How hard is it to make 200hp?

[Silvia_Freak]

How hard would it be to make atleast 200hp or more? What would be needed?

Exhaust System (with Test pipe)Underdrive Pulleys.Ground Wire kit.Custom ITB from Suzuki ITB 750cc with custom Pleneum to run FRONT MOUNT COLD AIT INTAKE.Spark PLugs from DENSOSPARK PLUG WIRES from NologyNew BatteryStage 2 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.I also already have a Shaved Valves

Also...... I was thinking about doing engine internal work.What is needed for that? What kind of pistons and cams.I was thinking ........from Race Engineering . COmI would by bigger pistons and vavles and have the whole bore and port and polish thing going on. And also a new or used crankshaft balanced and cut.

[onosqv]

200 bhp or 200 whp? n/a or turbo?

Turbo is much easier to do. N/A will require extensive internal engine work.

This has been discussed a lot before, try reading through the stickies/searching/etc.

[Bigvinnie]

N/A will require extensive internal engine work.

I don't find that info to be very accurate. N/A is as affordable as you make it. With JWT cams, and a better engine management the KA could make 200CHP with no problems. Of course with the acception of some free mods and a cheap exhaust.

[Silvia_Freak]

Yea im talking about N/a. I really dont want to go the turbo route. CHP or WHP it does'nt matter to me. As long as it can hold its own agianst other cars.

[Ni2s4s0aSnX]

Nothing is hard if you have enough money.

[Silvia_Freak]

That seems to be all the time.

[onosqv]

I don't find that info to be very accurate. N/A is as affordable as you make it. With JWT cams, and a better engine management the KA could make 200CHP with no problems. Of course with the acception of some free mods and a cheap exhaust.

I'm talking about whp. There are very few 240 n/a that are making that kind of power. And the ones that are, the costs are usually not under $5k.

[Ajax]

My 240 still under construction will not be making 200 rwhp NA- at least I seriously doubt it. And it is costing more than $5k- if you can do the work itself, you might be able to get parts for around that much... I had to replace a lot of stuff too.

[dickie]

"being able to hold its own against other cars" is subjective. you need to be more specific. throwing out an arbitrary power level like 200hp and then saying it doesnt matter whether its crank or at the wheels is confusing and makes it that much harder to get an answer...

maybe do some research and get some more solid and clear-cut goals and then ask better questions

[onosqv]

"being able to hold its own against other cars" is subjective. you need to be more specific. throwing out an arbitrary power level like 200hp and then saying it doesnt matter whether its crank or at the wheels is confusing and makes it that much harder to get an answer...

maybe do some research and get some more solid and clear-cut goals and then ask better questions

Also, it all depends on where you want to hold your own and what "other cars" you want to hold against.

You could leave your hp as is, do some suspension mods and "hold your own" against most cars through canyons/autox/etc depending on your driving ability.

if you are drag racing, 200whp will only do so much, even w/ very good launches/etc. You will dominate a few group of cars, but the n/a KA hasn't really gone much more whp than 200 or so to the wheels.

Don't get me wrong, there are many advantages of building an n/a ka - probably less problems w/ cops when they pop your hood, much more linear power curve, which should help you more in autox than a turbo and probably road racing, etc, etc.

My 240 still under construction will not be making 200 rwhp NA- at least I seriously doubt it. And it is costing more than $5k- if you can do the work itself, you might be able to get parts for around that much... I had to replace a lot of stuff too.

Finally, someone whose actually building an n/a ka, haha . I remembered it costs way more than $5k, I just couldn't reference the thread I read (believe it was on FreshAlloy).

[Ajax]

zerothread?id=107938its unfortunately taken 8 months more than intended- I've had so much bad car karma this year its sickening... but the car is just about done, and I should be picking it up in January (then again, I've given 5 other pick up dates that were unsuccessful- I tell you I have the patience of a god!)

[InsanityInc]

How hard would it be to make atleast 200hp or more? What would be needed?

Exhaust System (with Test pipe)Underdrive Pulleys.Ground Wire kit.Custom ITB from Suzuki ITB 750cc with custom Pleneum to run FRONT MOUNT COLD AIT INTAKE.Spark PLugs from DENSOSPARK PLUG WIRES from NologyNew BatteryStage 2 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.I also already have a Shaved Valves

Also...... I was thinking about doing engine internal work.What is needed for that? What kind of pistons and cams.I was thinking ........from Race Engineering . COmI would by bigger pistons and vavles and have the whole bore and port and polish thing going on. And also a new or used crankshaft balanced and cut.

Ok. It's obvious you're new to modifying cars. Trying to jump into internal work when you don't know crap is a bad idea. Start with the basics and build your way up.

Yes, 200whp is attainable, but will require internal work. You could probably get 200chp without internal work.

My first suggestion is to ignore sources that make wild claims. Spark plugs and plug wires won't make your car gain any power unless your car needs new ones anyway. Same with a ground wire kit. Hell, probably all a ground wire kit will do is help your idle a bit, but in reality it's a lot cheaper to make your own grounds.

Also, ITBs are meant to be run without an intake system, and a "front mount cold air intake" isn't a real part. A front mount intercooler is for a turbocharged engine, a cold air intake is something completely different (and completely pointless, but that's for another day).

All in all, I suggest you go out and read up on some basics of how engines work from reputable sources (read: books and a select few internet sites) before you jump into any crazy engine work.

[skatanic28]

has anyone even seen an n/a KA putting 185+ to the wheels? i see post after post of capability, just not results. just wondering...

[Ajax]

has anyone even seen an n/a KA putting 185+ to the wheels? i see post after post of capability, just not results. just wondering...

I hope to have mine dyno'ed early spring after a good break-in (early May, maybe). I think I may get close to this number but who knows...

[skatanic28]

I hope to have mine dyno'ed early spring after a good break-in (early May, maybe). I think I may get close to this number but who knows...

i remember reading about your setup, i think you have a very good chance.its good to see someone actually going through with a build.

[Silvia_Freak]

Well.... I dont want to agrue. But I seen in JCW magazine that They have a Front mont intake for a civic. http://www.jcwsportcompact.com

Yea I already need new plugs so I was gonna go ahead and jump into that mess. But yea. Whatever info or feedback will help.

Yea about the ITB the reason im doing that way im doing it is becuase i dont want to go the megasquirt route.

[InsanityInc]

Well.... I dont want to agrue. But I seen in JCW magazine that They have a Front mont intake for a civic.

Are you talking about the air intakes that look like an intercooler? Those are for ricers as they don't actually improve performance.

Quote »Yea I already need new plugs so I was gonna go ahead and jump into that mess. But yea. Whatever info or feedback will help.[/quote]Generally performance plugs will make your car run worse. Stick with OEM parts. NGK copper plugs for nissan.

Also, there are a few KA24s making over 200whp. Many are in old 510s and stuff though. I only know of a few that are confirmed over 200whp NA in a 240sx, but that's mostly because most people swap sr20s into them.

[onosqv]

Well.... I dont want to agrue. But I seen in JCW magazine that They have a Front mont intake for a civic. http://www.jcwsportcompact.com

Yea I already need new plugs so I was gonna go ahead and jump into that mess. But yea. Whatever info or feedback will help.

Yea about the ITB the reason im doing that way im doing it is becuase i dont want to go the megasquirt route.

Yea, we all know front mount intakes exist - we like to refer to them as "interfoolers" - they will actually most likely degrade the performance of your vehicle because of the longer and more bendy intake path as well as risking hydrolock when driving in the rain or through a puddle.

Take our criticism of your post as it is... criticism. We've all been there at one point or another, but it's up to you to admit you are a NOOB and read up on this stuff - either through books, this forum & other forums, understanding your own goals and why you want those goals and what your car will be used for, etc.

[dickie]

rofl ^ one step above the ol' cardboard and crayons method, i guess... and what did you say about itb's to avoid megasquirt?

[A34D4ME]

I'm doing the following and planning to ad about 45 CHP.

Header + 2.5" exhaust with no cat = 15 WHP (dyno proven)Nismo Cam = 15 - 20 HP advertised (I buy that)Emanage tune = 10 - 15 HPSynergy of these parts = 5 - 10 HP

My SOHC has 140 CHP plus 45 = 185 CHP. Certainly you could get another 35 HP with 11.0:1 pistons and some good head work.

With 185 at the crank, which should come easy, at least I'll be able to hang with my Jeep Cherokee.

[onosqv]

I'm doing the following and planning to ad about 45 CHP.

Header + 2.5" exhaust with no cat = 15 WHP (dyno proven)Nismo Cam = 15 - 20 HP advertised (I buy that)Emanage tune = 10 - 15 HPSynergy of these parts = 5 - 10 HP

My SOHC has 140 CHP plus 45 = 185 CHP. Certainly you could get another 35 HP with 11.0:1 pistons and some good head work.

With 185 at the crank, which should come easy, at least I'll be able to hang with my Jeep Cherokee.

You should definately dyno first to see where your car currently stands.

I have SOHC (granted automagic, but still) - w/ injen intake, header, hi-flow cat, exhaust (2.5" system throughout), UR underdrive pulley, about 160k-170k mi, pulled a whopping 97.4 whp on the dyno.

Might have been 140chp back in 89, but it has been 16 years - and fuel injected cars don't usually hold up that well unless you just did a complete rebuild.

And measuring power by the crank is all guessing - it's all about the whp.

[A34D4ME]

You should definately dyno first to see where your car currently stands.

I have SOHC (granted automagic, but still) - w/ injen intake, header, hi-flow cat, exhaust (2.5" system throughout), UR underdrive pulley, about 160k-170k mi, pulled a whopping 97.4 whp on the dyno.

Might have been 140chp back in 89, but it has been 16 years - and fuel injected cars don't usually hold up that well unless you just did a complete rebuild.

And measuring power by the crank is all guessing - it's all about the whp.

Damn dude, time for a motor swap. Mine has 103,000 miles - the car sat a lot. I think she's up to factory specs. BTW, you're losing a lot in that automatic and those intakes do nothing except look pretty.

At 97 WHP I'd say your car is about dead though.

[InsanityInc]

those intakes do nothing except look pretty.

That's like claiming an exhaust does nothing except look pretty. Why do people fail to understand that in order for your engine can only pump as much air out the exhaust as it draws in through the intake? Oy.

[dickie]

removing intake airflow restriction is a good thing, but paying out the a$$ for it is ridiculous.

[onosqv]

And my motor is far from dead. It's doing fine w/ autox & hard canyon runs & has decent compression all across the board, no vacuum leaks, no injector leaks, maintained well, etc. 97whp doesn't mean my car is dead, it just means I'm underpowered.

And if you ever see/hear/ride in my car, you will notice that it is FAR from dead.

I "thought" my baby was up to spec too, til I dynoed it. I'm just telling you my experience, and if you think I'm wrong, dyno your sohc and prove me wrong, otherwise, what you think is about as worthless as what I think.

[A34D4ME]

The stock intake flows more than enough air for a N/A motor. So adding a bigger pipe is simply supurflous. The stock exhaust system does not flow enough and therefore leaves room for HP gain via bigger pipes.

As for intake cooling - the stock pipe is plastic and serves to insulate your intake air from the hot engine bay. Those aluminum intakes will transfer engine bay heat straight into your intake air. They actually heat the incoming air. You would be better off insulating the tube with fiberglass.

Intercoolers cool because compressed air from a turbo is far hotter than the ambiant air - not so in a N/A motor. What would happen if you pointed a space heater at your intercooler?

That is what your so called "cold air" is doing - acting like a heat exchanger to heat the incoming air. They ought to call it an interheater.

Not to sound like a **** here guys but a little bit of science and critical reasoning beats out popular opinion any day.

They do look tuff though I'll give you that.

[Silvia_Freak]

Ohh thanks for the info about the interfoolers. Yea, I guess Im going to stick with my AEM intake. So what do you guys think about the ITB job? I'm going to run that with a pleneum. Because I dont know of any reasonably priced. The megasquirt is cheap but you have to put it together. I def. lack in that. But yea. I've been around cars. My dad is a mechanic and he does the SHOW aspect of Imports. But yea thanks alot for the info it was def. helpful. Yea I guess if you say go with new stock plugs wires would be good. PLus. I dont want to spend 180$ of my paycheck for NOLOGY plugs wires if it was'nt worth it. NGK Spark plug? OR Denso? I have tried Denso and NGK but I like DENSO more. It seemed to work more. HOw do you guys feel about getting a LSD? Good or no good?ALso 185hp is pretty good to me. But I would like to see that on a dyno sheet. :-)

[thekage]

brokeas... sounds like your next mod should be a Full rebuild and a 5spd swap

[JimmyMethod]

brokeas... sounds like your next mod should be a Full rebuild and a 5spd swap

I think his next mod is to let X to the Z drop in an 'Engine Dressup Kit'. That's worth at LEAST 50HP... Maybe more...

Oh wait...

[Vinnito1]

I just got my High Compression KA running Last Night. I've had the thing built for a couple of years, just haven't gotton the time to put it. I broke my Clutch Autocrossing, so i went ahead and decided to go ahead and put it in. The part list includes11.5:1 Je PistonsMild Port and Polish on headPDM cams, more agressive than Stage IIJWT reprogrammed ECU370cc injectorsUnorthodox racing pulleyHotshot HeaderSecondary Butterflys removedEGR removedFidanza Fly WheelACT Clutch

Still have to buy an intake and make my own exhaust system. I don't know hp numbers and don't plan to get it dynoed anytime soon. If you want to make the 200hp make, do what you were thinking and invest in some good head work. The KA has very sharp bends in the exhaust ports which will kill some HP. I don't how much of that material can be removed due to the water jackets. Enlarging the valves will aslo help quite alot. If you decide to run the ITB, try placing the injectors further away from the head. You will increase throttle response, but will loose alot of power at the low end with the cam and ITB's You will get better fuel air mixture which will equal to a better burn process. Depending on what type of dyno you use ( steady state or interia), the crank work will or will not show actual results. Just take your time and research who you use. If i would have taken the time to learn what i know now, i would of have a more powerful engine. Instead, I had money buring a hole in my pocket and I wanted to get rid of it.