Headlights + Elec Fan = Horrible Idle

[Katapl]

I believe it was like this before I even did the relocation. I can't quite remember clearly, but I'm about 90% certain it's been like this prior to the relocation.

[splintercell]

is your little ground wire hooked on to alternator. check for corrosion on alternator terminals and make sure they are tight.

[Katapl]

It's definitely hooked on, and it's very clean and locked down. I'm certain of that. I just put the alternator back on a while ago.

[Rin5]

katapl i have my stuff hooked up just like yours on the positive...i just bolted all those terminals and taped it...my stuff works fine and my reloc is homemade...

battery box from walmart2 gauge wire 13 feet from lowes100 amp fusesome ring terminals

my stuff works fine even though its ghetto rigged...ill post my car in the CA section tomoro or something

[Katapl]

Hmm, I thought I had saw a few other people do it the same way. Anyone think it's that big idle-related valve on the side of the intake manifold? I unplugged it once as a test, and the rpm's dropped to 500. When I hit accessories, they dropped about 20-25 per after that. I have no idea to test how that thing works.

And for some reason, I occasionally blow the 15 amp interior fuse.
Modified by Katapl at 10:40 PM 4/30/2008

[biosehnsucht]

If you're blowing a fuse sometimes, I'd be concerned about that.

[Katapl]

If you're blowing a fuse sometimes, I'd be concerned about that.

My last car blew the same fuse after I installed my turbo timer, and pulled my handbrake with my headlights on. I don't have a turbo timer here yet, but being the same fuse, I've never thought much of it.

[biosehnsucht]

Then you probably put too much load on the circuit with the turbo timer, somehow. The fuses should allow plenty of juice for their normal functions, and minor stuff shouldn't cause them to blow...

[ca18detgabby]

Then you probably put too much load on the circuit with the turbo timer, somehow. The fuses should allow plenty of juice for their normal functions, and minor stuff shouldn't cause them to blow...

agreed blowing fuses means someone is drawing too much juice.

when low on juice is your issue seems like a logical thing to check out. maybe steming from a bad ground as my Tim was speaking of.

PS tim You said so many dam things about a million grounds that I built my own grounding harness last night. time to go install it later today before I go out and do anything stupid. Probably paranoia, but it is always better to be safe than sorry right?

[Katapl]

Well, on my last 240, it had something to do with the turbo timer parking brake safety wire. Like I said, this car doesn't have a turbo timer yet, so it isn't that. However, there is an aftermarket boost gauge. There apparently was an aftermarket stereo, but that's gone now, and nothing is in-place. Do you think the boost gauge could possibly be doing it?

Also, it doesn't ALWAYS blow-out. I'm not certain what does it, but at one point, it happened about 4 minutes after I replaced a 30 amp interior fuse with the correct 15 amp one. I replaced that initial 15 amp, and it hasn't done it since.

[Katapl]

I replaced the water pump last night, and the crank was originally off 1 tooth. I corrected that, but it's still made no difference. I think I may try cleaning the idle control valve. It could very well be that. I'm just afraid I'll wreck the gasket and have a poor seal. I'm almost afraid to buy a new one. I looked at work, and it was $140 for the Pulsar one, I don't even know if they're the same. I know the specific one would cost loads more.

I may try replacing some vacuum lines on the cold air idle valve too. It wouldn't hurt after all. I hear I can't use carb cleaner on it since it could possible be harmful. AutoZone (where I work) doesn't normally have any intake cleaner, so hmm.

edit: Well, I cleaned the Cold Air Idle Valve thing in-front of the intake with STP Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner. Funny thing is, now when I free-rev to about 3k, I can hear compressor surge. What the hell?



Only when I rev to about 5k will my BOV fire, and even then, there's still a small bit of compressor surge. Did I magically clean out a vacuum line or something? It's still running the same condition it was prior.
Modified by Katapl at 5:12 PM 5/10/2008

[Jager]

ok well first things first, start with 1 item and work your way backwards. have you checked what your fuel pressure regulator is putting out per your FSM?

I would disconnect your battery and as a test, rehook it up with the original wiring. fire the car up see what you get. even if the car has done this before, get things checked then zero them off the list.

blown fuses means a short somewhere unexpected, or some unit is pulling way too much amperage for the rated wiring. if there was an after market stereo, how did you seal the wires that are likely loose in the dash? check your spark plugs as well as the wiring from your alternator to your A/C. there should be a connector that when the line is open (a/c is on) that the engine idles higher to compensate for the added work.

if your belt has skipped a tooth, set the 1 piston to TDC and unfold a paperclip about half way, then flatten the still folded up end into a half t shape or an L , feed the paperclip end in through the sparkplug hole(the bent end keeps it from falling into your engine if you lose hold of it. you should be able to feel the pistons surface, as well as see it barely if you shine a strong enough light down there. the idea being to make sure your crank pulley and cams are still set correctly.

check your maf and make sure you clean it with MAF cleaner (if you don't use a cleaner specifically for cleaning a maf you may have ruined your maf , you will need a new maf sensor)

check your sparkplug wires, your oil level, coolant level, make sure your thermostat is working correctly, (pinch upper radiator hose and release it if you feel a surge in the hose the thermostat is open. if the engine takes a very long time to warm up, then the thermostat is likely stuck open and is causing the engine to sputter due to not heating up to operating temperature.)

check your engine codes while doing this "tuneup" and see whats reported.

worst comes to worst, disconnect all your aftermarket wiring and try running the car, if it still sputters you have issues seperate from your aftermarket gear, if it does not then you need to check your wiring with a multimeter, solder your connections and replace any bent or crimped sections of wire (if any) as you may have a break in the continuity enough to severely degrade the cars ability to carry current though that wire.

[Katapl]

There WAS an aftermarket stereo. It looks like a harness was used, so I haven't looked at it at all.

The car doesn't have AC. I can see where the plug from the harness would originally be, but it's been cut off and that AC idle deal is just sitting. The spark plugs are good. I replaced them about 100 miles ago.

I also just cleaned my MAF the other day with MAF cleaner. The car has ran the same.

[biosehnsucht]

Might double check any cut off harness connectors don't have exposed (even at the very tip only) wire?

[Katapl]

The A/C Idle Valve has one cut wire, and that goes into the harness so deep, that it doesn't touch a thing. It can be seen cut and open, but it has a bit of wrap over it and isn't touching a thing.

I may double check the wiring around the console location where the aftermarket radio was at one point. It looks professional and like a good harness was used, but maybe something is touching. I have no idea. I'm down for the idea that there's possibly a wire touching something, two positive rubbing, or something similar.

Finding it is just a nightmare for me... if that's even the case here.

[Logan76]

Hey Katapl, Ind I did tt seems as if my car has given you alot of problems? I was hoping she would be good to you, ahe best job I could with the swap with my mechanical knowledge at the time. I didnt know if you saw the ground wire for the fan switch that attaches to the E-brake, but I had some trouble with that ground comming loose. Best of luck to you my freind, keep me updated about the car, Im curious as to how it looks now.

[Katapl]

Hey Katapl, Ind I did tt seems as if my car has given you alot of problems? I was hoping she would be good to you, ahe best job I could with the swap with my mechanical knowledge at the time. I didnt know if you saw the ground wire for the fan switch that attaches to the E-brake, but I had some trouble with that ground comming loose. Best of luck to you my freind, keep me updated about the car, Im curious as to how it looks now.

Well, I had a bunch of extra parts for it and all. OEM Aero, mesh wheels, coilovers etc. I just couldn't get this problem fixed, so I ended-up selling it. I'm pretty sure I actually checked all that wiring too. I have no idea what the issue was.

[skunkmonkey]

yeah... i'm the new owner of it now. i've been pulling it apart and in the process of rechecking all of the wiring. the car is kinda weird... it seems like once i get something working then something else goes wrong??? lol after i got the dash lights working... the interior lights and sunroof stopped working... after i got the drivers side window working... the clock stopped working??? still lights up but just doesn't display the time anymore? lol oh well...

the HUD went out too... tried fixing it and it didn't go too well... SO... i'm replacing it with the analog cluster. the cops around here are kinda anal... so i don't want to risk a speeding ticket for going 35mphs and not knowing it... it just isn't worth it.

the wipers are real funny too... they're in reverse. instead of up and down to wipe they're down and up to wipe... still trying to figure this one out? currently i'm just driving it with one up :P kinda ghetto but oh well... i would rather be able to see then to crash.

besides its electrical demons here and there... it drives great! and i love it!

[Logan76]

Hah I bought the CA swap off a Nico member and the wiring harness was duct taped together and they used speaker wire to wire it up, we did the best we could to fix what we had to work with. Hows that clutch I put in her holding up? I miss that car alot.

[Katapl]

Clutch was doing fine when I sold it. It just needed to be bled. I obviously couldn't do that myself without one more person.

I had no idea the wiring was THAT ghetto lol. I never even tried the wipers on it. I just RainX'ed the windshield and drove it around like that. I'm pretty certain the whole idle issue was the downpipe rubbing on the floorpan when the engine vibrated. Did you pound out the downpipe yet?

[ca18detgabby]

yeah... i'm the new owner of it now. i've been pulling it apart and in the process of rechecking all of the wiring. the car is kinda weird... it seems like once i get something working then something else goes wrong??? lol after i got the dash lights working... the interior lights and sunroof stopped working... after i got the drivers side window working... the clock stopped working??? still lights up but just doesn't display the time anymore? lol oh well...

the HUD went out too... tried fixing it and it didn't go too well... SO... i'm replacing it with the analog cluster. the cops around here are kinda anal... so i don't want to risk a speeding ticket for going 35mphs and not knowing it... it just isn't worth it.

the wipers are real funny too... they're in reverse. instead of up and down to wipe they're down and up to wipe... still trying to figure this one out? currently i'm just driving it with one up :P kinda ghetto but oh well... i would rather be able to see then to crash.

besides its electrical demons here and there... it drives great! and i love it!

you need to rip that harness out and go mega squirt and be done with it. this car has gone through now 4 people without running properly?

souds like the issue is pretty apparent. at a minimum I would pull the entire harness and re-wire it. I would think that you are having some pin out issues as well as maybe even the main interior controller box(whatever they call it). last thing you want is things going sour and dealing with

I know it is alot of work and tedious as hell, but it is better than driving down 35W and catching fire.

[ca18detgabby]

Clutch was doing fine when I sold it. It just needed to be bled. I obviously couldn't do that myself without one more person.

I had no idea the wiring was THAT ghetto lol. I never even tried the wipers on it. I just RainX'ed the windshield and drove it around like that. I'm pretty certain the whole idle issue was the downpipe rubbing on the floorpan when the engine vibrated. Did you pound out the downpipe yet?

my DP rattles....... why do you think it is affecting the idle?

[skunkmonkey]

Clutch was doing fine when I sold it. It just needed to be bled. I obviously couldn't do that myself without one more person.

I had no idea the wiring was THAT ghetto lol. I never even tried the wipers on it. I just RainX'ed the windshield and drove it around like that. I'm pretty certain the whole idle issue was the downpipe rubbing on the floorpan when the engine vibrated. Did you pound out the downpipe yet?

dude... you have no idea... LOL the wiring is REALLY hacked up... i had pulled the dash over the last couple of days and i just got done putting everything back on earlier today... the rest of the harnesses didn't seem to be screwed up at all. its just the ecu harness thats hacked up. i'm gonna ask ryan on d-town to see how much he charges for wiring. he does some really nice work.

the whole megasquirt thingy... i'm read up on it... and its still a bit confusing on which parts to get? plus I HATE! soldering... especially after the whole HUD incident...

if i can't find a resonable place locally to rewire it... i'm just gonna pull the harness and map out the wires and fix it myself. the place that i had stopped by to grab the new analog cluster was charging $90 an hour to rewire harnesses... i got a quote off of this guy on ebay for $175... but i'm kinda iffy on the ebay guy... so we'll see... at least the car runs! :P

i had just picked up a AEM wideband and SAFC neo (stimulus checks... we should get these yearly!) i got the safc wired in already but i'm just waiting till i feel like pulling the downpipe to get the 02 bung welded on.

[Katapl]

dude... you have no idea... LOL the wiring is REALLY hacked up... i had pulled the dash over the last couple of days and i just got done putting everything back on earlier today... the rest of the harnesses didn't seem to be screwed up at all. its just the ecu harness thats hacked up. i'm gonna ask ryan on d-town to see how much he charges for wiring. he does some really nice work.

the whole megasquirt thingy... i'm read up on it... and its still a bit confusing on which parts to get? plus I HATE! soldering... especially after the whole HUD incident...

if i can't find a resonable place locally to rewire it... i'm just gonna pull the harness and map out the wires and fix it myself. the place that i had stopped by to grab the new analog cluster was charging $90 an hour to rewire harnesses... i got a quote off of this guy on ebay for $175... but i'm kinda iffy on the ebay guy... so we'll see... at least the car runs! :P

i had just picked up a AEM wideband and SAFC neo (stimulus checks... we should get these yearly!) i got the safc wired in already but i'm just waiting till i feel like pulling the downpipe to get the 02 bung welded on.

Megasquirt has pre-built components that don't needto be soldered. I was telling my old man that I actually wanted to convert to Megasquirt. In-fact, if I still had the vehicle, I'd probably start on it now since I've actually got cash to use this time lol.

And gabby, I think the DP is what's making the car shake really bad around 850 rpm's. Actually, I know that's what's doing it. You can't even notice from the outside, but the driver sure can feel it haha.

[skunkmonkey]

dude have you seen ryans work? i pm'ed him and he had replied back saying he charges only $25 an hour on harness work or i can get a custom setup depending on what i want. he does race wiring too, thats how his car is setup. what i mean by that is, his car is pretty much stripped of everything else not needed and only the main components are wired to work. but with a custom setup the prices for parts and what not range from $50 to $75 and the hourly rate is still the same. which i think is pretty cheap! most places were quoting me a couple hundred just to repair it!

i'm just gonna go with that and see how that goes. since i plan on driving it every once in a while on regular roads. so i'll still need my signals to work, heat and wipers. i want to eventually track the car but it probably won't be until next year. i'm just gonna get it wired up and running properly and save up for parts that i can install over the winter or late summer. then i'll just get it tuned early spring and hopefully gas prices will still be reasonable...

[ca18detgabby]

And gabby, I think the DP is what's making the car shake really bad around 850 rpm's. Actually, I know that's what's doing it. You can't even notice from the outside, but the driver sure can feel it haha.

lol my dp rattles..... you can hear it from about 20 feet behind the car.

never affected my idle.....

my poor GReddy 3in dp

[skunkmonkey]

more like the other way around LOL that the idle affects the dp. when its below 900rpms the dp starts to rub on the floor pan and rattles. i think its really only bad when its a cold start.... but after its warm it seems fine.possibly the motor mounts are setting the engine up too high.i think its the wiring thats causing the bad idle but what i'm wondering about is why its running rich for a pretty much stock swap...?