Hoffman5982's Super Awesome Driveway Swap- Finally Running

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Alright guys, got a small update for you

First, I'll start with the biggest news. As of thursday of last week, I had put about 550 miles on the motor since the rebuild. Since it hadn't given me any problems, and I needed to retrieve my a/c compressor from my old house up in Alabama, I decided to take it up for the first time since February. The car was driving great, for the most part. Basically, after fixing the TPS, the problem was opposite of what it was before. I can get on it with no hesitation, but when cruising it starts bucking a little. On the interstate I was cruising from 75-85 with no bucking( it only does it in lower rpms).

So the car made it just fine, and I opened it up for the first time(75% open throttle) and it felt great. It put a big smile on my face. Drove it back down to the sunshine state with no problems. I accumulated about 450 miles total on the trip and it's still doing fine, other than the bucking.

On with the update. Last time I posted I was having issues with the TPS not staying tightened down. So I headed to Lowes and picked up some new bolts and locking washers. From what I've read, the s13 sr's already came with bolts that used socket heads, but the s14(and most likely s15) sr came with inferior allen heads. Mine stripped the first time I ever tightened them, and I'm guessing after that they weren't tightening down fully. Anyone else with this problem, here are the bolts I got
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The M4 lock washers with be in the same drawer. For added protection, I put some locktite on the threads. The heads of these bolts use a 7mm socket or wrench. While I was there I picked up some new bolts for the coil pack cover
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In case anyone else needs to know which ones to get. These are the same type allen head that came on the motor. If someone can confirm that the s13 sr coil pack cover uses the same bolts, that'd be much appreciated.

Last week I decided to paint my valve cover. I liked the color, but it just didn't pop like the red one did. It seemed bland. I didn't want to do red again, so I chose a new color. Here's a few pictures. I was feeling pretty artsy on photobucket
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The color is Burnt Copper. It's by VHT and I got it at Autozone for like 8 bucks a can. I did 3 coats primer, 4 coats color, 2 coats clear. Yesterday I fount my file and filed down the letters, but didn't get any pics. The coil pack cover was already painted black, and I went back and painted the letter silver. I like the way it looks, but I feel that it's too much black. I'm thinking of pulling the exhaust mani heat shield and having it sandblasted. Thoughts?

Last bit of progress. I received my CodyAce A/C brackets earlier this week, and decided to install them today after I got out of class. I must say, once again I am very satisfied with what I received. Here's the full kit:
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And the A/C compressor
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Now, I've been trying to keep everything clean, so this wasn't going to fly. The other night I opted out of homework and instead sat on my arse for an hour and a half going over every inch with Purple Power degreaser and a steel brush. End result:
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Much Better!

I also decided to replace the bolts that held the main bracket to the engine, as I couldn't find mine. Plus, I figured might as well since all the other A/C hardware was new. Here's the bolts I got:
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Of course, you'll need 4. If you want to go with locking washers, as I did, get 30-35mm long ones instead of 25.
Everything together:
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For anyone doing this install, you'll need to grind down the two nubs at the bottom of the bracket like so:
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If you are blessed, you have a grinder and can complete this in a matter of a few minutes. If you are like me, however, head to Harbor Freight and get some metal cutting blades for your dremel. Took me about 30 minutes to get it done.
Once you have them cut off and filed down til flat, you can install the brackets, but only the bottom one
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This picture is just to show you how they are installed. Reason for only installing the bottom bracket at this time is because the top bracket covers one of the holes where a bolt secures the entire thing to the motor:
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And then the A/C compressor. Again, this it just to show how it is installed and how it lines up:
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Perfect!

I found the next step is easiest if you jack up the car and penetrate from beneath :naughty:
Bolt the main bracket to the motor, and then the top CA bracket. It's also safe to note that I used locktite on everything
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And then the A/C compressor, which you can kind of see here
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Here is the only real problem I ran into. Before putting the A/C compressor up into place, put the top two mounting bolts through first. Once it's in place, the bolt doesn't have enough room, as you can see here:
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Now, onto clearance. It's pretty tight, but still plenty of room
Power Steering lines:
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Sway bar:
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After that you can connect the high and low pressure hoses. I had to make room for the High pressure due to my fancy coolant overflow
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And last, the belt:
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I'm getting the system charged tomorrow so hopefully it all goes smooth. I mentioned that I used locktite on everything, and I also replaced all the o-rings on the hoses. Better to be safe than sorry.

That's it for now. Just need to work out the hesitation issue. It also started running rich again, so I need to look into that. I want to send out a big thanks to CodyAce for another awesome product.


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Razi
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Good info for SR dudes!

I'm diggin the new valve cover color.

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Dittoz7
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MAF problems?

Hoffman5982
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Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Got the system charged and it's blowing cold air! Only downside is it is now sluggish. I understand the A/C robs power, but not that much. Gonna get a bite to eat and then check it out.

Dittoz7- It could be the Maf. I wish I knew someone around here with an s14 sr maf that I could try out and see if there is any change. When I unplug it there isn't much difference except the rpm cut. Would over gapped spark plugs cause the bucking at lower rpms?

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Did a compression test!

They're all perfect at 150. Except one. One is at 120. Anyone wanna take a guess at which one it is?

F*** this motor. F*** this car. F*** everything

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krash
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx Convertible
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Hoffman5982 wrote: F*** this motor. F*** this car. F*** everything
:spitout:

That sucks man! Whats your plan?

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Im going to keep my eyes out for a good condition s14 SR longblock. I'm done with this motor. I'm tired of every bit of money I sink into it turning out just to be a temporary fix. I had the top and bottom end professionally rebuilt. There's no reason for this. For now I'm just going to work out the kinks as best as I can.

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badbob2121
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Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
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i cant believe all the problems you have had with this swap. Ive seen people put 1/4 of the effort you have put into this swap and turn out perfect,,

just temember that sh*t happens and dont loose sight of the finished project

Hoffman5982 wrote:F*** this motor. F*** this car. F*** everything
i think anyone with a motor swap has said these words before too...many times. :yesnod

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krash
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Hoffman5982 wrote: I had the top and bottom end professionally rebuilt. There's no reason for this. For now I'm just going to work out the kinks as best as I can.
Yea that sucks man, I know the feeling. (Stock KA's can be mean to you also :rotfl). Is there any other possible thing it could be? I find it hard to believe that you're having this problem even after the rebuild and everything. thats whack.

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S13_RB25
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Location: Burlington, NJ

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Wow that was a lot of reading! Sorry to hear that its still giving you problems, but props for all the hard work bro!

Hoffman5982
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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I guess I shouldn't let this kill my pride just yet. As long as I'm not red lining it constantly and I don't put it past 7lbs of boost I'll be fine for now. I'll just have the expectation of it failing once again in the back of my head

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Pulled the intake mani off and unbolted the fuel rail. Turned the key and injector 4 started spitting fuel. That would explain why only cylinder 4's spark plug was fouled. Would this also explain the lower compression?

The pintle cap is cracked, so I'll be heading to autozone in a little while to pick up some new o-rings and hopefully a new pintle cap

Hoffman5982
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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For anybody needing replacement pintle caps, the only thing I could find about a possible cross reference at a local parts store was a thread with model number 2-15095 made by Echlin from Napa. Went there today and they had some. They looked totally different but for a few bucks I tried it out. Didn't work. So got back online and FRSport has them for 5 bucks each, and then shipping was $5.65 and would take 5-9 business days. I've always had great service from them, but that's a bit fu**ed up in my opinion. Got on eBay and found a set of 20 for $6.95 with $1.25 shipping and they'll be here tuesday. So I'm at another dead point til then. Managed to scratch my valve cover, so I'll be repainting that tomorrow after class

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Lonismos14
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1999 Chevy Hoe, 1996 Saturn Sl2

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Any updates yet?

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Pintle caps came in on saturday(3 days late), replaced all 4 pintle caps and o rings, got it together and started it up. It idled perfect. I took it for a drive and it slowly started hesitating again. I drove it to pick up some fresh oil and new spark plugs, and pulled the old plugs when I got home. Cylinder 2 was the only one fouled(I cleaned and regapped all plugs before putting it back together). So I'm assuming that on top of a leaking injector, it was also stuck open. So now I'm awaiting a new injector

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Gabes13
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Man, what a b**** this motor is being. It's a shame; this car has come a long way. Dont give up!

Hoffman5982
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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I think the injector is the final step, or atleast I hope it.

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Alright guys, just wanted to let ya'll know where I am. Some of you might have seen my recent thread. Well the head has been torn off and I retrieved the metal bits. Today me and a friend put it all back together. Before putting the headgasket back in I sprayed it with copper spray to insure a good seal. Everything went smoothly after that. Got it back together, started perfect. Drove it down the road and back and it drove better than it has in a while. Very smooth and sounded fine. Well, you all know the car. Nothing is ever fine. I went back inside to clean up and relax before rolling out to bayfront for the weekly meet. Got in the car, turned the key, nothing. It wouldn't turn over. So I grabbed my breaker bar and tried turning the crank by hand. It wouldn't budge for a few seconds and then it broke free. I popped the plugs out and cylinder 4 had a good amount of standing water. Cylinder 3 also had some water and the rest were dry. Tomorrow we are pulling the head and seeing if maybe we might have overtorqued the head studs or something. We'll see.


For the good news, I struck some gold in the local u-pull-it. Got a G20 throttle body which is 10mm bigger and has a cruise control bracket. Then, I spotted a newer tirburon. We looked at it and it had a drivers seat which looked nice. $24 bucks. Wasn't passing that one up

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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That sucks man. Go ahead and get a new HG too since you're pulling it off again. You'll get it squared away soon and be driving it in no time :)

Hoffman5982
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Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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From what i have read, the copper spray may be the cause because the Cometic MLS gasket comes with a rubber viton coating. Does anyone else have any other suggestions? Also, since I'll be ordering a new hg, what size do i need to go with. Most I have seen are 87mm bore, but I have seen a few with 86mm

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badbob2121
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Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
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Cosworth 1.5mm 87mm... yeaahh buddy

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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SHE RUNS!

I went with an 86mm x .45" Cometic HG. Got that in last week and slapped everything together. During the process I had a cam cap bolt snap on me which held me back a little. Got it fixed and everything together and she started and idled great. No stumbling, nothing, but the chain tensioner was gushing out oil. Great. Ordered a new gasket which came in today, got it back together and drove it to class. It ran great all night!

Other than that, I made a new throttle cable bracket now that I have the g20 throttle body and I now have working cruise control. So my car now has a full functional SR swap with every amenity working. F*** yeah!

Unfortunately the only pic I have for you guys is a sh**y cell phone pic of the brackets, so you can deal with that. Tomorrow I'm going to get an in car video of her cruising around
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krash
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FINALLY. CONGRATS dude. Kudos for sticking with it this whole time and not just giving up. I know I probably would have sold the SR by now lol. But now you probably have one of the best SR swaps out there. That build is really thorough at this point.

Have fun!

Hoffman5982
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Thanks man! It feels great, to say the least. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here on out, and once I find another job I can focus on finishing the suspension. I have a video uploading now for you guys

Hoffman5982
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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As promised, here's a video. It'd pretty boring, but you get the point. At 3:37 and 9:12 I open it up a little.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri_TrknZa2Y

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Whitecar.
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Car: 1993 240sx Fastback

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Glad to see hear that things are finally going well after all of the work you've put into this swap!

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Razi
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Haha, finally.
Good job man!

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240TKE128
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Glad to see its running man.

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Car is still running great. I've gotten around 400 miles on it since wednesday. I've gotten on it a few times, and man does it feel good.

Now that I don't have to focus all of my attention on the motor, I decided I had had enough with my steering wheel. It was really showing its age. It had the infamous "abs" and a while back the top section of the wheel started seperating from the inner core which resulted in it twisting. At first it was a small section, and now the whole top half of the wheel does it. Plus, it just looked old.

While junkyard hopping this weekend, I was keeping my eyes out for a Maxima steering wheel. I found one, but it was in rough shape. I later came across a 95 Altima, and the steering wheel was in remarkable shape. The thing looked new, so I grabbed it just to see. Today I busted the old wheel off, and put the Altima wheel on no problem. The airbag and cruise controls plugged right in, and the only thing that needed modification was the trim around the steering column as it rubs against the wheel resulting in an annoying noise when turning the wheel.

I didn't take any pictures during the install, sorry. It's pretty straight forward. Unplug the battery for 10 minutes and then pop the cover off the lefts side and the back cover of the cruise controls which unveils 2 tamper proof torx T50 bolts. Take these off and the air bag comes out. Then, just take a 19mm socket to the center nut and pretend the steering wheel is an annoying baby that won't stop crying. That'll get it off pretty quickly. The reverse the steps and rape the trim pieces with a dremel.

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As you can see, the only problem with the steering wheel is the faded horn buttons, which I'm going to take care of. Eventually

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krash
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Maybe some Meguire's Plastix or Back-to-black on those horn buttons will hold you over?


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