I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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justinedible4
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hey guysI have searched on here, google, zilvia, and some vw forums about diamond racing wheels and some say that they suck for DD cars but I cant seem to find a reason why they would suck.Some have said that they bend too easy but they are made for racing so would anyone else have anymore input on these wheels?


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PapaSmurf2k3
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justinedible4 wrote:hey guysI have searched on here, google, zilvia, and some vw forums about diamond racing wheels and some say that they suck for DD cars but I cant seem to find a reason why they would suck.Some have said that they bend too easy but they are made for racing so would anyone else have anymore input on these wheels?
Not sure, that is a pretty specific question. You should try asking in the wheels/tires section of NICO. Also, post a link or something to said wheels.
Dire91 wrote:Thanks!Also when going turbo why is important to get a different or new MAF doesn't a stock 240sx come with one?
The stock 240sx DOES come with a mass airflow sensor, but it can't sense enough air for higher power levels (it can't meter that amount of air... it maxes out around 250whp). Where as an "N62" MAF (one from a twin turbo 300zx) can meter enough air for about 550whp.

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TroubleBound
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Im working on my wiring harness for the SR. Everything is pretty basic i suppose, but i have a quick questions.

Almost every wire i've cut has been copper on the inside, and i've been extending them with copper wire. The O2 sensor though has three wires coming out of it, two of which are the regular copper But there is one with silver wire in it? Is this aluminum or some other silverish metal? I was just wondering whether these can be extended with copper wire or if i have to get some silver wire to extend that one. Thanks

ghettoSi
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I'm looking for a good site/thread write up for swapping a v8 into an s13. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

nightsauce
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1992 Nissan 240S S13 hatch :D
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TroubleBound wrote:Im working on my wiring harness for the SR. Everything is pretty basic i suppose, but i have a quick questions.

Almost every wire i've cut has been copper on the inside, and i've been extending them with copper wire. The O2 sensor though has three wires coming out of it, two of which are the regular copper But there is one with silver wire in it? Is this aluminum or some other silverish metal? I was just wondering whether these can be extended with copper wire or if i have to get some silver wire to extend that one. Thanks
you can use copper wire. It'll be ok

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mckmnstr
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if anything you might want to use a lil dab of solder and none of that ironing s***... but only do that if the wire is not aluminum. say its stainless steel or just plain steel or even actual siver for the hell of it then id say use some form of solder to conduct it. or a hell of a wire nut....maybe a junction crimp deal but dont just twist em together and tape em.... it causes problems down the road when you have no idea what just shorted. believe me cause ive been there. just got done finding the ground fault from a led in my glove box.... now all my stuff is wired properly
nightsauce wrote:
you can use copper wire. It'll be ok

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PyR0NiAk
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mckmnstr wrote:if anything you might want to use a lil dab of solder and none of that ironing s***... but only do that if the wire is not aluminum. say its stainless steel or just plain steel or even actual siver for the hell of it then id say use some form of solder to conduct it. or a hell of a wire nut....maybe a junction crimp deal but dont just twist em together and tape em.... it causes problems down the road when you have no idea what just shorted. believe me cause ive been there. just got done finding the ground fault from a led in my glove box.... now all my stuff is wired properly
Why in the world did you try to make it complicated? The previously given advice was plenty. Plus, I don't know why you say "none of that ironing s***..." considering I made my entire wiring harness using pieces of another wiring harness and a wal-mart soldering iron.

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PyR0NiAk
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justinedible4 wrote:hey guysI have searched on here, google, zilvia, and some vw forums about diamond racing wheels and some say that they suck for DD cars but I cant seem to find a reason why they would suck.Some have said that they bend too easy but they are made for racing so would anyone else have anymore input on these wheels?
The reason a wheel designed for racing would suck for a DD and bend too easy, is they try to make a wheel designed for racing as light as possible. Generally, the lighter you make something the more fragile it becomes.

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PyR0NiAk
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ghettoSi wrote:I'm looking for a good site/thread write up for swapping a v8 into an s13. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It's going to be completely different depending on which engine you drop in your car. You need to first decide what engine you want to put in it. A lot of people have dropped LSx series engines in theirs so that's probably the swap you'll receive the most help with.

Start by checking here: zeromain?id=173

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bigwhiteboybob
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[how do i post a picture?

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mckmnstr
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you add the IMG][/IMG deal with the brackets... then in between the brackets you insert the pictures location on the internet i right click the picture select copy image location then paste it in between the two image brackets.
bigwhiteboybob wrote:[how do i post a picture?

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bigwhiteboybob
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ty

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Patarach
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Just double checking but a slightly bent front sway bar can cause an uneven sitting car correct?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Patarach wrote:Just double checking but a slightly bent front sway bar can cause an uneven sitting car correct?
It might, but it would be a very slightly uneven sitting car. Usually uneven cars are caused by a suspension mount being broken or bent... or a spring being broken.

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mckmnstr
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and lets not forget blown suspension like mine is... all the way around i have all kinds of body roll and it dont always un-roll.
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
It might, but it would be a very slightly uneven sitting car. Usually uneven cars are caused by a suspension mount being broken or bent... or a spring being broken.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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If your dampers were blown you would just bounce for an excessively long time.

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mckmnstr
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and thats verry true cause when i hit railroad tracks its like the wave weeeeeeeeeeeeee up and down side to side... my entire suspension is pretty much blown.... shocks, springs, rods, bushings, dampers, tension rods, possibly tweeked out sway bars, basically all of it in between there too. ive been real hard on the car but ima treat it right with some tein super drifts and edfc module. and possibly a nismo clutch locking differential.... or stick to the lsd idk yet. then after all the handling is complete sr20 gets dropped in.... or rb26 damnit i cant make up my mind... well my money will do that sr it is

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OutToWinPAHC
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Invest into an arms set, end links, balljoints and remaining bushings before you go swapping.

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mckmnstr
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yea that was the plan handling then power. but here is my question on parallel wiring if i attach a hot lead to a metal plate and a ground to the led wire will that work.... basically i would solder the positive and negative side of all but one led to the metal plate with power in it, and on the last led in the sequence i leave the ground lead out and ground it... will this work or will only the last led light up? or will i create multiple shorts on each led solderd to the plate....... i was going to test this idea out first on just a row of 5 for my glove box. the reason i want to do this is so they are all aligned in a row and to save on wiring times supply and such. so any one know? or do i have to do it the normal way with lots of wires?

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OutToWinPAHC
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Sounds like you are talking about LEDs and putting them in parallel. SO yeah you can use two BUS bars to do so. Anode to + Cathode to - just make sure they are rated 12V if not ad resistor across the bus too 2ohm 25W min

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Nizmo-Nuts
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A pretty off-topic question but, I was under my car and noticed that my rear o2 sensor is gone. The PO installed a whole new exhaust (header back). Does any one know where I could get one (cheap). I know bosche makes universal ones, but this is a skinny three wire.

rootS13
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I just want to clear something up real quick before I spend more money.

My right headlight is currently out. I replaced the bulb and it still doesnt turn on. I just replaced the fuse as well. When I have my high beams on, it works fine. From what Ive searched, Im leaning towards the headlight switch. Could it be anything else? If it is the switch, is that the only piece I need.. or do I need any wires, etc?

Thanks in advance.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Nizmo-Nuts wrote: A pretty off-topic question but, I was under my car and noticed that my rear o2 sensor is gone. The PO installed a whole new exhaust (header back). Does any one know where I could get one (cheap). I know bosche makes universal ones, but this is a skinny three wire.
You can get an OE NGK unit from http://www.sparkplugs.com who also happens to be a NICO sponsor.
rootS13 wrote:I just want to clear something up real quick before I spend more money.

My right headlight is currently out. I replaced the bulb and it still doesnt turn on. I just replaced the fuse as well. When I have my high beams on, it works fine. From what Ive searched, Im leaning towards the headlight switch. Could it be anything else? If it is the switch, is that the only piece I need.. or do I need any wires, etc?

Thanks in advance.
I would grab a multi meter and see if you are getting voltage at the harness when you turn the switch on. I would think that if the other light is working, then it wouldn't be the switch.

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mckmnstr
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that doesn't sound like parallel wiring to me if anything only the first light would light up, i have to go positive connect to the negative of the next led and repeat until done then ground... but i do it backwards id run the power thru the led all the way to my switch then use my switch to ground. either way works just the same but ive got it going now im just mounting each one to a plastic bar and soldering copper wire in parallel to each led. should be fun

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Dire91
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What would be the best way to patch up the holes created by the screws to hold on the license plate on my koukis front bumper.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Fiberglass, bondo... pick your poison.

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Dire91
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Goin KA-T in the summer, looking to get a BRM Exhaust should I go 2.5" or 3"? Also from your guys personal experience what size resonator would be best 14", 18" or 22"?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Have you read the BRM thread? I think that is all discussed in there. Personally, I would go 3" with the largest resonator possible.

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Dire91
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I'm a little confused, does the AEM Patch/Extension Harness connect the ECU straight to the FIC or does it come off the FIC and connect it to gauges and such?

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TrevDaddy
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I just bought a KA24DE out of a 1996 240. I also bought an ecu/harness, but those are from a 1991-1992 S13 DOHC. Will it all work together or have I just wasted my money on the electronics?

I'm dropping all of this into an old datsun pickup.


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