Yes, the factory 240sx O2 sensor is a narrow band O2 sensor. Any standard replacement O2 sensor will work (check www.sparkplugs.com). Wide band O2 sensors are typically only used while dyno tuning.WhiteZenki23 wrote:i just bougt a air/fuel rati gauge and it only works for narrow band o2 sensors.
my q's is: will my 240sx o2 sensor work with the a/f gauge ?
PS wat others o2 sensor can i use to make it work with my gauge.
givve examples please!
Get a bunch of PS fluid or transmission oil or something and fill the bish up, then spin the pulley. Try and make a re-circulatory system on it I guess.KYZAAC wrote:after getting some parts together for the sr swap, i noticed the sr p/s pump was non hicas, i found a sr hicas bracket online so i could use the ka p/s pump, but i never thought i would be using anything from the ka motor when i removed it a few months ago, and i just left it in the corner of the garage collecting dust, i never bothered to plug the holes, i do alot of welding/grinding out there and there could be a chance of metal shavings and s*** inside. is there anyway to "flush" it out as a precaution without taking it apart?
wait, you you have a lightweight flywheel? i've heard stories of chatter with flywheel upgrades...truckmtr240 wrote:Yes its a kind of chatter. Its not horrible, just annoying. Would replacing the clutch fix the problem?
I think worn synchros would do that; I'll look into it.billabong093 wrote:Problem with my car. In gears 1-3 anytime i let off the gas (could be at 2k, 3k, 4k etc.) and let the car decelerate, there's a loud scraping noise. It sounds like metal being dragged across metal, its pretty horrible. If im in 4th or 5th gear and i let off it doesn't do this. Also if im in say, 3rd gear, i let off, it starts making the noise, and then i pull it into neutral, it immediately stops making the noise and just coasts quietly no problem. Any ideas? thanks.
Just in case you haven't ordered this yet, I can attest to the fact that the it's the same. I took carpet out of a hatch and put it in my coupe. Worked perfectly.nismoracingsx wrote:Thats all I wanted to order for now was the passenger cabin carpet, neways, thx for the quick answer, can't wait to get some new carpetPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Well, I'm sure some portion of it will be different (specifically, the trunk area), but the passenger cabin from the back seat forward should be the same.
I'm almost positive it's just the cabin area.PyR0NiAk wrote:Trunk as well, or just the cabin area?
I would recommend 18ga cold-rolled steel... that's .0478" thick (~1/21")KYZAAC wrote:what gauge sheet metal would be best to patch a piece of the engine bay and shock tower on my s13?
might just be easier to fab something else up... something I've done before and I don't know if it will work for your application, but I've taken a smaller nut and aligned it perfectly over the broken off bolt and threw a spot weld right inside of it... take a picture.KYZAAC wrote:thanks man
any tips on removing snapped bolts from veryy tight spaces? i was taking the transmission out of my moms escort and one of the mounting bolts snapped, its impossible to get at, i could barley get the open end of a wrench on it, no chance of getting a drill in there to use an easy out. i tried welding a bolt to it but its pretty much flush and have nothing to weld to. i don't know what else to try
Thanks PyR0NiAk and Speedeast for your replies.tmwnn wrote:I'm hoping someone can help me.
Today I was driving to work, and car was running perfectly fine. All of a sudden, it started to feel as if it was bogging down a bit, and then it started shaking like a tank at a red light, very noticeable. It also felt like the exhaust was "burping" a bit? Don't really know how to describe it, just felt and sounded like the exhaust wasn't flowing smoothly.
I pulled over and did a quick check on the vacuum hoses on my intake pipe, checked the coil cables to see if they were loose, but I didn't know what else to look for. I turned the car on and I could see the engine shaking BADLY, its like it was trying to jump out of the engine bay.
Any thoughts? I'll try to check the spark plugs asap and see if I can find any vacuum leaks....but what else could it be?
Also, my engine has always had a bit of a shake...should I replace the engine mounts or install a torque dampener? would the dampener even make a difference?
thanks
rwd-sr-faq-version-2-0-t306956.htmlMitchum wrote:I have a few questions about an SR swap- I'm interested in finding out ALL the parts id need(or should do) at the time of the swap.
Obviously I need the engine. im also doing a 5 speed at the same time.
SR20DET(gaskets/plugs/etc)
Radiator(electric fans)
Intake
Exhaust
Transmission
clutch
flywheel
5 speed swap kit from enjuku racing?
I would like to get as close as I can to a realistic cost of the engine and transmission swap, not just $2600 for the engine itself.
thanks
speedeast wrote:^ 14.6 is high, they should read between 11.2 and 11.8 I believe. You should replace it.
Good to know I'll swap it as soon as I have the time. I picked up an extra injector so yes I do have one that reads within specs...PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Agreed. The car is running fine, but that's not to say it could drop that injector just like what happened to the other one. That being said... you COULD wait until it drops out. As you saw before, running on 3 cylinders is shaky... but it'll get you home. If you have the money, do it.