch a piece of the engine bay and shock tower on my s13?

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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KYZAAC wrote:what gauge sheet metal would be best to patch a piece of the engine bay and shock tower on my s13?
I would recommend 18ga cold-rolled steel... that's .0478" thick (~1/21")

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KYZAAC
Posts: 312
Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:09 am
Car: 92 240sx SR

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thanks man
any tips on removing snapped bolts from veryy tight spaces? i was taking the transmission out of my moms escort and one of the mounting bolts snapped, its impossible to get at, i could barley get the open end of a wrench on it, no chance of getting a drill in there to use an easy out. i tried welding a bolt to it but its pretty much flush and have nothing to weld to. i don't know what else to try

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speedeast
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KYZAAC wrote:thanks man
any tips on removing snapped bolts from veryy tight spaces? i was taking the transmission out of my moms escort and one of the mounting bolts snapped, its impossible to get at, i could barley get the open end of a wrench on it, no chance of getting a drill in there to use an easy out. i tried welding a bolt to it but its pretty much flush and have nothing to weld to. i don't know what else to try
might just be easier to fab something else up... something I've done before and I don't know if it will work for your application, but I've taken a smaller nut and aligned it perfectly over the broken off bolt and threw a spot weld right inside of it... take a picture.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Why not just take care of it once the transmission is out?

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KYZAAC
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Car: 92 240sx SR

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oh i probably can eh, its threaded into the transmission so there shouldnt be threads on the the block side. ill checker out

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tmwnn
Posts: 114
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:15 pm
Car: '93 240sx

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tmwnn wrote:I'm hoping someone can help me.

Today I was driving to work, and car was running perfectly fine. All of a sudden, it started to feel as if it was bogging down a bit, and then it started shaking like a tank at a red light, very noticeable. It also felt like the exhaust was "burping" a bit? Don't really know how to describe it, just felt and sounded like the exhaust wasn't flowing smoothly.

I pulled over and did a quick check on the vacuum hoses on my intake pipe, checked the coil cables to see if they were loose, but I didn't know what else to look for. I turned the car on and I could see the engine shaking BADLY, its like it was trying to jump out of the engine bay.

Any thoughts? I'll try to check the spark plugs asap and see if I can find any vacuum leaks....but what else could it be?
Also, my engine has always had a bit of a shake...should I replace the engine mounts or install a torque dampener? would the dampener even make a difference?

thanks
Thanks PyR0NiAk and Speedeast for your replies.
It WAS a faulty injector but like pyroniak said, it wasn't the one I thought. I checked the ohm on all of them and #4 was not reading at all. Replaced it and car runs fine now :cool:

Since I'm on topic, all of them now read between 11.6 and 11.7. Except for #3, which reads 14.6. Is the difference enough to warrant replacing it or should I leave it alone since its running fine

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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^ 14.6 is high, they should read between 11.2 and 11.8 I believe. You should replace it.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Agreed. The car is running fine, but that's not to say it could drop that injector just like what happened to the other one. That being said... you COULD wait until it drops out. As you saw before, running on 3 cylinders is shaky... but it'll get you home. If you have the money, do it.

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Mitchum
Posts: 126
Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 3:53 pm
Car: 2000 Dodge Dakota
1995 240SX
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada

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I have a few questions about an SR swap- I'm interested in finding out ALL the parts id need(or should do) at the time of the swap.

Obviously I need the engine. im also doing a 5 speed at the same time.

SR20DET(gaskets/plugs/etc)
Radiator(electric fans)
Intake
Exhaust

Transmission
clutch
flywheel
5 speed swap kit from enjuku racing?

I would like to get as close as I can to a realistic cost of the engine and transmission swap, not just $2600 for the engine itself.

thanks

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PyR0NiAk
Posts: 3851
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:29 pm
Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
Contact:

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Mitchum wrote:I have a few questions about an SR swap- I'm interested in finding out ALL the parts id need(or should do) at the time of the swap.

Obviously I need the engine. im also doing a 5 speed at the same time.

SR20DET(gaskets/plugs/etc)
Radiator(electric fans)
Intake
Exhaust

Transmission
clutch
flywheel
5 speed swap kit from enjuku racing?

I would like to get as close as I can to a realistic cost of the engine and transmission swap, not just $2600 for the engine itself.

thanks
rwd-sr-faq-version-2-0-t306956.html

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speedeast
Posts: 1610
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
Location: Orlando, Fl

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^That link comes from the SR-Swap gods themselves - cherish it.

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tmwnn
Posts: 114
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:15 pm
Car: '93 240sx

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speedeast wrote:^ 14.6 is high, they should read between 11.2 and 11.8 I believe. You should replace it.
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Agreed. The car is running fine, but that's not to say it could drop that injector just like what happened to the other one. That being said... you COULD wait until it drops out. As you saw before, running on 3 cylinders is shaky... but it'll get you home. If you have the money, do it.
Good to know I'll swap it as soon as I have the time. I picked up an extra injector so yes I do have one that reads within specs...

I'll be installing some high durometer polyurethane engine mounts as well since the whole ordeal reminded me how worn my mounts are.

Thanks again :bigthumb:

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billabong093
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Car: 1990 S13 Hatch

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So i just finished breaking in my clutch, i went for 250 miles and kept it under 3k rpms the whole time (not easy.. lol) and today i let loose a little. I thought i fixed this problem completely but i guess not. Today i was accelerating on the highway, i was doing probably around 80 in 4th gear, about to shift into 5th. So im not sure how many rpms that is, probably a little over 4k. Anyway, at this point, the car just completely loses all power. No gas pedal. I start rapidly decelerating for 2 or 3 seconds (the whole time, like, pumping the gas pedal trying to get it to kick back in) and then it catches and everything is fine. The thing is though, sometimes i can cruise fine at 85mph. Any ideas?


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