Headlight crapped out on me, and Ive tried everything.

[Buzzman]

That's correct.
DRL (Daytime Running Lights) are Canadian only for the R50's.
I think most new U.S. cars are being manufactured with them now, but they definitely did not have them in '02.

[CanuckQx4]

Ya Im in canada but my cars from florida so I dont have that DRL box, I forgot about that lol.

[Buzzman]

Alright then. Back to the schematics for you Mr. Canuck. har har.

Side note: The Pathfinder at the wreckers that I raided was a fully loaded LE. The front end was crushed, engine was gone, but from the windshield back, it was 95% intact.
It looked like it hadn't been there for very long.
I'm going to go back next week and see if I can pull the faux wood trim dash trim panels etc. That would seriously make my bland black interior pop.
I may even try and pull the steering wheel. Should be fun.

[CanuckQx4]

Can I pick your brain on this a little Chuck?

[Chuck Tribolet]

I keep going over the data and can't figure out the bug. It really sounds like a bad relay, BUT the bug doesn't move when you
swap the relays. Maybe a bad relay socket? Or a broken or almost broken wire right under the relay socket? And check
fuses 60 and 32 AGAIN. We're missing something here, but I haven't the foggiest what.

And try measuring the voltage across pins 1 and 2 with the relay plugged in and the lights on. It should be 12V.

After that, all I can think of is to have Scotty beam your truck to California and I'll take a look.

[CanuckQx4]

Thanks Chuck, I appreciate the time it takes you to read my bs and scour the FSM. I will do both those checks in an hour when I get home. I thought that pin 5 / 7 not having voltage with the relay pulled out while the other side 5/7 did have voltage meant something

EDIT: Actually what do you mean check voltage across 1/2 with the lights on? Pos probe on #1, neg probe on #2?

Im assuming you mean just check for 12v at both pins with it plugged in and lights on, but figured Id ask since u may still be online

[Chuck Tribolet]

You need to check the voltages with the replay IN and the headlights turned on.
Check all six pins.

[CanuckQx4]

Im leaving now Ill do the test right away, results in 20 min!

[Chuck Tribolet]

If you get good results (+12V on pins 1,3,5,6,7, something very close to zero volts on pin 2), then go looking for a wiring fault the relay and left headlight.
I'd star by looking at the bottom of the relay box.

[Buzzman]

Having spent hours troubleshooting my own problem last week, I feel fairly comfortable with the schematics and the circuits for the lamps.
I've been looking at the wiring diagram for your QX4, and going over your posts again.
One suggestion is to take a step back from the relays and check for all your voltages at the 4 fuses that are part of your lamp relay circuits.
There are 2 fuses per relay, one 15 amp and one 20 amp.
One fuse (per relay) provides power to the HID lamp ballast (through the relay contacts), and the other fuse provides power to the relay solenoid AND to the high beam bulb socket (through the other relay contact).
Pull the fuses, and check and see if you have 12 volts at all 4 fuse sockets.
Start there and then follow the wiring to the relays.
Another simple test is to have a finger or two lightly resting on the relays when you flip your light switch on. You should be able to 'feel' the relay click.

[Chuck Tribolet]

He's already checked for 12V at the relay, so we know that the fuses are good.

The voltage measurements he's making right now will tell us whether the relay is good.

Right now I'm betting on a fault at the bottom of the socket, or a mouse-eaten wire.

[Buzzman]

So I took ridiculous good care triple checking the pin numbers on the bottom of the relay.

The relay closest to the front of the car, for the passenger side light appears to be good, all 5 pins have 12V (except pin2 like you said)

But on the relay closer to the firewall, for the drivers side light, was not as lucky. I noticed pin 3 had significantly lower voltage than the others that were showing 12V, it only had 10.9volts. (Pin 1 & 6 had 12v.) And pin 5 & 7 had no voltage (was some small MV number)

The highbeam indicator did not function in either push or pull configuration, but I believe I already tested that the switch itself is good earlier on.

Hey guys, after reading the posts again, I keep coming back to this statement that the voltage on pin 3 is low.
This voltage is coming directly from the #60 (15 amp) fuse. It should definitely be +12V.
Pin 3 is also hardwired (somewhere) to pin 1. Both should have the same voltage.
FYI, pin 1 voltage provides power to the relay solenoid, and pin 3 voltage goes through the contacts and on to the lamps (when the relay clicks on).
Just to be sure, check voltages again on 1 and 3 with the relay removed. There should still be a good strong 12 volts there.
Keep us posted. (Chuck, hope you don't mind if I try to help as well. I enjoy this kind of troubleshooting).
Thx.

[CanuckQx4]

Well I definitely dont have the voltage I need at the relay pins with the relay closed back ontop, this is the problem relay for the drivers light, the passenger side relay had all good voltage.

Pin1 -.3v
Pin2 -.3v
Pin3 -small ammount of millevolts
Pin5 -small ammount of millevolts
Pin6 -12V
Pin7 small ammount of millevolts

I took this picture from another thread, I cant find the fuse numbers you guys are refering to.



I pulled and checked every fuse in the fuse box, but the only 2 I see related are the 2 20amp yellows in the bottom left of the box. I did check them all visually though.

Do you guys think I have a simple power supply problem?

[Chuck Tribolet]

For fuse locations, see the FSM, page EL-31. I think you have a blown fuse #60, or an open wire between fuse 60 and relay pins 1&3. It is in the fuse and fusible link box under the hood. Ah, that's in your picture. Is the top of the picture towards the front
of the truck, or the bottom?

[Buzzman]

The first pic is of the relay box on the driver's side, inner fender.
The second pic is of the fuse box on the passengers side, inner fender just above the battery.
Does that sound right?
The four fuses you are looking for should be in that fuse box next to the battery.

I took this picture from another thread, I cant find the fuse numbers you guys are referring to.

My Pathfinder is a little different. I have the same setup re: fuse box next to the battery. However, because I don't have HID's, there are only 2 fuses for my headlights. You should have 4 fuses. 2-15A and 2-20A. Somewhere in there is that #60 fuse that Chuck is referring to.

You can see the fuse box in my picture from my earlier post, just above the battery.

[*]

[CanuckQx4]

For fuse locations, see the FSM, page EL-31. I think you have a blown fuse #60, or an open wire between fuse 60 and relay pins 1&3. It is in the fuse and fusible link box under the hood. Ah, that's in your picture. Is the top of the picture towards the front
of the truck, or the bottom?

The top of the picture is the firewall side, bottom of picture is at the battery.

I'll shower up and see what I can do about locating fuse #60, and Ill just put a new fuse in there and see if I have voltage at it and such

Thanks guys

[Chuck Tribolet]

In your picture, in the top left, there's a row of eight fuses. Fuse 60 is the 15A not the far right of that row, but one to the left.
Swap it with the 15A just to its right in the picture, see if the bug moves.

[CanuckQx4]

Sorry I took a few days to reply, I was sent on a weekend workshop for my job

Anywho, I did the fuse swap like you mentioned, and got no change, still only passenger side worked.

Heres a pic of my actual 8 fuse row, and the ones I swapped in the box

[Chuck Tribolet]

Does the fuse socket look good? Do you have 12V on one side of the fuse socket? Check the wires under the fuse socket.

[CanuckQx4]

The socket looks good, clean metal, tight grab on fuse.

How would you check the wires underneath? Remove the battery, fuse box bolts and if theres any slack lift the whole fuse box to look under it?

I do believe I checked and both those fuse sockets had 12V, but that was some time ago so I'll check again

[Chuck Tribolet]

Is there clearance to inspect underneath with a small mirror?

[CanuckQx4]

Not really there is no gap between my optoma battery and fuse box.

But if I have to take the battery out that isnt a huge deal

[CanuckQx4]

So I just tested for voltage at both of those 15amp fuses. Both have the exact 12.3v on the hot side of the fuse socket

Only difference I noticed was that the fuse socket for the working headlight (passenger) had .6 volts on the non "hot" side of the fuse socket, while the non working headlight socket only showed 86 millevolts

If that matters....

[Buzzman]

Only difference I noticed was that the fuse socket for the working headlight (passenger) had .6 volts on the non "hot" side of the fuse socket, while the non working headlight socket only showed 86 millevolts...
If that matters....

Just for the heck of it, try checking the voltage on the non "hot" side of both fuses, but with the relays pulled out.
They should both be the same at that point.

[Buzzman]

Bump.
Just curious re: where you are at with your problem.
Any progress?

[CanuckQx4]

No I have not fixed it, I still have the patch wire from the passenger side power to the drivers socket, ghetto.

I did not notice someone had replied though, it must have went to my junk box

I would LOVE to figure out what is wrong with this and get that wire removed though!!

Thank you for rememberring me lol

[CanuckQx4]

bump