Help NISTECH...Bunch of trouble codes.
hell no. i haven't had time with the wife and kids and all. you really think that connector is part of the problem? i will tear the crap apart tonight. becuase the second i take it to the dealer, i am going to hear you say "i told you that connector had a short in it". I will report late this evening.
m63 looks beautiful. posi lock connector behind the ecu. opened it up with the power all disco'ed. not a bit of corrosion or wear. the compartment it was in is clean and free of sediment or water. and it rained here today, so it would have had water in it if it leaked. what next master kwang cho nissan? hehe
Give me some time 2 go over the wiring.It may not be till tommorrow night till I have an answer for you. I may have you disconnect some stuff and drive it,yes it will throw codes but if the fuse is blowing consistantly enough you can pin point what components is blowing the fuse. I am thinking this is where the problem is at this point. you have checked all the wiring connectors so that leaves the components them selves and the wiring. I need to go over the circuits and figure out what you can unplug with little effect on the cars drivability. Is that something you feel like doing or have time to do? You'll either need plenty extra fuses or a cicuit breaker you can hear when the short is present.
I reset the codes and replaced the fuse. Drove to work very timidly compared to normal and the fuse ACTUALLY DIDN"T BLOW. That sorta sucks, I know. I would rather it be completly consistant.
I have plenty of fuses, hell, i have blown 10 in the last 2 days. I can try to do whatever you need me to to get this fixed. I am going to romp on the throttle at lunch to see if the thing will blow again. I hope that it does. I was very timid with it this morning just to see if I could keep it from blowing.
And by the way, thanks again for all your help. I told you I would give you some use out of those FSM's.
I have plenty of fuses, hell, i have blown 10 in the last 2 days. I can try to do whatever you need me to to get this fixed. I am going to romp on the throttle at lunch to see if the thing will blow again. I hope that it does. I was very timid with it this morning just to see if I could keep it from blowing.
And by the way, thanks again for all your help. I told you I would give you some use out of those FSM's.
This was the response from one of my car club buddies:
Quit crying you girl.
Go under the hood, unplug every sensor on the intake manifold related to emissions, you'll know which ones they are, unplug the EVAP volume control solenoid (one of the big plugs up front, you'll know it from the FSM), and unplug the rear EVAP harness, either behind the ECU or up in the quarter panel, passenger side, under the deck. Now try it, see what happens.
That feed runs the brown wire that powers all the solenoids, as well as the O2 sensors. If one of them is bad, you won't blow anything. Now, plug stuff in, one at a time, until it goes out.
You have now diagnosed your car's problem. You can also try to ohm out the wire, checking resistance, but since it splits up so much it will fluctuate.
Go do it you pansy a55 dorothy.
-R
Bunch of good guys, always willing to help.......hehehe....
Quit crying you girl.
Go under the hood, unplug every sensor on the intake manifold related to emissions, you'll know which ones they are, unplug the EVAP volume control solenoid (one of the big plugs up front, you'll know it from the FSM), and unplug the rear EVAP harness, either behind the ECU or up in the quarter panel, passenger side, under the deck. Now try it, see what happens.
That feed runs the brown wire that powers all the solenoids, as well as the O2 sensors. If one of them is bad, you won't blow anything. Now, plug stuff in, one at a time, until it goes out.
You have now diagnosed your car's problem. You can also try to ohm out the wire, checking resistance, but since it splits up so much it will fluctuate.
Go do it you pansy a55 dorothy.
-R
Bunch of good guys, always willing to help.......hehehe....
what your buddy said is pretty much what your gonna have to do but...ummm... I am not so blunt or insulting about it...lol I just got home from work so give me a bit to mow over the service manual and see which ones you can unplug and still drive the car with out it being in a fail safe condition. I will try to grab as many as possible that you can leave unplugged over a long term basis. At some point I have to go over to my sis inlaws and put her drive belt back on her tempo ,yet again. I wont leave ya stranded buddy.
Ok, here is something a little bit funny. I reset the codes night bef ore last and yesterday did not blow a fuse at all. This morning i drive the car to work and get a service light. I check the fuse, NOT BLOWN. I will try to pull the codes at lunch to see what the hell is going on. Maybe we just caught the culprit before it blew the fuse, or maybe the part finally gave out.
That would be a good thing. I just got done pulling all the connectors from the wiring diagrams for all the effected sensors. there are 14 connectors in the circuits total. 5 of the sensors are a direct shot from M63 to the sensor [no intermediate connecotrs along the way] 3 of the sensors will adversely effect the drivability of the car 2 of those are direct shots from M63. I will stop putting this together untill you post back what the code is to see if its related. fingers crossed here.
No ABS. Those diagrams look like they could be in the FSM man. You should submit this all to Nissan when you are done. what do you think about fusing each component at the component (temporarily of course). That way I could use a 7.5 on each component and wait for one of the fuses to blow. Doesn't look to be too much work.
This whole thing is a challenge to tell you the truth. One of the most annoying problems that i have dealt with yet. Other than the TC rods spilling their goo and replacing those, this is the only problem the car has had.
This whole thing is a challenge to tell you the truth. One of the most annoying problems that i have dealt with yet. Other than the TC rods spilling their goo and replacing those, this is the only problem the car has had.
electrical shorts can overwelm you unless you learn to look at the circuit in a more simplistic manner. The only thing you are concerned with is that single wire,the circuits on the otherside of the components does not matter here,only that one brown wire is all your concerned with. you could fuse each component but the problem there is you would be comprimising the circuits. but also It may be a combination thing you got going on. What I mean by that is, the typical draw from all the other components may be added to the current allowing the fuse to blow, in other words this might be a borderline current draw situation. The failing circuit by itself may not be enough of a draw to blow the fuse but in combination with the normal draw of the other components it crosses over the 125% ability of the 7.5 amp fuse. I say if you do this lower the fuse rating on the individal set ups to a 5amp fuse. I have the engine compartment harness lay out done to give me a sec and I will load it up.
Ok, the AIT code, it came from my shoddy install of my AEM intake. one of my zipties came loose and the sensor lead dropped onto the top of the power steering pulley and wore away the blu/white sensor lead. Luckily, it did not get into the MAFS lead before I found it. So AIT cosde is fixed. However, since unplugging and replugging the m63 connector, the fuse for the emissions system has not blown. I have left the computer in the floor the entire time, so i am not sure if that has anything to do with it. Maybe the computer mounting has something to do with it. Possible grounding issues? Not really sure. When the fuse starts blowing again, what is the appropriate action as far as using your awesome harness diagrams to unplug specific systems to isolate the problem? How many do we unplug at once, etc...
And thanks again for all your help Scott, you rock.
And thanks again for all your help Scott, you rock.
well maybe it had something to do with M63 like I initially thought?? Since it hasent blown since you unplugged it and plugged it back in.
If you start seeing the fuse blowing again consistant enough to isolate start by unplugging these connectors F17,F11,F35,F34,T35,and T37 all at the same time,then drive it under the same condition over a 24 hr period and see if the fuse still blows. If it does we will continue on from there but you may suffer various drivability issues when disconnecting any of the other sensors since they affect idle and fuel control. if it doesnt blow again and you feel you hit the conditions that it should have blown you will have to start plugging them back in one at a time and do the drive process each time till you plug the one in that takes out the fuse.
If you start seeing the fuse blowing again consistant enough to isolate start by unplugging these connectors F17,F11,F35,F34,T35,and T37 all at the same time,then drive it under the same condition over a 24 hr period and see if the fuse still blows. If it does we will continue on from there but you may suffer various drivability issues when disconnecting any of the other sensors since they affect idle and fuel control. if it doesnt blow again and you feel you hit the conditions that it should have blown you will have to start plugging them back in one at a time and do the drive process each time till you plug the one in that takes out the fuse.
It has started blowing again erratically. I think that i am going to start fusing the individual components like we discussed at one point. I need to figure out which wires on which connectors need to be fused. You had said a 7.5 amp should be used if i remember correctly or maybe you said a five amp. And then just wait for one of them to blow and give me a single code rather than the whole system going down. What a pain in the a55 this has been for me. But i have to get this cleared up before I can do any fuel system enhancements on the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the wire color going to be consistent at every plug so that it will be easy to isolate for fusing?
Chadd
Chadd