Hello!

[Jim_86Nav]

Hello all, another Aussie to add to your collection.
I've recently come into ownership of this machine:

It's an 86.5 with the reliable Z24S boat anchor in it and It's 4wd.
She didn't cost me much and.I am excited as s*** to drive it, but one of the POs has done a few things to piss me off, fuel gauge doesn't work because the lone sender wire is cut at the tank, temp gauge doesn't work as the neither the one in the block or the one in the intake manifold are connected. And it doesn't run for long ; (
it's can be a little hard to start and it runs rough till its "warm" and then dies and can't be started again.
I've replaced the condenser and coil as the points are relatively new.
My next suspect is the alternator as the light in the dash is always on.
I'm not sure on what else to do.

TL;DR I wanna drive it already lol.

[Rogue One]

[JB'sTitanXD]

Welcome! We have a few knowledgeable resources here

[Jim_86Nav]

From what I understand, it's like something is getting hot and shutting off. Coil is brand new and not getting hot, and the electronic choke works as it's supposed to so that leaves me with fuel.
I'll get to the fuel pump later on this week.
I've got the alternator out for a clean because the light was on in the dash and it's super dirty. So it might always be that too.

[AZhitman]

G'day Jim! Welcome aboard.

Let's start with the factory service manual. Since your truck is a bit of a mash-up compared to US-market trucks (older engine, newer body) I think the 720 manual will help you the most.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Datsun%2072 ... Manual.pdf

[Jim_86Nav]

I have an external fuel pump fitted I think, rather loud and ticky.
from what I can gather it's this: http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... ts_id=1322
is this pump acceptable for a stock carb?
I'll upload a pic in a sec.

[Jim_86Nav]

I've just taken a snap and noticed one of the hoses is cracked and leaking fuel when I move it...
So my over analyzing brain says air leak into this pump and it's heating up and shutting off?

[AZhitman]

There's a start!

[Jim_86Nav]

I've fixed the fuel pump up and reinstalled the alternator after a clean. Just gotta get this bolt stuck in the thermostat housing out and I can see if it's fixed it.

The 720 manual is missing the fuel section and the Hardbody manual only has the Z24i and VG30i

[JB'sTitanXD]

sounds like your making pretty good progress on this

[Jim_86Nav]

Yeah I've had a good crack at it so far.
Fuel pump starts off quiet and then starts getting ticky again so I have to wait and see, rain is hampering progress atm.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

[Jim_86Nav]

If it could drive right now I'd drive it into a tree.
put everything back together and got a few almost starts.
But it still won't start and run.
I had an issue that was causing slow cranking but it was just a dirty ground.
I wish it was insured.
I took the cap off the idle mix but the screw does nothing, even when I've had it running before.
The idle set screw works but won't help it start.
Fuel filter isn't blocked and the return line seems to work.
Every now and then it'll try to start when I gently press the throttle, and I can get a few almost starts by taking out the fuel pump fuse.

Any ideas?

[AZhitman]

Alt light is a bit of a clue... something tells me she's not getting consistent spark.

Pull each plug and test for spark - Clamp off the fuel line (or, better yet, run it to a suitable container during the test).

Grab a spare spark plug and gap it properly. Remove the plug wire from one spark plug and insert the spare plug into the end. While firmly grounding the threads of the spark plug against a clean metallic area of the valve cover, have a buddy crank the engine. If you are concerned about getting shocked, you can wear a rubber glove on the hand holding the spark plug, though this is really unnecessary if you take care to keep fingers or other body parts away from the spark plug tip. With the engine cranking, you should see bright white spark (with only a faint bluish tinge) rather than weak orange, yellow, or blue spark at the tip of the plug. Repeat procedure above for the remaining plugs.

I'm also concerned about fuel pressure. Was it originally a mechanical fuel pump, and someone added an electric one? If so, she's getting too much fuel pressure - regardless, I'd want to know the fuel pressure at the manifold.

[Jim_86Nav]

I think the alt light might have been related to the plug on the back of the alternator as it wasn's seating properly.
I cleaned and fixed that when I pulled the alt out for a clean and inspection, and I can't test that until it runs.

Checked all the spark plugs and the plug straight off the coil, all nice and strong white. (Quite easy to see outside duing the day)
It was previously yellow and wouldn't jump a 25mm gap to ground before I replace the coil and condenser.
It starts and runs for a second under it's own power when I pull the fuel pump fuse, then dies due to no fuel.
I've disconnected it AFTER the fuel filter and it flows out nice and even, so the fuel filter isn't clogged and the pump works.
I have no way of testing fuel pressure here at home, the only thing I have is a compression tester and that bottoms out at 50psi...
Speaking of compression, all four cylinders pump up to 150psi, min was 150 and highest was 153.
I have no idea if it was a mechanical pump previously, as far as I know all D21 4x4's had electronic pumps.
This tank has a top plate with three wires, one of which is cut and I believe it is actually the in tank pump power wire.
The other two wires are the sender unit which works contrary to the OP.

As stated previously it has an external inline solid state pump.

The thing that bothers me is the spring loaded mixture adjustment screw didn't seem to alter the idle when I had it running for 5 mins.
It certainly feels like overfueling. I'm going to check the return line further down and see if it's plugged up.

[Adverse Effects]

Hi and welcome from another guy with a D21 (87) AND from Brisbane

good luck getting parts for the old girl as all the ones i have had to get have come from Russia, Taiwan, Malaysia and china

what part of town are you in?

i am in the middle of a Z24 (blown up 3 times in 2 years) to a DT27T swap but my health has stopped me for a month or so and hope to get back in to it soon

have you seen the haul effect dizzy's? i have one i wont be needing soon LOL that will be a party day seeing that Z24 gone

if i can help and your not to far away i will be happy to have a look at it with / for you

start of my conversion thread Z24 drop in replacement (not Z24i)

[Jim_86Nav]

I'm about to pick up a whole spare engine with all the ancillaries cheap.
I live out past Ipswich, but it's easier to say Brisbane because it's on the map :P
Yeah I was looking at a hall effect dizzy conversion on ebay, just every time I've had money I've done other things like replace old s*** that has died or is going to die.

My VIN is also strange, the plates match the chassis code, but it starts off UNMD21 instead of 1N6 and the like.

Do your carb and dizzy work? PM me prices lol?

[Adverse Effects]

well i will have one spare soon lol

hmm ipswich is bit far for me dam

i am wondering why the power wire to your in tank pump was cut i will have one of those spare soon to LOL

if your doing a engine swap for gods sake dont put in another Z24

even the manufacture says you have to back off and re torque the head studs EVERY OIL CHANGE that just screams bad motor

mine has blown between 2 and 3 1 time and 3 and 4 2 times

[Jim_86Nav]

Yeah I was going to look at a truck KA24 but $1100 for a bare long motor is s***. I hate living here honestly, car part prices are ridiculous.
Anything you don't want mate let me know and PM me prices. I'll take it if it lets me get 6 months out of it till I can afford a KA or a TD/QD (I'd rather diesel too :P)

[Adverse Effects]

my Vin is different again

NGD21
Plate

[Jim_86Nav]

Read my post above lol.
I'm gonna be hunting for a Terrano or a diesel D21.

[Adverse Effects]

yours an auto ?

Terrano is the way to go but they all have dead or close to dead autos in them

i am lucky the one i got had all the parts needed to do a manual conversion sitting in the back of it box, clutch all the bolts EVERY THING lol and all for $1000 get it out of my yard LOL

[Adverse Effects]

umm i just had a thought i have never asked anyone of the links to my pics in google + work

in my Sig there are 2 links do they work?

[Jim_86Nav]

No, I have the FS5W71C 5 speed Manual (Winning) so a dead auto means nothing to me, I'll scrap it.
Yes your sig links work.

If your carb, dizzy and fuel pump work PM me a price.

[Adverse Effects]

carb works but i was getting 4Km to the Lt so there is a BIG problem with it so no point there

The Hot-Spark electronic ignition conversion kit was almost $90 (inc shipping)and i only had the motor running for about 2 months and the dizzy is good as i am / was still using it

as for the fuel pump its old but works BUT it has a brand new (and i am betting the newest one in Aussie land because they havent been in stock for over 15 years but i got a "sample" made for testing from china) fuel gauge sender unit


i realy hadnt thought about selling parts as i didnt think anyone would want Z24 stuff

[Adverse Effects]

ok i have been thinking about this for a bit

fuel wise can be 2 different problems
***************************************************************************
fuel starvation (at lest 3 different possible causes)
-------------------
fuel pump
turn on ignitin and remove the fuel line on the carb to see if fuel comes out
if it dose good put it back on
-------------------
stuck float
turn ignition on and listen to the fuel pump ticking wait till it stops or slows down
tap (but not as hard as you would crack a nut) just near where the fuel line gos in to the carb while the ignition is on and listen to the pump did it speed up or slow down at any stage after you hit the carb a few times
------------------
blocked passages in the carby
well that just sucks and needs a rebuild or replacement

******************************************************************************
fuel flooding
with ignition on and air cleaner removed look down the carb with the choke open is there fuel dripping down the throtes?

*******************************************************************************

150PSI is ok for compression and should run fine

spark
you say you looked at it from the coil have you looked at it at the end of the plug leads? a bad rotor and cap can trash a good spark at the coil

have you checked the timing?

[AZhitman]

This is awesome! Glad you guys found each other.

Now, if someone does a VH45DE swap, I'll be ecstatic.

Carry on, mates. Cheers!

[Jim_86Nav]

Hahaha, yeah already checked and it flows nice. Pump ticks and stays ticking but it doesn't look like any fuel is going down the carb.
I'm thinking more and more the return line is blocked somewhere near the tank. Will have a look when I get a chance, hopefully tomorrow.
Yeah checked it at the plugs and the plug ends and it's fine. Cap and rotor are older but in good nick.
And timing wise the middle of the rotor sits in line or just off with the mark on the cap (no1).
Playing with timing doesn't make it wanna start, only disconnecting the fuel pump fuse.

And Hitman, I bloody wish I had the coin for a VH45 or VK56 I'd just go and buy a TD42 Patrol Chassis and whack the Nav's body on it :P

[Adverse Effects]

Now, if someone does a VH45DE swap, I'll be ecstatic.

would love to but reregistration and fuel costs over here are just insane

REGO for 1 year
4 Cyl almost $700
6 Cyl almost $1000
8 Cyl almost $1200

and gas is at $1.50 p Lt (1 Liter = 0.264172052 US gallon) $5.68 a Gal and that isnt the dearest its been here 6 to 8 months ago it was $1,79 a Lt

so BIG motors are getting less popular over here

[Jim_86Nav]

Australia is a diesel market, has been for a long time now.

I got it running! I've had it running three separate times today totalling over an hour!!!
I even got it moved so I could mow where it used to sit! I even went for a drive in the vacant lot next door (it was a little bumpy but it didn't matter).

Then, the exact same s*** again. I get it all running and idling nice, do a radiator flush. Then go to move it again and it starts this running on 2/3 cylinders s***.
Now it won't start and it's acting like a flat battery... drops down to like 6 volts when cranking, but reads over 14v at the battery when not cranking.
Alternator light was on the whole time it was running but it was putting out 14.7ish earlier, and then only 13.something just before.
It's really giving me the s***. It just stops working out of the blue and it's making me depressed.


I'll buy your alternator and dizzy Adverse :P
Give me a price and location lol.
Either that or I'll go get this whole motor for $350

Just after the short little drive

I'll post a video shortly.

[Jim_86Nav]

Here it is running, idle was a little high but while it was still running before I knocked it down to around 1000RPM~

http://s1320.photobucket.com/user/Jamie ... a.mp4.html