Hello!

[Adverse Effects]

ok first of all that dosent look like the dash cluster that should be in it that is a Terrano or the like and looks like from an auto as well

they must have hacked the wiring a lot to get it to work as i was looking at doing the same thing but it was going to be a lot of wiring changes

i wonder if they put a 1990+ wiring loom in from a Terrano or something

that could be part of the problem

[Jim_86Nav]

There's no auto lights or anything, all they've done is taken a higher trim dash and used the old speedo with odometer in the new cluster. The loom is all there and the only bits cut that I can see is the ignition barrel was removed and replaced with two switches and push button start.
Everything works or is easy to fix. The temp sensor isn't connected and is my next task.

If yours doesn't work Adverse I'll look at making a KA24 alternator work.

[Adverse Effects]

ok because that is what the 86 to 89 dashes look like from all i can see but that dont meen i didnt miss something

none of the ones i have seen have the digital ODO

[Jim_86Nav]

Yeah mine is the same as yours, but instead of a clock I have a tacho and a digital clock. Middle gauges and speedo is exactly the same.
Both my needles were white but they broke and I had some orange spares

How is your Z24's alternator?

[Adverse Effects]

the Alt was fine had no troubles with it

PM sent

[Adverse Effects]

oww when you come down remind me to show you my lawn mower , you will get it when you see it

[Jim_86Nav]

Alrighty.
Still haven't been able to get the b**** to start. Pulled the plugs again and they're black as. Sometimes pulling the plugs and cleaning them will make it start.
Back to being electrical/weak spark problems methinks. I also cleaned up and ran a brand new high power wire to the starter and cleaned and reseated all the grounds.
I read somewhere else that someone had issues with the diode near the starter/alt, so I pulled that out and cleaned all the dried mud and corrosion out of it to no avail.
It cranks really good now I'm just over trying to get this PITA to run.

[Jim_86Nav]

Pulled the dizzy out and apart yesterday. I didn't get as far as the mech advance weights but when spinning it by hand it doesn't feel like they're opening.
The Vacuum advance module was a little crunchy but I gave a good clean and it seems to move a bit better now.
I cleaned up all the dizzy's internal grounds, re-gapped to .5mm and everything looks like it's fine.
I tried to start it again today and got quite a few almost starts, it even sort of started and turned over under it's own power at probably 100RPM for two seconds or so.
Can't wait to throw a new dizzy, alt and carb on it to try and bring it to life.
I've decided I'm either going to go down the KA24E/DE +T route, or I'll go TD27/T or QD32+T. Looking at around $1500 for a KA24E swap and between $2500 and $4500 for diesel goodness.

[Adverse Effects]

wish you where closer so i could have a look at it for you

if you go the diesel route make sure you get the fuel line's and the tank because the diesel tank has baffles in it

[Jim_86Nav]

So in prep for having some new parts my enthusiasm returned so I was back out there tinkering.
I noticed I had a small fuel leak coming from the bottom side of the carb that faces the front of the truck.
I decided I'd just pull the carb and have a look, I've got three interesting things of note.

One) I need someone to verify if this carb I have is actually the electronic carb (if so I'm missing the little ECU from under the seat).

Two) there's a spacer of sorts under the carb that directs airflow from the two butterflies.

Three) there was a decent sized pool of fuel sitting in the intake manifold directly under the carb (enough to completely soak a shirt).

[Jim_86Nav]

Sorry for the large pics

Carb:






"Spacer"





Fuel in intake mani


So should the carb be bolted straight onto the mani or does that piece of plastic/spacer/whatever have to be there?
It almost seems like because of this bit the fuel is just getting dumped to the bottom of the intake mani and sitting.
It looks to be a bit counter productive TBH, the secondary is pointed towards the rear cylinders and the primary towards the front but I'm not an engine builder lol.

[Adverse Effects]

why is there a pool in the manifold?

[Adverse Effects]

PM sent

yes that plastic bit is needed

that carb is just poring fuel in there it looks as if the needle valve is jammed open and just pumping the fuel in to the mani instead

its drowning that is why it wont start

[Jim_86Nav]

It's like it's an intermittent problem though, It has started and run for me before.
Guess I just have to start pulling it apart.

[Adverse Effects]

replace your fuel filter as well

[Jim_86Nav]

Fuel filter is fine, it doesn't look like it flows any different with or without it.
It's on the list for the big service if this frigging thing ever runs.
I've gotta get some decent synthetic to chuck in it, I've already got an oil filter, I need a new air filter and a fuel filter.

[Jim_86Nav]

No progress over the last few weeks. Been working flat out and I had to buy a s*** to get me to and from work.
So I bought another Pulsar lol.

[Jim_86Nav]

Oh back again with an update.

Thanks to some second hand parts from Adverse Effects and persistent tinkering IT LIVES!
It had some teething issues initially and would stumble and fart while it was idling, I played with the idle mixture, vacuum advance (was sticking) and idle set screw to get it to idle pretty much perfect at 1K RPM.
I know under the bonnet and the FSM say roughly 900, but it almost dies when the high beams, stereo and fan are on so I upped the idle a small amount to compensate.
I bought a battery last week and she fires up nearly every time on the third crank.
It does seem a bit sluggish just off idle but from what I've read that's about normal with the Zs, nothing low range can't fix ;P.

I've also just scored a genuine Weber 34 DMS extremely cheap (I love mates rates) to hopefully give it more go, but knowing little about carbs I wanted to ask about the jets it currently has.
It came off an Isuzu G200 (2 litre) that was running about 120hp at the wheels (Obviously not a stock carb).

Idle jet is 50
Air corrector jets are both 150
Primary jet is 125
Secondary Jet is 150

Is this going to be too much for the truck or will this jetting be fine?

[Adverse Effects]

good to hear you got it up and running

you got the solid state dizzy in and working because it worked well in mine as well

the motor (before it blew up) with that carb you got off me idled at 700RPM smooth as silk so i am guessing you have a air leak somewhere