Hoooooray! Rod Knock (>.<)

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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otterman
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Weren't you bragging to me about how you never change your oil and maintain your SR? Hmmm I bet you regret treating it like **** now.

Rebuild excuse ftw though!


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IanS
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otterman wrote:Weren't you bragging to me about how you never change your oil and maintain your SR? Hmmm I bet you regret treating it like **** now.

Rebuild excuse ftw though!
oooo, Buuuuuuuurrrrrrrrn


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redtop91
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Hahaha maybe if it was true. Besides when your mom pays for all your maintenance it is easy to point the finger at the broke man.

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otterman
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redtop91 wrote:Hahaha maybe if it was true. Besides when your mom pays for all your maintenance it is easy to point the finger at the broke man.
It is true and you know it. I would go back and quote some of your older posts but I dont need to try to prove that I'm correct on Nico. Just knowing that you know I'm right is good enough for me.

And you need to find a new come back other then "Your mom buys you parts." My mom never buys **** for my car, my mom hates my car. lol

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redtop91
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Dang. Bad set of cheerios this morning huh? Tell your mom to buy you some fruit loops instead LOL.

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IanS
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redtop91 wrote:Dang. Bad set of cheerios this morning huh? Tell your mom to buy you some fruit loops instead LOL.
Fruit Loops FTMFW

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otterman
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That wasnt an angry post and I dont eat breakfast.

I'm just gonna sit here and enjoy my not **** up car.

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redtop91
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Your "not f*** up car"? LOL you know I don't get mad.

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otterman
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I was saying my post before your "didn't eat your cheerios post" wasn't an angry post.

And yes my car isn't ****ed up.

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redtop91
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otterman wrote:I was saying my post before your "didn't eat your cheerios post" wasn't an angry post.
My bad y0. My bad.

R6_240sx
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Car: 1997 240SX LE, 2004 YZF-R6, 1980 Celica GT

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redtop91 wrote:Dang. Bad set of cheerios this morning huh? Tell your mom to buy you some fruit loops instead LOL.
I don't think it's a bad set of cheerios.

More like someone pissed in his cereal this morning.

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redtop91
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LOL. Nah that's just otterman LOL.

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otterman
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R6_240sx wrote:I don't think it's a bad set of cheerios.

More like someone pissed in his cereal this morning.
This guy's clever.

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redtop91
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Wordup. And he's a PEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEYIMP.

R6_240sx
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/back to rod-knock

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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redtop91 wrote:Wordup. And he's a PEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEYIMP.
R6=pimp=

j/k man

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IanS
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So have you decided if you are going to rebuild or are you just going to buy another long block?

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redtop91
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Definitely rebuild. My S will be out of commission for about a year but it'll be mean once I come back. Here's my plan:

ARP studs and bolts for everything bottom end.

CP Pistons (likely 87mm bore but I will make a final decision once I see the cylinder walls)

Eagle Rods (Aiming for 550-600 on a chassis dyno thus BHP, anyone know if these are good for this range? Price is no issue. I'm using only the best this time)

Turned, micropolished, and possibly cryo treated crank

ACL bearings or maybe even Clevite 77

Modifying oil holes for the Rod bearings

Tomei 1.2mm HG

Tomei Solid lifter/270 cams/valvespring/retainers yadda

GT3076R twin scroll Top mount kit

Can't decide on MAP or MAF as I can't get a solid answer on how high the Z32 MAF will take me

Enthalpy Tune with an SAFC for fine tuning and obligatory wideband

Injectors, probably Sard 850's

ATI Damper

Greddy IM.

500 on pump? I think so but the real goal is 600 with aquamist (Methanol) or race fuel.

Opinions?

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IanS
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wow, you really are going all out, I wish I could do somthing like that, but right now I dont have the time, place, or the funds for such an awesome project.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Ryon,

Eagle rods are good to about 500 bhp according to Enjuku's site. I'd go with Crower (not BC) or Pauter rods. Pricey, but can handle much more.

Cyro your rods, bearings, springs, etc. too if your going to do something as expensive as the crank.

I believe the Z32 MAF is good up to ~500 whp, not entirely sure either, but at the levels/price ranges you're talking about I'd go standalone with MAP. Haltech has plug and play systems for the SR now (sweetness)

I'd contact Enjuku for some technical help with this kinda of SR build. They did have a stock bottom end SR put out 540whp. Try contacting Rhombus too (the guy who had the 669 whp fully built SR).

You'll definitely have to upgrade your driveshaft and possibly your output shafts. I'd go carbon fiber for the drive shaft (i think ~$850 vs $450-500) but is several pounds lighter and won't destroy your floorpan if it ever breaks (I take it you plan on dragging this car) and the stock output shafts are supposed to be good to around 500hp, but people run more on the stocks fine, but I wouldn't risk it and get some upgrades. I think AMS and injected performance carry upgraded ones.

My .02

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otterman
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Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

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redtop91 wrote:Definitely rebuild. My S will be out of commission for about a year but it'll be mean once I come back. Here's my plan:

ARP studs and bolts for everything bottom end.

CP Pistons (likely 87mm bore but I will make a final decision once I see the cylinder walls)

Eagle Rods (Aiming for 550-600 on a chassis dyno thus BHP, anyone know if these are good for this range? Price is no issue. I'm using only the best this time)

Turned, micropolished, and possibly cryo treated crank

ACL bearings or maybe even Clevite 77

Modifying oil holes for the Rod bearings

Tomei 1.2mm HG

Tomei Solid lifter/270 cams/valvespring/retainers yadda

GT3076R twin scroll Top mount kit

Can't decide on MAP or MAF as I can't get a solid answer on how high the Z32 MAF will take me

Enthalpy Tune with an SAFC for fine tuning and obligatory wideband

Injectors, probably Sard 850's

ATI Damper

Greddy IM.

500 on pump? I think so but the real goal is 600 with aquamist (Methanol) or race fuel.

Opinions?
Sweet man. Hopefully in two years we'll see an actual build thread. (LEARN TO SAVE YOUR MONEY)

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babowc
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so THATS what a rod knock sounds like!interesting!!


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