Headlights won't pop up...

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:01 pm

ok in your factory air cleaner area there is a black relay box sitting down in there. Find retract relay number 2. turn your head lights off and if your passenger head lamp is still up give that relay a little thump and see if the light goes down. If it does you have a bad relay.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:08 pm

Scratch that, looked at the wrong diagram sorry.Give me a bit, I think you have a connection problem somewhere, cause according to the circuit operation the only thing it could be is a motor. But I have to look at wiring diagrams to determine where the connectors all are.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:46 pm

ARGE!! I looked at the diagram and there are no connectors between the splice that feeds terminal 2 of the motors. So break out the volt meter and operate the lights to the down position. You should see 12 volts on terminal 2 [purple with white tracer wire. If you see voltage there it is your motor.

Post by **Danrc30** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:41 am

NISTECH wrote:ARGE!! I looked at the diagram and there are no connectors between the splice that feeds terminal 2 of the motors. So break out the volt meter and operate the lights to the down position. You should see 12 volts on terminal 2 [purple with white tracer wire. If you see voltage there it is your motor.

Finally got a chace to check it... I'm getting 5 volts on the purple wire with white tracer when the lights are in the down position.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:51 am

on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?

Post by **Danrc30** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:49 pm

NISTECH wrote:on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?

I only checked the one that won't go down...

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:24 pm

Check the other I am curious to see if it is getting full power or only partial.

Post by **Danrc30** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:49 am

I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.

The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?

Post by **CaoBoY** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:24 am

sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!

Post by **Danrc30** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:45 am

CaoBoY wrote:sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!

How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?

Post by **NISTECH** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:52 pm

Danrc30 wrote:I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.

The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?

Yep or the wires in the immediate area.

Post by **CaoBoY** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:40 pm

Danrc30 wrote:
How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?

nistech can get you one, he owes me! lol i gave him my transmission for free, maybe he can spread the givingness and give you one! lol sorryi couldnt help, htats about all i can do. good luck though!

Post by **NISTECH** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 3:38 am

LOL yeah and that trans is still sitting right where I set it in my garage the day I brought it home. As I look around in my garage I dont seem to have any silvia clips sittin around though.

Post by **ma61_84** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:07 pm

ive got this problem too only mine is much worse, the plastic connector that goes behind the headlight is melting at the connection. if i remove the second to last relay located near the air filter they pop up but then i have no power to the headlight. after taking it to an auto electrician they have stuffed it up even more now they dont pop up at all even with the relay removed. so frustrating. can anyone help?

Post by **ma61_84** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 4:10 am

nistech if ur out there i need ur help, ive got the same problem as Dan, if u could explain in easy to understand format i would really appreciate it thanks

Post by **NISTECH** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 3:24 pm

Man the way you got it is the simplest way I can could give it to ya. The circuit is very complex , It has multiple functions and uses the time control unit to determine head light location and direction of travel. My first suggestion would be to correct the melted socket. Then check your grounds at the motor brakets , make sure they are clean and secure.

Post by **ma61_84** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 10:29 pm

yeah ive checked the grounds and replaced the socket, is the blue relay behind the radio stuffed?is it the one with the plastic cover and have a square shape? do i replace this relay? cheers.ps my msn is '[email protected]' if u could help me fix it i would really be grateful

Post by **NISTECH** » Fri Sep 30, 2005 1:42 am

I dont use messenger. I think what your looking for behind the radio is the Diode pack. It just looks like a connector with a blind plug in it. It may be wrapped in tape along the harness. Once you get a visual of the connector there are little symbols on the blind connector side of it. they look like little triangles whith a line going across the point of the triangle.

Post by **abross** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 2:40 pm

Where did you find the diagram? And is there any way to get more diagrams on the internet?

Post by **jjanes123** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:56 pm

I saw this old post and I was wondering if you could help. I am having the same problem with the headlights but I am also not getting any signals to include hazards. could that same voltage regulator be the issue? I am going to replace the swith on the steering wheel but I don't believe thats the problem. Any help

Post by **sleepersilvia92** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:58 pm

is there any relays that would cause the gauge cluster to not light up

Post by **Andy65** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 5:21 pm

Hi Nistech - if you're avail I was hoping you might help please!I enabled a kill switch that no-one knows how to operate and now I can't start my car. I'd like to remove it completely and perhaps install another at a later date.

No-one remembers how to activate/deactivate this switch, so after buying this car last month, I've been driving it with the intention of one day removing this switch. I was following your procedure to get my headlamps working (great post by the way) and you prob guessed by now - my connect/disconnect of various connectors under the dash led to reactivating this switch.

If you're able to help (I would really appreciate it), just let me know what you would need pictures of.Regards,Andy

Post by **Andy65** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:58 pm

No worries - I was able to do it.It was a key-pad kill switch. I just traced all the wires and started to remove all keypad wires. In the end, I was just left with Ignition wires which were easy to match up.

Works good now.Andy

Post by **Andy65** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 3:48 pm

Good Job!!I walked through this tutorial and was able to follow the current to the #4 relay. Power was going in the orange but nothing going out the purple or brown. Before looking for the relay, I connected the orange to the brown (after pulling the relay) and the right headlight popped up. I'm going to get the relay tomorrow and hopefully all works.Regards,Andy

Post by **Andy65** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:34 pm

OK Now I'm confused and need help please.If anyone can offer some advice - I would really appreciate it. Here's my problem with the headlights: The headlights illuminate when I use the headlight switch but the lights don't pop up. I traced the power as was mentioned in this article - the orange wire going into #4 relay was at 10.44 when the lights were on but nothing was on the brown or purple wires coming out of the #4 relay. I thought it was a relay problem so I bought a new one from our local Nissan dealer and no luck. If I bypass the relay by pulling it out and placing a connection from orange to brown, both headlight motors work and the lights pop up then turn on nicely - but that's it. I have to manually take them down, then start tracing all over again. Is there something I'm missing - am I looking in the wrong place?Please help if you can.

Post by **Andy65** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:24 pm

Fixed!!I knew it had something to do with retractable relay# 4 in the box just behind the battery. After extensive testing and studying the FSM wiring diagrams, it turned out to be that purple wire had no power. I realized the relay needed power from the purple to operate, so I traced it back to the fusible link in the same box. These are hard to see if their broken, even if you pull them out. Anyways, after pulling out the link and creating my own (with wires), lights worked perfectly. I'll be going tomorrow and get myself a link to fit in here.Whew!!

Post by **Crazian609** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:08 pm

First Off I would like to Thank Nistech for all the help... I got pretty good using the volt meter... BUT I STILL NEED HELP...

After doing everything like u said testing votage from the switch to the Relays and Diode pack.. Everything tested A OK.. Power to everything.. my problem is my RET MTR Fuse located in the Fuse box next to the bat. It pops every time I try to push the Headlight Master button. My headlights Do go up and down if I jump the two connectors (Ya i know thats stupid cause itll eventually burn other things) But i got axious to try.. So I know everything is working UP to that point...

My hypothesis is that my wire to that fuse is grounding out... The car is completly stock.. Never lowered so Tire rubbage is not possible to the harness on the Driverside fender... Thing Is I dont know where that wire runs toWere it connects to.Were to start to test.The wire color to the RET MTR 25a Fuse Is solid purple correct?

Can you tell me were this wire connects to? Instead of me trying to find were it is grounding out.. I plan on rewiring this Wire Hence... Ghetto Rig it cause tracing this thing is a effen pain... Thank You for your help.

EDITED: OK today I got more into it... It wasnt the purple wire that was grounding out... That wire Leads all the way to the purple on the master switch... That wire should get a constant 12volt current... What I did find was the Solid green wire on the master switch was the one grounding out... When I Pull the terminal outta the plug It no longer pops my RET MTR 25amp fuse... And it does Make my head lights go up... But not down.. I traced that Green wire back to the Fuse box were ur HL Down and HL relays are... it connects to the HL Down relay.... That wire even though its unpluged is getting a constant 12 volts.. and it looks partly melted..... So again...

Were does this Solid GREEN wire connect to? so I can route my own wire around that?
Modified by Crazian609 at 5:14 PM 10/30/2008

Post by **underground_army** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 4:26 pm

ok here i go im stuck i tried to follow u guys and i did but everything is ok with my wires and relays and fuses also my lights wont go up or down they stay there since i tried to do sleepy eyes and i got a spark so help me out here

Post by **richiev8s13** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:20 pm

i have a smae proble but my lights dont go up they come down if i manualy crank them up and the diode pack has no burn marks on it and the low and high beams work but when i flick the high beams the head light dont go up either fuse is good also

Post by **underground_army** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:39 am

having the same problem and still cant figure out anything i wish i can help you out but i cant

Headlights won't pop up...

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (CaoBoY)

Re: (Danrc30)

Re: (Danrc30)

Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (Andy65)

Re: (Danrc30)

Re: (NISTECH)

Re: (Andy65)

Re: (Crazian609)

Re: (underground_army)

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