My check engine light came on again after resetting it a month ago. Apparently I have a problem. I took it up to the local LubeFast (props to those guys for pulling my codes for free) and had them read the codes for me. Here they are and their definitions:
135 - Front HO2S Heater141 - Rear O2s Heater446 - Vent Control Valve505 - IAC-AAC Valve1105 - MAP/BARO Switchb/Solenouid Valve1400 - EGR & Canister Control Solenoid Valve1490 - Vaccum Cut Bypass Valve1492 - Purge Control Valve Solenoid/Valve
And that was all of them.
NISTECH, what is the first step? How much is this going to cost me? And should I just take it to the dealership and sport up the cash to figure out the problem?
I am very disconcerted with this vehicle at this point. My last 240 never had these problems. I would have expected more from a 98 than a 91. I hope that I will be capable of making the needed repairs because I don't have a bunch of money to shell out to the dealer for repairs. Parts I can probably handle.
The only powertrain modifications that have been done to the car is a 3" Apexi N1 cat-back exhaust and an AEM filter/Intake pipe. All have been installed properly per the vendor's instructions and shouldn't cause these problems.
Thanks in advance for helping out.
Camel
Help NISTECH...Bunch of trouble codes.
how much will it cost you. well if all that **** was really fed up it would cost you a small fortune. but I think you either have a loose ground connection or a blown fuse. start by checking the grounds at either side of your dash near the kick panel. should be a group of black wires on a lug bolted to the body of the car. give those a shot first.
I used to do 12v electronics for a living man. I thought that might be it. Could it be the ground by the fuse box under the hood? That is the only one that i have touched.
I will check both of the ground that you mentioned and the under hood stuff. I may take it a step farther by disconnecting the battery and then undo each of the ground points and shave some paint off with a grinder. Then reattach all of them with a little torque.
I have a trip planned for this weekend (not in the 240), so I will let you know what happens next week.
Thanks again NISTECH.
I will check both of the ground that you mentioned and the under hood stuff. I may take it a step farther by disconnecting the battery and then undo each of the ground points and shave some paint off with a grinder. Then reattach all of them with a little torque.
I have a trip planned for this weekend (not in the 240), so I will let you know what happens next week.
Thanks again NISTECH.
Looks like the ground by the driver's kick had some problems in the past. The paint had been shaved and someone added a nut on the back side of the sheet metal it was bolted to. I re-sanded the paint with a ground scraper and did both sides of the ring terminal also, reassembled everything and did the same to the passenger side ground also.
I can't get the check engine light to go out, but i may be doing it wrong.
put it in blink moded by turning the key to ign. then rolling the computer screw forward for 2 seconds then back. light blinks the codes, then roll it forward , 2 sec, then back, then restart the car.
cel still on.
where should i go from here? the dealership?
I can't get the check engine light to go out, but i may be doing it wrong.
put it in blink moded by turning the key to ign. then rolling the computer screw forward for 2 seconds then back. light blinks the codes, then roll it forward , 2 sec, then back, then restart the car.
cel still on.
where should i go from here? the dealership?
Find the ECM and see if it has any corrosion in the connector or water in it. This problem has to be something centralized. all the componets that have codes are all in completely different locations. So what ever is wrong has to be centralized. Either the power source,the ground source or the control center[ECM]. If I get time today I will try to pull out the FSM on your car today and see what all those components share or what logic they have in common that might cause them all to through codes.
I gave up last night after checking all the grounds and battery cables. I took it to the dealership this morning. I had a blown ECM fuse. The guy told me that the could keep the car for umpteen hours and try to make it blow the fuse again, but that would be a wate of his time and my money. He handed me an extra 10A fuse and told me to monitor the car closely. If a CEL pops back on/ or the fuse blows/or th idle freaks out again, to record the conditions under which it happened (speed,engine temp, accel-decel, etc...) to help him diagnose exactly where the problem came from. he showed me a page from the fsm that showed all of the different systems that the ECM fuse that was blown connects to. it looks to be about 10 or so systems. he said that it may have been a voltage spike and that it might not ever happen again. but he also told me that the fuse that was blown had been replaced previously and was not the same as the rest of the factory fuses. this goes along with the modified ground that i found earlier.
i was charged the 85 dollar diagnostic fee and told to monitor the car. car is running and driving just fine and the cel has not reappeared. in the couple of hours that i have driven it since this morning.
at least i got a 18 dollar oil and filter change while i was at the dealership, and everyone commented nicely on the condition of the car.
any other thoughts as to my visit to the dealer. did they tell me the right thing? or should the guy have actually found the problem/condition that caused the fuse to blow?
i was charged the 85 dollar diagnostic fee and told to monitor the car. car is running and driving just fine and the cel has not reappeared. in the couple of hours that i have driven it since this morning.
at least i got a 18 dollar oil and filter change while i was at the dealership, and everyone commented nicely on the condition of the car.
any other thoughts as to my visit to the dealer. did they tell me the right thing? or should the guy have actually found the problem/condition that caused the fuse to blow?
no he told you right. I was gonna ask if you were sure you checked the fuse. every one of those circuits you got codes for all have the same power source. but also I found when going through all the diag diagrams for those codes they all share the same connector in your right kick panel. if you pull that kick panel off you should see a group of connectors. The largest one is the connector it runs through. check that connector real good for moisture or green corrosion. a leaking winshield or sunroof drain can easily dump water onto that connector.
If you go into the EC section of the service manual. look up the codes you listed in each code look for the wiring diag in each 1 print off each diag and compare them all they all show M63 near the fuse in the diagrams. if you look at all of them you can see they all share that connector in their circuits. If you look on page EC-9 you can see how all the components share one line. This is a tall tale sign that some where in that line lies your problem.
that means its 2 harnesses that connect together and have multiple destinations. generally the letter indicates the name of the harness. ie M= Main harness. B=body harness. E= engine harness and so on. the F has no indication though meaning its probably a subharness headed to the engine harness. but in any case look at that connection point and see if you have corrosion. look for the harness lay out in one of the other pages near that one that has F connectors. I do not have a complete service manual in front of me I only printed off 2 pages from the ESM (electronic service manual) today.
I have access to hard copies and computer copies at work. I cant copy the factory ESM rite protection software and crap like that. so I have to get what I need from work by printing it there. I will hopefully in the near future have my own Asist then I will have it at home to. It would sure make doing this alot easier. Are your ESM factory US domestic?
And apparently the fuse blows under heavy accell - decel, it happened again this morning. i replaced the fuse and the idle smoothed back out. luckily i did it before any codes popped up.
i am thinking about extending the fuse up to the dash with some spade terminal to go in the fuse box and some female spades to hold the fuse where I can see it. say put it next to the cluster or in between the tach and speedo temporarily so i can tell exactly when the fuse will blow. this should help me determine what systems were in operation during the time the fuse blew, right?
at least, i think that is what the mechanic at the dealership was telling me. he didn't suggest that i do this, but with my 12v experience it will be a cinch to make that extender.
this is the kind of problem i don't like to have with a car. the kind that takes time to find.
i am thinking about extending the fuse up to the dash with some spade terminal to go in the fuse box and some female spades to hold the fuse where I can see it. say put it next to the cluster or in between the tach and speedo temporarily so i can tell exactly when the fuse will blow. this should help me determine what systems were in operation during the time the fuse blew, right?
at least, i think that is what the mechanic at the dealership was telling me. he didn't suggest that i do this, but with my 12v experience it will be a cinch to make that extender.
this is the kind of problem i don't like to have with a car. the kind that takes time to find.
actually the fact it blows under hard accel indicates its when the engine torques which suggests your problem probably lies where the harness extends from the body of the car to the engine. start the car and let it idle. Go to that harness, where it bends,grab ahold of it and slightly lift it ,move it from side to side and see if your fuse blows. if so somewhere in or near that bend is your problem. check the side under neath where it comes in contact with any of the metal on the engine it may have worn through.
Tried the harness jiggle to no avail. Couldn't blow the fuse manually. I also jiggled all wires that have a flexible connection to the motor and all of the wiring on the top and front of the motor. At this point, I am searching my mind for the sensors on that circuit that i can eliminate as not causing the problem.
aac/aic = car idles fine with the fuse not blown/not the problemfront 02 heater = runs fine at idle, doesn't blow the fuse/not the problemrear 02 heater = runs fine at idle, doesn't blow the fuse/not the problem(Tell me if I am wrong here...)
The fuse blew yesterday on a 1/2 mile run up to 110 mph/5500 rpm shift point and a quick downshift through all the gears 5000 rpm down throught the gears. After that, the fuse was blown.
What systems on this circuit are operating under this set of conditions?
Here is the circuit, only 9 more to go!
aac/aic = car idles fine with the fuse not blown/not the problemfront 02 heater = runs fine at idle, doesn't blow the fuse/not the problemrear 02 heater = runs fine at idle, doesn't blow the fuse/not the problem(Tell me if I am wrong here...)
The fuse blew yesterday on a 1/2 mile run up to 110 mph/5500 rpm shift point and a quick downshift through all the gears 5000 rpm down throught the gears. After that, the fuse was blown.
What systems on this circuit are operating under this set of conditions?
Here is the circuit, only 9 more to go!