Horrible, horrible news. $3700 Built engine exploded 15 minutes ago.

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Loveless wrote:
I love tulips...they're my favorite

anyways, is the alcohol injection for sale?
Build your own alky setup ya cheap !@#


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Replacing a blown KA: $50 and 24 hours wait

Replacing a blown SR: $2000 and 1-3 month wait

Replacing a blown RB25: $3500 and 1-3 month wait

Hang in there Mark - We got your back, and it'll be better than before.

Props to everyone looking out for the KA-t guys, and much love to the forerunners of BIG POWER KA-t's!!!

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klattr1 wrote:
for people like "Mustangs_Suck" who are trying to convince Mark to give up and sell his car and ditch the KA, please stop cuz sometimes people do learn the hard way but come around and make it twice as good and make it worthwhile. i was in the same boat a few years ago.
I'm not trying to convince anyone to do **** - so stop putting words in my mouth. I'm playing the devil's advocate here - all you guys just push on him to try again and again and again - well some of us aren't made of money, and the smartest thing to do would be to sell the car.

The guy says he's broke because of the car, and doesn't have the money to re-do what he did - what's the solution? cut your losses and sell it. Start over again with another one when you are ready. Some cars will just never be perfect until you put $30000 into them and redo the ENTIRE thing - you just need to know when to give up and move on.

I'm losing over $8000 on mine, and sure it pisses me off to no end, and sure I could just put another $1000 into it, and maybe it'll be fine - but I can't afford to take that risk anymore - selling it is my only option where I'll be worry free and happy again. Once the car becomes a burden on your life - it's time to set it free and hope someone else can do to it, what you couldn't. There are millions of them out there - find another one and start anew if your money is tight. Otherwise do what others said - find a stock KA and drop it in and deal with being slow - sell all the parts that are sellable from your blown KA and all your turbo stuff to help you get back on your feet.

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we'll we weren't suggesting him to put in a stock ka and run n/a. we were suggesting him to run a stock ka with a turbo setup running lower boost. ( or alteast thats what i was suggesting )

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Mustangs_Suck wrote:I'm not trying to convince anyone to do **** - so stop putting words in my mouth. I'm playing the devil's advocate here - all you guys just push on him to try again and again and again - well some of us aren't made of money, and the smartest thing to do would be to sell the car.
how are you not trying to convince him by saying the smartest thing to do is just sell the car? the intrinsic value of the car is alot more than marketplace value based on what Mark has said. i mean, if he can attend UNC Chapel Hill, then I'm sure he can figure out what the "smartest" thing would be for himself and his car.

it just takes some cool down time to make logical decisions. rush decisions usually bring regret.

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let mark do what he wants to do

if he's tired, he's tired

if he still wants to do kat, he will

by the way, I want an alcohol injection that works, I don't trust something I built

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agreed Loveless.

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I"m not calling out any names but I will say that there are a chit load of KA-Ts on this forum and others that are straight half ***'n your setups. Then you get pissed when it blows. Look, save your money and either buy a real kit or make a good "Complete" kit. There are some places you can cut corners but there aren't many. I look at some of these pictures of these kits and you're daily driving on these cars. I'm thinking to myself how long do you possibly think that POS will last? Most of you guys cars I'd blow up in 2hours. If your car can't with stand 3-4 hours of hard obuse then chances are pretty great the dam thing isn't gonna last(at lower power levels)

Save your money and wait til you have a good solid kit before slaping any kind of turbo on your car. Do some real research too before choosing a turbo. This chit started when SSA came out with that BS manifold & that sorry POS T25 Turbo kit. Now every week I read on a forum somewhere some asking about A T25 or T28 working on a KA. The KA is a 2.4L 9.5:1 compression motor. Your choking the dam thing up with these little turbo's just making a bunch of heat. That told the true about how many folks copped out and just wanted a turbo on their car instead of wanting a fast car because your car still isn't fast with little turbo like these.

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klattr1 wrote:how are you not trying to convince him by saying the smartest thing to do is just sell the car? the intrinsic value of the car is alot more than marketplace value based on what Mark has said. i mean, if he can attend UNC Chapel Hill, then I'm sure he can figure out what the "smartest" thing would be for himself and his car.

it just takes some cool down time to make logical decisions. rush decisions usually bring regret.
all because i'm saying something else than going along with all you guys saying "d00d just turbo it again" doesn't mean i'm trying to "convince him" anything.

I'm just giving him another option - you know..so he clicks on this thread and sees something else other than "keep with it, put more money into it, don't stop". When you get a group of ppl saying one thing, it really can sway someone's decision - and ok..say he does what all you are saying, spends another $4k on it, and then boom it goes again - he'll be even worse off.

I'm just getting my word out there - sometimes the best thing to do is sell it, and start over on another when you are ready.

I'm sure Marc will make the best choice for him after some days of thinking, and whatever that is - I hope it goes well for him, I've been through tons of wasted money myself - and I hate to see fellow 240 owner's go through it - it sucks.


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duncan351 wrote:I"m not calling out any names but I will say that there are a chit load of KA-Ts on this forum and others that are straight half ***'n your setups. Then you get pissed when it blows. Look, save your money and either buy a real kit or make a good "Complete" kit. There are some places you can cut corners but there aren't many. I look at some of these pictures of these kits and you're daily driving on these cars. I'm thinking to myself how long do you possibly think that POS will last? Most of you guys cars I'd blow up in 2hours. If your car can't with stand 3-4 hours of hard obuse then chances are pretty great the dam thing isn't gonna last(at lower power levels)

Save your money and wait til you have a good solid kit before slaping any kind of turbo on your car. Do some real research too before choosing a turbo. This chit started when SSA came out with that BS manifold & that sorry POS T25 Turbo kit. Now every week I read on a forum somewhere some asking about A T25 or T28 working on a KA. The KA is a 2.4L 9.5:1 compression motor. Your choking the dam thing up with these little turbo's just making a bunch of heat. That told the true about how many folks copped out and just wanted a turbo on their car instead of wanting a fast car because your car still isn't fast with little turbo like these.
Yup - SSA has ruined so many ppl honestly. Everyone wants more power, but no one wants to spend anything more than like $800 on a full turbo kit - well SSA took that place and they probably laugh everytime someone buys a kit from them. I saw a Prelude turbo kit for $725 the other day on ebay - all brand new parts, and a COMPLETE kit from SSA. The guy left negative feedback saying how crappy the parts are and how much fabricating he had to do to make them fit - well what the **** do you expect getting all that **** for $725? people need to realize that you have to PAY to PLAY - going half assed leads to tons of money wasted and motor's exploding.

I'm guilty of it too - I bought a car with a T25 and SSA manifold - nothing but problems. Everytime a post about SSA comes up I put in my two cents to try and get ppl to stay away from it, but 99.9% still do it...boggles my mind.

I think the KA can be an excellent motor - it's just going to take alot of money to fully rebuild the engine before it'll be actually reliable....obviously the rods just aren't holding up to what ppl said they can.

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Everyone is free to express their opinion so long as it is in a non-argumentative form. Which has been the case so far.

Nuff said...

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yes, but let me say this too. Fiznat, man you spent WAY TOO MUCH dam money just for a professional engine build. My builder has built 2 KA-Ts, One SR, and 2 VG motors. They are all still running right now except for mine because of my aggresive driving (but my own fault) I only spent Literly half of that. I'm not trying to knock you, just making a point that spending alot money doesn't amount to much either if it isn't spent wisely.Do you research guys. Call up some of the guys who have been there and done that for a while. I don't know Structure but I see his posts and replies and can tell he has a clue to what's going on, You have Ryan Klatt, Rick Meir, Ivan (but he's does this stuff for a living), myself, and probbly a few others that I'm forgetting. Talk to some of these guys before spending your money and setting yourself up for disaster. Will save you in the long run.

AFC's are WAY OVER USED!!!!!!!!! They should not be used to try and compensate for an ECU (unless you know what you're doing) There is a special way to run it and make your car last but I'm not getting into that because the best way is to buy an ECU. They are all over classifieds.

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duncan351 wrote:I"m not calling out any names but I will say that there are a chit load of KA-Ts on this forum and others that are straight half ***'n your setups. Then you get pissed when it blows. Look, save your money and either buy a real kit or make a good "Complete" kit. There are some places you can cut corners but there aren't many. I look at some of these pictures of these kits and you're daily driving on these cars. I'm thinking to myself how long do you possibly think that POS will last? Most of you guys cars I'd blow up in 2hours. If your car can't with stand 3-4 hours of hard obuse then chances are pretty great the dam thing isn't gonna last(at lower power levels)

Save your money and wait til you have a good solid kit before slaping any kind of turbo on your car. Do some real research too before choosing a turbo. This chit started when SSA came out with that BS manifold & that sorry POS T25 Turbo kit. Now every week I read on a forum somewhere some asking about A T25 or T28 working on a KA. The KA is a 2.4L 9.5:1 compression motor. Your choking the dam thing up with these little turbo's just making a bunch of heat. That told the true about how many folks copped out and just wanted a turbo on their car instead of wanting a fast car because your car still isn't fast with little turbo like these.
I hope you're not referring to my setup?!? If so, it's not helping at all...

When I initially turbocharged my car, there were very few options except for the $4000 kits from Nsport, FMAX, and XS engineering...BD, IAP, Phat KA-T, GReddy all did NOT exist at the time. The KA-T forum did not exist either. At first my set up was terrible, but it was a learning experience and I wasn't running much boost and I knew it wasn't solid, so I continually upgraded as funds came in...

I have not cut a single corner with my existing set-up except for the rods, and everyone keeps asking why I chose to use the stock rods, and it's beginning to piss me off...both me and Fiznat were under the impression, from the testimonies of people on forums like THESE, that they were PLENTY STRONG for up to 500 whp. I'm not trying to blame any one for giving such advice, but honestly, there's so much hearsay and bench-racing on these forums. A lot of people who post here don't even have KA-Ts. I was only planning on making 330...well within the "limit" of the rod. I listened to the advice I got and it turns out the advice was incorrect. Live and learn. I thought the $750 would be better spent on upgrading my fuel rail/injectors/MAFS. I thought I had all my bases covered---I went overboard with the build replacing stuff that didn't need replacing just because I wanted to make sure it was bullet proof (eg, ARP head/main studs, ferrea valves, new valve seals, springs, seats, retainers, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, timing chain, tensioners, etc). Little did I know that the one thing I did NOT upgrade was the weak link. Now we know.

And yes, my turbo is small, but not for the type of driving I do (daily driving, and I much prefer throttle response and torque down low to high power up top). It's certainly not a heat pump though (if it is, it NEVER gets my air intake temperatures much past ambient temps). Not to mention, water temp was 178 degrees...that's pretty damn cold for a 90 degree day. The turbo's being too small had absolutely NOTHING to do with the rods failing.

I agree with you that there are many crappy set-ups out there that have cut corners, but I do not believe mine can be considered one of them. My engine did not blow up due to me cutting corners, which is why it's so damn disappointing. It blew because no one knew how weak these rods really were.

Regarding what I'm going to do with the whole project...I've had the car for 3 years and I've loved it since day one. It's my first car, and I've spent hundreds (probably thousands) of hours modifying it and working on it. I've learned so much along the way. The car handles and looks phenomenal....it's without a doubt the best handling car I've ever been in. If it turns out that I just need a new block, and say, one piston (do they even sell one piston?), then I'll most likely re-build it, because someone on here already generously offered me a block for free. If it turns out all of the pistons are fried and my head is completely gone too, then I may scrap the thing altogether, put in a stock KA, part out all the turbo parts, and sell it, possibly for a Miata (yeah it's girly, but it's one of the best handling cars in the world), or maybe an E30 M3.

I plan on tearing apart the engine soon, I'll have pics, etc when I do that.

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Duncan i agree with you 100% on what you are saying.. i have yet to stick my manifold and turbo on my car... why #1... i'm waiting for additional parts to come in, I have everything needed to put the kit on but i'm waiting for everything internal wise to arrive before boosting..... # 2... To put away some money for emergency (i.e. something breaks) and #3... to buy a lil beater car so i can spend real quality time on my car instead of rushing it the night before i have to go to work.... Plan ahead and do everything you can to prevent something from happening... its the only way to play it safe.. hell i even have a spare complete DOHC just incase..... Overreacting.. no... Being prepared.. yes...

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Mark, its hard to say that you were pushing the limits of the stock rods at 16-17 psi on a t3 super 60. prolly was in the 280-300 rwhp range if i were to guess. too many people out there making alot more power and even pushing more cylinder pressure with stock un-opened KA's that last a while. so saying that the rods are the weak link at that power level just doesnt seem realistic.

for example, the many times when Ivan pushed the PK project S13 around 390-420 rwhp, it would blow pistons each time (went through 3 blocks) and rods were fine. its wasnt until he pushed it at 500+ rwhp that it slightly bent a rod which was prepped and assembled with upgraded rod bolts with even forged pistons.

but some people are playing the "stock rods suck" game right now just because of recent failures which usually occur right around this time of year (people finish setups before end of summer or before they go back to school or whatever and try to have a lil fun).

only high HP KA guys that ive seen throw or bend rods so far are Duron (crazy overrev with stock rods and forged pistons-dynoed 438 rwhp), Fiznat (430 rwhp forged pistons stock rods), PK project S13 (500+ rwhp on stock prepped rods ARP bolts and forged pistons) and BJ in Oregon (30+ psi due to wastegate line coming loose on stock internals-close to 500 maybe). so the lesson to learn might be, is that if you think you are gonna push the limits alot (450-500), then upgrading rods is a worthwhile choice that costs a pretty penny but adds assurance and confidence assuming builder does everything properly.

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i know im a little late on this issue, but im offering my sympathy for you hard work gone mark. im still new to the whole 240 communitiy, but comming over from the dsm community all i have to say is stick to your guns. my "first car/project" was a two year disaster, just ask fiz about it. it was driven for 18 months of the 4 years that i owned it. spent the other 2+YEARS!!! on jack stands in my driveway. i dumped over $10000 dollars into that money pit over those four years, and when it was all said and done and i sold the car i came out with a little over 1000 in my pocket. but when the flatbed was towing "my baby" away i felt great. the things i learned working on that car are irreplacable, and im sure anyone who has spent time under the hood of there own car will feel the same way. this "hobby" consumes two things....time and MONEY, but once its in your blood its hard to walk away. you just have to accept the money part, once you do it becomes a lot easier to make the right decisions. keep it, sell it, part it, rebuild it, what ever you decide remember...its only a car, and the mental shock of spending sooooo much money is a hard thing to accept. i guess im just trying to say take a more zen approach. youll figue out what you have to do to make the equation work and get the parts you need, if thats what you decide to do. oh well thats my 2 cents ...good luck man

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Does anyone know what a stock KA pison weighs?

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Dont worry about these people telling you that you should have been better prepared. It is good advice for a lot of people, but not exactly pertanant to your blowup I dont think. Obviously it is now clear that rods would have been the better choice, but beyond that I think you were pretty damn solid.

I have to say though, after hearing more about your setup and the conditions of your failure, I agree with Ryan (Klattr). I would be VERY suprised if yours was mechanical failure of the rod like we think mine was. You simply could not have been putting out that much power, and as you say, you had hardly driven the car yet.

You NEED to pull that engine apart and see what the deal was. If you need some help, just give me a call.. I will bring myself and more if need be, we'll get to the bottom of this thing dude.

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klattr1 wrote:only high HP KA guys that ive seen throw or bend rods so far are Duron (crazy overrev with stock rods and forged pistons-dynoed 438 rwhp), Fiznat (430 rwhp forged pistons stock rods), PK project S13 (500+ rwhp on stock prepped rods ARP bolts and forged pistons) and BJ in Oregon (30+ psi due to wastegate line coming loose on stock internals-close to 500 maybe). so the lesson to learn might be, is that if you think you are gonna push the limits alot (450-500), then upgrading rods is a worthwhile choice that costs a pretty penny but adds assurance and confidence assuming builder does everything properly.
506 HP actually, on a JWT 50lb prorgram, and 32psi

http://www.ka-t.org/bj/blowup

Anyways, I totally agree with Duncan351. Just becase YOU read somewhere that someones rod's were holding 400hp doesnt mean yours will! Just because you paid way too much for a half-assed motor doesnt mean it will last. Usually when a rod goes that low, not under power or higher rpm, it is a machining error. My car see's 8krpm and 30+psi of boost numerous times whenever I drive it, and I didnt even pay half of what you did for your motor.

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Mark, sorry to hear about your misfortune. I guess you can wait a few days and let it sink in before you do anything you will regret. Once I felt boost I couldn't live without it. Good luck on your decision.

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duncan351 wrote: Fiznat, man you spent WAY TOO MUCH dam money just for a professional engine build.
What the hell are you talking about? Do you have any idea how much I spent on my build, or what was included in it? Is this thread even about my engine?

I dont appreciate you sititng back and telling Marc or me that we should have "done our research." Its very easy to cherry pick once our engines have failed, but dont get all high and mighty acting like you were the voice of reason all along. Neither Mark nor myself "cheaped out" on our setups, except on rods which may or may not (especially in Mark's case) have actually caused the failure.

Ease up there.

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This thread turned gay quick...lots of posts and in the end we're poking at eachother like school girls. Motors go bad all the time. I went through 5 on my Skyline trying to get things right.

People are going to do things their own way.

I've built every single part on my car. I didn't just go buy an off the shelf unit. So in the end when she's up and running, it will be all my work that paid off.

Am I taking short cuts...yep. Going to tell me I don't know what I'm doing? I'll have beers with ya and make you look stupid in most cases.

Point? Things happen fella's. Their were only 2 turbo kits made for the S14 when I started my build, now there a ton. We're talking 1.5 years here. Things are coming around.

Don't dis someone elses project...ever. It's usually their pride and joy. And chances are you have no idea what it's like in that person shoes.

Bench racing and building is for p******.

I can count on one hand the guys I talk to for advice.

WD

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duncan351 wrote:yes, but let me say this too. Fiznat, man you spent WAY TOO MUCH dam money just for a professional engine build. My builder has built 2 KA-Ts, One SR, and 2 VG motors. They are all still running right now except for mine because of my aggresive driving (but my own fault) I only spent Literly half of that. I'm not trying to knock you, just making a point that spending alot money doesn't amount to much either if it isn't spent wisely.Do you research guys. Call up some of the guys who have been there and done that for a while. I don't know Structure but I see his posts and replies and can tell he has a clue to what's going on, You have Ryan Klatt, Rick Meir, Ivan (but he's does this stuff for a living), myself, and probbly a few others that I'm forgetting. Talk to some of these guys before spending your money and setting yourself up for disaster. Will save you in the long run.

AFC's are WAY OVER USED!!!!!!!!! They should not be used to try and compensate for an ECU (unless you know what you're doing) There is a special way to run it and make your car last but I'm not getting into that because the best way is to buy an ECU. They are all over classifieds.
Last I checked, we try and focus on the ins and outs of turbocharging the KA. if you are going to discuss the 'do nots' of ka turbocharging, please offer some actual technical advice. Telling people you paid too much for an engine build is not contributing to this forum.

Secondly, you should know that many of the best engines in the world can and have blown. Race cars certainly have blown engines. You can still blow a well built motor. Don't be so quick to judge what money anyone spent or otherwise. You've contributed nothing to determine the cause of the failures you question. And that is certainly up in the air. Yet you simply assume the build was poor. Get a clue. Motors can blow for many different reasons. How do you pass judgement without knowing all the facts? The answer is, you can't. Someone who really knew what they were talking about would know this.

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Few point I want to make...

WD is right. A lot has changed since 2 years ago when I started turboing my car. The market is coming around with parts and stuff... some crappy some great. So I dunno why WD is leaving us :P

Now.... guess what... it's the pioneers that make it possible for someone to "know" the limits of the stock parts, or what the car likes and does not like. Hey, I've learned alot from C-kwik for example not to mention Asad. So, it took 4 engines blowing up at almost the same time frame for the KA community to start wondering if stock rods can really take +350WHP. Well, maybe they can maybe they can't. But it's practical knowledge that matters... theoretical you can discuss as much as you want, but practical knowledge rules at the end.

This time I'm going with forged rods just because I want peace of mind and I'm trying to get more than 350WHP. I still think 300WHP is doable on a stock bottom end and I will state the same if anybody asks later on some other thread. But more than that it's just pushing the envelope.

Also, not everybody who blows up an engine cuts corners. As C-kwik said, some fully built race engines blow up because they push the envelope. Hell, if us guys blowing engines wouldn't push the envelope then how would you "safe" guys know which path to go down through?

And finally, some of us did not blow the engine because we cut corners... I myself blew my engine because I let haste come over me. Just a word to the wise... if you want the big numbers you need to be patient... or have lots of dough and have everything done for you. It took me 2 years to reach 18PSI, 2 years of breaking stuff... 2 years of trying and testing... and it only took 1 night of hasteness and BOOM. If I had only waited 2 days to go to the dyno. Now I have to wait a few more months and few more $$$ in order to reach my goal. But when all is said and done.... it's all good.

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I am a skim reader, so I may miss a few words here and there, but I think this page is a terrible read, especially posts from Duncan. You can blow up people's car in 2 hours? How do you know this? That's a pretty stupid statement I think. Care to elaborate why you needed to post that up? Or where this weak link is that you plan on exploiting to blow up a car? I can blow up a car in 20 seconds by finding that wastegate line. Am I cool yet? I can blow a car in 5 minutes pegging WOT in neutral. Now am I cool? Why is a t28 too small? While I agree that a t25 is too small, a t28 is a great turbo up to 300hp. But, you seem to be on the narrow-minded track that everyone with a ka-t is in it for the hp record and 10 second time slips. Some people, drifters and autocrossers mostly, want the extra push that 250-300whp gives, while retaining factory-turbo linear power. Hell.. the SRT-4 is a 2.4L with a TD04, which is much smaller than a t25, yet pushes 14psi stock, at 220hp. Stage 2 puts the SRT-4 at 280hp on the same TD04 turbo. Meanwhile, there are numerous 300whp dynos of a t28 on a ka-t, with no evidence of choking off the exhaust, or heatsoak.Quote »"That told the true about how many folks copped out and just wanted a turbo on their car instead of wanting a fast car because your car still isn't fast with little turbo like these."[/quote]What is this? 300hp is plenty fast for many, many people. Again, this is narrowmindedness at it's finest. Not to mention - gg grammar.Next, why is the SSA manifold so bad? And, are you somehow inferring that a SSA manifold leads to engine failure? Because last I checked, nobody has posted a "Hey, my SSA manifold failed and blew my motor" thread in the history of 240sx forums. And, I've seen 1 "Hey, my SSA manifold cracked" thread posted by the owner of the manifold, and that was a SR manifold, about 3 redesigns ago. But, in the past 2 years, I have yet to see a repeat. It's all "My buddy's uncle knows a hobo who saw a guy with a friend who cracked a POS SSA manifold." Give it a break, bashing a SSA manifold just because is old and lame. Next, the quip on the AFC is also fairly one-minded. People shouldn't be going above 10psi on one, but for 4-8psi, they're about the perfect engine management for those on a budget. Again, not everyone wants the hp or ET record. And it's not wrong to just want a fun, faster car.

Duncan, you used to be someone I thought I agreed with. However, in this page, you've made yourself out as a mostly misinformed, narrowminded person preaching on a podium.

I don't agree with senseless bashing of anything, whether it's an sr20det motor, or a $150 manifold, or a $1000 turbo kit. -Jeff

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hannibal
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Car: Red Line to Glenmont
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THis is not supposed to be an "I told you so" thread. How much he paid for his build is irrelevant. Offer some advice, or a possible explanation for the motor's failure, or at a minimum, express some sympathy.

I cant believe some guys would kick a person while he's down. Marc's obviously in college, and I'm sure that means he doesnt make a $100k a year. He spent his hard earned money on this project and he needs some support right now.

Go be an asswipe somewhere else...

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Fenvy
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Car: 2005 350Z Base 6MT

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Jeff240sx wrote:Because last I checked, nobody has posted a "Hey, my SSA manifold failed and blew my motor"
not to add oil to flame but someone blew their brand new turbo due to poor welding of ssa manifold

zerothread?id=131371

MarkEmark
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Car: fully-built '95 240sx KA-T
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Thanks for stickin up for me and Foster guys!

So I finally got aroundn to pulling the engine yesterday....it was sooo much easier the second time around! Pulled it with the transmission still attached and it went pretty smoothly. I haven't had a chance to tear it down yet; I hope to do that this evening (pics, of course).

What I will say is that the damage seems to be a LOT worse than I thought it was. When the engine was in the car I thought there was only one, relatively small, hole on the intake side of the block. When I got the engine out I found a hole about a foot long and half a foot wide on the exhaust side of the block...the damage was obviously catastrophic.

When I drained my engine oil, the first quart was pure coolant, and the rest of it was a milky tan/caramel color.

Here's a preview...

The pink that you see is the sunset in the background...and those two bolts for the bracket are for the exhaust-side motor mount.



That's my sub-frame. What a MESS! The whole underside of the car is filthy; even the back license plate has a glaze of oil over it. Note the shards of metal on the frame and on the ground.

And here's my 500 mile-old oil...



The oil was actually quite a bit dirtier than this, but 2.5 quarts of fresh redline transmission oil is also mixed in there...

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sunnys14
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Car: S14

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yummy! looks like yoohoo


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